Debra’s Fashions of Distinction - Scratch Build Using 3D and Laser

[Rail and Tie]

GOOD STUFF JIM!

[Jim Donovan]

Jim,

I am impressed with your creativity as well as the planning required to make everything fit together so well.  I'm impressed with this build and cannot wait to see your further progress.

Thank you Jerry I hope to provide some better insight of these new tools abilities as I go forward.

Jim

Jim

[Jim Donovan]

GOOD STUFF JIM!

Thanks Daryl!

[Jim Donovan]

Jim

Just read this thread.  I'm really impressed!!!

Jerry

Thank you Jerry, I'm hoping I can give folks ideas of what these new machines can do.

Jim

[Jim Donovan]

Up until now I have been spending most of my time designing and making the parts needed for the first floor.

 Now I'd like to take a minute to explain a little how the 3D printer and laser cutter open up possibilities to improve the presentation of some of the aspects of structure modeling, in this example the ability to provide very realistic and unique doors and windows, both inside as well as outside. I previously touched on my testing of windows that have mullions on both sides of the glass. I found using the 3D printer for the actual window and the wood laser cutter to make the inside mullions and attached inner frame works best. The 1/16 inch thick basswood frame provides a good solid connection with the glass and glues to it better then resin window to resin inner frame. The cut glass can now be placed between the two parts and held in place without any glue coming into contact with the glass. In order to achieve as realistic a presentation as possible Clover Glass must be used as it is only .006 inches thick, over 5 times thinner then microscope glass slide covers. It can be bought at:

https://cloverhouse.com/Cart/index.php?cPath=37https://cloverhouse.com/Cart/index.php?cPath=37

I personally love to use real glass where possible, I think the time needed is well worth the effort, however getting glue in the visible area of the glass is always a problem. Using this three part 'window' eliminated the issue. The first photo shows the design of one of the windows. The shape is different but design is the same.  The next photo shows the outer windows shortly after having been printed but not yet removed from their supports. After cleaning and drying they are painted much like normal plastic windows. The resin printed window has a deep frame on its outer sides which allows the cut glass to be placed inside and then the wood inner frame is placed over it. Dimensionally the inner frame is snug against the outer frame as well as flush to the back and only a little glue is needed to keep both in place and the glass from moving. The final photo shows the end result looking from the inside out.  The camera was only 6 inches away from the window so every wrinkle or imperfection can be seen. From two feet away it looks just like a multi pane window however I do intend to go back and see what debris can safely be removed once the model is finished.





Tomorrow I will go through the steps to create the main doors and showing how the glass is cut and fitted.

[ReadingBob]

Very clever Jim and totally amazing!  

[R Edington]

Hey Tom,

 Great work so far and thanks for sharing your work with drawings.
It's great that technology is getting so affordable for the hobbyist. 

What software do you draw with for your laser???
Are you using lightburn to run it???

I built a 100 watt CO2 laser with a 18"X36" bed, have 4 resin and 3 FDM printers, and a Cameo Pro that I use for complete builds in N scale,


 Thanks


 

[GPdemayo]

Nicely done Jim.....it takes the hobby into a whole new direction. 

[deemery]

Suggest adding a new forum to discuss laser cutting, 3D printing, machining and other modeling technologies....

dave

[GPdemayo]

What Dave said.....

[Keep It Rusty]

Suggest adding a new forum to discuss laser cutting, 3D printing, machining and other modeling technologies....

dave

Happy to add this!

[Jim Donovan]

Hey Tom,

 Great work so far and thanks for sharing your work with drawings.
It's great that technology is getting so affordable for the hobbyist. 

What software do you draw with for your laser???
Are you using lightburn to run it???

I built a 100 watt CO2 laser with a 18"X36" bed, have 4 resin and 3 FDM printers, and a Cameo Pro that I use for complete builds in N scale,


 Thanks
Rodney;

Thank you for stopping by. To answer your questions I do most of my drawing using TinkerCad, even if I am going to export the file 2D for the laser or the Cameo cutter. I sometimes use the Silhouette Design program, especially if I am going to print a design and have the Cameo 3 cut it out. Once the design is finalized I make an .SVG file and send it to Light-burn to tweak the design for shading, engraving and slight design changes if needed. Then the Light-burn program runs the laser using an old Mac Laptop I have. My laser is no where near the power you have made. Mine is a 10 watt diode laser made by Sulpfun. Your 100 watt CO2 is a serious machine. I just had my Elegoo Saturn 2 fry the mother board so I am using the little Elegoo Mars 2 machine I still have. Not sure what happened to the Saturn but I managed to fry the innards so not sure if I will rebuild or get another at some point. The little Mars 2 gets most of what I need done so all OK for now. Thanks for following along and hope I answered your questions.

Jim

 

[Jim Donovan]

I see our guru of Forum software has added a new category for new tech tools, thanks Rusty! And thanks to everyone who has stopped by to see progress. I have been a little slow on this project but will catch up the thread today.

Jim

[Jim Donovan]

So I promised to show how the doors were made and said I'd post it about a month ago   Oh boy, well better late then never. I designed the main entrance doors using Tinkercad and came up with this design:



The 3D resin printer made two copies. I designed the doors so the glass could be slid down into the middle for the top window and I had back frames made to hold the other two door windows in place. Once printed I painted them red with a rattle can which produced a textured finish. Not sure I like it but I went with it anyhow, from a distance it doesn't show up much. I cut the clover glass to shape, used canopy glue to hold the glass and added the door handles that had been 3D printed separately and painted bronze. So the following pictures will show the steps and the result.













And that's how I made the doors. The single doors were made in the same manner.

Jim


[color]

[Jim Donovan]

With the first floor essentially done I moved to the second floor. Each floor is designed to nest into the floor below. I am using the concrete/limestone columns and facing designs to act as the retainers for the floor above them, holding each in place. This also allows the various glue seams to be hidden from view. As I mentioned I am pushing Tinkercad pretty much to it part size limits on this project so am unable to produce a true finished CAD design in one frame, however I have been able to get more parts in one drawing then I initially thought possible. So here is a close approximation of what I am shooting for.