Winter Challenge 25-26 - Fiordland Lobster Company - Tellynott Depot

[deemery]

Mark,

Very fine work.  Excellent recovery on the mistake.  Complex structures present a multitude of opportunities for error. 

Mike

Thanks, Mike.

They do, indeed!  Its not just us modellers.  Over they years I have seen multitudes of manufacturing errors in the building world.  Frames and trusses that needed to be cut down or replaced.  Hours of chasing measurements around foundation boxing trying to find why things aren't working out, only to finally find it is an error in the diagonal on the plan, or they have allowed for brick cladding rather than timber.  Its good to remember these things when you're swearing at yourself for being an idiot...

Cheers, Mark.

There's a prototype for everything (including errors!)

dave

[Mark Dalrymple]

Hi guys.

Photo 1 - Next up was the walkover.  This houses a conveyor belt which transports products across to the Walthers kitbash.  I made up a cardboard template and then marked and cut out 6 interior bracing pieces from 1.5mm styrene.  I also made up a base.


Photo 2 - These were then assembled.  I cut rectangular pieces to hold the bracing pieces plumb and also to act as a ridge line.  I filed the ridge to a peak.  You can see I also cut notches higher up on the sides of the bracing pieces (before installation).  These are to allow for horizontal bracing stripwood to run along near the top of the side walls.


Photo 3 - Here is the walkover in position.  I used 12x12 bracing to check the height was consistent.


Photo 4 - Here I am setting up the tower.


Photo 5 - Here is the interior of the tower.  You can see I made up two square styrene pieces to keep everything straight, true and square, along with a lot of bracing.


More soon, cheers, Mark.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Continuing...

Photo 6 - Here I am attaching 12x12's for the roof supports.  I usually use 1.5mm styrene and put bracing up the rakes 1.5mm below the top of the cladding to allow for the thickness of the styrene, but because of the major cladding warping, and deeming it necessary to adhere bracing right to the top of the walls, this was my solution.


Photo 7 - Roof bracing around the tower.


Photo 8 - I cut out sub-roofing from black card.  I always think this makes the single biggest difference to the appearance of a model in progress.  This is why I try to always add roofing to my mockups.  We view so much of our modelling from above that I think it is too much of an important element to leave off when trying to visualise how a scene will look.  In this photo you can also see the beams I made up by splicing together some bridge girders.


Photo 9 - A view from the other side.  I gave the main structure 18" soffits while keeping the tower, walkover and front addition to 10" soffits.  These proportions looked right to me.  Sub-roofs are just sitting in position at the moment.  I cut the small piece which roofs the triangle of the tower off the main walkover piece at the ridge line and then spliced another piece on with 10" soffits.  I also added a piece of 12x12 to the underside of the slanted tower roof so it sits in the correct position (it kept sliding off).


More soon, cheers, Mark.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Mark just getting caught up here.

That is some really outstanding work your producing here.
A real pleasure following along.

Jerry

Thanks so much, Jerry.  It is very kind of you to say so.

Please note, I was half way through my next update when we had a power outage for several hours.  Hence, there is now another two posts for you to catch up on!

Cheers, Mark.

[Mark Dalrymple]

There's a prototype for everything (including errors!)

Absolutely, Dave!

[PRR Modeler]

Outstanding scratch building Mark. I might of missed it but what isvthe purpose of the tower?

[elwoodblues]

Mark,

I had a lot of catching up to do, you have made a lot of progress since my last visit.  The building look great and is interesting with all the angles it has.  I also found it fascinating how you use styrene bracing within the wood building construction.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Outstanding scratch building Mark. I might of missed it but what isvthe purpose of the tower?

Thanks, Curt!

I have little information, just an image, that I am working from.  My guess would be it houses a vertical elevator that would transport the catch up to the second floor where it would then be transferred onto the horizontal elevator.  The top of the tower would house the elevator workings.  If anyone has further information on this, please let me know.

Cheers, Mark.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Mark,

I had a lot of catching up to do, you have made a lot of progress since my last visit.  The building look great and is interesting with all the angles it has.  I also found it fascinating how you use styrene bracing within the wood building construction.

Thank you, Ron.

I use styrene a lot in my scratchbuilding and kitbashing, regardless of the medium I am using - resin, plastic, wood, plaster.  I like working with it and my methods add a lot of structural integrity to my builds.  Buying it in large sheets as I do also makes it inexpensive (less than $20US for a 4.5'x2.5' sheet of 16th" thick).

Cheers, Mark.

Cheers, Mark.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Hi guys.

Photo 1 - I place a piece of card against the slope of the roof section and mark the vertical wall and roof pitch.  I then take this piece of card to my cutting mat, cut out the pencil marks and cut a square cut off the vertical wall cut.  The result is the piece of card in my chopper.  This is the rake of the roof section.  The cut against the stock of the chopper is parallel with the wall base.  Rafter sticks can then be put against this rake and the chopper will provide plumb cuts for rafter tails.  By adjusting the stop, rafter tails of the correct length can be cut.  Simply cut one, check its fit, and adjust the stop as necessary.


Photo 2 - Here is my simple jig for cutting fly rafters.  The plumb cut line is marked at right crossing the pitch line and I simply measure the desired length and mark this at the other end of the pitch line.  Once the fly rafter is put in position, a single edged razor blade is used to cut the second plumb cut.


Photo 3 - After measuring and cutting out my roof pieces and checking these for fit, I hold them in place and use a 0.5mm clutch pencil to mark the intersection of the top of the wall and the underside of the roof on the underside of the roof piece.  I then divide the length into appropriate rafter spacings and mark with a pencil.  I always feel rafters closer together look better on a model.  I went for 18" spacings here.  3' is probably more common.  The tiny rafter tails have their top edges dipped in a pool of canopy glue, the excess wiped off and then are placed in position with the roof card upside down on my workbench.  I use tweezers for this job.  I place the rafter tails with their pointed ends at the inside of the pencil mark.  The fly rafters should go on the roof card extremity.  In the prototype, these pieces are supported by purlins and outriggers, and in return, support the extremity of the roof.  Placing them against the side of the cladding is pointless, as the wall to which the cladding is fixed is supporting the roof.  They are, however, very necessary at the roof's extremities, especially with larger soffits.  Fascia is often attached to the fly rafters.


Photo 4 - The roof card is put in position, and all those pecky rafter tails should be perfect!


Photo 5 - I zipped outside and took a photo of our barn to help clarify (hopefully).  Most buildings have soffits nailed to the underside of the timber and so all this isn't usually seen.  Our barn is a little unusual in that the fly rafters are thicker than the fascia.  I can only assume they changed their minds on what size fascia to use half way through the build.  You can clearly see the out riggers (at 90 degrees to the fascia and fly rafters), and above these are 3x2" purlins.  The fascia running along parallel with the flat wall hides all those rafter tails.  In our models we tend to leave these pieces off, as it looks better.  If doing so it only makes sense to me that we also leave off the gable fascia.  The timber running up the gable wall is cut between the outriggers, which are attached to the first truss or rafter into the structure.  The gable wall is kept lower then the rafters to allow these our riggers to rest on the top plate of the gable wall and give good support to the fly rafters.  Wow!  That was really quite hard to explain!


More soon, cheers, Mark.

[PRR Modeler]

Nice job on the roof and eaves.

[Jerry]

Mark great work.  And a nice little tutorial on how to make them.

Jerry

[Mark Dalrymple]

Nice job on the roof and eaves.

Thanks, Curt.

Cheers, Mark.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Mark great work.  And a nice little tutorial on how to make them.

Jerry

Thanks, Jerry.

Rafter tails are all done now...

Cheers, Mark.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Hi guys.

Photo 1 - I decided to roof the walkover with Campbell's corrugated iron.  I like this product as it is close to scale thickness and the undulations are spaced correctly.  I start by cutting the closest length roofing material I have down to the correct length for my model.  In this case I didn't need to do any cutting, as the 8' strip was just right.  I then cut each length into three shorter lengths and set up a simple jig using painters tape.  I set up a piece at each end of the iron and mark the nail rows for fixing onto the purlins on the tape.  I space these evenly at whatever works out closest to 3' centres.  I tape a strip of iron to the cutting mat so that the bottom is just below the bottom row of nails.  I vary the height of each piece slightly.  This is so that when attaching the individual pieces of iron, when I line up the nail rows, the length of each piece of iron will change slightly, giving a nice random appearance.  You need to choose your pieces carefully from the various piles to achieve this effect.  I then us a blunt, fine pointed compass to put indentations along these nail lines, every second undulation.  You have to get the pressure just right - enough to create a small dimple on the opposite side of the iron, but not so much as to pierce the iron.  I don't put nails at the top of the strip, as these will either be covered by the next piece of iron above, or by a flashing.  Once I have added nail rows to a few 1/3 length strips, I score and snap (by wiggling back and forward) the strip into individual pieces.  I make these around 10-11mm wide, which scales out to around 3'.  I added some square lines to the sub roof to help keep things in alignment.  I apply double sided tape to the sub roof and start attaching the corrugated iron pieces.  These now need to be flipped so that the undulations are up to resemble lead headed nails.  If the gaps between laps show up too much, or anything appears loose, I apply a drop of CA to some painters tape and then cut a small triangle of double sided tape backing.  I run the pointy end of the backing through the drop of CA and then run this under the upper of the two corrugated iron pieces.  I then hold the upper piece down with my 6" steel rule end for around 30 seconds. 


Photo 2 - Here is the right side of the roof finished.  I cut down a small strip of iron to use over the longer section of roofing.


Photo 3 - A close up from the other side.  I still have to add the fly rafters to the side of this longer roof section (bottom of the tower) but will wait until the corrugated iron is painted.  It is important to run the double sided tape in a piece that can be folded over the top of the ridge, thus leaving double sided tape along the top of the ridgeline.  It is also important to leave the roofing iron down a fraction from the top of the ridge, to leave room for the 1.2mm styrene rod that will make up the 'spine' of the ridge capping to adhere to the double sided tape on the ridge.


Photo 4 - A view from the side.


Photo 5 - I did most of this roofing at the dog show.  I made up this simple extruded foam holder which fitted snuggly into a chilly bin for damage free transport.  I am also finding it useful for working on the structure at home on my work bench, especially as it is now getting quite fragile.


Photo 6 - A view of the extruded foam 'holder' from the other side.


More soon, cheers, Mark.