SRMW - Wrisley Paper

Started by EricQuebec, June 29, 2014, 05:10:19 PM

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postalkarl

Hi Eric:

Lookg good so far.

Karl

ACL1504

Eric,

The walls look great.  ;D ;D

Tom ;D
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

GPdemayo

Great brick work Eric.....I'll be following along.  8)
Gregory P. DeMayo
General Construction Superintendent Emeritus
St. Louis & Denver Railroad
Longwood, FL

EricQuebec

Hello All,
First, thank you for all your comment and interest about this thread. I'm apologize to have not answer soonest, but I was very busy the last month due to a 1:1 project in my kitchen.
It's only in viewing the last update of this project, that I realize that I've make some progress on this kit.
First I've had the sign on the central power, then I've tape reusable tape to mask the top and the bottom of the sign to protect the wall during the weathering process. This technique was suggest by Bob v. Gelder and was very pleasant.

Pictures of final result will be seeing later
Then I've a wonderful idea : why don't cover the window with real glass ????  SO I've make a try with Nr. 2 microscope blade. The glass is cut with an used dentist tool ( my dentist  is very friendly and give me his used tool). The tool is dab in white spirit (or other mineral oil), after what, the cut line is carved in the glass. Then a small push on the glass, andthe glass is straightly cut. It need a little practice to have the skill to do it, and some broken glass too.

I must confess that make window with real glass is more long than cover them with acetate. It's not the time dedcated to cut the glass that is more long, it's the time needed to wash the glass with windex or Fantastik before gluying the galss in place. The final result is simply wonderful, and pay all the efforts needed to achieve it. I let you judging. YOu can see the weathered sign too, as promise.

Then, I've paint the stone on the main mill base. First I've prime the base in two color (oxide red for the brick, and grey for the stone), and I've rework many of the stone with chalk powder and alcool (straight). For that I've used rembrandt chalk (four shade of raw umber :408.3, 408.5, 408.7, 408.10 and two ocher shade 231.3 and 227.3)

then I've brush on the wall a very thinned wash of folkart battleship grey color

ANd finally give a coat of AI solution. YOu can see the difference  on the following picture. On top, final result, and on the bottom, the stone wall just cover with the grey wash.

To be continued



EricQuebec

After what I've redo an other brick work on the base.
Once the base was do, I've brace the wall of the main mill, regarding the template provide in the kit. The walls are "severely braced". The inner side of the wall will be paint in black later.

Next, the wall are cover with a coat of AI solution, and paint with Americana "slate grey" acrylic color.

Then, following the instructions, I'Ve paint randomly some board with grey sky color rather than white, to simulate some new reparation on the clapboard.

And finally realize that make windows with real glass wasn't a so good idea.... the Main Mill have 40 double hung windows and 6 single windows 86 square of glass to cut and wash........ that was very long to do.....

Once the windows are done, I've encounted my 2 first problem with this kit :
First I've constat that the doors in metal casting need to be readjust to fit in place

This problem was solve with a small metal file.
The second problem was the sign. I think a problem was occur during the printing process of the sign. Let me explain. I've begin to glue the sign in place, and during the process to apply it well on the clapboard, the  ink is turned to dust and no longer had any grip on paper, a simple light touch with a pencil, and the ink go off.....
Originally, I would like to make a building  mediumly weatherd... to cover up this disaster, i've must over weathered the sign, that was complicated to, due to the fact that the paint used remove the ink too... finally, on the side, the final result is just acceptable, in front, it was horrible and I'm don't be happy with it. you can see it in the last pictures of the next post.

To be continued



EricQuebec

Then I've glue the friezes in place.  In the instruction, this task must be do after the 4 walls are assembled together, but, I'm not confortable with this technic, so i've decide to do itbefore the assembly. YOu can see on the following picture the disaster on the sign.

The I've paint the many casting needed  in the foru wall. I think it isn't a good idea to mix metal casting and plastic windows, due to the fact that the metal casting are more thick than the plastic windows. So I've used another time the small metal file to thin the metal casting.  The windows casting are primed in earth color, and the wood color is obtain with Golden ocher and Raw umber  powder chalk (rembrabdt brand) and alcool.

Finally, I've glue all the windows and doors in place, following the two large pictures provide in the kit rather than the template card ( I've note several error on this template like a windows that doesn't exist in real, and the draw of each type of castinf dont' correspond with the number of casting of each type provide in the kit.
Here'S the final pics of the walls ready to be assemble... but that's for a next update...

That's all for today, feel free to comment.
Thanks for viewing
To be continued so stay tuned.....
Eric Québec city

NEMMRRC

Your extra efforts are paying off. The model is looking great.


Jaime

EricQuebec

Thank you for your comment Jaime, I much appreciate it

Eric, QUébec city

ReadingBob

This is looking super Eric!   :D   I'm really enjoying your thread.  Thanks so much for sharing your work with us.
Bob Butts
robertbutts1@att.net

There's a fine line between Hobby and Mental Illness.

Zephyrus52246

Very nice work, Eric.  Especially the stone wall.


Jeff

EricQuebec

Thank you very much for your comment Bob and Jeff.
Jeff, the idea behind the stone work went from a mixing technique between an experience of Bob with his Fox run milling CO kit, and the technique explain with Brette galant about staining wood with chalk and alcool.
I've decide to try  to developping my skill with this technic and this kind of material that I've found very interesting.
Eric Québec city

S&S RR

Quote from: EricQuebec on September 29, 2014, 05:44:44 PM
Thank you very much for your comment Bob and Jeff.
Jeff, the idea behind the stone work went from a mixing technique between an experience of Bob with his Fox run milling CO kit, and the technique explain with Brette galant about staining wood with chalk and alcool.
I've decide to try  to developping my skill with this technic and this kind of material that I've found very interesting.
Eric Québec city

Eric

Great thread! I'm following along and taking notes - thanks for sharing.
John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

Mark Dalrymple

Looking really good, Eric.

I always look forward to your updates.

Cheers, Mark.

EricQuebec

Thank for your comment John and Mark, it's very appreciate.

Eric Québec city

MAP

I've always liked this kit, and you're doing an outstanding job on the build Eric.  Keep those progress photos coming.
Mark

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