Jon H Olson Chemical Co DBA Skeeter's Fly Dope

[Jim Donovan]

All that work instead of simply using Tichy windows was to enable me to set the windows both open and closed. When done here is the result:



That's it for now.

[Jim Donovan]

With the installation of the windows I decided to build the various loading docks, decks and equipment that is part of the the main building. The plans have detailed drawings showing the wood sizes to be used and the method to construct the parts such as the Pulley hoist with roof overhang on the elevator tower. Moreover the directions explain what stains and paints to use and in what order things are to be done. However the paints and stains are no longer available so I used my own ideas. For the docks and bumpers I used Hunterline Driftwood Stain. The strip wood was soaked in a tray of the stain for about 10 seconds then set on a paper towel to dry. A copy of the original scale drawing for each deck was placed under a piece of parchment paper with both taped to the work mat. The parchment paper is translucent so the details of the scale drawing are easily seen. Then it was just a matter of cutting the correct size strip wood as needed and gluing it in place using Canopy glue exactly over the drawing to the part it connects with. The following photo shows the L shape deck for the Office and the loading dock for the backside of structure next to where the chemical tanks will go. The steel weight was used to keep the parts in their place while the glue dried. The decks are 1 x 10 top boards, Joists are 2 x 6 and the base is 8 x 8.

[Jim Donovan]

For the second floor staircase I used the same materials and stain as with the decks except for the stringers.. These I made using the Silhouette Cameo 3 cutter. The stringers were designed by first importing a .jpeg copy of the diagram drawing into the Silhouette design program using the scanning function on a inkjet printer. If you do this make sure the imported .jpeg is sized correctly (8.5 x 11 inches). Once in the design program I made the .jpeg image transparent so the design grid of the program is seen. Finally I make this Layer 2. This keeps the drawing where you want it but since it won't be the top layer (layer 1) it won't interfere as you manipulate the lines drawn over it. Using the line function, the staircase stringers are copied and the file saved. Layer 1 is sent to the Cameo 3 and cut exactly to shape. I use 8.5 x 11 photo paper (64 pound stock) for the stringer material instead of wood as it allows much closer cuts. 8 stringers are cut out. Taking two they are glued together using Canopy Glue and allowed to dry completely with a weight to hold the stringer flat and ensure a tight bond. The same is done for the other pairs of stringers. Once completely dry Driftwood Stain is lightly brushed onto the completed stringers.  To construct the sections of the staircase I made a jig the correct length and width for the stringers to rest in allowing the steps to be glued in place and dry. Here you see the staircase completed except for the railing. After this photo was taken the railing was installed and the landing platforms touched up with the Hunterline stain to match the stringer color. 

[Jim Donovan]

In addition to utilizing the two print/ cutters I am using the Photon S printer I was given at Christmas. This resin printer will operate to .1mm thick per layer to produce amazing detailed castings. Here it has just finished making some chairs, they are upside down attached to the moving platen. From here they will be put in an alcohol bath, washed and cured using UV light. Finally painted. It makes details I would not be able to add otherwise..

[Jim Donovan]

The L braces on the elevator doors were 3D printed. The original file was a full size L brace re-sized to HO scale. I don't think you can see them but it printed out the brace including the holes for the bolts. The lower deck bumpers were donut shapes cut using the Cameo 3 with Tichy Bolts inserted. These will be weathered later.

[Jim Donovan]

There are a lot of outside goose lights on the original Skeeter's though they did not light. With LED lights now available I am lighting the gooseneck outside lights as well as lighting some of the interior. I am playing around with possible interior details which you might see in some of the following photos but not sure if I will go with it.

[Jim Donovan]

Lastly I added the Skeeter sign on the elevator tower. The cork on the right will be the frame for the water tower.  So we are caught up with where I am at this point. Much more to do.

[GPdemayo]

Looking good Jim.....the detail you get with that 3D printer is amazing. 

[Jim Donovan]

Thanks Greg;

Sorry so long responding. I have never worked on a building so much and made so little progress. I swear I have done each part at least twice. Sometimes it is finding a better way that results in a better look, other times it is simply because I did not know what I was doing.

In any event I have continued on the project and finally have enough to share.  Anyone with ideas on how it could be improved or done another way please jump in.

[Jim Donovan]

I left off starting work on the water tower.  It is a good example of my two steps forward, one step backward approach to building this structure. My first attempt consisted of making a paper cone for the roof and covering the cork stopper I was using as the tank base with board on board 2 x 4 stripwood.


Not how it was completed. Paper cone proved too flimsy and cork diameter too small. Instead I designed and printed out a 3D resin top and a 3D resin base. I then glued the stained stripwood (Hunter Line Medium Brown stain) to the base and for the top I used Campbell shingles previously painted using Cermacoat Sky Gray and Cable Gray using the sponge dabbing method to get a weathered wood shingle look. Finally, a dusting of green pastel powder was brushed on to create a mold effect caused by the evaporating water.


A small water hatch was made and installed along with a wood ladder to hatch. Finally a 3D printed lighting rod modeled after the original in the plans was painted natural steel on the rod and flat red on its base.

[Jim Donovan]

To create the steel wire bands used to hold the water tanks together I decided to try something different. I noted in the photo's of the eBay model I am using as reference many of the bands had separated, I assume it is from the glue releasing with age. To counter this I decided to use Heavy EZ Line (brown), which is a elastic multifiber line used primarily to replicate telephone wire. I determined the cork top I had not used for the water tank would work great as a mold to wrap the line around when making a knot.


To complete the  band I used Tichy (and then my own designed 3D printed) Turnbuckles. The line was placed through the two eyes of the turnbuckle a knot made, excess trimmed and knot was now inside the turnbuckle. Overall I was very pleased with the result, the bands are able to stay where I wanted on the tank. I sprayed a mixture of 1 part Mod Podge to 4 parts water on each tank to lock the bands in place so they do not move is accidentally. So here is result:



But wait, there is more.

[Jim Donovan]

Did you know that the wire bands on water tanks are single wire coils? Moreover, turnbuckles are NOT used to attach and tighten the coil to the tank. Instead there is a special fitting used for this purpose. Well I know now as a couple of much better modelers than myself pointed out when I showed them my process. Still I like the look the EZ line provides over single strand wire as well as its ability to be fashioned in a loop so no glue is needed to keep it in shape on the tank. So I am going to chalk that up to 'artistic license'. As for the turnbuckles, I filled in the neat looking openings so they appear solid and called it a day. So here is an example of the completed turnbuckle/ coil band prior to it being filled in, never to be seen again:





More a little while, need to mow the grass.

[Jim Donovan]

The chemical tank farm is what makes this structure unique. I used the Photon S 3D resin printer to produce parts that really add detail.  Some parts started as files downloaded from Thingiverse.com. Others I learned how to make using an free online CAD program called Tinkercad. There is definitely a learning curve involved with the 3D resin printer and the CAD program. I must have spent the better part of two weeks to get all the parts correct. I am just a beginner on using these machines, still I was able to make what I wanted. As we all like photos here is the stages of the construction.


The tank farm was made with a copy of the template glued to a sheet of micro plywood. The wood was glued to the floor. Modge Podge was painted over all and in a second layer the outer walls were stippled so as to produce a more 'concrete' look. When done it was painted using concrete gray

[Keep It Rusty]

LOVELY work, Jim. Love seeing another 3D printer at work around these parts, too!

I'll be checking back in regularly.

[Jim Donovan]

Thanks Rusty, it is fun trying new things. It sure has been a learning experience.


The two large tanks were made using a cardboard tube that was the correct diameter. The other three were made using the 3D printer since I could not find any tubes the right diameter. Stained stripwood was glued to the sides and top.


Using the shown templates tank support frames were made and placed as indicated.


The plumbing supports were placed and 'metal' cradles were 3D designed, printed and painted.