Using a 3D printer to make the building 'Shell'

[Yannis]

Jim excellent work!!!! Following with interest!

Of course i ll keep you posted on the prints. So far I am using the fdm printer for walls, and i use support columns on the inside in some cases. I ll also try epoxy (stronger) and have used in the past some types of plastic glue.

[Jim Donovan]

Jim that really looks great!!!

Jerry

Thanks! I should have a picture with windows in place within a week. I just finished printing them and painting them now need to put the glass in place.

Jim

[Jim Donovan]

Jim, congratulations on a successful print and getting it right the first time.

Thanks Rick;

Frankly I think I got a little lucky since it was just upright. I took the chance since you won't see the shell when complete and any slight imperfection I could live with.Turned out almost perfect for my needs.

Jim

[Jim Donovan]

Jim excellent work!!!! Following with interest!

Of course i ll keep you posted on the prints. So far I am using the fdm printer for walls, and i use support columns on the inside in some cases. I ll also try epoxy (stronger) and have used in the past some types of plastic glue.

Very interested in seeing the FDM walls, I still have not taken the time to get mine dialed in.

Jim

[Philip]

Amazing!  You have those dialed in!

[deemery]

Did you clean the 3D substructure first, before applying the double-stick tape?  Any adhesion problems?

dave

[Jim Donovan]

Amazing!  You have those dialed in!

Thanks Philip;

I guess you do it enough things get easier, mostly.

Jim

[Jim Donovan]

Did you clean the 3D substructure first, before applying the double-stick tape?  Any adhesion problems?

dave

Hi Dave;

After I make the initial structure it gets washed in an alcohol bath, small items like windows or doors go into an automatic wash and UV station I have. Bigger items like this building shell I wash in a bin loaded with 99% Isopropyl Alcohol, The bin is 14 x14 and has a sealed cover so the alcohol does not evaporate. Once dry and UV cure finished I cleaned up any burrs left and roughed up the walls on the outside to improve the 'bite' for the tape, just a light sanding. The tape held up well considering I ended up putting 8 air brush layers altogether on the wood. I changed the color midway through painting. I ended up having to put touches of epoxy on the upper section near the roof line the rest stayed glued tight. I was actually a little surprised it held up so well.

Jim

[Jim Donovan]

The Storage and Supply Building is coming along. The wood walls had the nail hole treatment on 3 foot centers, the wood siding had the 3M 465 tape applied to its backside and 'This Side Up' written on it to make sure I cut the clapboard in the proper direction. I sent a cut file to the little laser engraver I have from the CAD drawings previously made for the 3D printer. The laser uses an old Mac Laptop to operate so I can just grab the file from the internet. The 'shell' sides were roughed up a little with medium sandpaper to help ensure a good bite for the tape and I made sure any burrs were removed. Once cut the sides were attached, weight put on the sides for an hour each to ensure a good bond. Since I was still worried about the wood staying put I airbrushed light coats building up to the color I wanted. The wife said the color was terrible soooo I changed colors and did it again. I did have some small lifting of wood up near the roof line so put epoxy glue underneigh the area, weighted it until dry and problem fixed. Painted 3/32 x 3/32 strip wood ( Vallejo flat green) was placed in the corners. I ended up using Valajo Green Gray on the siding. When airbrushing I have settled on just using Vallejo. There are a lot of really good airbrush paints out there but each has its own quirks. By staying with one brand I only need to remember one set of quirks.

Next up is windows and doors which is how you see the structure as it is right now. All the windows are tilt style since pickle factories were very fragrant. I designed them based on photos of real factory windows and 3D printed them. I use real slip cover microscope slide glass in almost all my structures and have developed a 'pocket' system enabling me to slide the cut glass into the window to hold it in place. The slit opening on the one end of the window frame that allows the glass to slide into place is then dabbed with canopy glue locking everything. I can cut and place about 10-12 windows an hour these days. I will glue the windows in place either open or closed as needed. The warehouse doors will be a sliding double door arrangement and will be able to manually move open or closed. I designed and printed the track system for the doors with the upper and lower tracks attached to the inside door frame. You can see them in the last photo showing the inside of the shell. 

So here are a couple of photos. The one end has all windows in place. The glass is very clear in this photo so you'll need to zoom in to see the reflection. The side photo shows the warehouse framing and the third photo shows the inside. I have a lot more windows to make and install then on to the doors. I'm thinking Dutch doors just because I like them.

Jim

[Jerry]

This is really turning out nice.
Great coloring and the windows are perfect.

Jerry

[friscomike]

Howdy Jim, the S&S building is looking terrific.  What type of roofing do you plan to use?  Have fun, mike

[Zephyrus52246]

Cool idea how you make the windows so the glass fits into them.  They look great as does the whole structure. 

Jeff