Inter-Action Hobbies 17' Travel trailer build

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_{I then added the floor bracing. Remember I cut a second piece? Both were glued in place as shown below.}

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Referring to the photo above , I made the mistake of gluing in the one wheel. This created a problem with gluing the other wall to the floor panel.

I had to balance the trailer on a metal plate and let the wheel hang over while I glued and squared the wall until dry.

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When the other wall was dry, I glued the other wheel in place along with the suspension springs.

NOTE: The wheels need to be glued in place prior to adding the roof skin.

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At least the trailer is level and the tires fully inflated.





Back in a few, Diet Pepsi time.

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I used my NWSL Chopper and cut two 4X12 pieces of wood for upper side supports. remember the 6X6 I cut earlier. I used that as a length to cut the 4X12.

I glued one to the top between the walls making sure it was flush with the sides of the upper portion of the trailer walls.

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I did the same with the front of the trailer but made sure the 4X12 was set inside the curve of the front wall.



When and if you decide to add a brace to the front, make sure your brace is below the front window line.

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I rolled my roof panel around a small bottle of paint. I forgot to take a photo of this step. This will give you a start on the roof curve as you glue it to the walls.

NOTE: This next step is very critical. The length of the roof panel is set and no one wants to end up with it not fitting.

Refer to the photo below. Make sure you glue the back/rear of the roof "FLUSH" with the bottom of the trailer floor panel.
I glued mine in place and let it sit over night to make sure the glue was dry. I also checked to make sure the rear of the roof panel was flush with the bottom.



The next morning I glued the roof half was up the sides and on top as shown below.

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After several hours of letting the glue dry, I finished gluing the roof on the walls. There is just enough of the roof length to tuck it up and flush with the bottom the front of the floor panel.

It was necessary for me to hold the front in place between the trailer hitch until the glue dried. I held it for about 10 minutes while the glue set.

This is how if looked after gluing the roof in place. You can see where the roof panel hangs over the sides.

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The instructions call for the modeler to use a sharp blade to "cut" away the excess or overhang of the roof skin. Here is a photo from the instructions.



This method was a little testy in the rear around the bumper. I used the smooth side of an Emory board for this.

When finished trimming the roof skin, I thought the trailer looked a little square. I guess on the real thing the roof edges were in fact square.

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I used the smooth side of the Emory board and lightly rounded the roof edges.

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My sanding of the roof edges caused some of the silver paint to be sanded off. Here is how I prepped the trailer to receive a new coat of silver.

The Acetate glass is already on the windows. I used painters tape and cut five pieces to just cover the windows.





Back in a few more.

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I sprayed the trailer with Tamiya Silver as I did the first time around. It was dry to the touch after several hours but I let is sit over night so the paint could cure.

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I touched up the black on the tires and let it sit for about an hour. I added the spare tire and brake lights. Darryl also includes small license plates to use. The plate bracket and roof vent were painted silver and added where applicable.

I glued the screen door to the inside of the main trailer door and then glue them in an open position on the trailer. I glued Sally in as well.

Here is my version of the finished 1950's style 17' aluminum trailer.

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