FOS' Pub Crawl Build

[deemery]

A couple comments on staining.  (1) different pieces of wood, or even different parts of the same tree, will take stain differently.  You can usually darken by adding more stain to the lighter sections.  (2) I like spray shellac to seal before applying stain.  That helps get a more even coat and reduces warping.  (3) I also learned the hard way that it's best to stain the full 'slabs' of wood, before adding bracing or cutting out openings, and let those slabs dry thoroughly under weights (flat surface bricks, $.69 each at Home Depot, make great weights.  Put wax paper between the wood and brick, though.) 


dave

[ACL1504]

Making great progress Tom.

Curt,

Thank you.

Tom 

[ACL1504]

Following along Tom, can't wait to see your progress.  Mark

Mark,

Thank you as well. I'm enjoying this build.

Tom 

[ACL1504]

Thanks for the detailed views and comments as you build. I'm enjoying following along.

Vince,

You are very welcome and I'm happy to have you along on this one.

Tom 

[ACL1504]

A couple comments on staining.  (1) different pieces of wood, or even different parts of the same tree, will take stain differently.  You can usually darken by adding more stain to the lighter sections.  (2) I like spray shellac to seal before applying stain.  That helps get a more even coat and reduces warping.  (3) I also learned the hard way that it's best to stain the full 'slabs' of wood, before adding bracing or cutting out openings, and let those slabs dry thoroughly under weights (flat surface bricks, $.69 each at Home Depot, make great weights.  Put wax paper between the wood and brick, though.) 


dave

Dave,


Thanks for the your staining comments.

I'm not looking to darken the wood but rather have it much lighter. I didn't want the darker pieces. Hopefully, I can make the adjustment to even it out after painting.

I've learned the hard way to brace and then stain. I've stained first in the past and then braced. Even though I've added weights until dry, I didn't feel it was better. I guess it's just personal preference here.

Tom 

[deemery]

I've tried it both ways.  What's happened to me several times is that the bleeping bracing warped along with the wood panel.  Maybe that means my bracing wasn't sturdy enough.  But on my recent Laird Stone flat project, I wanted to keep the structure relatively shallow, so 1/4" bracing was right out.  (The first attempt, bracing then staining, warped badly.  I ended up tossing that piece out, but also because I mis-cut the doors on it.)  On the reworked piece, "stain then brace" worked much better. 

dave

[Mark Dalrymple]

Looking good, Tom.

I use 'titan buff' by Golden to lighten my darker wood.  I also stain first and then brace.  My reason is because I also like to put my 6x6 corner trim on before I brace.  I put the trim on with the back of the wall flat on the bench, and this leaves the trim slightly proud of the weatherboards, as it should be.  Like you say - everyone's different.

Cheers, Mark.

[ACL1504]

I've tried it both ways.  What's happened to me several times is that the bleeping bracing warped along with the wood panel.  Maybe that means my bracing wasn't sturdy enough.  But on my recent Laird Stone flat project, I wanted to keep the structure relatively shallow, so 1/4" bracing was right out.  (The first attempt, bracing then staining, warped badly.  I ended up tossing that piece out, but also because I mis-cut the doors on it.)  On the reworked piece, "stain then brace" worked much better. 

dave

Dave,

On smaller structures I'll always use scale 10X10s (1/4") and 12X12s for larger structures. Never had a bleed into the bracing though.

In your bracing of 1/4", I wonder if to much A&I was applied causing the warp?

Also, I was wondering if the sprayed shellac doesn't allow the A&I to stain the wood. Or are you staining the shellac?

Tom 

[ACL1504]

Looking good, Tom.

I use 'titan buff' by Golden to lighten my darker wood.  I also stain first and then brace.  My reason is because I also like to put my 6x6 corner trim on before I brace.  I put the trim on with the back of the wall flat on the bench, and this leaves the trim slightly proud of the weatherboards, as it should be.  Like you say - everyone's different.

Cheers, Mark.

Mark, Cheers,

I will add corner trim prior to bracing if the corner will be the same color as the walls. If not, corner trim comes after bracing. I've never thought of adding the corner trim to extend or "slightly proud" of the siding. I'll keep that in mind.

More ways to skin the cat I guess. I've braced first so long it just seems natural at this point.

I appreciate your in put.

Tom 

[Mark Dalrymple]

I've never thought of adding the corner trim to extend or "slightly proud" of the siding. I'll keep that in mind.

Modern day practice (in my experience) is to nail 4"x3/4" timber over the top of the weatherboards.  Scribers are then cut out of 2"x1/2" or similar and nailed to the edge of the 4"x3/4".  In older times (this is what I found when doing renovations on or 1894 cottage villa) they used 4"x2"s and 6"x2"s.  The weatherboards were cut short of the corners by a few inches.  The 4"x2" timber would then be tacked in position on the corner studs and a pencil run down the weatherboards, marking their position on the side of the 4"x2".  A saw cut would be ripped down the back of the 4"x2" and then a combination of a hand saw and a chisel would be used to remove the unwanted material.  The first piece would be nailed flush with the corner and then the 6"x2" would be used on the second face, giving an even corner.  Typically, the scribed part of the corner trim would cover the end nails on the weatherboards, which is why I never add nail holes at corners or around doors and windows.  As you can deduce this method leaves the corner and opening trim proud of the weatherboards by about 3/4"s.  6"x2"s and 8"x2" were sometimes used.  This would give the difference in our modeling of using 6"x6" or 8"x8" corner trim.

Cheers, Mark.

[ACL1504]

I've never thought of adding the corner trim to extend or "slightly proud" of the siding. I'll keep that in mind.

Modern day practice (in my experience) is to nail 4"x3/4" timber over the top of the weatherboards.  Scribers are then cut out of 2"x1/2" or similar and nailed to the edge of the 4"x3/4".  In older times (this is what I found when doing renovations on or 1894 cottage villa) they used 4"x2"s and 6"x2"s.  The weatherboards were cut short of the corners by a few inches.  The 4"x2" timber would then be tacked in position on the corner studs and a pencil run down the weatherboards, marking their position on the side of the 4"x2".  A saw cut would be ripped down the back of the 4"x2" and then a combination of a hand saw and a chisel would be used to remove the unwanted material.  The first piece would be nailed flush with the corner and then the 6"x2" would be used on the second face, giving an even corner.  Typically, the scribed part of the corner trim would cover the end nails on the weatherboards, which is why I never add nail holes at corners or around doors and windows.  As you can deduce this method leaves the corner and opening trim proud of the weatherboards by about 3/4"s.  6"x2"s and 8"x2" were sometimes used.  This would give the difference in our modeling of using 6"x6" or 8"x8" corner trim.

Cheers, Mark.

Mark, Cheers,

I agree with all the above. Much older wood sided structures in Orlando have the 1(3/4") X 4 (3/4") corner trim at 90 degree angles, one over lapping the other by 3/4".

In our HO world we have commonly use the HO scale 4X4s to represent the over lapping corner trim. I'll give the 6X6 corner trim a try one build at a later date.

In the future, I'll not put nail holes next to the corner trim.

Great conversation on this part of the hobby.

Tom 

[ACL1504]

I took all the plastic doors and windows and washed them in warm soapy water to remove any lasting mold release. I set them aside to dry on a paper towel.

I left them on the plastic sprues for painting later.



I've decided to paint this structure with Floquil Driftwood. I found an old bottle of Driftwood that was still usable and combined it with another one.



More in a few.

[ACL1504]

I've had this bottle of floquil Driftwood for some 35+ years. Back then the Floquil Flo-Stains didn't sell very well and this one was on sale for .99.



I used a 1/2" soft bristle brush to paint the walls with Driftwood. I dipped the tip of the brush into the paint and then into a bottle of clean thinner. This helped thin the Driftwood and gave me a Driftwood wash.

As I mentioned earlier, this also gave me the coverage I wanted to lighten the darker stained wall sections.



More in a few.

[ACL1504]

After the Driftwood wash dried, i noticed it settled into the nail holes.



I carefully went over the nail holes with the ponce wheel.



Continued -

[ACL1504]

Not shown here but I also stained and painted the 4X4 corner trim. When all was dry, I edge glued them to the walls per Doug's suggestion.

However, I did deviate on two of the walls with respect to the trim.

In the photo below you can see he suggested gluing the corner trim to the top of walls 5 and 7, bottom circle. This was guess work on how long they needed to be.



An easier solution was to cut and glue this trim to the center of the front main wall, shown in the upper red circle and marked in green. I test fit the walls and this worked perfectly.

I'll try to post more later this evening.