CCK21221 Nemchik's Ole Country Store - 2022 Challenge

[NEMMRRC]

Corrugated roof looks great Jaime , and is there anyone on this forum that doesn't have that ruler ?

Gotta have the right tools to do the right job 


Jaime

[NEMMRRC]

I just caught up on the thread. Jamie it is looking great. Thanks for sharing.

Jim D

Thank -you- for following along!


Jaime

[NEMMRRC]

Super job on the roof!     I like that Fiskars miniature guillotine.  I gotta get me one of them. 

Thank you.


I could not resist buying it when I saw it at the craft shop. Maybe it was Michaels maybe it was Hobby Lobby. I forget. And then when I got that nifty scale rule at The Expo I had to marry the two.


Jaime

[NEMMRRC]

What Bob said, to both items.  I particularly like that the roof is weathered, but not rusted out ...


dave

I wanted a "worn" look but not a "worn out" look. It's hard sometimes to know when to stop.


Jaime

[NEMMRRC]

Moving on.

The repair shop building (the one I painted white) has a nifty bump out above one of the service bay doors. This is it.





I have learned to add extra bracing to serve as cleats to these tiny add-ons so they have more surface area for gluing when it's time to add them to the main building they belong with. So that is what I did here.








And this is how that should look once the bump out is glued to the wall.





But I didn't glue it to the wall just yet.

I didn't want the white wall to show through the windows on the bump out. So I decided to add an "interior" that could be seen through the bump out windows.










I found a picture of the inside of a repair shop or parts store or some such and glued it to the area on the wall that the bump out would cover.

Here is a closer look.





Not bad.

I added a "mechanic" to the scene.






And then I proceeded to glue the bump out to the wall.






And now I wait for the glue to dry....

More as it develops.

Jaime

[GPdemayo]

Great job on the metal roofing, especially the cap. 

FYI, the cap pieces during the time period most of us model (and others like eave, rake valley, etc.) generally came in 10' and 12' lengths.

Thanks for the feedback.

I think I cut the cap lengths to something like 16' lengths. I have to double check. But now I know a more accurate length.

Jaime

You're very welcome Jaime.

To further explain, the sheet metal workers use two pieces of equipment to make the metal roof flashing used for roofing. The first is a shear, it is used to cut metal sheets into the width required for the flashing and the second is the brake that bends the metal into the shape required.

The shear and brake, along with the raw metal sheets, came in 10' and 12' widths. For an eave drip, the sheet metal guy would use the shear to cut the sheet into 6-1/4" widths, then make the necessary bends in each piece as necessary.

The link below explains about metal roofing systems and how all the pieces go together to make up a finished roof.

https://www.metalroofingsource.com/absolute_roofing_instructions.pdf

[Mark Dalrymple]

You have made some great progress while I have been away on our short holiday, Jaime.

The kit is coming together very well.

Cheers, Mark.

[NEMMRRC]

Great job on the metal roofing, especially the cap. 

FYI, the cap pieces during the time period most of us model (and others like eave, rake valley, etc.) generally came in 10' and 12' lengths.

Thanks for the feedback.

I think I cut the cap lengths to something like 16' lengths. I have to double check. But now I know a more accurate length.

Jaime

You're very welcome Jaime.

To further explain, the sheet metal workers use two pieces of equipment to make the metal roof flashing used for roofing. The first is a shear, it is used to cut metal sheets into the width required for the flashing and the second is the brake that bends the metal into the shape required.

The shear and brake, along with the raw metal sheets, came in 10' and 12' widths. For an eave drip, the sheet metal guy would use the shear to cut the sheet into 6-1/4" widths, then make the necessary bends in each piece as necessary.

The link below explains about metal roofing systems and how all the pieces go together to make up a finished roof.

https://www.metalroofingsource.com/absolute_roofing_instructions.pdf

And now we know..... the rest of the story 


I measured and I cut mine 16' long. I guessed at it. But now I know ;-)


Jaime

[NEMMRRC]

You have made some great progress while I have been away on our short holiday, Jaime.

The kit is coming together very well.

Cheers, Mark.

Glad you stopped by.


Gotta keep making progress...


Jaime

[NEMMRRC]

Moving on.

I got tired of a cluttered workbench so I decided to clean up as much as possible.





More as it develops.


Jaime

[postalkarl]

hey Jaime:

Your build looks just great. I like the color on the corrugated roof. I also use A lot of Hardware Store spray paint. Great stuff isn't it?

Karl

[NEMMRRC]

hey Jaime:

Your build looks just great. I like the color on the corrugated roof. I also use A lot of Hardware Store spray paint. Great stuff isn't it?

Karl

Those rattle cans are handy and affordable and last a good while. I'm pleased with them so far. Thanks for following along.


Jaime

[NEMMRRC]

Moving on.

The kit has the modeler assemble the two service/bay/garage doors from already cut laserboard. The laserboard has double-sided adhesive on the back. Basically one peels off the parts for the doors and layers them on top of each other. It's pretty straight forward. The tricky part is cutting out the squares to give each panel relief.




It wasn't until I had done a couple of the squares that I figured out it was much easier and faster to cut them out from the back of the laserboard instead of the front like I had started out.





Here is all the squares cut out.





Here is the back to the cut out panels to give the door some relief.





And here is the door all put together minus the glazing I opted to use for one of the square rows. I guess one could model the entire door with glazing and give the viewer a better look to the interior. Perhaps you can do yours that way.





There is also a frame for the doorway that one is to remove from the laserboard.





Here is how it all looks on the doorway.





I painted the door and frame with some flat white from a rattle can. I then peeled off the backing to the adhesive on the back of the frame and affixed the frame to the building and glued the door behind the doorway. I added some signs to liven things up a bit.










This laserboard thing is quite effective.

More as it develops.

Jaime

[S&S RR]

Jaime


Your build is coming along great. very nice work.

[postalkarl]

Hey Jaime:

Looks great so far. Will be following along.

Karl