Winter Challenge 25-26 - Fiordland Lobster Company - Tellynott Depot

[Michael Hohn]

That looks really nice, Mark.  The cupolas and clerestory add a lot of industrial style.

[elwoodblues]

Mark,

Great tutorial in how you did the roof, the finished result looks great.

[Mark Dalrymple]

That looks really nice, Mark.  The cupolas and clerestory add a lot of industrial style.

Thanks, Michael.

I agree.  I figured they would change things up a lot, but for once I didn't do a full mock-up, so I had my fingers crossed.

Cheers, Mark.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Mark,

Great tutorial in how you did the roof, the finished result looks great.

Thanks, Ron.

I tend to favour pictures and captions for telling my story.  It's just a matter of remembering to take those pictures!

Cheers, Mark.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Hi guys.

Photo 1 - I measured my walls and cut out a base and top piece from 1.5mm styrene.  I will likely cut the centre out of the base to give some access inside.  Either that or make the back removable.


Photo 2 - Here are some of the walls.  It will be quite a tricky assembly, and I'm note quite sure how I will go about it yet.  I have cut out all the openings, with the exception of the high vent on the right front wall.  I have saved this until after painting as the omission of the cladding for the vent will make the wall quite fragile until it is assembled.  The walls were weathered by using Golden titanium buff with splodges of Woodland Scenics stone gray.  I then applied my leather dye and isopropyl and alcohol mix and pressed to dry.  I painted both sides to help alleviate warpage, but with water based products this tends to only help so much, hence the pressing.


Photo 3 - Here are the same walls with their vents and doors in place.


Photo 4 - Here is the last double door for the small tower down on the wharf.  I added door hardware to this one .I still have to add that to the others and tone down the hinges.


More soon, cheers, Mark.

[PRR Modeler]

Very nice Mark. Would using strip wood on the inside for a gluing surface and bracing work?

[Larry C]

Mark really nice work. I agree with Curt, bracing could go a long ways with assembly.

[Jerry]

Mark just outstanding work all around.

Jerry

[Mark Dalrymple]

Very nice Mark. Would using strip wood on the inside for a gluing surface and bracing work?

Mark really nice work. I agree with Curt, bracing could go a long ways with assembly.

Thanks, Curt and Larry.

What I mean is I'm not quite sure what order I will assemble this structure in, not how to go about it.  Once painted I will add the 6x6 corner trim and then start gluing the outer walls to the base and each other.  But it might be worthwhile adding horizontal bracing before assembly for the top styrene section.  That will then give me a flat, level surface to build the tower on top of.  I can then cut the roof around the tower, rather than cutting the tower walls to the pitch of the roof.

Cheers, Mark.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Mark just outstanding work all around.

Jerry

Thanks very much, Jerry.

I might write to Don Tichy and suggest he makes up a sprue of door hardware, runners and perhaps some smaller and different types of hinges.

Cheers, Mark.

[deemery]

Mark just outstanding work all around.

Jerry

Thanks very much, Jerry.

I might write to Don Tichy and suggest he makes up a sprue of door hardware, runners and perhaps some smaller and different types of hinges.

Cheers, Mark.

I've found Don to be very receptive to suggestions.  Even better if you send him detailed pictures/drawings of what should be on that sprue, so he doesn't have to do a lot of research.

dave

[Philip]

Likey! 

[Mark Dalrymple]

Likey! 

Thanks, Philip!

Cheers, Mark.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Hi guys.

Well, time is ticking along and I have a week in Oz for the narrow gauge convention coming up before the challenge finishes, so I best get cracking!

Photo 1 - Here I am putting the front wall together.  The vents are just sitting in position at this stage.  These walls seemed to warp a lot, so I used pretty substantial bracing.  Also, as I used several different types of cladding, I had grain going both horizontally and vertically.  I also needed to brace above and below the two full length vents.


Photo 2 - Here we are looking at the front wall from the back.  You can see what I mean about the bracing!  I also needed to join the seams.  I have added horizontal bracing through the mid section for the rectangular styrene strengthener.  I'd call it a floor, but it is not going in at floor height.  I've also braced the rakes for the roofing.  Usually, I keep these bracing pieces 1.5mm down from the top and put 1.5mm styrene on top, within the walls, for a sub roof.  But those cladding pieces were wanting to warp so badly that I deemed it necessary to brace right to the top.


Photo 3 - I started by gluing the back wall and smaller side wall to the base.  I did this on a piece of glass with grease proof paper on top to keep things straight and true and to not glue the the structure to my cutting mat!  Again, you can see the short sections of beefy horizontal bracing going right to the tower extremities and the corner bracing glued in between.  Also notice the horizontal bracing for the mid floor.


Photo 4 - At this stage I decided to glue in the mid floor piece of 1.5mm styrene for added strength and stability.  It would not have been possible to get this piece in later.  As it was, I had to kind of thread it in at an angle to get it under the gable bracing.  I tried to take a photo of this, but was short by one hand!  These are the sort of order problems I allure to when talking about not knowing how I will go about a project.  With complicated scratchbuilding there is always a fair amount of problem solving to be done along the way.  You can see I have cut out all the notches for the various pieces of bracing that will be in the way.


Photo 5 - A view from above.  I have also added a piece of styrene to the the left wall (right when viewed from the back).  It is 1.5mm shorter than the outer walls, as it will sit on top of the styrene base.


Photo 6 - Small issues arise along the way.  Here, I noticed that the right hand wall was slightly longer than the base.  I used CA to glue on a scrap of styrene to the base and added a .5mm shim at left. 


More soon, cheers, Mark.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Continuing...

Photo 7 - Here we see the base trimmed to the right size.  I find it much easier to add a substantial piece, let the CA cure properly, and then trim, than trying to find the right size shims.  The smaller shims are also far more difficult to handle.


Photo 8 - Going back a bit...  I was worried about the structural integrity of cutting the slot out for this vent near the soffit, so I opted to cut and chisel out a rebate.


Photo 9 - A close up of my painting.  After weathering, I use my trusty long bristled brush to add paint under the laps on the weatherboard, kind of bouncing the brush along to create a random, uneven appearance.  This is where the paint stays on the longest in the prototype, as it has some protection from the driving rain and weather.  I then use an inside out gym sock to dry dab on more paint.  The dry dabbing does not get paint into those crevices, and so without using a fine brush to apply paint there, I find the appearance very jarring and unnatural, especially when using white.


Photo 10 - Here is the wall mocked up with doors and vents.


Photo 11 - With the vertical siding I use the fine brush to apply paint in the crevices between the boards.  Those long bristles hold quite a lot of paint, and so if watered down a bit, it flows for some time before reloading is necessary.


Photo 12 - Here is the vertical cladding after dry dabbing.  Paint colours are Josonja's antique green and Folk Art ivory white.


More soon, cheers, Mark.