Evergreen Hill Designs - Shenandoah Crossing

[Oldguy]

Slowly plodding along.

I did some more detail painting.  For the Coca-Cola chest cooler, I found a nice weathered sign and sized it to the now painted wood piece.  I do all my photo manupulation in Word using their Picture Tools option.

Then on to the front door.  It requires a transom window.  To make it, I found it was easier to cut the acetate and then add the frame on it.  For full disclosure, I made three of these.  Two using 1x4, and the third using the correct 1x2s.

[Oldguy]

After adding the 2x4's to the rear of the false front it was time to put on my big boy pants and tackle the front entrance and it's inset door. 


But first, I need to work on the door between the two buildings.  The templates had slightly different size openings and the Crossing door was framed, as directed, with a 1x4.  But the Emporium side also needs interior framing.  I found that a 1x10 works perfectly and will act as a guide.  I will add framing around the door before both sides are glued together.

Now for the front door.  One has to select where the ends of the main windows will be located and cut through the lower wall sections as needed.  Save these pieces as they will be reused.   Not shown, but a 45 degree groove needs to be made where the "foyer" windows will meet this wall.  I used the show window floors to aid in getting the lower foyer walls set correctly.  It was an easy matter to place them upside down on a flat surface to ensure that they are flat and level.

I didn't like all the narrow glue surfaces (all 1/32"), so I added some 1/8th scrap bracing and made a backside to the window display floor.  These will be painted white tomorrow.

[tom.boyd.125]

Bob,
Have not seen that box in hobby shop for decades. Never knew there was two versions and there is so much going on inside that box.
Will follow along.
Tommy

[Oldguy]

Still slogging away.  I got the front done.  One had to first cut out where the windows go, then add the color card to the back.  Install the larger Emporium window and let dry.  Then cut away the lower section and save.  Slice in a 45 degree slot at the free ends of the large window.  Install the window shelf piece on the inside, using the lower cut off piece for proper placement towards the door.  Let dry.  Add the foyer window with the top edge fitting into the 45 degree slot.  Let the glue set up.  Measure, cut and add the lower foyer wall.  Make sure the door frame fits, sand as needed, glue and let dry.  One winds up with the first photo.

What the instructions don't have is adding some 1/8" bracing in the corner where the shelf and outer wall meet.  I also added another piece of bracing to add a back side to the window shelf.  It's a bit too white.

The Crossing portion has a cardboard formed foundation that is covered in Holgate & Reynolds concrete block.  It needs to be glued to the Crossing, but not a lot of surface to hold.  That and I needed to ensure it being square.  So, flip it over and add 1/8" bracing.  I buy mine in bulk from Fast Tracks.  Then add some square corner scrap.  So not only is it truly square, I have a bunch of decent gluing surface to take abuse my ham hands.

Back to the Crossing floor.  Here the exterior walkway, inside floor and rear loading dock have been joined.  I mainly used 2x12s as directed, but then realized that I needed more bracing between the interior floor and the loading dock, so those got added.  Then it was on to adding some 6x6 beams and posts.  It took me a little while to figure out how long to make those and got them glued on.  Next, I need to add some bracing that the kit does not call for. 


Then intermittently, I worked on the rear dock roof.  It is a simple cardboard form to which 2x4s are added to the underside.  I decided to add three 2x4 cross pieces, then the 2x4 joists.  Once the glue has dried, I give it a shot of leather brown spray primer.  The top surface will be rusted tin.

The next challenge will be adding the Emporium building to the Crossing building and see how close I got to them being the same depth.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Looking good, Bob.

Cheers, Mark.

[PRR Modeler]

Very nice and intricate modeling Bob.

[ACL1504]

Bob,

Getting caught up again. You are really doing a great job on a "not so easy kit". The end result will be well worth the effort I'm sure.

Tom 

[Oldguy]

Bob,

Getting caught up again. You are really doing a great job on a "not so easy kit". The end result will be well worth the effort I'm sure.

Tom 

Thanks Tom.  It continues to whip my butt.

[Oldguy]

With the Emporium attached, it was time to ads some steps between the two as the Emporium is lower.  There is a riser template on a card, actually three of them for two treads.  Once cut out, They needed a bit of sanding to get them even.  Then it was a matter of assembling them.  I found a couple of jigs, as it turns out, these two gave me an almost exact width that was needed.  It was just a matter of sandwiching everything together until the glue dried. 


While that setting up, I moved on to a grain bin.  It is made out of scrap material.  I decided to make it out of scribed siding instead of the called for 2x6s.  The "glass" top was made by gluing a frame onto a piece of acetate.  It is supposed to hold corn, rice, and wheat.  Ah no.  I'll get some colored bits to represent veggies.

Getting close to add the Emporium boardwalk roof.  I calls for two side ends made out of siding material.  There is a big difference between the provided template and the diagram.  I'll make it to the diagram.

Time to start working on more details.  The hardest will be the gas pumps.  There is sufficient clear tubing for the two vertical globes.  It was a simple matter of marking the height, and cutting with a micro-saw.  Well. it became simple once I found that a scrap piece of 1/8" bracing material helped hold the tube in the cutting fixture.

Once sanded smooth, I found that I could use Bondic to get an instant grab.  The light did it's magic through the clear tubing.

[Oldguy]

Now, on to some of the remaining detail parts.   Here is about a quarter of them.

I have already did some bit by bit.  I have several small parts bins to hold these little bits.
I have found that I can use Aleen's Fast Grab on the end of a wood dowel to hold the small parts for painting.  It just takes a small dot.  Once done, slowly peal the part off and the residual glue from the dowel.  The fast grab hasn't soaked into the wood, so it just peels off.  I found some oil signs and reduced them to the appropriate size and glued them on to bulk oil dispensers.  They look a lot better than just plain black.  Normally, the dowels are in a 2x4 that has a bunch of holes drilled into it to hold them while the parts are drying after priming.  They get moved to the machinist blocks while I work on them.

[PRR Modeler]

Everything looks great. Good idea about the dowels.

[Keep It Rusty]

Dayum. Still mightily impressed with the details of this kit.

Excellent work so far

[Oldguy]

Painting small bits can be a royal pain.  Making them are a close second.  Upper left is the beginnings of a sales table.  Below it is a tire rack (upside down) and a coat tree (made up of 6 parts).   To the right are books.  I found and resized some book rack photos which were then cut out and glued to styrene sticks.  Once dry they'll go in the book case along with some bottles.
I found Army Painter paints and do love them.  Great coverage and once one gets past some of the paint names, they expand color choices for details and detail parts.

[MAP]

Great work Bob! 

[madharry]

Looking very nice Bob.
Mike