FSM Jeffries Point Build

[Zephyrus52246]

You're right about the extra wood, Bob.  I have quite a bit of the bracing left and even used extra pieces.  I'll need some for the roofs, but I should be fine.  I should have remembered I had a lot of left overs from my last FSM kit build a couple of years ago, as seen in this pic.  

Jeff

[Zephyrus52246]

I spent most of the day finishing the bracing and deciding on color scheme.  This is usually a very difficult issue for me, and I end up just choosing whatever colors the kit was painted by the builder.  But for this one, I didn't like the all grey look.  I'd seen a dark green with grey trim pic on line and liked that, so I took a piece of larger stripwood and stained one side with the light grey hunterline stain, which is my usual base.  I then took most of my Vallejo green paints and painted a small strip over the grey and bare wood to compare the colors.  I also had a Delta Ceramcoat Gamal Green which is the one on the far right.   I also painted the top of the caps with their respective colors. 

Jeff

[Zephyrus52246]

I had originally thought dark green and grey, but using the two colors here, I'm leaning toward the dark green with light green trim, eliminating the grey.  I'll let these dry and maybe scuff up them both with a wire brush and add some black oil wash tomorrow to compare again.  I'll also start staining the walls. 

Jeff

[Zephyrus52246]

Started staining the walls.  These two wall pieces had no bracing instructions.  with the first coat of stain, they haven't warped, but I looked into the instructions and they can be braced (I was worried their backsides would show as they are against the roof), so I'll do that after this coat dries.

Jeff

[Zephyrus52246]

Of course looking at the instructions I forgot about two small wall pieces, which also don't have bracing instructions, and braced them.  I'm sure these would have warped without it.  This is typical for my builds, where I forget some piece and then everything stops until it's stained/painted, etc.  That is one reason I take so long.  

Jeff

[Zephyrus52246]

I brushed the test pieces, added nail holes and an oil wash.  The light green is much less bright now.  I then put them on the layout under the less intense lighting (versus the workbench), and I think I'll go with the lighter green as the wall color.  Still undecided on the trim, dark green vs grey.  Leaning toward the grey, maybe a bit darker shade.  

Jeff

[deemery]

If you want an alternative trim color, consider Boxcar Red...  Those wall sections look good!

dave

[Jim Donovan]

Great start Jeff. It is not just you that forgets parts or even jumps past a step and has to go back trust me. 

Jim

[Zephyrus52246]

Dave, you just want red and green as it's Christmas season.     A dark red would probably be a good combo.  Yellow might work also, but I don't have any really compatible yellow paints.  I painted the stick with 4 different greys which were close to the window color and one is a near match.   I will use a slightly darker shade as well on the trim and sponge pain the grey windows/doors for some variation.  

Jeff

[Zephyrus52246]

Glad I'm not the only one, Jim.  I spray painted the backs of the walls flat black.  I hope this will help them not warp and will eliminate any bare wood views through the windows.  

Jeff

[deemery]

Real (Big Bird  ) Yellow is tough to get to look good (doesn't cover very well,) and an expensive pigment from an historical perspective.    A yellow ochre would work, both historically (cheaper pigment, long lasting) and in terms of the color on the model.   https://artyclick.com/color-names-dictionary/color-names/yellow-ochre-color/

dave

[Zephyrus52246]

Dave, I rarely mix colors as I have no art talent.  I think if it had been possible to flunk art class in school I would have.  There's a reason I have the Vallejo Model Color set with 200 colors.  On top of some cheap art store stuff and few left over polly scale colors.  

Jeff

[Zephyrus52246]

Stained the siding with the Hunterline light grey. One coat, let dry and then another and it seems to have been enough coverage.  

Jeff

[Zephyrus52246]

This morning I was quite ambitious and painted the siding.  I put a small blob (this isn't an exact science) in one of the pots on the palette and mix it with some distilled water (about 60/40 paint/water), then apply with the wide flat brush.  This makes an uneven coverage, especially with the large sides.  I then fill a pot with distilled water and using the same brush use the water on the sides while still wet to even the colors out.   I want them irregular, but not too "splotchy".  We'll let this dry for awhile and see how I like it.  Next up is staining the strip wood. 

Jeff

[deemery]

Real (Big Bird ) Yellow is tough to get to look good (doesn't cover very well,) and an expensive pigment from an historical perspective.    A yellow ochre would work, both historically (cheaper pigment, long lasting) and in terms of the color on the model.  https://artyclick.com/color-names-dictionary/color-names/yellow-ochre-color/

dave

A 'tint' is the base color with added white.  A 'shade' is the base color with added black (be careful, a little black goes a long way).  A 'tone' is the base color with added neutral grey.  So if you are trying to match, or want to get a subtle difference in weathering, this gives you an idea how the color changes.  On my Vallejo color chart (you do have one, right?  Mine is hanging up above the paint rack  ), "913" is "Yellow Ochre." 

Hope this helps on a (future) project!

dave