CCK Doc Koontz Build

[ACL1504]

Yeah, those photos make it clear.  (Copper roofing, expensive, even back in the day.)

dave

Dave,

Agreed, then and now!

Tom

[deemery]

I've had good luck using a 'weathered metallic' like "Burnt Metal" or "Jet Wash" (Vallejo Metallics) to get the look of tin roofing.  (There was an old Model Masters "Jet Wash" color that worked well for that, too.)  Another non-copper look would be "terne metal" https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Terne  And of course, if you go for galvanized metal, you can do some cool rust effects.

dave

[ACL1504]

I've had good luck using a 'weathered metallic' like "Burnt Metal" or "Jet Wash" (Vallejo Metallics) to get the look of tin roofing.  (There was an old Model Masters "Jet Wash" color that worked well for that, too.)  Another non-copper look would be "terne metal" https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Terne  And of course, if you go for galvanized metal, you can do some cool rust effects.

dave

Dave,

Thanks for the suggestion on the weathering. I plan to have a weathered green patina for the copper roof. Here is the roof I did on the FOS Riverbend Church.

I looked for the build thread on the church but it must have not survived the Jimmy D. forum crash back in 1922. I have the build in a PDF file but can't find it anywhere on the forum.

[ACL1504]

Oops, I found it. Here is how I painted the church steeple for the patina. Look for post #116.

https://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=5364.105

Tom

[ACL1504]

I got a little more done on Doc Koontz. I only added the roof ribs. These were laser cut and were part of the kit.

The ribs are self sticking. I decided just use the adhesive on the back and not add glue. When I paint the roof, the paint will also act as a glue.

No need for additional narrative as the photos will tell the story.

[ACL1504]

[ACL1504]

[ACL1504]

For the canopy and angled roof, I wanted a copper patina look to represent an aged copper roof.

Here is how I achieved the look.

I started by painting the canopy roof full strength with Floquil Antique Bronze. Any dark brown color will probably work as well. The Antique Bronze is only used as a base coat.

[ACL1504]

When the paint was dry to the touch, but not cured, I used a Light Patina Pigment, #1131, from Doctor Ben.



I used a soft bristle brush to paint the pigment on the bronze. I then used my finger to rub it in.

[ACL1504]

Back in a few, time to get a cold Diet Pepsi.

[ACL1504]

As many of you know, a paint pigment will stick to pretty much everything. I didn't want green patina on the store walls.

I wrapped the building in blue painter's tape.

[ACL1504]

I've learned to hold a model I'm using this method for over a waste basket. I don't mind the pigment in the can, but it's a bear to get out of the carpet.



I painted the top roof with the Antique Bronze and applied the patina pigment in the same way I described above.

[ACL1504]

Finished the roof! 



Blue tape removed.

[ACL1504]

Done for today on this.

[deemery]

Very cool technique and result!  The structure looks like it was designed to fit that space.

I notice, though, there's a bit of a color shift on the roof of the new structure, between the photos from the workbench and the photos on the layout.  It might be interesting to get a LightMeter app for your phone and see how much difference there is in color temperature between your workbench and your layout lighting.

dave