2021 Build challenge. Act III

[Zephyrus52246]

I was undecided what to do next after the two small projects.  I have a brass caboose I'd like to paint, something I've never tried before, but I needed to order some paint/decals for it and who knows when they'll get here, so that was out.  I thought a resin boxcar kit would be doable, as it would be the same color as the caboose, but after looking at the parts and instructions, it went back in the box for now.  My present layout "plan" is to finish the scenery in the rocks area (on the right in the first photo), and extend that to the left.  I'd also like to go from the "west" end of the layout (staging yard in the photos) and go east.  This leads to the end of the peninsula.  The overall plan here is for a "Bernina drop" meaning the curve would be covered with backdrop so you can't look down the edge and see both sides at the same time.  I'd envisioned a small farm on this side of the peninsula (where the aforementioned boxcar kits are still stacked)  , placed on a hill to block the vision of the curve from the other side.  I now think the farm would be too small, even for a barn and house, set on a hill.  I need to extend the road which will follow the curve of the track and disappear around the hill.  So another small business would fit here.  I'm going to build FOS' Bernard Tractor Repair and see how it fits here. 


Jeff

[PRR Modeler]

Beautiful scene on the left.

[Zephyrus52246]

Thanks, Curt. 

Here's the box contents.  The usual suspects.  No precut window glass,  , but I'll survive.  It's a central building with 3 additions.  One is board on board, built on cardboard walls.  One is corrugated metal, and the box has the "paper" kind, which I prefer to the shiny aluminum, as there's no irritating shiny spots that pop up when you think it's all painted.

Jeff

[Zephyrus52246]

Started with squaring the edges of the walls on my True Sander.  The base is getting some small grooves in it, may be time to buy a new one. 


Jeff

[Zephyrus52246]

I then added the nailholes with my nail tool.  Cut in the board edges, lifted some boards, etc.  This is easier when they are not yet braced.  I then braced each wall as it was finished, per the instructions.  I know I'll goof up at least one, which will need to be removed later. 

Jeff

[Zephyrus52246]

Next they went into the spray booth to get their back sides sprayed with flat black spray paint.  This is to (hopefully) prevent warping when the stains/paints are applied.  Also blocks internal lighting from seeping out, though I don't light the structures.  Even though I usually put a black view block inside the buildings, so you can't look thru them, this helps so the inside wood doesn't show thru the windows as well.  Next up was staining with light grey stain.  This took 4 coats, with letting it dry in between to get it to the grey I wanted.  It looks greyer in the picture than in person.

Jeff

[Zephyrus52246]

While waiting for the drying times, I cleaned up the metal detail parts.  Some were pretty easy, some (especially the curved vent ducting) required a lot of work.  They went into a Dawn/water bath and dried.  They will be sprayed or etched with blackening agent depending on the part.  Next up was color choices, Doug's colors on his kit are white and dark green.  These are the same colors as the building next to it on the layout, so that was out.  I chose an off white for the walls.  This was applied as a wash.  Notice the tape pieces.  These areas are covered by other parts of the building and don't need painting/detailing. Next I'll sponge paint on some light grey and sandstone lightly to make it have the peeling paint effect.  I'm going to use a red tone, probably boxcar red, for the trim.  The plastic windows have been removed from their carrier sheets, along with some Tichy barrels, nubs sanded and they are now drying from their washing.  I think I'll airbrush the windows later when they've dried.


Jeff

[deemery]

I put some vinegar in my 'casting bath', the acid adds a bit of etching to help the paint stick.   Glad to see you're making full use of planned and unplanned time off!

One of Doug's kits had instructions for using a sponge to get peeling paint.  You first paint the primary color.  Then you put 'weathered wood' color on a kitchen sponge, remove most of the paint, and carefully dry-brush/lay the sponge down on the tips of the siding.  Worked great when I tried it.

dave

[Zephyrus52246]

Thanks for checking in, Dave.  Your sponge painting description is my plan for this one.  The peeling paint would be on the edges of the boards first.  Sponge painting the primary color puts the color on the edges. 


Jeff

[ReadingBob]

Act III?  Gee, I'm still on Act I.   

Nice choice for a build!     Looks like you're off to a great start Jeff.   

[GPdemayo]

What Bob said, except my Act I is from last year.....   I'll be looking in on this one Jeff.

[postalkarl]

HJey Jeff:

the walls are looking good. Can't wait for more.

Karl

[Zephyrus52246]

All the stripwood was stained with the same grey stain.  I was too lazy to stain each piece individually, fortunately they fit in this tray.  I thought about building a PVC pipe stain container like Bob B.'s, but I don't have all the parts.  I used the one end cap I had on the sump pump issue last fall.    Then the pieces were put out to dry.  Next I'll have to figure out which ones get stained red and which don't. 


Jeff

[Zephyrus52246]

The plastic parts were airbrushed with Tru Color paint.  This is SP freight car red, left over from a kit I built a year or two ago. 

Jeff

[postalkarl]

Hey Jeff:

Looks good keep the pics flowing. Can't wait to see more.

Karl