Scratch Built Rock Crusher Building

Started by Bernd, February 20, 2021, 02:38:43 PM

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Bernd

Quote from: GPdemayo on March 21, 2021, 10:35:34 AM
Looks likes the hobby is heading into a whole new dimension.....this just keeps getting more interesting by the post.....well done Bernd.  8)

Hey Gregory. Like I said, about four years ago I had a different opinion on 3D printing. To me it's a tool that will help with things that are hard to fabricate by hand. I've searched for ways of making an auger for years. I used my lathe to make the one I use now, but am not satisfied with how it came out. There is no way of increasing the pitch of the auger using the lathe. The next method was using an auger drill and making a resin casting. So I bought a $43 auger drill with intentions of making a casting. Well that didn't get to far. Now I have a way of making something that I can fine tune. It also allows me to change the size if needed. I look at this new tech as a better way to make the small parts that will enhance our models instead of wishing and hopping that some one will produce one for the market. I wasn't sure if I should post this here since much of the forum is into structure kit building and scratch building structures. I think to many people getting into modeling want be able to print out a whole building or piece of rolling stock in one sitting. I look at it more like being able to turn out small detail parts that will enhance the structure kit or scratch build item.

And thanks for the "well done" comment. Much appreciated. More to come. Still learning.

Bernd
New York, Vermont & Northern Rwy. - Route of the Black Diamonds

Bernd

I had a fourth video I wanted to mention but couldn't find the link, plus U-Tube didn't want to play nice. I finally got on and found the link. It's close to 10 minuets long. I learned more on making an auger from this guy than any of the others. He also did it a different way from Kevin Kennedy. Kevin used a round coil where as this guy used a square coil. So it goes to show there is more than one way to do a 3D drawing. Here's the link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sWSZUNfsyzs

Hey Craig, I ordered a bottle of  Translucent Green. So perhaps by next weekend I might have the first print off the Photon.

Bernd
New York, Vermont & Northern Rwy. - Route of the Black Diamonds

nycjeff

Hello Bernd, just wanted to say I am blown away by the work involved in your stone walls. Outstanding modeling.   Jeff
Jeff Firestone
Morristown, Arizona
modeling the New York Central in rural Ohio in the late 1940's

Keep It Rusty

Great news, Bernd!

Don't forget to configure Chitubox's print settings for the Translucent Green (and can be found on that spreadsheet I sent you)

Bernd

Quote from: nycjeff on March 21, 2021, 04:01:07 PM
Hello Bernd, just wanted to say I am blown away by the work involved in your stone walls. Outstanding modeling.   Jeff

Thank you Jeff. Now all I need to do is get back to work on it.

Bernd
New York, Vermont & Northern Rwy. - Route of the Black Diamonds

Bernd

Quote from: Keep it Rusty on March 21, 2021, 04:02:02 PM
Great news, Bernd!

Don't forget to configure Chitubox's print settings for the Translucent Green (and can be found on that spreadsheet I sent you)

I was getting burned out watching all those video's, but it was worth it.

I ordered a bottle from your source, translucent green. The first step will be to get everything set on the printer and print out the cube that comes with the software for the printer. I've been going through all the menus on Chitubox. Am playing around with the slicer to see how that works. Once I think I have it all figured out I'll give the auger a try.

Thanks for all the help so far.

Bernd
New York, Vermont & Northern Rwy. - Route of the Black Diamonds

postalkarl

he Bernd:

You are quite welcome. If you need A rest you need A rest.

Karl

GPdemayo

Hi Bernd.....this is exactly the right place to post this. This forum has people from all different backgrounds and that really contributes to helping all of us with areas of the hobby that are out of our comfort zone.

Keep doing exactly what you are doing.....sharing new and exciting aspects of the hobby that some of us are not as familiar with as you have demonstrated. Thanks for the thread and keep it coming.  8)
Gregory P. DeMayo
General Construction Superintendent Emeritus
St. Louis & Denver Railroad
Longwood, FL

Bernd

Thanks guys. Gives me great inspiration form you kind words. Makes it all worth while.

I've got quite a number of projects lined up.

Bernd
New York, Vermont & Northern Rwy. - Route of the Black Diamonds

Pennman

Hello Bernd,

This project is very enlightening and you seem to grasp all aspects of the unknown (3D printing) with ease.
Congratulations for "stepping out" of the normal way of modeling, but I am "old school" when I model. My
use of an exacto knife and straight edge, whether it is wood or plaster, is as far out as I will go....and cheap too !
I honestly believe you will find your niche and when you do, you will overwhelmed with orders for parts ...  ::) ::) ::)
Keep at it, your rock crusher will be the focal point of your layout..

Rich



Bernd

Hey Rich,

Thanks for the kind words.

I'd love to see you make an auger with a straight edge and exacto knife. If you can show me how it's done I'll give away my 3D printer.  ;D

I know who'll be my first customer.  ;)

Bernd
New York, Vermont & Northern Rwy. - Route of the Black Diamonds

Bernd

Time to bring this project up to date.

I've taken note of a material used both on this forum and the other forum of you guys using a product called "chipboard". I thought at first it was wood. Once I got straighten out on what it was I ordered some from Blick Art Supplies.



Next I made two inserts for the ceiling/roof of the first floor. I was going to use floor laminate but decided to use gator board. The first part is the ceiling that fit's inside. The second part sits on top and just cuts off at the blocks.







The end and side walls.



Next is an experiment in laminating wood to the chipboard. I've notice many of you guys using chipboard to rough in your building sizes and then covering the outside with individual boards or complete sheets of milled lumber. I have also noticed that at times there are complaints of warping do to the water based glue even when bracing is used on the inside of the building. In a project of one of the modelers I notice the use of an adhesive backed paper to form a laminated part. I asked what he used. The product is called 3M 465 Adhesive Transfer Tape and comes in many different sizes. I got a roll of the widest tape they had - 12 in. x 15 ft. High Tack Splicing Tape Roll with Easy Liner Release. Here's the link to Amazons page:

https://www.amazon.com/3M-465-Adhesive-Transfer-Tape/dp/B00JR0CHIC/ref=pd_nav_hcs_rp_1?pd_rd_w=kKLQ0&pf_rd_p=0381b3ca-ac9b-49b9-ba63-35fd0815ad67&pf_rd_r=PD366MMDKJE6AARMC7FE&pd_rd_r=fb1d1d7c-7761-45d1-b4ea-138107191750&pd_rd_wg=lhBB5&pd_rd_i=B00JR0CHIC&psc=1

So here's the line up. One wall side with 3 pieces of board and batten siding, one chipboard inner wall and the adhesive paper.



I peeled the paper off one side and applied it to the chipboard using a piece of pipe to get it to adhere to the chipboard.

[imghttp://www.kingstonemodelworks.com/HOn30QRR/crusher-36.JPG[/img

Then I used a knife to cut around the chipboard.



I noticed a large portion with no adhesive on it. You still get 12" wide adhesive. I guess they left a little bit so you can grab it to pull off the paper backing.



Then once you've got one side stuck to the chipboard you try to get hold of a piece of the backing to pull it off which will then leave you with the adhesive stuck to the chipboard.



Next comes the fun part. Trying to get the wood perfectly lined up with the chipboard. I used a 1-2-3 block to help line it up.



Adding the second section.



And the very last section.



And finished. I used that same pipe to roll the on the back of the chipboard to get a good seal between the wood and chipboard. After over several weeks it showed no warping what so ever. I think I've found a better way to laminate large sections of milled wood to a backing and not get any warping.

I still needed to cut out some opening where it looks like they had some wooded openings enclosed with a door or some kind of shutter. I drew the wall up in a 2D CAD program printer it out and taped it to the wall and then cut out the openings.





I still have the one end wall to do.

I had a disctraction arrive today. I finally got my bottle of resin so I'm off to play with the 3D printer for the next couple of days to see if I can make it print.

I'll post those results in this thread later.

Until then.

Bernd
New York, Vermont & Northern Rwy. - Route of the Black Diamonds

chris.mincemoyer

Brilliant idea with the chipboard and whatever you use to laminate, either wood or styrene.

nycjeff

Hello Bernd, I'm following your build with great interest. I like your idea of using the chipboard for bracing instead of strip-wood. One question though, does the added thickness make it harder to cut out the door and window openings ?   Jeff
Jeff Firestone
Morristown, Arizona
modeling the New York Central in rural Ohio in the late 1940's

Bernd

Quote from: chris.mincemoyer on March 28, 2021, 10:22:09 AM
Brilliant idea with the chipboard and whatever you use to laminate, either wood or styrene.

Thank you Chris. I think it's the same type used on those laser cut windows. The stuff seems to stick pretty good. So far there has been no warping.

Bernd
New York, Vermont & Northern Rwy. - Route of the Black Diamonds

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