South River Modelworks 370 - Tucker and Cook Cotton Yarn Mil

Started by NEMMRRC, December 05, 2014, 11:33:59 PM

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CVSNE

Quote from: NEMMRRC on December 16, 2014, 11:42:15 AM
Quote from: CVSNE on December 16, 2014, 11:15:50 AM
Jaime,
Thanks for posting this thread. I've got my kit (I swore I wouldn't buy another South River kit since I didn't have a spot for it on the layout - then I saw the kit and well, let's say I'm determined to find a spot for it!)
I will likely start mine sometime after the new year, but I'm enjoying following along.
Marty
Hi Marty.

Hopefully you can find some room for the kit. It may even be possible to make it a background flat. See the photos I'm attaching of the pilot from South River.

Jaime

Jaime,
I'm sure I'll find a spot for it somewhere....
I noticed Bob's last few kits have been linear, and seem better suited for long narrow stretches which seem to be more common on most layouts than large square areas.
The last South River kit I built (not bought, mind you,  but built) was called "Lamson and Goodfelt" or some such - it was a lot of fun but I could never find a suitable site for it on any layout - so I ended up selling it.
Marty
Marty McGuirk
Manassas, VA

NEMMRRC

Howdy.

Here is the beginning of the shingles for the mansard roof.

I thought the 80 windows were time-consuming enough. The mansard roof shingling is indeed an exercise in patience.

Here is what is needed:



- A 40% Cool Grey Prismacolor pen. DO NOT CHEAP OUT ON THIS STEP. Get the right stuff!
- Laser cut shingles (very nice)
- Shingle patterns printed on grey paper (very nice)
- A very sharp pen knife. The instruction photos show a scalpel. I used my trusty orange and purple Fiskas hobby knife.
- Not pictured is 3M Transfer Tape (very nice)

First trim the borders on the sheet of laser cut shingles.



Then color about 1/3 of the shingles with the 40% Cool Grey Prismacolor marker.



DO NOT CHEAP OUT ON THIS STEP. Get the right stuff!

Next one is to trim each single row of shingles from the sheet of shingles and prepare the shingle pattern paper by applying the 3M Transfer Tape where the shingles will be glued.



Once the shingle pattern paper (I cheated and used copy paper instead) is covered with the 3M Transfer Tape one glues on each row of shingles one at a time IN A SPECIFIC PATTERN.



The shingle row pattern is:
- 3 dark grey shingle rows (the ones colored with the 40% Cool Grey Prismacolor marker; the REAL one!) at the bottom
- 2 light grey shingle rows above that
- 2 dark grey shingle rows (the ones colored with the 40% Cool Grey Prismacolor marker; the REAL one!) above that
- 2 light grey shingle rows above that
- 2 dark grey shingle rows (the ones colored with the 40% Cool Grey Prismacolor marker; the REAL one!) at the top

And here is a full shingle pattern ready to glue to the mansard roof.



Start at one corner of the mansard roof.



Work your way around the mansard roof.



And that is where I am currently. I now need to go finish the job.

Coming up - dormer roofs.

Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com

MAP

Looking good Jaime.  I'll be coming back to this thread when I start my kit next year.  Lots of great information.  Thanks for all of the pics.
Mark

Mike Engler

Nice job on shingling around the dormers. When I first built one of BVG's kits I said there has to be a better way to attack the shingling. First, I am almost adamant about building everything while it is flat on the workbench, whether walls, roofs, whatever. On walls I apply, siding, windows, glazing, window treatment, nail holes, detailing, weathering- you name it before assembly. Then I do roof panels flat on the bench to apply shingles, corrugated, rolled paper sheets, and then color and weather them before assembling the building. The excess shingles or other roofing material is easily trimmed from the sides of the roof while they are flagon the  bench, as well as painting the exposed underside of the roof, or even apply rafters.


But on a structure with dormers, it doesn't look right to shingle the roof and place the dormers on top of the shingles. Kind of like placing a finished structure on top of your scenery, rather than "planting" it. I think the best way with dormers (or chimneys) is to cut and trim carefully and apply them neatly around the dormer, like Bob says. This will require a lot of dry fitting, but hey, neatness counts!


Of course, if you do a sloppy job you can always mix some thinned white glue and Grimy Black and cover up your sins by applying the mixture with a tooth pick- then call it "flashing".

THE Runner- Mike Engler in Lakeville, MN
mike.engler59@gmail.com

NEMMRRC

Ok. Here is a tiny update.

I've begun shingling in between the dormers. It is going much faster than expected.

I'll have some photos later tonight.

Jaime

NEMMRRC

Howdy.

Tiny update to mansard roof shingling.

So I figured out I could take the width measurement in between dormers and transfer that to my chopper and chop me some sections of shingling.



Ain't no step for a stepper.

And that is where I am currently. I now need to go finish the job.

Coming up - dormer roofs.

Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com

NEMMRRC

Howdy.

I used Titebond III glue to glue the shingle sections to the mansard roof.









I must confess this step went by much faster than I anticipated. I like that!

Coming up - dormer roofs.

Jaime
www.myyehudaexperience.com

NEMMRRC

Hot dog!



Vilius is building his Tucker and Cook on his blog:
http://viliussm.blogspot.com


Misery loves company  ::)


Jaime

S&S RR

Jaime


It is really coming along - looks great! I bought some Titebond trim glue some time this summer that works great for scenery. It's thicker and tacky so it stays where you put it. I can't remember where I bought it and haven't been able to find it again to replenish my supply. 
John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

NEMMRRC

Quote from: S&S RR on December 19, 2014, 07:34:44 PM
Jaime


It is really coming along - looks great! I bought some Titebond trim glue some time this summer that works great for scenery. It's thicker and tacky so it stays where you put it. I can't remember where I bought it and haven't been able to find it again to replenish my supply.
Elliott (may he rest in peace) turned me on to Titebond III wood glue. He told me, "once you use Titebond III you won't use anything else on your builds." He was right. For gluing wood I only use Titebond III now. I pick it up at my local Ace Hardware but you could get it at any big box store.


Jaime

MAP

You're really making some great progress Jaime.  I like the idea of using the Chopper to make those cuts on the shingles.  Clean & accurate.  I've been using TIII for all of my builds.  I love that stuff.  I get it at Home D. or Lowes. 
Mark

Jerry

Checking in on you Jaime.  What a pleasant surprise to see how far you've come.

I think your patience has paid off.

Excellent work.

Jerry
"And in the end, it's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years." A. Lincoln

NEMMRRC

Quote from: Jerry on December 20, 2014, 06:33:37 PM
Checking in on you Jaime.  What a pleasant surprise to see how far you've come.

I think your patience has paid off.

Excellent work.

Jerry
Thanks everyone.


I managed to spend a great deal of time on the kit today. I'll try to have an update tomorrow.


It's a great kit. You all should join in.


Jaime

gnatshop

Them north and eastern modelers and manufacturers don't sceer the Memphis Mafia!!
Jaime (aka 'Am'I') is the top kit buildin' hit-man round here!
You don't want'a mess with him!!!

Just my way of saying "Great model building" !










nextceo

Hey Jamie,

   Thanks for sharing all the big pictures. How do you get them to show at the larger size? When I attach photos to my posts, they are small and require the reader to click on them to enlarge the image.

Thanks again!
Alan


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