South River Modelworks 370 - Tucker and Cook Cotton Yarn Mil

[NEMMRRC]

Awesome job on that  Jaime,  your making me want to spend money, but I have to control myself until my skill level gets up as high as you guys.
  Sam

Your skill level will improve as you build kits like this. It is not hard. It is time consuming and tedious though. But it is not hard.

The whole build progresses in small manageable chunks.

Give it a try.

Jaime

[Mike Engler]

Every thing looking superb, and I'm sure that's why you'll be first to get Doug's new "Oyster Hill". I even now like the turquoise- I guess it grows on you.


I would ditch the "puke green" on the tower roof. If the roof is rolled roofing or tarpaper, i think something like the Folk Art Mystic Green already mentioned, or something like these two examples. However if it is a metal roof, an "aged copper" would be the best. Michael has several products and craft paint for doing that.

[NEMMRRC]

Everyone's a critic.

 

Jaime

[oldbloodhound]

After you get that tower roof weathered I think it will look fine...just like aged copper.  I like it.

[Jerry]

A fine job on that main building Jaime.

Really looking forward to your next installment.

Jerry

[NEMMRRC]

Howdy.

Here comes the link.

The instructions call the next structure "the link." This is because this structure links the main building to the picking house. It is essentially a covered walkway of sorts.

Building the link is straight forward. There are no new techniques used here. Well, sort of... There are rafter tails and trim on the roof. But other than that everything required to build the link has already been discussed.

So let's get going.

Here is all the materials (except rolled roofing) needed to build the link:



Did you see that?!

The roof card has the rafter tail positions lasered on. And, the crease down the middle of the roof is already scored by the laser.



Pretty nifty.

You surely noticed that I already painted the walls above. They get the same treatment as the walls on the main building:
- india ink stain the walls
- diluted white paint
- nail and board markings
- windows

Once the walls are glued together one adds the roof card and then the tar paper rolled roofing.

The rafter tails are pretty straight forward and are done according to this guide.



One new wrinkle introduced to the mix is the trim along the edge of the roof card (rake and eave) as seen above in the illustration that guides the modeler on how to do the rafter tails. This is my second South River kit and this roof trim seems to be standard practice for South River kits. I like it.

Here is how it all ended up.









The instructions say to wait before gluing the link to the main building. You see, there is a fire escape that goes above the link and against the building so it is necessary to build the fire escape first and then locate them both on the building so everything matches together.

Coming up - the fire escape.

Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com

[chooch41]

Great job Jaime. Enjoying this build.......


Brad

[NEMMRRC]

Great job Jaime. Enjoying this build.......


Brad

Thanks, Brad.


What are you currently working on?


Jaime

[MAP]

Looking great Jaime!  Thanks again for all of the photos & commentary about the build.

[jlgrove]

...as usual, Jaime is doing a dandy job on this one...thanks for the pics and info....

[Dave K.]

👍👍👍

[NEMMRRC]

Howdy.

Thanks for following along, folks.

Here comes the fire escape.

This whole little structure is contained in a sheet of photo-etched brass. Nice! Wait, brass gets soldered. Oh...

The instructions suggest "the soldering-impaired" glue the structure using CA glue instead of soldering as the instruction from Sheepscot Scale Products call for. You see, the fire escape is the same used in an earlier South River kit (Cambridge Crossing). The fire escape kit was designed by George Barrett of Sheepscot Scale Products.

I chose to CA glue my fire escape. In retrospect I should have soldered it.

First step is to cut out the parts from the etched brass sheet. I used a hobby knife with a new #11 blade. In the instructions the photos show South River cutting out the parts with a scalpel.





I used a sanding stick (emory board) to knock back the nub left behind after cutting out the parts.



With the aid of needle nose pliers I bent the parts as called for in the instructions.



Don't be stupid like me and try to bend the brass parts with your pointy tweezers. It hurts when you stab your finger with pointy tweezers. It hurts a lot.

Next one bends back each of the steps/rungs on the fire escape.





The instructions say for one to spray paint the whole structure with flat black spray paint. I wanted to see if I could blacken the whole thing first with A-West Blacken It.



I failed miserably. The shiny coating on the brass kept the Blacken It from doing any good. The Blacken It puddled up on the brass and when it evaporated it left a faint black stain behind. I gave up and opted to spray paint the whole thing later.

Next step is to glue the landings to the stairs.



I test fit the structure as I went along. To do so, I laid the entire main building on its side and placed the fire escape on top of that. It was precarious work doing all this.





I added the handrails once I was satisfied with the stairs and landings.

Here is how it all should end up.





Here we see the whole structure ready for paint.



Here is the fire escape painted.



Once the flat black paint was dry I took some rust colored pastel chalks and weathered the fire escape slightly.

And here is the whole affair including the link all glued to the main building.



Perhaps you are wondering if Tucker and Cook's staff will have to take a flying leap off the fire escape in order to get to the ground. No. Because the whole shebang is not glued to a base yet, the instructions suggest waiting until later to glue in the ladder that connects the fire escape to the ground.

As the instructions warned earlier it is most helpful to wait and glue the link to the main building after the fire escape is in place. Notice how the link fits under the fire escape and that calls for custom trimming on the fire escape's supports in order to clear the roof of the link.

I spent 8 hours getting the fire escape built.

When I build Cambridge Crossing from South River I plan to solder that fire escape.

Coming up - the picking house.

Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com

[ACL1504]

Jaime,

Great job on the fire escape.

Tom

[cuse]

Looks really cool, Jaime!


John

[Jerry]

I'll say it again.  Your just doing and excellent job on this build.

Jerry