A Narrow Gauge Icing Facility

[tom.boyd.125]

Larry,
Always like to see a scratch built structure on the Forum.
As Bob mentioned this can be judged to Structure AP points, and this thread you started on your build will count for AP Author points too because it is not a kit.
Will follow along too...
Tommy

[Larry.h]

Pete Smith who built the icing facility featured in the Gazette sent a photo of his structure and permission to post it here. I hope I can do it justice.

[PRR Modeler]

Very interesting using reefer cars to store the ice.

[Larry.h]

I've made much progress on the machinery house. The siding is all done, the roof is built, the roof vent is done, the doors are built, and the matching outhouse is ready for roofing.

The siding is scale 1x6 lumber. It boards were primed with a light grey primer then hand painted using a white craft paint. I use a technique I call scrubbing to apply the paint. I use a stiff short bristle brush and very little paint. Once the paint is on the wood, I scrub until the primer begins to show through.



Applying the siding to the Northwestern Lumber clapboard was done one stick at a time. A thin coat of glue was applied to each clapboard and then the board is set in place.  After the board is placed I use a metal ruler to push down into position and then push it up and secure it into place.





First wall partially done:



First wall is done! Whew!!



The three doors are built. The large door is a slider, the square door hinges up so as not to interfere with the loading mechanism.  The entry door still needs to be painted as soon as I decide on the color.



I built two roof vents. I originally thought to have two vents, but decided one looked better.



The walls are assembled and the roof is built. I colored it with a Prismacolor sienna brown marker so that if there are any gaps, they won't show.



The other side. Once I decide on the height of the boiler stack, I'll straighten it and glue it in position. BTW, the stack is the plastic  handle of a cotton swab.



I built the outhouse as a test for assembly technique.  After building the walls, i used a scale 10x10 to represent the corner trim and another scale 10x10 glued inside to secure the corner. Makes for a very strong structure. It still needs hinges and a door handle of some sort.

[jerryrbeach]

Larry,


First of all, a shout out to Pete on his beautiful modeling and for allowing you to share the photo on the forum.


I have read about modelers using the Northeastern sheets as a "form" for using individual pieces to replicate clapboard siding.  I do not ever remember seeing it done, and have to say I am amazed at how much the extra work improves the look of the siding.  Your modeling is first class and I thank you for sharing it with us.  I will definitely be following this build.

[Larry.h]

Glad to have you aboard, Jerry. Pete did an excellent job on his model and was gracious about giving permission to publish. The plans he published in the Gazette make it easier.

Thanks for the comments regarding the siding. It's the first time I've tried it, but it won't be the last.

[postalkarl]

Hey Curt:

That's looking real nice. Can't wait to see more.

Karl

[Larry.h]

Between all the holiday prep, I've made a little progress. I now have a spray booth in the basement. It's a portable unit from amazon. It seems to work ok.

I shingled the roof of the machinery house. The Builders-In-Scale shingles are quite nice. They are self adhesive and easy to install in rows. The shingles are kept straight by clipping a ruler to the roof with plastic clips.



To keep the rows evenly spaced, I used a piece of stripwood and a 6" ruler to align them.




The finished roof.

[Larry.h]

I built a fixture for making stairs. For the stringers I like the ones from Northeastern Scale Lumber Company. They have an 8" rise and 8" run. https://northeasternscalelumber.com/shop/hostring.html. There are a number of ways to do stairs, here's one.

I started by laying four 3 1/2 inch long scale 1x10s alternating with pieces of the stair stringers on some blue painters tape. By keeping the 1x10s tight against the stringers, they will help hold the stringers upright when you build your stairs.



Next use a square to align a scale 12x12 that you glue across the end of the fixture.



Once the glue has set, you can trim the blue tape to the sides of the fixture. The tape should remain on the bottom of the fixture to hold the stringers in place when you are gluing the treads on



The final step to building the fixture is to attach a guide along the side. Since the guides in the fixture are a scale 10" wide and I want a 2" ovehang, I attached a scale 8x12 vertically along the length of the fixture using double sided tape. This will be used as a stop for the treads so they will perfectly align.



Glue all but the top stair tread to the stringers. The top tread will be added when the staircase is installed. That way the top tread can align perfectly with the landing or floor. After the glue is set, remove the staircase from the fixture by inserting the tips a pair of sharp tweezers under the stringers and gently pry the staircase straight out.

[Keep It Rusty]

Great little jig, Larry. I'll be making one of my own soon enough!

[PRR Modeler]

Great looking progress.

[Larry.h]

Thank you Rusty and Greg. I'd like to see how your jug looks when you build it, Rusty.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Looking really nice, Larry.

Cheers, Mark.

[S&S RR]

Larry


Very nice work. Looks great.

[Keep It Rusty]

Thank you Rusty and Greg. I'd like to see how your jug looks when you build it, Rusty.

Identical to yours. It's a great little design!