RDA Delaney Iron Works

[jerryrbeach]

Jeff,


I've been following along at least partly because I have this stone structure.  Nice job with filling the joints at the corners, good tip regarding the roof also.  I have found these are decent kits, especially given the cost if one is willing to upgrade the less well designed parts of the kits.   I'll continue to look in as you progress.

[PRR Modeler]

Great modeling Jeff. Are the shingles from Laser Art (Branchline)?

[Oldguy]

Looking good.  As far as the gaps between the rood cards and the wall - add frieze boards. 

[Mark Dalrymple]

Looks great, Jeff.

I didn't have any problems I can recall putting this one together.  I did kitbash it, and remember the styrene being nice and soft and easy to file and fit.

I had a lot of problems with the plaster Hermanson's mill.

The stonework in the kits is very nice

Cheers, Mark.

[postalkarl]

Hey Jeff:

Looks great. Love how you finished the stone walls.

Karl

[nycjeff]

Jeff,


I've been following along at least partly because I have this stone structure.  Nice job with filling the joints at the corners, good tip regarding the roof also.  I have found these are decent kits, especially given the cost if one is willing to upgrade the less well designed parts of the kits.   I'll continue to look in as you progress.

Hello Jerry, I agree with you on your point that these RDA kits can be made into very nice structures for any layout with a little effort. This was the first time that I tried Postal Karl's method of filling the gaps in the vertical wall joints and although I was satisfied with the result, I feel that the next time will come out a little better.

Great modeling Jeff. Are the shingles from Laser Art (Branchline)?

Hey Curt, thanks for looking in and the paper shingles that I used are from KC's Workshop.

Looking good.  As far as the gaps between the rood cards and the wall - add frieze boards. 

Hello Bob, you are correct that wood frieze boards would fill the gaps, but at the time I was building I didn't have the correct size. I did however have the round styrene rods that fit the space nicely. Thanks for looking in.

Looks great, Jeff.

I didn't have any problems I can recall putting this one together.  I did kitbash it, and remember the styrene being nice and soft and easy to file and fit.

I had a lot of problems with the plaster Hermanson's mill.

The stonework in the kits is very nice

Cheers, Mark.

Hello Mark, you're right the styrene isn't that difficult to work with and the stone detail is very nice and it was what drew me to the kit in the first place.

Hey Jeff:

Looks great. Love how you finished the stone walls.

Karl

Hello Karl, thanks for the compliment and also thank you for the information regarding how to fill in the vertical gaps at the wall edges. I found a post of yours in an old Railroad Lines Forum build thread for this kit. It was easy to do and I hope that the next time I achieve an even better result.

[nycjeff]

Next building in this complex is the brick building.



This is the bag containing the parts for the brick building and the elevated walkway



Here are the sprues for the brick building walls and windows



I painted the walls with rattle can flat red primer and then started with a wash of slate grey and water for the mortar joints. After spreading the wash on the wall surface I used a sponge to blot up the excess wash material



I then dry brushed on some of the same colors that I used for the stone building walls- dark chocolate, cocoa bean and cranberry wine. The brick detail on these walls was too small to attempt painting individual bricks, so I dry brushed small areas with each color. After the dry brushing was done I used my AI solution on the wall panels to tone down the colors.



I sprayed the window castings with rattle can flat grey primer and when dry I sponged on some of the dark chocolate color in an attempt to get a peeling paint look for the windows.



I used the acetate provided with the kit for the window glass and used brown construction paper for the window shades. I then added a few signs and used some weathering chalks for a more realistic looking appearance on the walls. I blocked off the upper door on one of the gable end walls with weathered stripwood. That's it for now, more later

[nycjeff]

Continuing on with the brick building...



After assembling the walls, I installed three pieces of additional bracing across the bottom. The walls went together easily and I did not experience any of the troubles that I read about. All I did was sand the edges smooth on a piece of sandpaper. The walls were all correctly sized to each other and they fit together well



I also placed three pieces of bracing across the top and then glued pieces on each gable end for more glueing surface for the roof cards. In an attempt at extra stability for the roof, I constructed an additional roof truss at the middle of the roof. I used 3/16 square stripwood for all the bracing.



Here is a top view of the roof bracing.



Here is a view of the front and right side of the assembled walls



Here is a view of the rear and the left side. I am pleased with the way the brick walls came out. Next comes the roof for this building.



Here is a picture of my convoluted weigh down set-up for the roof. I realized that I didn't take any pictures of the roof construction. I did not use the kit supplied plastic roof pieces, instead I cut out pieces of cardboard the same size and put roll-roofing on them. I tried to use the method that Jason Jenson uses in his roll-roofing video, which is excellent if you haven't seen it. That's it for now, more later.

[nycjeff]

Continuing on...



The elevated walkway was next- this is a picture of the sprue with the parts. Also in the picture are the cardboard roof pieces for the brick building roof with the edges that will be visible painted with my dark chocolate color.



I sprayed all of the parts with rattle can flat grey primer and then used brushed on craft paints for the colors. You can see the bracing I installed on the end pieces. The other two pieces are the floor and ceiling for what will be the elevated walkway box structure.



The elevated walkway has been glued onto the side of the brick building. You can see that I still need to trim the rafter tails on the main roof. The instructions regarding the elevated walkway are a little vague to put it mildly, so I played around with the location until I was happy with the fit. I had to trim the bottom corner of the walkway arch a little to clear the brick arch over the rear loading door.



Here are the cardboard pieces that I cut out for the walkway roof. Again, I did not use the plastic roof pieces that came with the kit. The two large pieces are copies of the kit supplied plastic pieces- sort of. I had to play around quite a bit to get the roof to look like I wanted it too. The three smaller pieces are support trusses for the roof.



Here are the roof pieces for the walkway glued together. I have already applied the roll-roofing material to the roof cards.



Here is a view of the walkway with the roof glued on. I used some thinner pieces of the rolled-roofing material to fill in the valleys and the ridge. You can also see the 1/16 styrene rod pieces that I painted red and glued to the vertical wall seams. Hopefully these resemble downspouts. As I said before, the instructions regarding the walkway are not yery clear and it is left to the modeler to build it in a way that looks right to him. More in a minute

[nycjeff]

Continuing on...



Here is another view of the walkway roof. Despite my best efforts the valley on this side of the roof had a large gap that required a large piece of valley material to cover it up. Thankfully, this will be on the back side when the structures are placed on my layout.



Here is a top view of the brick building and walkway. I was pleased with the way it all came out. I will do some additional roof castings and weathering later on.



I've added the kit supplied roof sign to the stone building and also added some roof details. By not using the plastic roof pieces that came with the kit and by making my own roof cards and using paper shingles and roll-roofing material, I think that the overall appearance of the kit has been greatly improved. In my readings regarding this kit I saw that it was referred to as a plastic craftsman kit and I agree. Many of the comments that I have received on this build thread have said that RDA kits, with a litttle extra work can become nice additions to anyone's layout and I agree. That's it for now, more later

[Janbouli]

Looking great Jeff, brick walls look especially good.
Maybe you have seen it used by John Siekirk and feel no need for it but I use plastic bags to weigh down roofs and other irregular shapes while drying . Works great and much easier then balancing jars and pieces of wood.

[PRR Modeler]

Great modeling so far.

[nycjeff]

Looking great Jeff, brick walls look especially good.
Maybe you have seen it used by John Siekirk and feel no need for it but I use plastic bags to weigh down roofs and other irregular shapes while drying . Works great and much easier then balancing jars and pieces of wood.

Hello Jan, yes I have seen John's method and every time I end up doing my balancing act with jars and pieces of wood I think about it. I just have to get off my butt and do it. Thanks for the advice.   Jeff

Great modeling so far.

Hey Curt, thanks for looking in and for the kind words. I have had a lot of fun with this RDA kit and I encourage others to try them out. The stone and brick wall details are very good and with a little work they come together very well.

[ReadingBob]

Wow.  Great progress Jeff.  Everything looks really well done.  Keep up the great work.   

[WigWag Workshop]

Excellent coloring on the brick!




-Steven