Flotation mine 2022 build challenge

[Mark Dalrymple]

You've made some real progress Mark. Great how to. Beautiful modeling.

Thanks, Curt.

Chipping away at things.  I'm looking forwards to getting that first main sub-assembly finished.  I think I will feel a bit more like I have tamed the monster.

Cheers, Mark.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Great modeling and thread, very fine work.  Sorry to hear the sock technique didn't work on the board and batten siding.  I understand why. It sure is a good technique for clapboard - it's my go to technique for pealing paint ever since I learned how to do it from one of your build threads.

Thanks, John.

I use the sock method on scribed siding, too.  I first fully paint the wall with a large brush and then wipe all the paint off the flat surface.   This leaves the paint in the recesses.  I then use the sock technique.

Cheers, Mark.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Wow you are really moving along. It looks just great so far.

Thanks, Karl.

Hopefully I'll find time for a bit more progress today.

Cheers, Mark.

[tom.boyd.125]

Mark,
What a great project !
Know that you will do a great scratch built on the huge project.
Tommy

[GPdemayo]

Impressive so far Mark.....well done. 

[Mark Dalrymple]

What a great project !
Know that you will do a great scratch built on the huge project.

Thanks, Tommy.

It certainly has some complexities about it!  Still working on getting that first main sub-assembly together...

Cheers, Mark.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Impressive so far Mark.....well done. 

Thanks, Gregory.

In my search through my old kits for spare board and batten siding I found Centennial Models 'stamp mill'.  It looks to be a similar design (although somewhat simpler) so may find a place in Shadowlands.  It looks to be one of those kits which is half scratch-building.  There are several sheets of siding with no wall shapes or openings on them.

Below is the single photo in the kit.

Cheers, Mark.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Hi guys.

Well - in the process of getting the main sub-assembly together I keep finding necessary tangents.  One of these was the second cantilevered room to sit over the highest flotation bath.

Photo 1 - I made up the small room.  The sides I kept 3mm lower in height than the front for the beams to notch in.  I taped the back of the gable wall and corner trim was glued on and trimmed (I always add my corner trim to the gable walls).  I then cut out the opening for the door.    After this was glued in I trimmed the battens and added 6x2 trim for framing.  I glued bracing on the back edges of the gable wall, hard up against the corner trim.  I cut a base from siding and glued this to the front with a piece of bracing added.  I then cut and glued the side beams to the base and front.  The sides were then glued to the front and beam.  Finally I cut and added a styrene back and glued this in.

Photo 2 - I held the room against the wall to which it is to be attached and carefully cross cut the battens.  I then used a small chisel blade to remove the battens.  I also notched out a small piece of corner trim for the far beam.

Photo 3 - shows the room held in position.  This will give a nice clean join when glued together.

Photo 4 - I liked my way of doing the small decking on the first room, so did it again.  Here I am holding the center bearer showing the small notches made with a saw and a 6x2 held in position.  I will glue a piece of 6x2 to the two ends of the row of joists and then glue this boundary joist the the two outer end bearers and the end of the notched bearer to the two long beams.

More soon, cheers, Mark.

[PRR Modeler]

Great modeling Mark.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Great modeling Mark.

Thanks, Curt.

Its not a project I can sit down to and just carry on with.  Every time I have to get my head back into what I am doing.

Cheers, Mark.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Hi guys.

A little more progress.

This photo shows what I mean about headwork.  The piece of styrene to the left has to be spliced onto the piece I am holding to the right.  For each piece like this I have to carefully measure off the plan - typically working off two elevations - then carefully measure my wooden piece, draw up a template sketch, double check everything, and then cut out the piece of styrene.  Then the notches are cut out for the bracing and I get to check to see if I got it right.  The old adage of measure twice, cut once has become a bit of a mantra.

More soon, cheers, Mark.

[postalkarl]

hey mark:

looks like you are moving right along. Looking good.

Karl

[PRR Modeler]

Great job with that Mark.

[Bernd]

Haven't checked in while. Looking good Mark.

I keep looking at those drawings in the magazine and am amazed you can make sense of it all.

Bernd

[Mark Dalrymple]

hey mark:

looks like you are moving right along. Looking good.

Thanks Karl.

Chipping away at it...

Cheers, Mark.