South River Modelworks 370 - Tucker and Cook Cotton Yarn Mil

[NEMMRRC]

Howdy.

OK. So I'll jump ahead a bit in the effort to answer a few questions.

- The windows will get weathered with alcohol black India ink stain and dry-brushed with sandstone paint (the instructions suggest aged white).
- The windows are glazed with the clear acetate included in the kit.

The instructions direct the modeler to cut strips of the acetate in one dimension of the windows and then use a chopper to cut the other dimension. I did just that.

- First I measured the height of a window and cut a strip of acetate that measurement wide.
- Second I measured the width of the window and set my chopper to that measurement and chopped the acetate strip to that measurement.
- Third I glued the acetate panes to the window castings using plastic cement. You could use canopy glue or white glue for this.



The instructions mention the use of Gallery Glass and Micro Crystal Clear for the glazing. I've tried the Gallery Glass and Canopy Glue for glazing and have not been too crazy about the results. Thus, I went with the acetate included in the kit.

Coming up - the main building's walls... and the 80 windows soon thereafter.

Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com

[NEMMRRC]

Jaime,

Just a follow up on the color. I have found that many of the acrylics pigments have a tendency to be bright straight out of the bottle and then darken overnight. I don't know why, but I have experienced this on many projects. Wait til tomorrow and see if the turquoise has darken. Just thought you might want to know.

Frank / Erieman

That is a good point.

Jaime

[cuse]

Wow...I never thought of using the chopper for knocking out consistent window acetate cuts. Game changer.


I have to say I like the Canopy glue application for windows. So fast, so easy and just hazy enough.


Good one Jaime!


John

[jerryrbeach]

Jaime,
I'll be following along, too.  I'm really looking forward to the smaller additions/outbuildings.  I really like how Bob's smaller structures complement the main building.

[gnatshop]

Jaime's got a much worse problem than trim color!!!

Now that's he's got a SRMW kit under construction, Lisa's gettin' frustated -
"Now, what the chit am I gonna get him for Christmas?"       

[NEMMRRC]

Howdy.

The main building gets built first according to the instructions.

There is a lot of wood on the main building. It all needs to be painted and weathered before gluing all the walls together.

To save some time I'll summarize the process explained in the instructions.

The wall process:
1. Brace the walls with 1/8" square provided in the kit according to the templates provided in the kit. There are also photos in the instruction book to guide the user on this.
2. Stain the wood walls with black India ink and alcohol stain (A&I stain). Weigh down the walls until dry.
3. In order to simulate peeling paint the modelers is to use the rubber cement technique. This is done prior to any paint.
-- a. Apply thin strips of rubber cement to the walls after the A&I is dry. Apply strips where you wish to simulate peeling paint.
-- b. Wait until rubber cement is dry before proceeding.
The rubber cement acts a a resist thus allowing the modeler to expose part of the walls after painting. Where the rubber cement goes is where the peeling paint shows.
4. Apply a thin coat of diluted white paint. The instructions suggest Americana White Wash diluted 20% with water. Apply the paint thinner at the bottom of the walls and thicker at the top of the walls. The thought here is that the walls weather more closer to the ground than they do closer to the roof. Weigh down the walls until dry.
5. When the first coat of white paint is dry the modeler is to use the white paint straight out of the tube and dry brush the walls to even out the colors. Dry brush only areas that need evening out.
6. Make nail markings on the walls. The instructions suggest spacing the nail markings 2 scale feet apart. For a more recent building space the nail markings 16" apart. It seems building practices have changed over time. The method simulates where the clapboards are nailed to wall studs. So the spacing depends on how apart studs would be spaced on the building.
7. Simulate board ends on the walls (where clapboards meet each other). Don't overdo it.
8. Simulate lifted clapboards. Do this by lifting sections of a clapboard. The instructions suggest using a no. 17 chisel blade for this.
9. Simulate replaced clapboards by painting in new clapboards. This is done with undiluted unweathered white paint. Definitely do NOT overdo this step.

Here are some photos to illustrate the process.

Bracing



Rubber cement technique



First coat of white paint



Testing the window castings



I test the window castings fit as I go along. Now is the time to sand the openings if needed. That was not needed here. The window openings on these walls were perfect!!!

Nail markings







I use a Monster Nailer to make nail markings. The instructions suggest using a ponce wheel. I've tried the ponce wheel method and have not been satisfied with the results I get. I like the Monster Nailer better. You could use a fine point like a needle if you don't have a Monster Nailer handy.

Testing the window castings again



Board ends



The finished wall




Coming up - the main building's walls.

Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com

[Dave K.]

Looking good, Jaime. I love the Monster Nailer. I wish Jimmy could get them back in production.

I think the turquoise will look fine after toning-down with inkahol and other weathering.

Great thread, as always. 

[Janbouli]

I already like that turquoise much more now that it's integrated in the walls , the newer planks make it look interesting too.

[EricQuebec]

Very nice start Jaime.
the overview of the wall with nailhole, windows and trim is excellent.
Eric QUébec city

[NEMMRRC]

Howdy.


Silly me. I forgot to add the part about removing the rubber cement to do the peeling paint.


Once all the weathering is done on the wall, take some masking tape and with the sticky side against the wall press the masking tape against the wall and then lift off the masking tape. The tape will pick up the rubber cement off from the wall thus exposing the bare wall and simulating peeling paint.


Later.


Jaime

[Erieman]

Jaime,

Good Morning, I am  following along on your wonderful build. Did the turquoise paint change overnight? Or did you apply some A&I to the windows? The last photo shows a remarked improvement in the window color. I'll be building this SRMW kit after the holidays, so all your help is great. Keep up the fine build.

Frank / Erieman

[NEMMRRC]

Jaime,

Good Morning, I am  following along on your wonderful build. Did the turquoise paint change overnight? Or did you apply some A&I to the windows? The last photo shows a remarked improvement in the window color. I'll be building this SRMW kit after the holidays, so all your help is great. Keep up the fine build.

Frank / Erieman

A little bit of both.

On the trim I didn't mention that I first stained it with the A&I, painted it with the turquoise and then dry brushed it with sandstone paint. I didnt do the A&I on top of the turquoise.

Once I get the building all put together I'll revisit the weathering of the turquoise if it needs it.

I hope others build this kit and share their builds. It is a nice kit.

Jaime

[Erieman]

Jaime,

Good Morning, I am  following along on your wonderful build. Did the turquoise paint change overnight? Or did you apply some A&I to the windows? The last photo shows a remarked improvement in the window color. I'll be building this SRMW kit after the holidays, so all your help is great. Keep up the fine build.

Frank / Erieman

A little bit of both.

On the trim I didn't mention that I first stained it with the A&I, painted it with the turquoise and then dry brushed it with sandstone paint. I didnt do the A&I on top of the turquoise.

Once I get the building all put together I'll revisit the weathering of the turquoise if it needs it.

I hope others build this kit and share their builds. It is a nice kit.

Jaime

Thanks for the update Can you clarify " I didnt do the A&I on top of the turquoise." Do you mean that you did not paint the window frames with the A&I?

Frank / Erieman

[NEMMRRC]

Jaime,

Good Morning, I am  following along on your wonderful build. Did the turquoise paint change overnight? Or did you apply some A&I to the windows? The last photo shows a remarked improvement in the window color. I'll be building this SRMW kit after the holidays, so all your help is great. Keep up the fine build.

Frank / Erieman

A little bit of both.

On the trim I didn't mention that I first stained it with the A&I, painted it with the turquoise and then dry brushed it with sandstone paint. I didnt do the A&I on top of the turquoise.

Once I get the building all put together I'll revisit the weathering of the turquoise if it needs it.

I hope others build this kit and share their builds. It is a nice kit.

Jaime

Thanks for the update Can you clarify " I didnt do the A&I on top of the turquoise." Do you mean that you did not paint the window frames with the A&I?

Frank / Erieman

On the previous post I was addressing the trim only.


The windows I did tone down with A&I.


Sorry about the confusion. This isn't really going to be a step-by-step thread. I had a chance to work on the kit nonstop during Thanksgiving and I did. I took only enough photos to remind me about what I did. With the windows I did not want to stop along the way. I started on the windows and did not stop until done.


Bob VanGelder sugges the following for the windows:
- spray with white spray paint
- paint outside frame of windows with turquoise diluted a bit with water
- weather with A&I and aged white.
- glaze windows
- install windows on walls


I did not use aged white. I used Apple Barrel sandstone paint instead.


I diluted the turquoise by squirting a dallop from the tube onto my palette (credit card/hotel keycard), I dip clean brush in water and then swirl wet brush on corner of paint dallop. If I need to dilute more I dip brush in water again and repeat. If paint is too diluted I drag in more paint from the dallop. There is no science nor measured amount/formula. I just do what looks good to me.


There are a lot of windows. 80 of them there are. I wanted to get them done as soon as possible. I'd say altogether I spent about 5 hours on the windows (from out of the kit box to gluing finished windows to walls).


Jaime

[Erieman]

Jaime,

Thanks for the update. 80 windows is a lot of windows. looking great. Keep up the post. I'll be starting mine in January. Still trying to finish Hookers.

Frank / Erieman