Learning my new laser

[Vietnam Seabee]

This is all really great info...

Thanks

[deemery]

I cut a 1" circle (25mm, actually), and took a close-up photo, to see the resolution of the laser running around a curve:

When I run my fingernail around this, I can barely feel the ridges.  

Also, looks like the kerf for the laser on the typical basswood settings is about 0.15mm.  

dave

[Vietnam Seabee]

Dave...will your lazer be able to do "embossing"..brick and stone patterns?

terry

[deemery]

Dave...will your lazer be able to do "embossing"..brick and stone patterns?

terry

Mebbe...  Technically, I'm sure it can be done.  

I'm not sure how Jimmy Simmons does his amazing brick relief.  But I'm sure I could emboss a texture, if I found a good one.  

dave

[Bernd]

This may answer your question.

The two main laser-engraving methods are:

Raster engraving – The laser moves back and forth line by line, like a printer, removing material to create images, text, and shaded designs. It's best for photographs and filled artwork.

Vector engraving – The laser follows paths defined by lines and curves, tracing the design directly. It's best for outlines, lettering, and precise cuts or marks.

I believe he probably uses raster engraving.

Bernd

[deemery]

This may answer your question.

The two main laser-engraving methods are:

Raster engraving – The laser moves back and forth line by line, like a printer, removing material to create images, text, and shaded designs. It's best for photographs and filled artwork.

Vector engraving – The laser follows paths defined by lines and curves, tracing the design directly. It's best for outlines, lettering, and precise cuts or marks.

I believe he probably uses raster engraving.

Bernd

I suspect that's right.  I wonder how long it takes his laser to do one of those wall panels, with the raster brick relief.  For me, processing time is not a business constraint, but it is time I would need to spend in the room with the laser while it does its thing.

dave

[Bernd]

I suspect that's right.  I wonder how long it takes his laser to do one of those wall panels, with the raster brick relief.  For me, processing time is not a business constraint, but it is time I would need to spend in the room with the laser while it does its thing.

dave

I've seen an industrial raster laser work. It doesn't take very long. The only thing that moves are the mirrors that direct the laser beam.

Bernd

[Keep It Rusty]

Raster engraves like brick textures take time, for sure. They are definitely a consideration for a manufacturer, which is why I opted to 3D print my brick walls.

I've never seen the mirrors on a laser move, though. The 2 X and Y axis mirrors are typically locked in place along the rails. The gantry and laser head move, of course.

[deemery]

An update on my progress.  With much help from online sources, I now have the XTool S1 working as expected with Lightburn.  There were a couple points to learn (1) how to configure Lightburn for the S1.  (2) then how to use the new configuration.    The key point there was figuring out how to focus the laser.  I have to do this each time I turn the machine on, or if I change materials in the machine.  Then (3) adjusting the laser definition in Lightburn for the offset between where the crosshairs point and the laser actually burns.  (The crosshairs are a separate low power laser.  So there's "space" between where the crosshair laser lands, and where the high power laser starts to burn.  The idea of handling this 'offset' is so I can position the crosshairs, press "burn", and the cutting/engraving actually starts at the location marked by the crosshairs.)  (4) determining the width of the laser kerf.  Turns out with most diode lasers, the cutting shape is not round or square, but actually oblong/a rectangle.  That's because an LED laser has multiple lasers ganged together to produce the power output.  On my laser, the kerf seems to range between .15mm and .2mm.  Fortunately, that's so small I won't have to worry about it.

Now I'm off to (5), learning settings for each material.  I got a great head-start from a guy over at MRH's forums who has a different brand 10w laser.  My primary target is 1/16 basswood, both plywood and sheet (including 1/16 thickness scribed siding, clapboard siding, board and batten siding, etc.  Each material needs at least 2 different settings, one for cutting, and the other for scribing. 

The shop list now includes the laser, the smoke filter, a computer, and software.  The XTool 'Studio' application is quite capable, I could do everything I want using only that.  But Lightburn has some really nice features, and doesn't tie me to XTool if I get a new machine.  I'm using a Mac which is USB-C only.  The XTool works fine with a USB-C to USB-C cable, except when I need to do firmware updates.  There I need to use the XTool provided USB-C to USB-A cable and a USB-A to USB-C adapter.  For both cables and adapters, I use the Anker brand.  High quality, and I got good service the one time a cable went bad.  XTool provides a nice plastic case for extra screws, the Allen wrench used for assembling the machine, etc.  I put a USB-A to USB-C adapter in that box, and wrapped the XTool USB-C to USB-A cable around that box. 

In addition, I have a fire extinguisher nearby, laser safety glasses (not needed with an enclosed laser, but still good to have), a cheap digital caliper that shows both mm and inch, and a metal ruler, same way.  Both Lightburn and XTool Studio support working in metric or imperial, but I've found it's really important to just stay with metric.  I've gotten confused at times with laser settings, remembering that speed is mm/second or inch/minute.  A sharp pencil, and paper for notes, is a good idea.  I also have a 4 socket extension cord, for laser power, filter power, laptop power, and workshop light over the laser table.

The laser sits on a long table, so I have space to organize stock for cutting on one side, and resulting parts on the other.  I've gotten various storage containers for letter/Metric A4 paper stock, 12"x12" stock, and the hardest to find, a storage container that holds 12"x24" stock.  You want something that seals well with a perfectly flat bottom.  The primary reason for these containers is to minimize warp. 

It seems that I use up a half page/6"x12" of stock for tests to determine settings.  I'm still thinking through the test settings process. 

dave