Fountain Brewery kitbash #2 - 2021 winter build challenge

[Mark Dalrymple]

Hi guys.

Just a couple of pictures of where I've got to.

First up is a picture of the masking tape I use for valley flashings.  You can see I have started peeling off the 1mm strips between the flashings.  I then paint the tape grey (shown in the top of the photo of the Copic markers).  I attach my flashings to the sub roof before the shingle roof planes, not after.  In this way any rain that falls in Tellynott flows down the tiles, into the valley flashings (which have little kick backs at their edges to retain the water) and down the valleys.  I see a lot of model roofs about that would leak.  I often do a google search of such things as flashings to see what is the most common way of doing things.  Following the prototype never hurts!

Next are two photos of the roof with the last lot of slate tiles added.  I still need to flash the cupola, which is just sitting in position.  The stack was also primed yesterday.  You can also see the double sided tape has been added to the service shop roof and the black card glued to the roof.  Next will be adding corrugated iron and adding the small roof above the loading dock.

More soon, cheers, Mark.

[PRR Modeler]

Beautiful looking roof.

[PRR Modeler]

Beautiful looking roof.

[ACL1504]

Mark, Cheers,

Love the roof and all the different angles.

Tom 

[Oldguy]

Very well done!

[postalkarl]

Hey Mark :

Roof looks just great.

Karl

[GPdemayo]

Excellent job on the roof Mark.....

You are correct about the valley flashing. Generally all roofing, if installed correctly, will utilize a metal valley and hard roofing (slate, cement, cedar, etc.) is no exception. It is common practice, over here, to install the dry-in felt sheet over the roof sheathing and overlap the valleys at least 18". The metal is placed in the valley at least 12" on other side of the valley centerline, kind of like a shallow "V". The roofing is then installed over the metal holding off 4" to 6" off the centerline - called an open valley application. See example below.

[Jerry]

A fine job your doing on this one Mark.


Jerry

[Mark Dalrymple]

Beautiful looking roof.

Thanks very much, Curt.

I'm pleased you like it.

Cheers, Mark.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Love the roof and all the different angles.

Thanks very much, Tom.

I think the roof is extra important in a model.  I always enjoy walking around hilly suburbs to see how things really look up there.  There are so many commercial and industrial roofs that look flat from the ground, but when you look down on them they actually have gable or hip roofs with internal gutters.  Their parapet walls often hide this from the street.

Cheers, Mark.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Very well done!

Thanks, Bob.

Its been fun working on this roof.  I think it works well cutting the material for the hips and ridges that comes with the Northeastern Scale Lumber slate tile roofs narrower.  I think they would be overly wide if done as they are.

Cheers, Mark.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Roof looks just great.

Thanks, Karl.

I should have photographs of the corrugated iron roof soon.

Cheers, Mark.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Excellent job on the roof Mark

You are correct about the valley flashing. Generally all roofing, if installed correctly, will utilize a metal valley and hard roofing (slate, cement, cedar, etc.) is no exception. It is common practice, over here, to install the dry-in felt sheet over the roof sheathing and overlap the valleys at least 18". The metal is placed in the valley at least 12" on other side of the valley centerline, kind of like a shallow "V". The roofing is then installed over the metal holding off 4" to 6" off the centerline - called an open valley application.

Thanks very much, Gregory.

Thanks for the extra information and the photo.  I really like the red valley flashing - it really pops.  I have also seen tile roofs where the tiles actually meet at the valley.  I assume there must still be a valley flashing underneath.  All the prototype photos I found of this I thought looked most untidy.  I did my valleys the same as your photo.

Cheers, Mark.

[Mark Dalrymple]

A fine job your doing on this one Mark.

Thank you, Jerry.

Just the roof of the shop front to go.

Cheers, Mark.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Hi guys.

Well the corrugated iron roof is on.

I cut my Campbell corrugated iron sheets in half and then taped them to my cutting board.  I ran a piece of painters tape along the two short edges and marked these with purlin spacings (3' centers) and one just up from the bottom.  I then hold my steel ruler in line with the purlin spacings and run my compass along the ribs, putting and indentation every second indentation.  I do this more by feel than watching.  I try not to press too hard and pierce the iron.  I vary the height of each new length slightly by taping it so it is a bit further down or up than the last one.  By doing this I can line all the lead headed nails up, and have variations in lengths of iron for that slightly random look.  The sheets are then flipped so that the indentations resemble lead headed nails and then the sheet is cut into widths.  I did mine just under 3'.  I glued my black card roof piece to the structure and then cut and attached strips of double sided tape.  I make sure the top piece goes across the ridge.  I then peel off the tape backing and start attaching the iron, overhanging the card slightly.  Always start at the bottom!  I pick my pieces to get variation in length of iron.  The short top pieces were cut (while still strips) so that when attached the top of each sheet will be down slightly from the ridge.  I attached these short pieces, using CA to hold as needed.  I apply this by putting a drop of CA on some painters tape and then using my knife to run it under the iron.

Next was to make up the ridge capping.  I smoothed out a piece of aluminum foil and attached a piece of double sided tape to it.  This was cut into a strip approximately 6mm in width.  I peeled off the backing of the tape and attached it too my cutting board sticky side up using painters tape.  I cut a piece of styrene rod the same length as the roof and then carefully laid this down the center of the foil/ double sided tape.  I cut off the ends of the foil a couple of mm's back from the end of the rod and also cut square corners off.  I use a finger and thumb to meld the foil over the rod a ways and then carefully lay it down the ridge.  The rod will stick the the double sided tape on the roof.  The foil is then melded into the the undulations of the iron using a tooth pick, and the ends folded over the edge.

I primed with dullcote, and then painted gun metal grey.  I dry brushed with unbleached titanium white to make the lead headed nails pop, and then added rust pigments with a fine brush.

More soon, cheers, Mark