Debra’s Fashions of Distinction - Scratch Build Using 3D and Laser

[Jim Donovan]

Since last I was able to post much has changed. I've learned a 3D CAD program called Tinkercad, have bought a large 3D resin printer, a 10 watt diode laser, foam cutter and had already acquired a paper draw and cut Cricut type machine.

With these new tools I have built a couple of prototype structures for the local museum, one was an Orange Packaging Company called Boyers and the other was the terminal for the Atlantic Coast Line in Leesburg, FL.





The Spanish tile roof of the building was 3D printed.





The windows, water tower and orange crates were 3D printed. The building was designed in Tinkercad and walls cut using 10 watt diode laser computer controlled.


With the rapid advances happening in both equipment available and electronics that can be used I thought I'd provide a thread on my next project highlighting the advantages these items provide in improving my modeling efforts. I will begin posting progress and equipment information tomorrow.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Nice work, Jeff.

You seem to be getting a handle on your new modelling machinery.

Cheers, Mark.

[Keep It Rusty]

Just fantastic, Jim.

I started with Tinkercad, too. I often still use it to simplify a task, but Fusion360 is now what I design all my kits in.

Just love what you're doing here. 3D printers and lasers changed my modelling world.

[ACL1504]

Jim,

Very nice work here. Very nicely done on the station build.


Tom 

[GPdemayo]

Beautiful work Jim.....can't wait to see more in depth threads about all the high tech stuff you're doing. 

[Jim Donovan]

Thanks folks. Hopefully I will be able to share some information others will find helpful. The technology of hobby equipment is truly advancing at an incredible rate. What I am showing today will be outdated within 5 years, if not sooner. I will take a minute to explain the tools I have that were not available 10 years ago, at least not at a cost hobbyists like myself could afford.

First and the oldest is a Cameo 3 made by Silhouette. This craft machine can be used to cut intricate designs in fabric, vinyl, and card stock. There are newer versions available but for my purposes this machine is adequate. What makes these machines very useful are their ability to register the paper or card stock that has first been printed with a design. It then can make intricate cuts so that the printed design printed is cut out accurately. It also makes short work of cutting acetate sheets for clear plastic windows. I prefer to use real glass but sometimes plastic works just fine.



I am using it to create mockup's and interior items for this project. This is the first floor of the building:



More in a minute.

[Jim Donovan]

Next up is the Saturn 2 3D resin printer. There are two main types available for hobbyists at this time, filament and resin. Filament printers are able to make large, fairly complicated, items quickly however their level of detailing is limited by the thickness of each print layer. Resin printers use a liquid and with LED lighting can produce a very thin layer, building up the finished item with .02-.05 mm layers, resulting in highly detailed items. However they are much slower then filament printers and the the liquid used is toxic and must be handled carefully. I can't stress that enough. I wear nitrile gloves and a ventilator whenever I have the cover off the machine. I have the printer in an air conditioned area of the garage and ducted fan ventilation. Originally I was rather careless and as a result developed an allergy to the liquid in its raw state. I now break out with a rash if I come in contact. Not taking any more chances I wear the ventilator as well. Here you see the machine as well as the ventilation.



When the printer has completed a print the resulting item needs to be washed and further hardened by UV light. I use a Autocubic wash/ dryer:



Since the item is elevated from the platen by use of standoffs, they need to be trimmed off and the part can then be painted as needed. Here is a photo of parts that will be used as arches on the Saturn 2 platen:



More Tomorrow.

[Jim Donovan]

Perhaps I can explain the last major tool I will use before calling it a night. By far the most fun I bought a craft laser called Sculpfun 9S. It is a 10 watt diode laser that travels in a 14 x 14 area by attached belts and is controlled by a laptop computer running on a program called LaserBurn. There are bigger, faster machines available but for $200 and change this was a good machine to learn on. It it great at cutting up to 1/8 inch basswood and baltic birch plywood. I buy the plywood in 5 x 5 foot sheets at a cost of $29.00 per sheet. This is a lot less then what craft basswood is running these days. The advantage of the laser is of course precision as well as allowing for very detailed cuts. The learning curve for this machine was much shorter then the 3D printer but then it is essentially a 2D cutter with the ability to score and emboss. I use the same CAD program to produce the .svg files needed (the 3D printer uses what are called .stl files) and then import them into the LaserBurn program. However you can use the LaserBurn program directly for most design work if you simply want to use a laser cutter.

Don't confuse these diode hobbyist lasers with commercial lasers. I typically set the speed of a cut at 400 mm per second, that is about 1.75 inches. A commercial laser covers that distance much, much faster. Moreover I need 4 passes to cut through a 1/8 inch birch plywood. However, for one off items and small projects they are great.

Of the three machines this is the one I believe will see the biggest improvements over then next five years. Currently there are two type of commercial lasers, diode, which is limited to about 20 watts (one company, X-Tool, now offers a 40 watt. True commercial lasers all run using a CO2 head allowing for much higher wattage but cost in the thousands rather then the hundreds. However given the rapid advancement in all things electronic I can see a day when diode lasers will be more powerful than CO2 or perhaps a new method will come about and replace both methods. I keep my laser in the same area as the 3D printer, it is enclosed with a low cost fire resistant protective cover and sits on a low cost stainless steel table bought from Amazon. The stainless ensures the beam will not cut through the table. I also keep a mesh tray under the laser for the wood to sit on while being cut. It is connected by duct to the ventilation fans so smoke and wood smell goes outside. A separate but required item to make the laser useful is a air assist. This pump provides air at the site of the cut, pushing debri out of the way and helping keep the parts cool. Much like the 3D printer care is a must when using a laser. The reflected light can permanently damage your eyes which is why I have the enclosure with a coated see through door. I also have glasses made for lasers when I need to look at a part while it is being cut. So here is the laser as well as some of the first parts cut out for Debra D's Boutique of Distinction:



Till Tomorrow
 

[Keep It Rusty]

Thanks for the behind the scenes look at your setup, Jim. These tools, no longer bank breakers, really do change the hobby for the better.

And they are incredibly addictive! I draw and print details like there's no tomorrow!

[ACL1504]

Jim,

Very interesting information. Thanks for sharing.

Tom 

[GPdemayo]

Very interesting Jim.....the tech is getting amazing and I'll be looking in on the build. 

[Jim Donovan]

To make this project the most important tool is going to be Tinkercad a free online entry level CAD program.

https://www.tinkercad.com

Sponsored by Autocad, the maker of Fusion 360, it is designed to be simple to learn and use. Geared for use in schools, even a grandfather like me can learn it. There are plenty of videos available on YouTube that help you become competent quickly. For basic projects like designing windows and doors it will quickly produce the files needed for a 3D printer or laser cutter to make, depending on what you are trying to accomplish. However I am pushing its abilities to its limits on this project.

Tinkercad is based on the used of creating, merging and subtracting shapes to create the final design. Cubes, spheres, cylinders and such are created, attached to each other, stretched, erased and so on. An advantage of using such a program is you build up a library of finished projects which can then be used in new projects. Also finished files as can be found at sites like Thingiverse and Cults can be imported (limited to less than 25mb size). More on these sites later but here are their locations if you'd like to see the wealth of designs that are available.:

https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://cults3d.com/en

Usually the final shape in Tinkercad might be made of of a combination of perhaps 200 shapes. However I am finding this project is pushing past 1000+ shapes for many parts. It appears I will need to take the plunge and learn Fusion 360 soon. However, Tinkercad is a great place to start and has allowed me to do much.

The inspiration for this scene is a building my wife and I saw in Canada during a recent cruise. I learned it was built in 1900 and was originally a wine distribution firm with the owner's family living on the upper two floors. I hope to bring as much as I can of its elegant design to Debra D's Bouquet of Distinction



So here is the initial design. More complete design images will be shown as we go.

[nycjeff]

hello Jim, that prototype is one good looking building. I can't wait to see how you approach this build.

[ACL1504]

Jim,

This will be interesting to watch. The building looks like a 1:1 Magnuson kit.

Tom 

[ReadingBob]

Jim,

Wow!  Just wow.  That's all I can think of at the moment.  Count me in as a follower.