John Mancuso's C-19 Narrow Gauge 2-8-0

[S&S RR]

I'm enjoying the the thread - great work!

[ACL1504]

Greg DeMayo wants this loco when I go to meet the big Engineer in the sky!

Tell L'il Greggy not to pull his tighty whiteys too tight!
You're just about to start the fun part of life!!! 

Gman,

Good to see you this morning. I wonder why Greg keeps asking me how I feel! 

Tom

[ACL1504]

Tom,
Wonderful group of locomotives, definitely the work of a professional!!!  John's locomotive already looks great, really looking forward to seeing the finished product!

Jerry,

Thank you, much appreciated. I'll have more to add this afternoon and it turned out better than I thought.

Tom

[ACL1504]

Mmmmm, drooolllll!! Very nice Tom.

Dustin,

Thanks very much. I appreciate you stopping by! I'll be adding to the thread this afternoon.

Tom

[ACL1504]

I think he's just torturing me now 


John

John,

The loco is finished and I'll give you a call this afternoon. I think I've tortured you enough by keeping the loco for a month+.

Tom

[ACL1504]

I'm enjoying the the thread - great work!

John,


Thank you, much appreciated. This has been a fun project.

Tom

[ACL1504]

One thing I neglected to mention is that I personally believe that weathering has scale. What I mean by this is that I've found in the past a certain degree of weathering may look perfect for an O scale loco but the same weathering on a smaller HOn3 loco won't look as natural and may be overpowering. You can put a lot of rust coloring on a O scale loco and yet it looks very bad on the HOn3 loco.

I guess a picture is worth a thousand words. On Cuse's loco, I started the weatheirng process in reverse of what I normally do for HO locos. I started by using pastel chalks and then moved to the Floquil spray colors. I'll cover the Floquil in a later post on this thread.

The reason I did this is that the pastel chalks can be washed off/cleaned off and the spray can't unless you repaint the loco. I started by using a combination of three rust colors. Raw Sienna, Burnt Umber and Rust. These all came in a pack from Micro Mart. After I applied the "rust" colors I applied various shades of gray from light to dark. The grays were used on the areas of the loco that would gather dust and raod grime. The rusts were applied to the areas where the rust would form on the loco. Without naming all the loco parts I'll just show you in pictures with maybe a few comments.

In the next few photos you can see where I applied some rust color to the loco boiler, running boards, steam chest and front pilot.





On the tender I applied some rust and grays.





Remember, this is just the beginning of the weathering process. At this point don't worry about what it looks like. It will be more subtle when finished.

Continued in a few.

[ACL1504]

I then used the light gray chalks and applied it to areas of the boiler and tender where water may be leaking. On the boiler this would be the steam dome, steam generator and various pipings.



I then applied a heavier coat of rust colors to the boiler and tender.



Continued in a few.

[ACL1504]

Here you can see I applied the same weathering to the other side and added more rust and grays to the left side around the pumps and piping.







Continued in a few.

[ACL1504]

To be continued.

[ACL1504]

When satisfied with the chalk dusting I moved to the Floquil weathering aspect of the process.

I used a special mix of Flouil paints for my grime, dust, dirt and etc. I use Floquils Grime, Mud and Aged Concrete. Yes, I said Aged Concrete. The concrete has a slight light mud look; however the Grime is the main color used.



In a separate bottle, I mix 7 parts of Grime, 1 part Mud and 2 parts Aged Concrete. I used a small pipette (glass tube) for the "parts" mix and by part I mean only one squeeze of the black suction cup. I used the small one on the right, not the small one on the left. Although, you can use the one on the left if you want to make a lot of this mix, just use the formula mentioned above.



And, here is the color mix I used for Cuse's loco with respect to the road grime, dirt, etc on the loco.



Gman, was correct in that it does look a bit yellow in the photo. But have no worries John, the loco won't be yellow - I hope!

Continued in a few.

[ACL1504]

For my spray gun I use an old 40+ year old Binks sprayer. I have upgraded to a new compressor to get better control of the air pressure. It looks new because I take care of my tools of the trade.



I have three of this type sprayer head. This one has a very small hole for the paint and air and perfect for this job. The other two have larger holes, one larger than the next.

Prior to painting anything, I always test the spray volume on a piece of cardboard or whatever I have handy. I do this as I want to know EXACTLY what is coming out and how much of it is spraying on the model. I said always and I mean it. The last thing you want is a big blob of paint coming out on a prized model or better yet, someone else's prized model like this one. In this case I used a small piece of Masonite/hardboard from the old layout for the testing.

NOTE:  The main reason I do this as I take this time to get the spray adjusted so I know how it will spray on the model. In the following picture you can see how I've adjusted/tested the spray flow to my specific need. In this case, I adjusted the spray to almost a "ghost mist" as seen on the extreme right side of the Masonite.

Remember this is a small loco and a little weathering will go a long way!



The next photo is like a forced perspective but it isn't meant to be. I'm just trying to show that I hold the spray gun about 8" to 12" from the model when the paint is applied.



Thanks to all following. I'll be showing the rest of the weathering process tomorrow evening.

[gnatshop]

Gman, was correct in that it does look a bit yellow in the photo. But have no worries John, the loco won't be yellow - I hope!

Glad that you relieved John's mind - I was beginnin' to hear him singin' 'Yellow Locomotive, Yellow Locomotive'  to the
tune of The Beatle's Yellow Submarine - that wasn't fun listenin' to what he called 'singin'!! 

[S&S RR]

For my spray gun I use an old 40+ year old Binks sprayer. I have upgraded to a new compressor to get better control of the air pressure. It looks new because I take care of my tools of the trade.



I have three of this type sprayer head. This one has a very small hole for the paint and air and perfect for this job. The other two have larger holes, one larger than the next.

Prior to painting anything, I always test the spray volume on a piece of cardboard or whatever I have handy. I do this as I want to know EXACTLY what is coming out and how much of it is spraying on the model. I said always and I mean it. The last thing you want is a big blob of paint coming out on a prized model or better yet, someone else's prized model like this one. In this case I used a small piece of Masonite/hardboard from the old layout for the testing.

NOTE:  The main reason I do this as I take this time to get the spray adjusted so I know how it will spray on the model. In the following picture you can see how I've adjusted/tested the spray flow to my specific need. In this case, I adjusted the spray to almost a "ghost mist" as seen on the extreme right side of the Masonite.

Remember this is a small loco and a little weathering will go a long way!



The next photo is like a forced perspective but it isn't meant to be. I'm just trying to show that I hold the spray gun about 8" to 12" from the model when the paint is applied.



Thanks to all following. I'll be showing the rest of the weathering process tomorrow evening.

Tom

The old tools are very often the best tools.  I use the tools from my Dad's tool box more often than the new stuff in mine. Enjoying the thread.

[cuse]

 


Looks great, excellent info as well.


Thanks Tom

John