Alright...had so much fun building the Sierra West Work Train, I figured I'd pick another one of Brett's kits that included a Freight Car. I went with the Logging and Tractor Repair Shed. As I wait for all the strip wood to get stained, I went and put a base coat of paint on all the Resin Castings. I also chose to go ahead and complete the Flat Car that comes with this kit. I used the frame that came with the kit but I decided to build my own deck instead of using the Resin Casting as nothing beats real wood.
Things I added that do not come with this kit:
- Rivets from Tichy Train Group
- Chain, Crow Bar, Grease Can and C-Clamp from Scale-Structures
- Rags - Kleenex painted Green
The reason I post these builds is to receive feedback...so please don't be shy to provide constructive criticism.
That's all for now...
Alan
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Alan, you own the railcar gene!
marty
Alan, the real wood deck really makes it stand out.
Ha...thanks Marty and Dustin.
Alan
Alan, your talent for detailing and realism is amazing. Really enjoy seeing the fruits of your labor. Thanks for sharing with all of us here on the forum.
Bob
Thanks Bob!!
Alan
I had a couple of critiques on my build on another forum and thought I would share them here as well:
1 - I feel like I'm missing some of the crucial steps..can you please show/tell us how to get the effects you achieved:
2 - To me personally the trucks appear overly rusted and too heavy and don't match the quality of the car above. Also the 'treads' would not be rusted at all.
Great comments...these are what I'm looking for...
In regards to the flat car, here is how it was created:
The Frame: It was make from resin and came with the kit. I painted it Roof Brown. I then used Rembrandt Chalks to weather it. They can be found at: http://www.dickblick.com/products/rembrandt-soft-pastels/
The process is to scape off a pile of powder from each Chalk using a razor blade onto Wax Paper. I buy a pack of razor blades from Home Depot and can be found in the paint aisle. I picked 4 different shades of Brown Chalks and 2 shades of Gray Chalks. The numbers on those chalk sticks are:
Browns:
Raw Sienna - 234.2
Raw Sienna - 234.3
Raw Sienna - 234.5
Raw Sienna - 234.7
Grey:
Grey - 274.5
Grey - 274.8
I then dip my brush into a bottle of 90% Rubbing Alcohol (we will call this Bottle A) and then into a pile of chalk and then onto the frame. Just create splotch marks all over the frame of each color. I usually apply the dark colors first and then the lighter colors last. Once the alcohol evaporates (takes about 30 secs), the chalk is left behind and sticks to the frame. Don't worry about the colors getting into your bottle of Alcohol or the piles of powder mixing together. When this part is done, your going to think it doesn't look so great...don't worry.
After all 6 colors have been applied, he is where the magic happens: I take a new brush...one that has dry bristles and I dab it into a bottle of dirt and then onto the frame. Dirt can be found at: (http://www.sceneryexpress.com/FINE-NATURAL-SOIL-DIRT-QUART/productinfo/SE0403/)
I then blend together the various colors of chalk with the dirt. The process of adding dry dirt with a dry brush to the frame goes on until you think it looks right. If too much gets applied, use your dry brush to "sweep away" the layers of dirt and powder until it looks right to you.
The wood deck is simply stained with Indian Ink wash - 15-20 drops of Indian Ink into a pint of 90% Alcohol (we will call this Bottle B). I also will dry brush on some of the brown chalks with a dry brush. For this part of the process, there is no right or wrong answer...its whatever you think looks good. Remember, you can always "sweep away" the chalk to get back to your base color. If you find you've stained the wood too dark with the Indian Ink wash or with your chalks, you can dip your brush into the bottle of 90% Alcohol (Bottle A) and wash out the colors you've applied to the wood. There is typically always a way to undo your weathering so don't be afraid to experiment. I've actually gotten some of my best weathering results by accident from the experiment process.
The Trucks are done the same way as the deck. Pick some browns, oranges, yellows and grays from the chalk list and apply them the same way. The Magic happens after you switch to that dry brush and blend all the colors together with the dirt.
It was pointed out to me from Karl...aka UKGUY...that the truck is over weathered and that the treads probably wouldn't have much (if any) rust on them. I agree with that assessment and plan to do two things to correct that situation. As stated above, if I want to knock off some of the weathering, I'll use my dry brush to "sweep away" some of the weathering effects on the side of the trucks. To fix the treads , I will dip my brush...or in this case probably a Q-Tip so I don't disturb the rest of the weathering...on the truck into a bottle of 90% Alcohol (Bottle A), to wipe away the weathering completely getting back to my base which is the color of the trucks...black. Once I make this adjustment, I'll post a new picture or two.
Thanks again for the comments!
Alan
Here is an updated version of the Flat Cars with the toned down weather affects...this was accomplished as I explained above.
I believe it looks much better...thanks Karl for the suggestion!
Alan
Before:
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After:
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Alan.....
I'm prepared to come to your defense on the various criticisms..
This is narrow gauge logging..........
Trucks came from where ever they could be found and in usually questionable condition. Arch bar trucks were largely outlawed on mainline / interchange railroads by the 1920' so they were pulled out of service by those larger companies and many were sold to any buyer that might come along. Some had sat out for a very long time with little or no thought to preservation. So rust was going to be common.
In addition to rusting conditions....... depending on where the line ran.......... more rust might come along. Coastal Oregon with its salt air would be a contributing factor. Similarly in a mining area in Nevada where the alkali is high enough to dissolve most anything is going to add to the rusting of the trucks and wheels.
Regarding the dirt build up.............. Many logging and mining railroads used no ballast as the tracks were routinely moved from staging area to staging area. The rails were in the dirt along with the wheels.
Sorry however......... I can't solve the weathering on the tread area of the wheels. In a national contest about 15 years ago I took a hit on some wheels that I had not burnished through the blacking to bring up a silver color on the treads.
But.......... after all of that..................
Alan......... these are really cool models.
Thanx
Bob
Ha!..Yeah Bob...you're a good dude! Thanks for trying to defend my work. I had no idea about all those facts you spewed out. Thanks for the education as well.
Alan
Alan..........
Where in Chicago are you.........................
I grew up in North Austin where Chicago turns into Oak Park.
There was a great little mom and pops hobby shop on North Avenue near Central but all that is gone now.
If you have been following my Falk locomotive build....... I did all of that on a Unimat Lathe that I bought from Stanton Hobby on north Milwaukee Avenue in 1961. They closed that shop in about 2004 I think.
When I was in Chicago last in 2010 I looked and found no hobby shops left in the loop either. I've been away from there since 1966 with my all expense paid trip to Viet Nam. I stayed in the west after that.
see ya
Bob
Hey Bob,
Yep..I'm in a suburb of Chicago called Sugar Grove...just west of Naperville. There are only a handful of hobby shops left in this area...everything has basically gone to online purchases direct from the manufacturer. Oh yeah, I've been following your build. I've never dissected an engine like that before so I have no valuable input to add...but I did find it amazing when you took the engines apart into what seemed like a million pieces when you painted it...I'm not sure how you kept track of how everything went back together...
Alan
PS Good move on staying west...the weather sucks here. If I hadn't built my financial advisor business here, I'd be in California by now.
Alright...the walls are finally finished. Here are a few pictures of the walls after they have all been glued together. The life size floor plan acts as a guide to make sure everything is square. The only 2 things I've done different up to this point: 1- I added some extra boards to the outside of the walls to create a 3D effect. I saw this look on the O-Scale version of this kit and thought it made the building look more interesting. 2 - After soaking the boards in the stain and pulling some out at 12 hours, some at 18 hours and some at 24 hours, they still all had about the same shade of stain on them. Therefore, I used 3 different Hunterline Stains - Brown, Gray and Blue/Gray to "helpout" in creating some variation to the boards. I must say the footprint of this building is bigger than I expected...which is great because that means it can fit more details inside...
Alan
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Nice job on the staining and weathering the boards.
Jeff
Looks great Alan. The board variations do stand out well.
Alan, I love the 3D effect, the gaps and the colours. It's really cool!
Marty
Thanks Marty and Dustin...
Alan
Very nice Alan.....I'll be following along. 8)
I'm real excited about the SW Deer Creek Mine that just came in, but since I have never built one of Brett's kits, I'm hesitant about starting it. I'm thinking about doing his W.J. Whiley Wholesale Company kit first, just to get used to the way he has of putting the kits together.
Gregory,
Thanks...in regards to building Whiley's over the Mine, I would probably pick the Mine as Brett has gotten "smarter" on how he builds his kits...from new cutting templates that he's now including in his new kits to methods used to stain the wood faster. All these new modeling advances by Brett will help you as you build some of his older kits. Plus if you mess up the Mine for whatever reason, you can still get replacement parts from Brett since that kit is still in production.
Just my thoughts...
Alan
Quote from: nextceo on March 01, 2015, 12:28:47 PM
Gregory,
Thanks...in regards to building Whiley's over the Mine, I would probably pick the Mine as Brett has gotten "smarter" on how he builds his kits...from new cutting templates that he's now including in his new kits to methods used to stain the wood faster. All these new modeling advances by Brett will help you as you build some of his older kits. Plus if you mess up the Mine for whatever reason, you can still get replacement parts from Brett since that kit is still in production.
Just my thoughts...
Alan
Okay Alan.....I'll give it some more thought. I really don't need much encouragement to jump on the mine because I really want to build it, but I really don't want to screw it up, even if Brett still has parts available.
If I decide to go ahead, I've got a couple of small projects I'm doing right now, but I should be able to get to it before summer.
If I do mess up, I'll make 2 calls - one to Brett for parts and the second to the guy that talked me into it.......... ;D
Since my last update, I've built the Base to the diorama out of GatorBoard and Form. The white area at the back of the structure is the bottom of infamous "Deer Creek". The size is 16x20. The reason I built it a little bigger than the 9x12 that's listed in the instructions is I plan on scratch building a little shed to hold a couple of extra tractors. I also wanted a reason to add some color to the diorama so I've begun staining the walls on the extra shed a faded barn red color. I'm just waiting on some more 2X10 boards that I had to order to finish that structure. Looking at the main building, you'll see that Brett has you glue down a floor plan directly to the diorama. This is great because it really helped to line up the floor boards. Next up is to start adding the castings to the inside of the building. My original goal was to have 5 lamps hanging from the ceiling (that worked) so one could see all the details when the roof is on. I'm now second guessing that decision since there really is no place to hide all the wires that would be required to pull that off.
That's all for now...
Alan
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Alan,
Great idea to make it bigger. Have you considered some task goosenecks over workbenches?
Marty
Hey Marty,
Im trying to decide if I going to put in ceiling lamps let alone any lamps over the work benches. I don't want the wires wrecking the look of the build.
Alan
PS Nice work on your SierraWest Tool Shed Build...
If its over the workbench you coukd easily use conduit down the wall.
Thanks for the tool shed comment.
Alan...
Regarding how to get wires around for lighting.......... there is a square conduit called "channel" that fastens to the wall and has a snap on cover that is legal for wiring in most states. It's designed for add-on applications and comes pre colored in non attention getting colors.
You should be able to find it in most electrical supply houses.
see ya
Bob
Since I haven't posted a pic in a while, here is where I'm at. I built the extra shed to house another tractor and add color to the diorama. I have not weathered the walls of the building or knocked off the fuzzys yet. I used some Hunterline stains to color the wood. I did hook up the lights and created the frame for the removable roof. I'm now in the process of weathering the metal that will be used for the roof and I'm currently painting all the detail castings that will be found inside. That is all...off to Vegas tomorrow...
Alan
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FPic%25201_zps3tjxrgjo.jpg&hash=0998868e3d77a914cdffd7613189d69a396a4aad) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/Pic%201_zps3tjxrgjo.jpg.html)
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Alan,
I am a new member and in the very short time that I've been here, I have been duly impressed with the craftsmanship each and every one of you "artists" display. Everyone of you who take the time to explain, teach and show your work have won my respect and awe.
Please keep up the great work as I intend to learn from the best.
Donato
Donato,
Thanks for the kind words. Are you building anything right now...or built something recently? If so, please post a link to your build thread...I'd like to see your work.
Thanks again!
Alan
Hi next CEO:
Very cool. Like the color and weathering. Nice looking natural wood.
Karl
Thanks Karl!
Alan
Quote from: nextceo on March 16, 2015, 12:42:30 AM
Donato,
Thanks for the kind words. Are you building anything right now...or built something recently? If so, please post a link to your build thread...I'd like to see your work.
Thanks again!
Alan
Hey Alan,
I have not built anything in many, many years. I never had the room and space for a layout. Back in the early 70's I built a few dioramas. We have recently moved to a new home and my gracious wife is letting me have a room in the basement. As soon as we can unpack the moving boxes presently in the train room, It will be full steam ahead. I have been scouring Ebay and alienating the good offices of my mailman with all the packages he is delivering.
I have been itching to start a build thread of something small and easy, but was sort of embarrassed as to the subject .... a Walthers plastic kit, "River Road Mercantile". I have decided that I will do a thread on it regardless of the outcome as I haven't touched glue since the last century.
Best,
Donato
I finished up the detachable roof by using chalk and alcohol to weather the metal panels. I'm going to use some of the "Evil Etchant" on some other panels and apply them to many of the holes you currently see on the roof to add some variation. The only thing left on the inside of the shed is to add a few chains and hoses (Painted Solder) and a 1920 Fordson Farm Tractor. I did this little shed first so I could figure out how I was going to run the lights. Now that I solved that issue, I'm now going to move onto the Main Tractor Shed.
Alan
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That's looking great Alan, The weathering is spot on.
Saml
Thanks Sam.
See you next week!
Alan
Quote from: nextceo on March 17, 2015, 09:13:17 AM
Thanks Sam.
See you next week!
Alan
Looking forward to it. See you then.
Sam
Looks fantastic, Alan!
I especially like the holey roof, and the way you have kept all the corrugated iron around the right way. I wonder about some water damage - staining and the like? You could indicate prevailing driven rain direction by offsetting watermarks from the holes in the roof and walls. Of course if your shed is in a very dry climate...
Cheers, Mark.
Thanks Mark. Yeah, right now it has too many holes in that roof. It should look better...and more believable once I add those other panels that I weather with the "Evil" Etchant.
Alan
Quote from: Donato on March 16, 2015, 08:15:18 PM
I have been itching to start a build thread of something small and easy, but was sort of embarrassed as to the subject .... a Walthers plastic kit, "River Road Mercantile". I have decided that I will do a thread on it regardless of the outcome as I haven't touched glue since the last century.
Best, Donato
No wish to hijack this excellent thread but Donato, it's a kit and just because it's plastic no-one here would look down on your contribution. Personally I love taking plastic kits and turning them into the best quality model I can, it's almost an art form in itself for those who get it right. Stick your build in the Kitbuiding section and have at it sir!
Quote from: barrymk on March 17, 2015, 07:11:44 PM
Quote from: Donato on March 16, 2015, 08:15:18 PM
I have been itching to start a build thread of something small and easy, but was sort of embarrassed as to the subject .... a Walthers plastic kit, "River Road Mercantile". I have decided that I will do a thread on it regardless of the outcome as I haven't touched glue since the last century.
Best, Donato
Will Do .....
No wish to hijack this excellent thread but Donato, it's a kit and just because it's plastic no-one here would look down on your contribution. Personally I love taking plastic kits and turning them into the best quality model I can, it's almost an art form in itself for those who get it right. Stick your build in the Kitbuiding section and have at it sir!
Added oil stains and tire marks to the floor and built a 1920s Fordson Tractor by Jordan. I'm now in the process of painting/weathering all the castings for the Main Building.
Alan
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That is awesome Alan, will you have it done in time to bring it to the Expo? Sure would like to see it all together in person. WOW.
Sam
Ha! Thanks Sam. Yeah, I've got about another month left on this build.
Thanks for the comments...can't wait to see your diorama next week!
Alan
After having a chance to talk with Ken Karns and Joel Freedman at this weekends Expo, I decided to take a run at using Etchant to weather my roofing panels.
Here are the steps I followed:
Put on Rubber Gloves and Shop glasses. I did this process in my basement.
1 - Poured about an inch of Etchant into a plastic container.
2 - I filled up 2 plastic bowls of water about 6 inches deep.
3 - I cut my panels to size.
4 - I dropped about 4 of them at a time into the bowl of Etchant
5 - You will need to take your tweezers and stir them up a bit and periodically push them into the Etchant as they like to float to the surface.
6 - The time can vary based on each panel but after 2-10 minutes, the panels will begin to "sizzle" as a chemical reaction has taken place and the panel will begin turning black. Some panels will react right away..other will take a little while to react.
7 - At this point, you have about 5-10 seconds to fish that panel out of the solution and to drop it into the first bowl of water. The longer you leave the panel in the solution as its "sizzling", the more it will turn the panel blacker...to the point where it starts to disintegrate. I let a few of the panels reach the disintegration point which I show in the pictures. Once you've fished a sizzling panel out of the Etchant with your tweezers, continue to hold some of the panels in your tweezers above the bowl of water until the sizzling has stopped...then drop it in the water. By doing this, it will give you a different weathering effect then if you drop a panel in the bowl of water while it is still sizzling.
*Note you need to wait for that sizzle to occur in order to get the weathering effect. I've read people's comments that have done this process and say the panels don't show weathering. The reason is they didn't wait for that chemical reaction to occur. Again, it can take up to 10 minutes for some of the panels to under go this reaction. You also need to keep stirring solution with your tweezers and or pushing the panels into the solution as they float to the surface. I promise, your tweezers wont melt.
8 - Once I fish out the 4 panels from the Etchant and have them soaking in a bowl of water, I add 4 new panels to the etchant. Once all the panels have been weather and have been in the water for at least 5 minutes, I pull them all out and place them on a paper towel to dry.
9 - The first picture shows the weathered panels on a paper towel after they dried for 10 minutes or so. This is the part which many folks complain that their panels are only black and that this process doesn't work.
10 - This next step is the most important step. You will notice that some of the panels drying on the paper towel have left a light orange stain..that means that the Etchant hasn't been completely washed off the panels. You need to take every single panel on the paper towel and put them back into that second bowl of water. This water should be clear and should be the first time you are putting anything into this second bowl of water. Let the panels soak for another 5-10 minutes. You are doing this second soaking process for 2 reasons. 1 - You need to make sure to wash off all the Etchant otherwise your panels will continue to be eaten by the acids and 2- The introduction of the water the second time is where we get the rusting effect.
11 - Here I have pulled the panels out of the 2nd bowl of water and let them dry on a new piece of paper towel. After 20-30 minutes, the rusting effects will begin to appear as seen in pictures 2 and 3. No chalks or paints have been added to the panels at this point.
12 - Add chalks or paint to the panels as desired. I will probably had some chalk to some of the panels to help mute the shine.
Recap: Don't be afraid of this process. Use Rubber Gloves and Eye Protection and you'll be fine. I originally was doing this outside but the weather was 38 degrees which was effecting the chemical reaction process so I moved it down into my basement.
If you need any further clarification, please let me know...
Alan
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2Fd3451a3a-8750-4fb4-a81c-dec575a2a57b_zpsyd744fag.jpg&hash=456e75dbe49bd50ff423d2c18743f270552e0267) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/d3451a3a-8750-4fb4-a81c-dec575a2a57b_zpsyd744fag.jpg.html)
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Love the roofing panel weathering. Nicely explained and detailed. One question; what was the etchant that you used?
Danto, look here for pictures on how to do it.
https://www.facebook.com/MKRailway/photos/a.1471091059782689.1073741843.1406375389587590/1471092526449209/?type=3&theater
Hi Next CEO:
Very nicely done. I love the paint job and weathering.
Karl
Martin,
Thanks for the link. I looked at the photos and followed the process and I understand what needs to be done. I still need to know what you used as the etchant. Do you purchase as is or is it something you mix up yourself and if so, what is the recipe?
Thanks for all your help.
I got mine locally here (http://www.sayal.com/STORE/View_SPEC.asp?SKU=70106).
It's a Printed Circuit board copper etchant. It is Ferric Chloride solution. Used to be available at RadioShack, but I don't know if they still exist.
Marty
Thanks Karl. BTW, were you at the Expo this past weekend? I saw a lot of Karl's but didn't know if one of them was you...
Alan
The list of patina recipes for adventurous modelers.
http://www.sciencecompany.com/Do-It-Yourself-Patina-Formulas-W12C672.aspx (http://www.sciencecompany.com/Do-It-Yourself-Patina-Formulas-W12C672.aspx)
It says for brass, bronze and copper but some of them may work on corrugated aluminum.
Vilius
Thanks Vilius,
Hope I don't kill myself tying to use some of the "recipes" you posted...
Alan
Quote from: nextceo on March 29, 2015, 11:36:26 PM
After having a chance to talk with Ken Karns and Joel Freedman at this weekends Expo, I decided to take a run at using Etchant to weather my roofing panels.
Here are the steps I followed:
Put on Rubber Gloves and Shop glasses. I did this process in my basement.
<snip>
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2F994e8c7f-c6e0-465c-8732-58732c5d0bc6_zpsf4sinkog.jpg&hash=47265f30f2790d419d29264c31dab4c2d0c1d609) (http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f86/nextceo1/994e8c7f-c6e0-465c-8732-58732c5d0bc6_zpsf4sinkog.jpg)
Nice work Alan! Good seeing you and everyone else at the Expo.
Etched corrugated panels make for some neat fences too.
Just wanted to add that someone new to this might want to start with one or two panels to get the hang of it before doing more panels at a time. I used a small shallow tray when doing mine and it didn't hold a large amount of etchant. The panels would sit for a while and then suddenly start sizzling away. The reaction really goes to town once the shiny coating gets eaten through. As more panels get treated, the etchant starts to get "tired" and it takes a little longer for the sizzling to occur - and the sizzling slows down a bit too. I notice this after about the third batch I think. Again, it was a small shallow tray. If you're working with a bigger amount of solution it would probably stay potent longer.
-slim
Quote from: martin.ojaste on March 30, 2015, 01:22:58 PM
I got mine locally here (http://www.sayal.com/STORE/View_SPEC.asp?SKU=70106 (http://www.sayal.com/STORE/View_SPEC.asp?SKU=70106)).
It's a Printed Circuit board copper etchant. It is Ferric Chloride solution. Used to be available at RadioShack, but I don't know if they still exist.
Marty
Thanks Marty. Just ordered a bottle from Amazon.
Hey Slim,
Good to see you at the Expo. Yeah, I used your Flux Pen you sold me...works awesome. I just installed the Arc Welding Simulator last night. Is there some type of timing device I can get from you so the arc welding effect isn't constantly running? I would like it to flash Blue/White for 30 secs or so and then stop for a few minutes before it fires up again...
Please let me know...
Alan
Figured since its been a while, I'd post an update of my build. Since my last post, I added lights to the Main Building, hand laid the track with spikes from Fast Tracks and added some scenery. Next step is to start detailing the outside of the Main Building...
Alan
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FBuild1_zpshyzd1f0f.jpg&hash=9da00ab132ba2e499a1424939d470af43a424551) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/Build1_zpshyzd1f0f.jpg.html)
Looks great, Alan
Sam
Hey Sam,
Thanks! What are you working on currently?
Alan
Beautiful job Alan. Just the right amount of "junk" detail. Very nice weathering.
Quote from: nextceo on May 24, 2015, 10:50:04 PM
Hey Sam,
Thanks! What are you working on currently?
Alan
Alan, I been working on this corner of my layout. going to add large city buildings. with track going under the city.
Sam
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1228.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee460%2FSam_Novello%2F100_0354-1.jpg&hash=c5dc6091f87c485a0fdcfdea9e17b759a2fae35f) (http://s1228.photobucket.com/user/Sam_Novello/media/100_0354-1.jpg.html)
Alan,
Beautiful job Alan, looks great.
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom.
Here is a scene of the tractor repair area. I added an Arc Welder Simulator that runs for 20 secs and then shuts off for 2 mins...and then repeats.
Alan
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FTractor%25201_zpsqnyt0edu.jpg&hash=2e9bfd70cabb90d5bed02d1e8d01f41755c30e1c) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/Tractor%201_zpsqnyt0edu.jpg.html)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FTractor%25202_zps94tsmvtw.jpg&hash=2c2e3d8053f1b82af8a338c10c1d65bd007131ce) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/Tractor%202_zps94tsmvtw.jpg.html)
I really like anything that adds animation to a layout or structure. If you can, post a short video of the welder in action.
I've never posted a video before. After I'm finished with the diorama, I'll give that a try.
Thanks for the comments...
Alan
Very nice!
As promised, I just finished up the inside of the Repair Shed. I'm now working on the roof.
Happy Viewing...
Alan
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FTractor1_zpsmmbzv86w.jpg&hash=e6e1576a6edede8a3853dd77b9c652ac2c6702d4) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/Tractor1_zpsmmbzv86w.jpg.html)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FTractor2_zpsl1qna0vr.jpg&hash=625794498c566de4fd91f7b51d23378a581ee95f) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/Tractor2_zpsl1qna0vr.jpg.html)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FTractor3_zpszxbdinwv.jpg&hash=4c2175a66b1a318478380a75237d4c586f1732a8) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/Tractor3_zpszxbdinwv.jpg.html)
That is some fantastic work Alan.
Five Stars for you!
Thanks Dustin and Marty...
Alan
Alan,
Very nice work !
Thanks for sharing your info on the wood coloring and the metal roof construction also .
Like that neat welding lite !
Tom 8)
Wow. Fantastic!
John
Quote from: martin.ojaste on June 01, 2015, 12:09:34 AM
Five Stars for you!
I'll give you ten stars.
Do I hear fifteen?!?!
very inspiring work. Always a pleasure to see your realisation.
Eric QUébec city
A big WHOA NELLY!
Wow ! ! !
Just great.........
There is so much great modeling going on at this forum.
I am privileged often to be asked to judge for Achievement Program stuff at our division and regional meets. ( I won't judge nationals because I am a conscientious objector of contest rules.)
I see some pretty amazing stuff while doing that judging. I see a lot of AP quality stuff here on the forum. You boys need to get out of your basements and get some of these great models judged. You would all score well I'm sure.
Please be aware that if stuff is glued to your railroads the judges can come to you. We call this in the northwest........... Aggressive Pursuit for the renaming of the AP program.
Great stuff..
Thanx
Bob
Great detail work Alan. 8)
Thanks for all the nice comments everyone. Question for you Bob, how/where do you go to get your models judged??
Alan
Great details Alan , awesome modeling.
That's easy.
You will have a local NMRA region or division. By now you probably already know some in the local division that covers what part of the country you live in. Including international. I don't think we have an Africa or Antarctic region yet but I'll bet some one is working on it.
If you are not sure go to your local hobby shop and ask. Sort of like when you get arrested and you shout out," I need a bonds man." Someone will answer. I've never been arrested but I also know it works ! ! !!
Then........... find out when the next division meet might occur; usually twice a year. Or a region which is almost always once a year. Go out to the NMRA page and find out what region and division you are in. If you want let us know here and we can tell you.
Then show up. Understand however........... NMRA events are just that and there is an expectation that you are a member. There is a six month trial membership that is not real expensive.
Then after all of that.............. Go to the event and when you register tell them that you have something that needs to be judged. They will help you.
There is a location on the NMRA page with the judging forms you will need. Go to the bottom, of the home page, in the bread crumbs, that talks about Contests and click in. There are two forms, a judging form (901) and the actual judging sheet........ in this case structures.
Fill out the paperwork and tell them what went into the model. There are five sections to judging. Construction, Detail, Conformability, Paint and lettering, scratch building. Tell them EVERYTHING that you did. They can't know if you don't tell them. They are required to read all the stuff that you submit. That however, is not true of Contest Judging which is largely at national events. I refuse to judge under contest rules.
You might take a beating the first time but the judges are REQUIRED to tell you either in person or on the back of the form why they found the way they did on the various rubric areas. Don't let them just give you the model and the sheets at the end of the day without some comments.
How will you ever become a better modeler if they don't tell you. This one area really fries me as a judge as I hear of a lot of models being judged that the modeler never hears a thing. They are required as judges to respond to you.
Let me know if you have more questions
see ya
Bob
Thanks for all the information Bob. I may come back to you with more questions as I start this process.
Thanks again!
Alan
Alan...
I don't know what I was thinking last night when I responded to you. We had this conversation some time ago. You live out in the western suburbs of Chicago........... I think.
I grew up in Austin near Oak Park.
You are either in the Du Page or the Fox Valley division of the Midwest Region.
There was a big club in Elmhurst called the Salt Creek something. I was never a member there but they did events in the 60's. They would have locomotive pulls and all sorts of fun stuff.
See if you can find them. Otherwise go up to Des Planes hobbies on Lee Street....... I think that is Manheim farther south Hwy 45 as I remember.
They can help you I'm sure.
Hit me on the side with your phone number and I can call you and help you out.
see ya
Bob
Hey Bob,
Yeah, I saw that the Fox Valley group just met last month. I guess I'll have to wait a little bit. I did shoot you my cell in case you have any other suggestions.
Thanks!
Alan
Just finished up with putting the roof in place. I'll post more close ups once the trimming is done. In the meantime, I thought I would try posting my first video...
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FShed_zpsc4400qrf.jpg&hash=2f912c7e8e81eb4c9ab318b673790c50d8cd5024) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/Shed_zpsc4400qrf.jpg.html)
Video Link: https://youtu.be/8eZ0amTiFyE
Alan,
Nice wok with the video post. Adds a lot of life to an already terrific build.
Very cool
Thanx
Bob
Thanks Bob and Bob!
Alan
I like the video Alan. You should shoot a 360 video when the model is all finished. So we can see all around the dio.
Nice, very nice!!!
The video adds another dimension to the build presentation.
Another thing I've got to learn!!! :-\
Thanks Donato!
Alan
Finished up with the roof tonite. Took advantage of our good sunset we had...here are the pictures.
Next up is to build another Best Tractor from Rio Grand Models, A Mac Tow Truck from Weisman Models and a maintenance car.
That's all for now...
Alan
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FRepair1_zpsqzb3msgu.jpg&hash=c49e21e55afb47e4eb4c584ec6c2666182b28c5e) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/Repair1_zpsqzb3msgu.jpg.html)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FRepair2_zpsy0eusio3.jpg&hash=bd5aaafd733ac7a1127befe62a395a5fc7d2de45) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/Repair2_zpsy0eusio3.jpg.html)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FRepair3_zps5sfall7o.jpg&hash=063b7ba729aba59d8c18f6b8ab069f1120f20c7a) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/Repair3_zps5sfall7o.jpg.html)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FRepair4_zpskfh5yv8h.jpg&hash=dd413fb5c3e49605b189398ff0311b653e362700) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/Repair4_zpskfh5yv8h.jpg.html)
Now those are some great shots.
Quote from: coors2u on June 08, 2015, 09:57:37 AM
Now those are some great shots.
I'll second that .... just feel like walking right up to the entrance, enter, pick up a tool and get to work. Just Wonderful!!!
That is SPECTACULAR! Fantastic modeling, Fantastic photography!
John
Thanks Dustin, Donato and John. Yeah, got lucky with the neat looking sunset...really makes the pictures.
Alan
Here is a good question that was asked on another forum: Whose figure did you use for the welder? Did it include a power supply for the welder?
The welder figure came from www.Scalefigures.com
I also got the blacksmith from the same place.
See Pics
The Welder Simulator came from www.engineering.com. You have to buy the simulator, the Blue and White LEDs, the power distribution board and the 12V power supply. Total its going to cost about $50. If you need help, you can always reach out to me but otherwise, Tim the owner is awesome. I knew ZERO about electrical until 2 years ago when Tim taught me everything I needed. I also had the simulator custom programmed thru Tim for another $10 in which it runs for 30 seconds and then shuts off for 90 secs...and then repeats. It makes the diorama look more realistic since a guy wouldn't be welding non-stop.
Hope that helps!
Alan
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FImage57_zpsqk9ihkup.jpg&hash=657be26d0e85cd44e82853c5a3b082c1b9bf6162) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/Image57_zpsqk9ihkup.jpg.html)
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Hey,
Just need to vent here...
I was attempting to build a Mack Tow truck from Wiseman Models to add to this diorama and it wasn't the most fun experience.
1 - I couldn't get the parts to hold the paint or glue. I did wash the parts in soap and water but that didn't seem to help.
2 - The instructions were quite difficult to follow. A lot of these older kits have exploding instructions but they typically have numbers next to each part with a few sentences explaining the order the parts get assembled. These instructions lacked those explanations which makes things a little frustrating at time of assembly.
I did email Keith over at Wiseman Models about my experience and he emailed me right back. To address my first issue, he mentioned that before painting and assembling the kit, I needed to wash the parts in alcohol. In terms of the instructions, he agreed they can be a little difficult to follow but that some of his other kits that he sells come with more detailed instructions.
Ok, done venting...
That is all...
Alan
Alan.............
Go retrieve it and start over............
The instructions are not the best and occasionally I don't put the fenders on some models.
The thing they don't tell you is that you need to rough up the castings where the glue is to go as there is a mold release along with oxidation that resists super glue bonding to it. Even then they are rather fragile.
Otherwise pack it up and send it and I can stick it together for you and mail it back.
I have not built any of these since Wiseman took it over so the molds may be a bit tired but the metal shapes easily with a model knife and 400 sand paper.
see ya
Bob
Thanks for comments Bob. Glad to hear I wasn't missing something with the glue not sticking. I did clean the parts and that didn't help. Yeah, I wouldn't be that mean and send that kit to you. I just went on eBay and ordered a Jordan Mack Truck.. I did retrieve the bed and the tow crane out of the garbage from the Wiseman kit which I'll kit bash with the Jordan Mack truck.
Thanks again...
Alan
Alan........
I'm serious............
hit me on the side for an address and I'll stuff it together.
This is the sort of stuff that I find a challenge.
Besides.......... what are friends for if you can't use them up ? ? ? ?
see ya
Bob
Finished up a couple of Rio Grande Model Kits. I must say Eric (owner of Rio Grande Models) has excellent kits. The parts have fantastic detail to them, they fit nicely together and the instructions take you thru the build step by step. Nothing but good things to say about his kits.
The first kit I built was the Rio Grande Models BEST Tractor. Its similar to the one that comes with the Sierrawest Repair Shed kit but with a lot more detail. I decided to use some of the ideas from Brett's O Scale build of the Repair Shed and have this tractor under repair with its front radiator off.
I also built the Rio Grande Models Holt Wagon. The only thing I did differently is I hand built the wood bin (kit comes with premade wood sides) and I added a few pieces of wood to the front of the wagon...the kit comes with a precast part that is made of metal but is suppose to look like wood.
That's all for now. Next step is to finish up the Mack Tow Truck...then on to the trees and bushes.
Alan
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FTractor1_zpsv3pl6ode.jpg&hash=9a87aa717ce82ef4a7c3f60f05a74d9268c664bd) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/Tractor1_zpsv3pl6ode.jpg.html)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FWagon_zpsxocqc1s7.jpg&hash=2b76f480952b296b69a41e32323d092bad115145) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/Wagon_zpsxocqc1s7.jpg.html)
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Alan
I just read through your thread- great work! I'm looking forward to watching your future work.
Wow. Great job on the tractor and wagon.
Jeff
Thanks John and Jeff. Yeah, the Rio Grande Models are designed very well. I dont like it when the parts dont fit correctly and you have to try and decipher the instructions.
Alan
Very nice Alan!
Alan that is some superb work .... you can almost smell the grease from that tractor! ;)
Thanks John and Donato. Here is a picture of a tree I built tonite. I got the materials from:
http://www.thescenicfactory.com/Default.asp
The process is the same as making other trees. The trunk is made of a softer wood that comes to a point at the end. In the past I've just bought strips of balsa wood and used an exacto knife to carve them. Once the piece of wood is to the shape I needed, I would run a razor tooth saw blade down the piece of wood to give it bark like texture. This website sells those trunks already preshaped. The added benefit they also give you is a coating of some type of material that has bark type texture. It arrives in a black color...I just added a few washed coats of various browns. My definition of a washed coat is to put a little paint on a sheet of wax paper and then put a few drops of Rubbing Alcohol on that same sheet of wax paper. I then mix the alcohol with the paint to thin it out and wash it across the bark texture. If you do this and the bark becomes too brown, mix up a little black with alcohol to darken it back up.
The next step is to take a pin vise and drill holes and various spots around the trunk and insert the branches. In the past for the branches, I used Caspia from Hobby Lobby and spray painted them green. I then would dip the end of the Caspia in white glue and insert it into the holes created from my pin vise. This website sells highly detailed green fern type branches that look much more realistic than the Caspia. White glue is still used with these fern looking branches to attach them to the trunk. The tree took about an hour to build as I was constantly tweaking the branches after they were installed. On the website they also sell a pack of dead branches/twigs which I inserted in to the trunk and scattered around the base of the tree. To keep the tree in place, I drilled a hole in the bottom of the tree with my pin vise and then snapped off the end of a tooth pick and glue it into the hole. This gave me something I could use to allow me to insert he tree into my foam base - giving it the ability it to stand on its own.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2F48317a99-af82-416c-90f4-e90bc1f7d759_zpsjymsz2tk.jpg&hash=1464a5a7acc25874eb82f46cbbe9b0c7ea4d30e0) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/48317a99-af82-416c-90f4-e90bc1f7d759_zpsjymsz2tk.jpg.html)
That's all for now...
Alan
Finished up with the last 2 vehicles for my diorama.
The first one is the Hand Car kit made by Durango Models
The second one is a "Kit Bashed" Tow Truck. Every Repair Shed needs a Utility Truck like this one...I made it from these 3 kits:
The Truck itself - Jordan Models
The Towing Apparatus - Wiseman Models
The Front Plow with Overhead Crane - Left over pieces from a Rio Grande Models - Best Tractor Kit
Next up is to finish up some final scenery details and then I'll post the final pictures...
Alan
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FHand%2520Car_zpskvjyn9k5.jpg&hash=ca7738ecdc278c0c2e1277a94ceeb659a68d0255) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/Hand%20Car_zpskvjyn9k5.jpg.html)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FTow%2520Trucks_zpsvc9g8udl.jpg&hash=27bd8387f2531004b5f8b965296b6261058ab0da) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/Tow%20Trucks_zpsvc9g8udl.jpg.html)
Alan.........
Great stuff
thanx
Bob
Alan,
very nice work on the Jordan Mack truck, very inspriring.
Can'T wait to see the final pictur of your dio.
Eric QUébec city
Very nice Alan.....coming together nicely. 8)
W :o W!!!!
Thanks Bob, Eric, Gregory and Donato for the nice comments. Its amazing how close-up pictures bring out the flaws in your work. After studying the pictures, I think I'm going to need to "redo" the hood on the tow truck...it appears to have too much weathering on it.
Alan
Very nice Alan!
Well done Alan, superior modeling for sure.
Tom ;D
Alan, that truck is definitely the "cat's meow".
Thanks LHC, Bob and Tom. I should be able to post final pictures once I get back from vacation.
Alan
This is going to be a great diorama. Do think you are dome?
Marty
HI Alan:
All I can say is WOW!!!!!!!!! Great work.
Karl
Thanks Karl..I learned from watching you!
Alan
I've been waiting for over a week for a sunset...and is suppose to rain for the next week. Here are some "ok" pictures I took tonite of my finished diorama. I'll repost better ones once it stops raining and I get a good sunset...
Alan
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FShed10_zpsw1znhncp.jpg&hash=8b4879d1e59b2fd5593b6a2a9bfa1701580da86f) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/Shed10_zpsw1znhncp.jpg.html)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FShed9_zpspunisc43.jpg&hash=b4aadb8d991f43ad69d2ed284ed1322eb50052de) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/Shed9_zpspunisc43.jpg.html)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FShed11_zpsyngqkafq.jpg&hash=8e7d89a4f4a0c1ac08132082a62fbf711c9b9a92) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/Shed11_zpsyngqkafq.jpg.html)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FShed12_zpsbteh5hkq.jpg&hash=7915857324d69cd85fdb3aafdb4dedde9b6e57b5) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/Shed12_zpsbteh5hkq.jpg.html)
Very beautiful pictures...
Your dio is simply beautiful. A piece of art.
Eric Québec city
Thanks Eric!
Alan
Great work as usual Alan. What's next on the table to build.
Thanks Dustin. Im trying to decide between the HO Scale Twin Mills kit and the O Scale Saw Mill kit.
Alan
Alan,
That is soooo realistic .... I had to keep reminding myself it is a "model" .... GREAT work!!
My vote goes for O scale mill.
WOW , such realism, great modeling and superb photography.
In an other forum, we have recently athread about the O scale saw mill... so.... after many years, my vote goes to the HO twin mill ... Okay okay, I am not impartial, I too have a copy of this kit, and I wish to withdraw some of the teachings of Alan Experience :) :) :)
Eric Québec city
Thanks Eric and Jan...
Here are few more pics...
Alan
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FShed4_zps6hrztabg.jpg&hash=74d54acb7144e371c343023bf2561884f395ddd8) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/Shed4_zps6hrztabg.jpg.html)
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi45.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff86%2Fnextceo1%2FShed2_zpszsbwsdnv.jpg&hash=ccf2e4f37517714094f4a45f8f589ce9a6582f9f) (http://s45.photobucket.com/user/nextceo1/media/Shed2_zpszsbwsdnv.jpg.html)
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