Building a Kitwood Hill Models 45ft Gallows Turntable

Started by elwoodblues, July 22, 2026, 09:16:34 PM

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elwoodblues

Part 11 - The Gallows

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Each side of the gallows is made up of 4 parts.



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The Kit comes with a jig for making the gallow frame but it really wasn't needed as the pieces fit together flawlessly.



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At the bottom of each post that meets the bridge there is a "plate".  I assumed that there would be a metal piece on the real thing so I painted them light rust (Vallejo Panzer Aces 301).



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The first gallow frame installed.



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The second gallow frame installed
Ron Newby
General Manager
Clearwater Valley Railroad Co.
www.cvry.ca

elwoodblues

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Gluing the cross members at the top of the gallows in place.



KHM-GT-082.jpg

this is the result of round 2 of gluing the cross members in place.  :o  

Thank god wood glue takes some time to set up.  I was looking at my handy work when I realized that something didn't look right so I took some measurements at the top and bottom were not the same.  Looking at the instructions I noticed the the top crossbeams extended past the gallow frames.  So I pried the crossbeams apart and tried again.  I forgot to take pictures of round 2, probably because I was mad at myself for not checking more carefully.



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A close-up of the top of the gallows.

Next up, installing the stays.
Ron Newby
General Manager
Clearwater Valley Railroad Co.
www.cvry.ca

Philip

Looking Great Ron!

For the stays I used stretchy black cord. It still have elasticity after 7 years. Was easier and safer for my clumsy hands. I know when you paint that cord the stretchy-ness is gone in no time.  Just a thought.

Philip


elwoodblues

Quote from: Philip on Today at 10:32:03 AMLooking Great Ron!

For the stays I used stretchy black cord. It still have elasticity after 7 years. Was easier and safer for my clumsy hands. I know when you paint that cord the stretchy-ness is gone in no time.  Just a thought.

Philip


Philip,

Funny you should mention that, I was thinking the same thing, I have black E-Z-LIne that I can use.  I think I'll try the wire that comes with the kit first.  If I have issues, I have a plan B.  ;D
Ron Newby
General Manager
Clearwater Valley Railroad Co.
www.cvry.ca

deemery

Simon (Kitwood Hills owner/designer) and I swapped messages on the wires.  I've always had problems getting precise bends in wires (e.g. truss rods).

dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

elwoodblues

Quote from: deemery on Today at 11:06:05 AMSimon (Kitwood Hills owner/designer) and I swapped messages on the wires.  I've always had problems getting precise bends in wires (e.g. truss rods).

dave
Dave, the precise bends is what worries me as there are no bend diagrams to get the precise bends which means that they need to be done by eye.  :o  I'm going to try it but if it turns out to be too difficult I'll use Philips method.
Ron Newby
General Manager
Clearwater Valley Railroad Co.
www.cvry.ca

deemery

The related concern is drilling the diagonal hole through the outside tie/stringer for the guy wire:
Screenshot 2026-08-01 at 11.57.33.jpg

(I'm enjoying reliving my build experience through your posts, Ron!)

dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

Jerry

"And in the end, it's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years." A. Lincoln

PRR Modeler

I agree with Jerry. Outstanding. Good luck with the wire.
Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
Freelanced PRR Bellevue Subdivision

elwoodblues

Ron Newby
General Manager
Clearwater Valley Railroad Co.
www.cvry.ca

elwoodblues

Quote from: PRR Modeler on Today at 01:33:11 PMI agree with Jerry. Outstanding. Good luck with the wire.
Thanks Curt.  It turns out that the wire wasn't a problem.  ;D  
Ron Newby
General Manager
Clearwater Valley Railroad Co.
www.cvry.ca

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