Airbrushes...types, usages, paints, cleaning

[oldbloodhound]

Gail had an Aztek DA airbrush that I tried but I had a shaky hand that gets worse when I grip things tightly.   I just couldn't operate the thing.
Then I found this Grex airbrush Genesis XT:

The DA trigger control doesn't require a tight grip and the gravity flow works perfectly.   Easy cleanup too.
Less than $160 and I use it every time I want a nice even finish.
Iwata also makes a trigger control unit but for more $$$

I have been using ModelFlex (Badger) paints directly in the airbrush with good results.   I will buy some of the Vallejo next and try them also.   I like the 'no thinning required' feature of these paints.

[ranny9]

On Monday, Dec 01, 2014, explained how he sprays acrylic craft paints (Folk Art or Apple Barrel) with an airbrush, on the old forum:
http://kitforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=15745&p=286649&hilit=airbrush#p286649

Re: Dave's Antiques

Postby DaveInTheHat » Mon Dec 01, 2014 10:02 pm

To spray Folk Art or Apple Barrel paints I thin them with blue windshield washer fluid. I get it about the constancy of milk. To check the viscosity I stick a toothpick in the paint and one good drop drips off before I can count to 10. I sort of figured that out by trial and clogged up airbrush. If its too thin the paint will wick to the edges of whatever you're painting. I tried thinning craft paints with everything I could find around the house and windshield washer fluid works the best. Alcohol, water, Windex, and other household products all left me with lumps in the paint or didn't mix at all.
It takes a little more air pressure to get it to spray right. I usually go around 30 to 40 psi. If the psi is too low the paint will sort of splatter. I usually let the paint dry 24 hours before I start doing anything with it.
For parts that get handled or parts that I'm going to mask over freshly painted areas I give them a coat of clear mat or gloss paint. So far anything that I used worked ok. Most of the time I use Krylon over it.
Windshield washer fluid is poisonous to humans and pets make sure you spray it with good ventilation.

I needed to save this for myself...!

[DaveInTheHat]

I'm hooked on Pasasche airbrushes. I have one that's from the '50's. It's just like the H only bigger. I have 2 H brushes. I got a good deal on one after I beat the crap out of my first one. I'm still using the first H that I bought in the 70's. I don't know why it still works. Not only did I use it for hobby stuff, but I used it for work at a couple different jobs. It's had a lot of use and still works just as good as it did from day one. I have a VL. I only use it once and a while for really detailed work.

I started with a diaphragm compressor and then added a make shift air tank. That worked ok for a while. I couldn't get enough air pressure for some of the paints I was using. I went through a couple of cheap air compressors. The $100 kind. Other than being extremely loud and prone to failure they worked ok. They have about 1000 hour life expectancy and always seemed to breakdown in the middle of a money paying job.

A while ago I was in the middle of painting 20 trolly cars for a customer and my compressor made a funny noise and the air pressure dropped to zero. I took it apart and the piston was in about 10 prices. I had to go back to my 30 year old vibrating diaphragm comprssor to finish the job. A friend of mine told me to get a new compressor from California Air. Since I trust his advise I did.



I love this compressor. It's about as quiet as you can get for under $500. The air supply is smooth. The recovery time is really fast. My workroom is in an upstairs bedroom and I can usually get away with running it while my wife is watching tv in the next room and it doesn't bother her. With my old cheap compressor the noise was so bad nobody in the house could hear anything else.
My compressor cost a little over $200. I think it's a good deal. They have a bunch of different models and videos on their website.

[gnatshop]

I needed to save this for myself...! 

SLOW LOSES!!
I've already saved this for myself!  No embarrassment here - I'll steal any good tip I can find - and
particularly Dave's !!!

[jbvb]

I too started with a Badger blue plastic atomizer. Now I use a Paasche H single-action supplied by a dry nitrogen tank and regulator I got at a welding supply store.  I prefer Floquil, Scalecoat and Tru-Color to acrylic paints; I've done several locos & cars with acrylics, using about 25 lb. where the solvent paints like maybe 18 lb. and holding the airbrush farther from the work so the paint loses more water in transit. But all my acrylics turned into lumps in their bottles after a few years and I'm still using old metal-can Floquil that's probably 45 years old.  While the acrylic paints lasted, I never figured out how to do airbrush weathering with them.

[Mike Baker]

just saw this and thought I would chime in.  For any of you the have ever been to one of my clings or stopped by our table at a show you already know I prefer Badger 150 brushes.  I have a dozen of them.  I also have a badger 350, and a 200.  They are in the retired drawer.

I got my start in the hobby working at Mitchell's in the 1980's.  Occasionally someone wold return an airbrush that they said did not work.  One day noticing a couple of these in the back room I inquired.  I then asked is I could get them working could I have them, with the answer been yes it began my collection of brushes (they just needed a good cleaning).

I prefer the 150 because of the shape and ease of trigger.  I spray with a medium head and a fine needle (unless spraying O scale or larger).  I have used Pasche, Thayer Chandler, etc but much like the difference between a #2 pencil and mechanical I prefer the #2.

I prefer to use solvent based paints.  I do not care for acrylics on model work, never have.  But I will use them if needed.  After spraying a color I will spray either thinner, water or acetone through the brush until no color remains (again dictated by type of paint used.  I do disassemble the brush at least once a day for thorough cleaning (Yup, I spray often, several times a day).  for air I have a large compressor and tank with air lines run throughout the shop.  The port in the spray room does have a moisture trap in line.  Don't think I forgot anything.  Please let me know if anyone has any questions.  Hope to see several of you next week in Springfield!

[GPdemayo]

I needed to save this for myself...! 

SLOW LOSES!!
I've already saved this for myself!  No embarrassment here - I'll steal any good tip I can find - and
particularly Dave's !!!

Gnat.....is it really you??? We've missed you and the Leadbetters around here. 

[ACL1504]

Greg my man, wake up! Gman posted that FIVE years ago. Just saying.

Tom