The Atlantic and Southern Build Thread Continued, Part 4

[ACL1504]

Great how to Tom. I think I'm going to give it a try.

Butty Curt,

Thanks very much and good for you. If you get stuck, let me know and we will "get er done".

Tom

[ACL1504]

Tom, the symbol above the word "ohm" in your sketch:  Is that an (incandescent) light bulb?

dave

Dave,

Yes, in this case it is a 12 volt incandescent from Miniatronics.

Here's a photo of a few I have on hand.

Tom

[Jerry]

Wow enough lights for everyone!!! 

Jerry

[ACL1504]

Wow enough lights for everyone!!! 

Jerry

Jerry,

Yes, let me know if you need any.

Tom 

[ACL1504]

Reference the 12 volt bulb for the interior lighting, you could also use an LED with the current limiter or with the appropriate resistor.

[tct855]

ACL1504~,
        Awesome job as always on your model skills big brother. If I wore a hat, it be a tipping to you handsome.
                                                                              Thanx Thom...

[jbvb]

For the caboose marker lights, I'm using Tomar Lighted Adlake Marker Lights. They come two in a pack with two resistors and one bridge rectifier. There is also a small coil of wire. The wire is to stiff so I just put the wire in file 13.




NOTE: If you are using DCC, don't use the bridge rectifier. The track power on a DCC system is AC power and a non DCC, or DC layout is DC power. I just put the rectifier in the electronics part bin.

Installing the diode bridge Tomar provides serves two purposes: On a DC layout, it allows the LED markers to stay lit whether the train is moving forward or backward.  On a DCC layout it keeps the LED markers from flickering (as much). It would take a shutter speed of at least 1/250 sec. to catch one when it was dark due to reverse polarity, but it's possible.

[ACL1504]

For the caboose marker lights, I'm using Tomar Lighted Adlake Marker Lights. They come two in a pack with two resistors and one bridge rectifier. There is also a small coil of wire. The wire is to stiff so I just put the wire in file 13.




NOTE: If you are using DCC, don't use the bridge rectifier. The track power on a DCC system is AC power and a non DCC, or DC layout is DC power. I just put the rectifier in the electronics part bin.

Installing the diode bridge Tomar provides serves two purposes: On a DC layout, it allows the LED markers to stay lit whether the train is moving forward or backward.  On a DCC layout it keeps the LED markers from flickering (as much). It would take a shutter speed of at least 1/250 sec. to catch one when it was dark due to reverse polarity, but it's possible.

James,

Yes, that is correct. Other inquiring minds will find this helpful.

Tom

[ACL1504]

When I started to install the Kadee trucks, I found the Kadee screws didn't fit the brass bolsters.

I listed the following photo on the previous page. The two silver screws are the Kadee screws and it wasn't necessary to use them as the bolster screws that came with that caboose fit.



However, on these two cabooses, the bolster screws don't hold the Kadee trucks in place.

The next photo shows the two screws that are in question. The small screw on the left is a 1.7mm screw and not long enough to hold the Kadee trucks.

The screw on the right is the Kadee truck screw. It is however, a 2.0mm screw.

[deemery]

I bet that Kadee screw is 2-56, rather than 2mm.  You could drill and tap the coupler hole for the larger screw.

dave

[ACL1504]

I put a 2.0mm tap in a hand held pin vise and proceeded to tap the 2.0mm opening in the brass bolster.

While tapping the one end, the brass bolster ring came unsoldered.  It sure seems that every project needs to be stopped and something else fixed in order to continue. I'll fast forward here and say the bolster and bolster ring were re-soldered.



All the Kadee screws and trucks are in place.

[ACL1504]

I bet that Kadee screw is 2-56, rather than 2mm.  You could drill and tap the coupler hole for the larger screw.

dave

Dave,

The screw is in fact a 2.0mm and not the 2-56. I tried the 2-56 and it was a no go.

Tom

[ACL1504]

I added the yellow marker lights to the two cabooses. They were a tight fit. I didn't want to glue them as I have in the past had to replace a bulb. The marker lights are grain of wheat bulbs and not LEDs. It is possible Tomar is now using LEDs. I've had these for the past 20years.



I soldered the two red wires with resistors and the two blue wires together. These will be soldered to the Kadee truck wires.

[ACL1504]

I cut some Acetate into small squares for the windows. I placed the Acetate over the cutting mat and used the lines for cutting the squares.

[ACL1504]

I then placed the squares over the inside window openings and tacked them in place with CAA (super glue).



I cut small strips of Acetate for the cupola windows. The cupola windows were a bit "tricksie" but, to my suprise they fit with no issues and then tacked in place.

I let the two cabooses sit as shown to allow the fumes to escape.



Done for today.