Campbell's stone, how to glue

[rebel]

Building a Campbell structure and tried to use contact cement, no go, also tried Boyds, better but still no! Rather than reinvent the wheel, what have you used that worked?

[deemery]

I can tell you what NOT to use, Walthers Goo!   Or anything else that is solvent based.  (I started this years ago, used Goo, and the walls warped terribly.)

If I were building this now, I'd try transfer tape!  Or "Goop" from ModelBuildersSupply.com  (This is a water soluble glue that is designed to laminate dissimilar materials, including styrene to cardboard.)

dave

[martin.ojaste]

White glue or epoxy will work in many cases.

[rebel]

I can tell you what NOT to use, Walthers Goo!   Or anything else that is solvent based.  (I started this years ago, used Goo, and the walls warped terribly.)

If I were building this now, I'd try transfer tape!  Or "Goop" from ModelBuildersSupply.com  (This is a water soluble glue that is designed to laminate dissimilar materials, including styrene to cardboard.)

dave

Forgot about transfer tape, and I have some. Never liked it for roofing but it may be what I need for this and way less messy!!!!!

[ACL1504]

Rebel,

When I glued the foundation on Campbell's Grandma's House I used Titebond. It's been on the house for 35+ years and still tight.

That said, I'm not sure they are using the same type plastic for the stone wall as they did back then. Just saying.

Tom

[rebel]

Good point but this is an old kit, good thing too because I got a more recent kit of theirs off e-bay and the wood was terrible, almost all of it. Still used the walls.  corners and windows  but most everything else was from my stuff. Don't know if I have any Tightbond but used to. Did test of Ailenes (proubly misspelled), Durabond and ACC, we shall see, have to try Tightbond now, learning to love styrene at this point!

[deemery]

White glue or epoxy will work in many cases.

Regular (Elmers) white glue won't stick to the plastic stone sheeting (tried that first.)  Epoxy would probably work.


dave

[rebel]

Still had some Tightbond, doing a test. One of the others, Quick Grip worked.

[rebel]

Just checked the garage, Tightbond wins, holds just as well as the Quick Grip but way less toxic, less time to set and you can see when it has set! Now should I weigh it down as it sets, like put a board over it with a weight??

[rebel]

Oh, and thanks for the tip, would never have guess that would work.

[deemery]

Does QuickGrip have a solvent smell?  Would stay away from anything that smells 'solventy'.  Glad to hear Tightbond works. 


That's a great kit, I'm looking forward to see what you do with it.


dave

[ACL1504]

Just checked the garage, Tightbond wins, holds just as well as the Quick Grip but way less toxic, less time to set and you can see when it has set! Now should I weigh it down as it sets, like put a board over it with a weight? ?

Rebel,

Yes, weight it down. I did mine as the Titebond is a water base glue. Weighting it down will prevent warping as it dries.

I'm glad I could be of some help. Like I said mine is still tight after all these long years.

Tom

[rebel]

Thanks guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  On another note, I still lament the takeover of the old forum, glad to find some of you here.

[rpdylan]

I'm a big fan of yhe cheap 5 minute epoxy sold at Harbor Freight. Comes in separate tubes, bonds everything, and even after a year or more the tubes are not dried out. I used it for my last Downtown Deco kit with great results.

[rebel]

Well for better or worse, it is done! Feel I should have put on a thicker layer of glue but so far, so good, recut out most of the openings and was able to fix a slight miscut on one of the doors, not that it will be scene as it will sit on the layout. Next up, filling in the stone on the corners, fiqued I would use plastic putty like you would on a styrene kit and recarve a bit when dry, any better ideas???