KC's Workshop, Grumpy's Cafe - 2021 Build Challenge.

[ACL1504]

Good to see that you're getting started.

Curt,

Yepper, I had to finish the church and tug boat. To many projects going at a time.

Tom 

[ACL1504]

Hi Tom.....Pegi just looked over my shoulder as I was checking out your progress and saw the name....."how nice, Tom named a building after you" said herself.

Ain't love grand.....

Greg,

To late! Tell Pegi that I've already "named it and claimed it". 

Tom 

[ACL1504]

Hey Tom looking forward to this new build of yours.  Sounds interesting to say the least!


Jerry

Jerry,

Thanks for stopping by. I'm ready to get this one going.

Tom 

[ACL1504]

Okay, now that's A+++ customer service when the manufacturer notices you're missing a piece based on your build thread and sends it to you.   

Looks like a great little kit that will fit in just fine on the A&S.  I'm glad to see you'll have a business named in honor of Greg.   

Bob,

Yes, Kenny was on the spot for sure. Not Greg, ME! He is Mr. Speedy, I'm the Grumpy one.

Tom 

[ACL1504]

Hey Tom:

Can't wait to see what you do with this one.

Karl

Karl,

Thanks, I'm thinking this will be a fun build.

Tom 

[ACL1504]

Looks interesting, Tom.

Splicing weatherboard invisibly is pretty easy - Campbell kits do it all the time.  Just splice at the lap.

I think if rolled roofing is installed correctly you should get a long life out of it without leaking.  I know my old neighbour was one of the architects involved in the design of our town hall and they did a roof check 40 years after installation and found the roof to be still like new.  Here in NZ we call it butynol - I assume that's the same stuff. 

However - its always nice to make a change.

Cheers, Mark.

Mark,

We have plenty of flat roof structures here in Florida. All the flat roofs I've been on have been gravel over tar. Maybe it's just me but a flat rolled roofing doesn't look right. Cheers.

Tom 

[ACL1504]

I think you'll find that butynol is a roofing membrane product that is glued to form a complete seal.  In the US, rolled roofing normally refers to just that.  It may be hot tarred or seam heated to get them to adhere to the adjoining piece.  There was a time when it was thought that buildings could be kept cooler in the summer months, if water could be ponded on the roof and let evaporate.  But it required a impermeable roof covering system to do so.  Hence membranes.   The down side is that some systems could be peeled off during extremely high winds.

Bob,

During my LEO days, I've been on my share of roofs. Some had standing water that wasn't draining.  Usually these roofs had small bushes or even the start of small trees growing out of the water with the roots reaching through the gravel, tar and down into the sub roof. Standing water on a roof in the South is a NO-NO!

Appreciate the info.

Tom 

[Mark Dalrymple]

Usually these roofs had small bushes or even the start of small trees growing out of the water with the roots reaching through the gravel, tar and down into the sub roof. Standing water on a roof in the South is a NO-NO!

...but the modeling potential...

Cheers, Mark.

[ACL1504]

Cheers Mark,

Yes, it would be interesting for sure.

Tom 

[ACL1504]

I came up with another option for the upper wall additions. I decided to use a piece of strip wood 1/16 " X 1". It was cut to fit and edge glued to the top of the two side and rear walls.



I used a metal square to ensure my cut was flush to the wall edge.



I'm not concerned about any gap between the top of the wall and the strip wood. It will be covered with a trim board which I'll cover later in the build.

More in a few.

[ACL1504]

I also plan to have an out side stair case leading to the second floor.



I positioned the door where I wanted it. I then turned the wall over and positioned it as shown below. This was so I could cut the door opening from the rear.



Continued -

[ACL1504]

In one of my other build threads I mentioned I have several door and window plugs I've either cut or saved from other kits.

I marked the location of the door and placed the plug over my mark. I used the metal square again to ensure the plug was aligned properly.



I then traced the door plug. The extended lines are to let me know where to start and finish the cut. When I use a ruler to cut on line, I can't tell where the other lines are. So, the extended lines give the the correct reference.



Continued -

[ACL1504]

The opening was cut. I used an Emory board to clean up the corners. The door on the second floor now has an opening.



Not shown here but I then added nail holes as Reaading Bob said, "Cuz I like them."  I don't add nail holes to all my kit bashes or scratch builds but I do like the look when weathered.

I used a large sanding board to clean up the kerfs on the wall edges. The laser cuts at a very slight angle and I sand the wall edges smooth to ensure a clean and tight fit on the corner trim.



Done for now.

[ACL1504]

As I mentioned in an earlier post, I wanted this roof to slope from front to rear. I made a pencil mark two HO scale inches from the top of the front of the side walls. I drew a line from there to the rear.

I then added the interior wall bracing and cut them at the angle of the pencil line.







More in a few.

[ACL1504]

Horizontal bracing was then added as shown below.



Since the roof card for the un-kit bashed kit was larger than the exterior dimensions of the four walls, I measured and cut a small piece off the side.



Continued -