Winter Challenge 2024/2025 - Flat Iron Corner Building - Tom Langford.

[ACL1504]

the gooseneck lights look great Tom.

One question though, did you anneal the stainless tubing before bending it?

Enjoy dinner with Pam.

Ron,

Thank you. No, It isn't necessary to anneal the stainless tubing. Well, let me put it this way, I never have and it has not been a problem and many of my goose neck lights have never had any issues. However, I guess you could, but that process may also melt the thin coating on the LED wires causing a short.

Tom

[ACL1504]

You're a better man than me Tom!

Butty Curt,

No not really, I remember the first time I did it and it wasn't as hard as I thought.

Tom

[ACL1504]

Tom, That company is a good source for lighting.
That bending tool is slick.
Also liked how you warmed the color temp of those lights.

Rick,

I've been using them for several years, actually, about 15+.

I tried bending a goose neck over a #11 handle, it works but is more difficult.

Thanks for the comment and for stopping by.

Tom

[ACL1504]

Just wow and thanks for the link! Are you using the yellow on the entire reflective surface of the shade?

Philip,

You are very welcome. Yes, and I'll go into more detail on my next update.

Tom 

[ACL1504]

Nice work there Tom. And thanks for the how to. When you put the drop of yellow on. Did you put it rite on the center of the LED ? Thank you Tom. Bob.

Bob,

Thank you, much appreciated and you are welcome.

I'll answer your question in the next update.

Tom 

[ACL1504]

Nice work there Tom. And thanks for the how to. When you put the drop of yellow on. Did you put it rite on the center of the LED ? Thank you Tom. Bob.

Good question.............

Philip and Bob,

It is a great question and I'll go into more detail on another way to cover the yellow.

Stay tuned for the next update later this afternoon.

Tom

[friscomike]

Howdy Tom, nice work on the lights.  Ngineering stuff is great.  I wish the had the gooseneck fixture for O scale.  Have fun, mike

[Larry C]

Tom nice work on the goosenecks and I can't believe how bright they are.

[ACL1504]

Howdy Tom, nice work on the lights.  Ngineering stuff is great.  I wish the had the gooseneck fixture for O scale.  Have fun, mike

Mike, Howdy,

Thank you sir. Ngineering has sure changed how I light structures. Maybe one day they will do some O scale lights. I don't think it would be to difficult to do.

Still having fun.

Tom

[ACL1504]

Tom nice work on the goosenecks and I can't believe how bright they are.

Larry,

Thanks very much. They turned out very good.

Tom 

[ACL1504]

Yesterday I forgot to show the difference side by side.

The one light on the right obviously has the yellow tint added. It tones down the brightness but still gives off plenty of light.



Philip and Bob asked where I applied the clear yellow.

I applied it to the center of the underside of the gooseneck. The clear yellow seeks it's own level so that is why I have the light down side up. You can add more it desired.

Remember, the clear yellow was added to the Canopy Glue once it dried clear. Otherwise, the yellow would so directly on the LED. Also, from experience I can tell you that you won't get an even light if you only put the clear yellow on the LED.

You can see the LED in the lampshade and it appears to not be encased in Canopy Glue. It is; however, and that is why it looks yellow across the entire underside.

[ACL1504]

I mentioned another method of applying the clear yellow. I've done it both ways and personally like what I showed earlier in the narrative.

The Canopy Glue and Tamiya Clear Yellow can be mixed.



The clear yellow looks dark due to it being on the cardboard.

[ACL1504]

I used a toothpick to mix the glue and paint. You can add this mix to the underside of the shade and cover the LED and let dry. I used the toothpick to thin it out so it will dry faster and you can see its clear.

Again, it looks dark from being on the cardboard.

[ACL1504]

I wanted to add escutcheons to the gooseneck arms.

This is how I made them.

I took a piece of brass tubing and cut off a piece about two inches long.



I used the Dremel cutoff disc and rolled the end of the cut piece in my fingers against the surface of the disc. By doing this, I removed the outer part of the tubing and giving me a very thin edge.

[ACL1504]

I then placed the circular cutting tube on a file folder. I used a small hammer and punched through the folder.

This worked perfectly for making the escutcheons for the neck arms.



I then used a metal pointer/awl and push a hole in the center. Easy peasy escutcheons.