Building a Campbell structure and tried to use contact cement, no go, also tried Boyds, better but still no! Rather than reinvent the wheel, what have you used that worked????????????????
I can tell you what NOT to use, Walthers Goo! Or anything else that is solvent based. (I started this years ago, used Goo, and the walls warped terribly.)
If I were building this now, I'd try transfer tape! Or "Goop" from ModelBuildersSupply.com (This is a water soluble glue that is designed to laminate dissimilar materials, including styrene to cardboard.)
dave
White glue or epoxy will work in many cases.
Quote from: deemery on August 14, 2015, 08:52:06 PM
I can tell you what NOT to use, Walthers Goo! Or anything else that is solvent based. (I started this years ago, used Goo, and the walls warped terribly.)
If I were building this now, I'd try transfer tape! Or "Goop" from ModelBuildersSupply.com (This is a water soluble glue that is designed to laminate dissimilar materials, including styrene to cardboard.)
dave
Forgot about transfer tape, and I have some. Never liked it for roofing but it may be what I need for this and way less messy!!!!!
Rebel,
When I glued the foundation on Campbell's Grandma's House I used Titebond. It's been on the house for 35+ years and still tight.
That said, I'm not sure they are using the same type plastic for the stone wall as they did back then. Just saying. 8)
Tom ;D
Good point but this is an old kit, good thing too because I got a more recent kit of theirs off e-bay and the wood was terrible, almost all of it. Still used the walls. corners and windows but most everything else was from my stuff. Don't know if I have any Tightbond but used to. Did test of Ailenes (proubly misspelled), Durabond and ACC, we shall see, have to try Tightbond now, learning to love styrene at this point!
Quote from: martin.ojaste on August 14, 2015, 09:10:47 PM
White glue or epoxy will work in many cases.
Regular (Elmers) white glue won't stick to the plastic stone sheeting (tried that first.) Epoxy would probably work.
dave
Still had some Tightbond, doing a test. One of the others, Quick Grip worked.
Just checked the garage, Tightbond wins, holds just as well as the Quick Grip but way less toxic, less time to set and you can see when it has set! Now should I weigh it down as it sets, like put a board over it with a weight???????????
Oh, and thanks for the tip, would never have guess that would work.
Does QuickGrip have a solvent smell? Would stay away from anything that smells 'solventy'. Glad to hear Tightbond works.
That's a great kit, I'm looking forward to see what you do with it.
dave
Quote from: rebel on August 15, 2015, 05:02:43 PM
Just checked the garage, Tightbond wins, holds just as well as the Quick Grip but way less toxic, less time to set and you can see when it has set! Now should I weigh it down as it sets, like put a board over it with a weight? ??? ??? ??? ?
Rebel,
Yes, weight it down. I did mine as the Titebond is a water base glue. Weighting it down will prevent warping as it dries.
I'm glad I could be of some help. Like I said mine is still tight after all these long years.
Tom ;D
Thanks guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!! On another note, I still lament the takeover of the old forum, glad to find some of you here.
I'm a big fan of yhe cheap 5 minute epoxy sold at Harbor Freight. Comes in separate tubes, bonds everything, and even after a year or more the tubes are not dried out. I used it for my last Downtown Deco kit with great results.
Well for better or worse, it is done! Feel I should have put on a thicker layer of glue but so far, so good, recut out most of the openings and was able to fix a slight miscut on one of the doors, not that it will be scene as it will sit on the layout. Next up, filling in the stone on the corners, fiqued I would use plastic putty like you would on a styrene kit and recarve a bit when dry, any better ideas???????????????
A tube of Bondo is cheaper than styrene putty, and sticks better to things like the Campbell stone. http://www.amazon.com/Bondo-907-Glazing-Spot-Putty/dp/B0002JM8PY
dave
Is that carvable???????????
Quote from: rebel on August 16, 2015, 01:07:48 PM
Is that carvable? ??? ??? ??? ?
Yes, and sandable.
dave
Hi All:
I've used this many times. Best glue is 3m (I think the # is 465.) double faced tape. Its the best glue for everything.
Karl
Ok, got the tape, dose it gain strength over time? The bondo worked by the way. The finished product looks large compaired to other structures on the layout but I guess they realy were rather large buildings. Last thing to do is the roof, the tape is on but my test peice did not pass the stress test (thats why I asked about strength over time).
Hi Rebel:
There's only one way to go with this. 3M double faced adhesive. I used it on Microscale Models Quakertown Station which had Campbell Stone walls. It was the manufactureres suggestion. Works Great. I've been using it for years. It has so many uses. Think of never having to use glue to put rooofing on a roof card again. No mess no oozing glue and takes less than half the time. Or never using glue to apply signs to your buildings. I put my task board street down on the model I'm building now with it. All roofing and signs are applied with it also. FSM JS-18 Westside Auto. There's A company called U-Line that sells it. You get the best deal there. You'll be working on something and you'll say oh I can use this tape for that application instead of glue.
Karl
Well I did use the tape on the roof (didn't do the corrugated stuff yet, worked on other parts like layout prep). The tape0.
was easy to cut and apply and fairly easy to trim in place and fix mistakes. Dose not hold as well at first but that is why I asked about strength over time. It was nice to have a built in spray mask for the roof though. How did you cut the corrugation, I am thinking of just scissors as it seemed to work well for the tests? Also toying with the idea of brush painting the corrugation as that would do away with having to mask around the copula?
Hi Rebel:
They use this stuff to assemble some parts of real trucks. It is full strength when applied.
Karl
Hi Rebel:
The correct stock number is 3M Transfer Tape #465. You can get it from Doug Foscale @ $27.95 a roll.
Karl
That is the number I got! The carpet tape I have actually holds better but I hear it is bad long term, that's why I went with the recommended $465. Went with 1/2" as it was so cheap, like $13 out the door on e-bay and since I hadn't tried it before. If I like it when all said and done, I will get the 1" also.
Hi Rebel:
Sounds good. glad you like it.
Karl