I have a need for a small back road restaurant for the railroad workers.
I'm going to build Bar Mills Sweaty Betty's. I've never build a Bar Mills kit so I thought I'd use this opportunity to check Bar Mills off my list of kits I've built of different manufacturers.
Here is the obligatory start photos.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-311217171529.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-311217171529.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-311217171549.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-311217171549.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-311217171601.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-311217171601.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-311217171614.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-311217171614.jpeg)
I've built a couple of Bar Mills' kits. Really like them.
Tom
It's good to see you getting in on the challenge. I will be following along.
Like "Rollin", I built three Bar Mills kits without any problem!
Wasn't I just looking at that kit at your place? I'll be watching. ;)
Hi Tom,, I built this one a few years ago. It is featured on my "Mill Falls" layout. It's a nice kit - enjoy!
Mike
I'll be following along as well. I wasn't aware that you've never built a Bar Mills kit. I've tackled a few over the past several years and I've always been happy with the end result. :D
Hi Tom:
That's a great kit. I built one somewhere along the line. I will also be following along.
Karl
You know I can't resist....so I'll be tagging along.
Quote from: Rollin on December 31, 2017, 07:07:47 PM
I've built a couple of Bar Mills' kits. Really like them.
Rollin,
Thanks for checking in. It looks like it will be a fun build.
Tom ;D
Quote from: S&S RR on December 31, 2017, 07:18:13 PM
Tom
It's good to see you getting in on the challenge. I will be following along.
John,
Yes, it is good to be in on the challenge. Thanks for following along.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Pol.lux on December 31, 2017, 08:15:41 PM
Like "Rollin", I built three Bar Mills kits without any problem!
Pol.lux,
Thanks, I have several but never built one. Busy with other projects I guess.
Tom ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on January 01, 2018, 09:17:32 AM
Wasn't I just looking at that kit at your place? I'll be watching. ;)
Greg,
Uh, yes you were in fact looking at this kit. Thanks for following along.
Tom ;D
Quote from: madharry on January 01, 2018, 09:36:25 AM
Hi Tom,, I built this one a few years ago. It is featured on my "Mill Falls" layout. It's a nice kit - enjoy!
Mike
Mike,
Thanks, I think I remember seeing the diner in some of your photos. You did a great job on yours.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ReadingBob on January 01, 2018, 10:26:45 AM
I'll be following along as well. I wasn't aware that you've never built a Bar Mills kit. I've tackled a few over the past several years and I've always been happy with the end result. :D
Bob,
Thanks for following. I have several of the Bar Mills kits but don't like the slot/tab and peal and stick in most of these kits.
It is a great little structure and will have a place of honor on the A&S RR.
Tom ;D
Quote from: postalkarl on January 01, 2018, 12:23:43 PM
Hi Tom:
That's a great kit. I built one somewhere along the line. I will also be following along.
Karl
Karl,
Thanks for following along. I have a few pictures of the kit you build for Art. I'll be posting them later this evening.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Donato on January 02, 2018, 01:01:46 PM
You know I can't resist....so I'll be tagging along.
Donato,
It's always my pleasure to have you tag along on any of my adventures.
Tom ;D
Okay,
I'm off on the build. Many of ya'll know my builds are a bit lengthy but I try to cover all the things I'm doing for the build, like how and why.
I don't want old timers like Jimmillho and Donato to miss anything either.
I spent the better part of an hour reviewing the instructions and looking at all the parts and pieces. I'm not a big fan of slot/tab and peal and stick kits but the ones I've built have turned out just fine.
As I mentioned, I've never built one of Art's Bar Mills kits but I do have plenty of them on my "to be built" stash.
Our Karl Sholtz built one of these kits and did a wonderful job as well. I don't know if he built the pilot model for Art or not; however, Art did give Karl credit for a Sweaty Betty's build and included several photos of Karl's build.
The following pictures were taken from the instructions.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020118152545.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020118152545.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020118152602.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020118152602.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020118152616.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020118152616.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020118152630.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020118152630.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020118152643.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020118152643.jpeg)
The main two colors on Sweaty Betty's are Caboose Red and Depot Buff.
I don't have any red on any of the structures on the layout so I'll follow the instructions and use these two colors.
I always start my kit builds by sanding the edges of the pieces cut by the laser. The laser cuts at a slight angle and I want the sides to be square. You can use a North West Short Line Perfect Sander or do what I do and use a small piece of fine 220 grit sand paper.
I hold the wall section on the side and gently move it back and forth until the burnt edge is removed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020118152656.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020118152656.jpeg)
The bottom of these walls have a tab so I use the fine side of a Emory board to square the bottom edge. I didn't take a photo of this step.
I then did a test fit of pieces with the tab.
NOTE: I did't test the front wall sections as they are made of chip board and I'll paint them in the carrier sheets.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020118152709.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020118152709.jpeg)
More in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020118152723.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020118152723.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020118152736.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020118152736.jpeg)
Every thing fit fine.
More in a few.
The slotted base has a small side piece. This side piece is the base for the small sub structure to the left of the main diner.
I hand sanded the two pieces and edge glued them together. I used a weight to hold the two sections down while the glue dried over night.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020118152754.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020118152754.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020118152810.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020118152810.jpeg)
More in a few.
Following the instructions, I braced all the walls. The chip board wall bracing will be covered later in the build.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020118152930.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020118152930.jpeg)
The front sub structure wall shows the 1/8" bottom brace covering the inside bottom of the door opening. Prior to painting,
I went ahead and removed the portion covering the door opening.
I used a sharp #11 blade to carefully remove the excess bracing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020118152838.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020118152838.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020118152850.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020118152850.jpeg)
More in a few.
After all the bracing was glued in place, I used weights to hold the bracing while the glue dried. I then test fit the braced walls to ensure a proper fit.
All fit nicely.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020118152903.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020118152903.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020118152916.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020118152916.jpeg)
I forgot to mention I cleaned the few metal casting and set them aside. When the weather clears, I'll give them a good priming.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020118152824.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-020118152824.jpeg)
Tom,
Love your SBS on this build
Who needs instructions with you doing the building of this kit
When I 1st saw the color photo of the building I just knew it had to be one of Karl's builds. Something how all of his builds finish off in his fantastic way. You do not have to see his name & you just know he did it
Mike Sigmon
Quote from: MASIGMON on January 02, 2018, 07:27:47 PM
Tom,
Love your SBS on this build
Who needs instructions with you doing the building of this kit
When I 1st saw the color photo of the building I just knew it had to be one of Karl's builds. Something how all of his builds finish off in his fantastic way. You do not have to see his name & you just know he did it
Mike Sigmon
Mike,
Thank you, much appreciated. I have a correction to make in one of my last posts. It doesn't change the build any but I need to explain. I'll do it later this afternoon or evening.
Karl's builds are very unique and masterful.
Tom ;D
Ready to follow and looking forward to it, Tom. 👍🏻👍🏻
Glad to see you on the mend and contributing to the challenge . As usual, your a build ahead of everybody else!
Quote from: Dave K. on January 03, 2018, 09:01:57 AM
Ready to follow and looking forward to it, Tom. 👍🏻👍🏻
Dave,
Thanks, appreciate you checking in to follow. This looks like a fun kit to build. I'm going to do a little kit bashing as well.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Raymo on January 03, 2018, 09:29:57 AM
Glad to see you on the mend and contributing to the challenge . As usual, your a build ahead of everybody else!
Dan,
Thanks for stopping by. Yes, I'm doing much better now that the 32 stitches are out. I guess I should say I'm feeling up to the challenge. 8)
Tom ;D
Yesterday I incorrectly stated the front walls and trim were made of chip board. They are not. These sections are in fact 1/32" thick, or better yet, thin plywood. These are shown below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030118184656.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030118184656.jpeg)
Also, I forgot to mention my thoughts on bracing. I have always preferred to brace walls, if possible, prior to any painting or staining. Some modelers prefer to paint or stain first. I've found that I have less warping when bracing first.
Another thought is I don't like turning a painted surface face down while applying bracing. This can ruin the painted surface or get scratched, etc. etc.
Just personal preference but it works for me.
More in a few.
Another thought on painting as well. Even though I've decided on a certain color for a model, I've developed a habit of testing the colors on some scrap strip wood or spare wood in the kit.
As mentioned earlier, the kit is painted Depot Buff and Caboose Red. After looking at the Caboose Red, testing it on a sample piece of wood, it is just to red for me.
Here's what I did. When looking at the Caboose Red it appeared more pinkish and the Signal Red was much to red.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030118184807.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030118184807.jpeg)
I searched my paints and came up with a color a little more subdued that the reds in the Signal and Caboose Red.
Here are the colors I tested on some spare wood.
L to R -
Floquil Caboose Red, Floquil Signal Red, Polly Scale DTI Cherry Red and Polly Scale Pacemaker Red.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030118184755.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030118184755.jpeg)
More in a few.
Shown below is my test strip wood.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030118184739.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030118184739.jpeg)
The Floquil Depot Buff is in the middle of the four different reds.
On the lower left is the sample of the Floquil Caboose Red. This is to light and looks a little pinkish.
On the upper left is the Floquil Signal Red. Too red and bright looking.
On the upper right is the Polly Scale Pacemaker Red. A little more subdued/darker, not as bright.
On the lower right is the Polly Scale DTI Cherry Red. This takes on a Maroon look when painted on the strip wood.
Based on the samples and appearance of the reds, I've decided to use the Polly Scale Pacemaker Red. It doesn't appear to bright and blends better with the depot buff. My opinion only which is the one that counts. ;D ;D ;D
More in a few.
The upper portions for the walls were hand painted with full strength Floquil Depot Buff. You should always paint the lighter color on first so the darker color can cover any mistakes that may occur. The line should also help to keep the paint off the lower wall portion. Paint with the wood grain and not across the grain. In this case, north and south. For those in Longwood, it would be vertical. ;D
You may also choose to tape off the bottom wall portion if you don't have a steady hand. I can still paint free hand so this is a blessing at my age.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030118184710.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030118184710.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030118184723.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-030118184723.jpeg)
Hopefully I'll more to share tomorrow evening.
Off to a great start Tom , your choice of Red would have been mine too.
Great how to with the paint Tom.
Coming along nicely Tom. Thanks for the detailed explanations on how you do things. Very helpful.
Quote from: Janbouli on January 03, 2018, 07:40:33 PM
Off to a great start Tom , your choice of Red would have been mine too.
Jan,
Thanks very much. The Pacemaker Red turned out well. Photos later this evening.
Tom ;D
Quote from: PRR Modeler on January 03, 2018, 08:22:02 PM
Great how to with the paint Tom.
Curt,
Thank you as always, much appreciated.
Tom ;D
Quote from: MAP on January 04, 2018, 05:44:56 AM
Coming along nicely Tom. Thanks for the detailed explanations on how you do things. Very helpful.
Mark,
Thank you as well and you are very welcome.
Tom ;D
I painted the base with full strength Floquil Aged Concrete. I also painted the red on more of the fragile parts to be used on the kit later in the build.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040118164335.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040118164335.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040118164348.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040118164348.jpeg)
More in a few.
I also painted the bottom portion of the diner walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040118164402.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040118164402.jpeg)
This Bar Mills kit doesn't have the standard corner trim like most other kits. When you paint the walls, you should also plan to paint the edges as I've done and shown below.
I'm not sure all BM kits are like this but remember this is my first BM kit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040118164415.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040118164415.jpeg)
More in a few.
If you don't paint the edges of the walls, you may have a spot like this showing.
When you glue the walls to the base you certainly don't want any surprises.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040118164429.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040118164429.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040118164442.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040118164442.jpeg)
More in a few. Time for a Diet Pepsi break.
I decided to put and interior in Sweaty Betty's.
The kit came with a floor and wall covering. The floor and wall covering was sent in by Ed Livingston. I copied the floor and I'll show that later installed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040118164605.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040118164605.jpeg)
More in a few.
All the walls except the front and one side panel are horizontally braced. The front walls are braced with a vertucal outside column.
I wanted some support for the plain strip wood walls and needed to add vertical bracing.
The braces were cut using the NWSL Chopper.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040118164458.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040118164458.jpeg)
I glued them in place as shown below and added a bead of glue on top.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040118164514.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040118164514.jpeg)
Oh dang, I forgot to take pictures of the cut walls. Anyway, I got them glued to the interior.
More in a few.
Here are the interior walls. The line is a scale 4 feet from the floor. This line is for a color separation.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040118164529.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040118164529.jpeg)
With roof on - nothing is glued in place at this time.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040118164545.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040118164545.jpeg)
More in a few.
I removed the walls and glued the paper flooring in place. When dry, I reinstalled the walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040118164702.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040118164702.jpeg)
I removed the walls and painted the lower portion (below the line) a Mint Green. This green is very close to the Seaboard Mint Green on the SAL E units.
The label on the bottle says "sky". I've never seen a mint green sky but maybe they have them in Japan where the paint is manufactured. The paint is Tamiya
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040118164731.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040118164731.jpeg)
More in a few.
The green was painted full strength onto the walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040118164717.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040118164717.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040118164646.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040118164646.jpeg)
More in a few.
I wanted a nice light color to complement the mint green. We had a roadside diner in Orlando back in the 50's with light green and light yellow walls separated by a darker green.
I choose Polly Scale ATSF Catwhisker Yellow for the upper portion of the walls.
I also painted the edges of the interior walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040118164744.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040118164744.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040118164800.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040118164800.jpeg)
The wall painted in the left corner is level with each other. What you see is the angle of the picture.
Continued in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040118164823.jpeg)
I used a HO scale 1X6 and painted it full strength with Floquil Coach Green. When dry, I glued it to the top line of the mint green.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040118164842.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040118164842.jpeg)
Here is a look at the interior walls with the trim.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040118164856.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-040118164856.jpeg)
More tomorrow evening.
Tom
You are moving right along on this build. It looks great!
Looking absolutely wonderful Tom !!
I'm looking forward to the grand opening for some fries and a malt ...
I'll be following along as usual.
Happy modeling,
--Paul
Beautiful modeling Tom. I can't believe you can paint freehand in a straight line (I sure can't ).
Quote from: S&S RR on January 04, 2018, 07:58:52 PM
Tom
You are moving right along on this build. It looks great!
John,
Thank you.
Yes, I want to finish this build and get back to the layout work, er, I mean play. ;D ;D
Tom ;D
Quote from: PaulS on January 04, 2018, 08:02:44 PM
Looking absolutely wonderful Tom !!
I'm looking forward to the grand opening for some fries and a malt ...
I'll be following along as usual.
Happy modeling,
--Paul
Paul,
Thank you, much appreciated. The Grand Opening isn't to far off.
Taking for following along.
Tom ;D
Quote from: PRR Modeler on January 04, 2018, 08:13:01 PM
Beautiful modeling Tom. I can't believe you can paint freehand in a straight line (I sure can't ).
Curt,
Thanks very much for the kind compliment. I can paint a straight line as long as I have a line to follow. ;D ;D
Tom 8)
This morning I glued the back and right side wall to the base. The base is 1/16" Bass wood. The Elmer's carpenter glue is water based and after gluing the walls in place, I added weights and clamps to the model to hold it all in place until dry.
This will prevent the base from warping as the glue dries.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050118160624.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050118160624.jpeg)
I then set the assembly to the side to dry.
More in a few.
The kit includes two doors that you can add screens to if you desire. Below is a photo of one of the doors and the screen material that came in the kit.
I thought the black screen material was a bit thick and out of scale for me.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050118160640.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050118160640.jpeg)
Several years ago I bought my own screen from Joan's Fabrics. I discovered it one day while watching my wife wrap a gift. She was using a silver colored ribbon. I asked her where she got it and she informed me it came from Joan's.
That afternoon I bought a whole spool of the screen, er, ribbon.
I now have enough HO scale screen material to last a few HO life times.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050118160655.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050118160655.jpeg)
More in a few.
The ribbon material is very flexible and looks perfect for HO scale screen material.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050118160708.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050118160708.jpeg)
I cut a piece of the ribbon for the screen. The door has the adhesive backing and I pressed the door onto the material.
I then used a sharp #11 blade to trim off the excess ribbon.
Now I have a screen in the door.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050118160721.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050118160721.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050118160733.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050118160733.jpeg)
I installed the door from the back of the wall. I noticed I could see a tiny gap between the wall and door that allowed some light to pass through.
I added a small bead of glue around the inside of the door and wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050118160747.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050118160747.jpeg)
By the way, the hole in the top of the wall is for wires from the LEDs I'll be installing.
More in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050118160802.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050118160802.jpeg)
Prior to adding the glue, I already painted the door for the inside. The kit includes four doors and there are only two door openings. The instructions mention you can glue the doors together if desired. I painted the second door to match the interior colors.
I then installed the interior door and pushed it into the glue.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050118160815.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050118160815.jpeg)
More in a few.
Here is the diner door. No gaps or light shinning except through the screen. 8) 8)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050118160846.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050118160846.jpeg)
The door on the left goes to the kitchen. You can also get a good view of the new screen. It will be weathered later.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050118160828.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-050118160828.jpeg)
I have much more of the build done and will show some of it tomorrow affternoon.
Tom,
Do you have a Sweaty Betty to work the lunch shift yet?
Might look @ Preiser 10275 Baker Krause (wife or girlfriend)
Mike Sigmon
Tom coming on nicely for someone who came next to last in some contest once, Uh I came last! duh!
Mike :'(
Really coming along nicely Tom. I like the use of Joann's fabric material for the screen. I will be stopping by there to pick some up! The interior paint job on your kit looks better than any room in my house!
Quote from: MASIGMON on January 05, 2018, 05:30:22 PM
Tom,
Do you have a Sweaty Betty to work the lunch shift yet?
Might look @ Preiser 10275 Baker Krause (wife or girlfriend)
Mike Sigmon
Mike,
I have several figures that can fit the position. I haven't seen this set but it does look promising as well.
Tom ;D
Quote from: madharry on January 05, 2018, 05:40:10 PM
Tom coming on nicely for someone who came next to last in some contest once, Uh I came last! duh!
Mike :'(
Mike,
Thank you. Yea, for a couple of modeling hacks we ain't half bad at building models. ;D ;D ;D ;D
I think they got the list reversed. We all know you came first and me second, instead of second to last.
Tom ;D
Quote from: MAP on January 05, 2018, 06:17:10 PM
Really coming along nicely Tom. I like the use of Joann's fabric material for the screen. I will be stopping by there to pick some up! The interior paint job on your kit looks better than any room in my house!
Mark,
Thank you. The screen fabric looks very realistic, can be weathered, torn and/or cut.
I'm looking for some HO scale stuff to put on the walls. For a greasy spoon diner I guess I should add some A&I to the interior walls.
Tom ;D
The front walls are supported by five 3/32" square posts. The kit includes a template for cutting the posts. I found the template just a little off on the short side. When the roof was added the difference didn't really make a difference.
However, I can't build a model and have is almost fit or just a little bit off especially on the short side.
I put one section of wall in the base slot and then added the post. I used a pencil to mark the correct height where the post needed to be cut.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060118174639.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060118174639.jpeg)
I did this for each front wall support post.
I then test fit the wall section on the right side.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060118174705.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060118174705.jpeg)
More in a few.
I then installed the window glass/clear acetate. I left the protective paper over the acetate until the window was finished.
If you notice the trim at the bottom of the window you'll see that it is cut short. This is why 1) I put this window on the right side and 2) the reason I didn't follow the template for the front wall posts.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060118174719.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060118174719.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060118174731.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060118174731.jpeg)
More in a few.
Since this window can be seen from the front, I hand painted the inside of the window to match the interior colors.
The white paper on the top is the back side of the Venetian blinds. I glued this one section of the wall to the base.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060118174803.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060118174803.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060118174747.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060118174747.jpeg)
More in a few.
I then finished the other front wall sections. This included the front door section also.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060118174817.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060118174817.jpeg)
Notice the trim on these sections fit. They were cut to fit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060118174830.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060118174830.jpeg)
Done for the night.
Great tutorial.👍🏻
Looking good Tom..... 8)
Beautiful job Tom.
This looks simply wonderful Tom! Well, done! Well done indeed!
P.S. - Since you have enough of that screen material to last several HO scale lifetimes remind me to 'borrow' enough to last for one HO scale lifetime the next time I drop in. ;)
Coming along fantastically, Tom!
And as always a great tutorial to boot.
Cheers, Mark.
Tom
Great modeling! I'm enjoying following along.
Tom, supremo work....love those doors, the trim is impressive...even down to the hinges on the main entry doors.
Tom - Enjoying watching you build. I did the same kit several years ago. Tried to load pictures but had file size issues. Ran into the same problems you hi lighted but in the end it's need and has a place on my layout. Jim
Quote from: Dave K. on January 07, 2018, 09:26:09 AM
Great tutorial.👍🏻
Dave,
Thank you, much appreciated.
Tom ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on January 07, 2018, 09:37:03 AM
Looking good Tom..... 8)
Greg,
Thank you kind sir.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ReadingBob on January 07, 2018, 10:36:34 AM
This looks simply wonderful Tom! Well, done! Well done indeed!
P.S. - Since you have enough of that screen material to last several HO scale lifetimes remind me to 'borrow' enough to last for one HO scale lifetime the next time I drop in. ;)
Bob,
Thank you for the generous and very kind compliment on the build. Once I got into the build, I realized how much I missed building structures.
I cut off about a yard of screen material for you. It should last you a lifetime and many others as well. :P
Now, I only have 58 yards left. :o :o :o It's here when you are ready to pick it up.
Tom ;D
Quote from: mark dalrymple on January 07, 2018, 07:50:11 PM
Coming along fantastically, Tom!
And as always a great tutorial to boot.
Cheers, Mark.
Mark,
I very much appreciate the compliment on the build and narrative. This has been a better kit to build than anticipated. Of course I enjoy adding my own little things to the build.
Tom ;D
Quote from: S&S RR on January 07, 2018, 09:11:10 PM
Tom
Great modeling! I'm enjoying following along.
John,
Thank you my friend. I'm enjoying the build.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Donato on January 08, 2018, 11:52:03 AM
Tom, supremo work....love those doors, the trim is impressive...even down to the hinges on the main entry doors.
Donato,
Thank you also my kind friend. The door hinges were painted with Model Masters Jet Exhaust. I still need to paint the door handles.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jrmueller on January 08, 2018, 06:07:42 PM
Tom - Enjoying watching you build. I did the same kit several years ago. Tried to load pictures but had file size issues. Ran into the same problems you hi lighted but in the end it's need and has a place on my layout. Jim
Jim,
Thanks for stopping by and checking in. The kit has one of two small problems but nothing that can't be fixed during the build. I like to point these out so others will be aware of the fixes.
Feel free to post your pictures if you get the size issue resolved.
Tom ;D
As Donato noted I painted the front door hinges. I used Model Masters Jet Exhaust for the hinges and I still need to paint the door knobs and plate brass.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060118174844.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-060118174844.jpeg)
The kit also has several small corbels for the top of each wall post. These are to be glued to the top of each post with the two corner posts getting two, one on each front and side.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100118141520.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100118141520.jpeg)
More in a few.
These get glued flush at the top.
I used a square to make sure they were all flush at the top.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100118141534.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100118141534.jpeg)
I noticed also that the one top left interior wall brace could be seen from a front view. To solve this problem, I used a sharp #11 blade and shaved the corner as seen in the photo below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100118141548.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100118141548.jpeg)
I painted the shaved end with the Polly Scale ATSF Catwhisker Yellow - same color as the upper walls.
More in a few.
Duh, smarty me! I realized when the blinds are attached to the rear of the window this braced I just spent an hour fixing won't even show. ??? ???
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100118141600.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100118141600.jpeg)
Time for a Diet Pepsi.
As I mentioned in an earlier post, the back of the walls have an adhesive that holds the clear acetate windows in place.
I pealed the backing off to expose the adhesive.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100118141622.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100118141622.jpeg)
To ensure I didn't get finger prints/smudges on the windows, I used tweezers to install/place the acetate.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100118141635.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100118141635.jpeg)
I placed the acetate window at the bottom of the upper tab. The window then fits perfectly between the wall sections.
More in a few.
I then test fit all the front walls (not glued) into the slots on the base.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100118141652.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100118141652.jpeg)
I then installed the roof section (not glued) on top to make sure nothing needed to be adjusted.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100118141706.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100118141706.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
Tom,
I don't see any scars, stitches or cancer spots, but momma needs to get you to a manicurist pronto! xoxoxo Thanx Thom...
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100118141720.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100118141720.jpeg)
I noticed a portion of the right interior wall was painted as the interior.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100118141733.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100118141733.jpeg)
This is an excellent reason to not glue but to test fit walls first.
More in a few.
I marked the window using a pencil.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100118141747.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100118141747.jpeg)
I then hand painted the wall post with the Floquil Depot Buff.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100118141805.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100118141805.jpeg)
More in a few.
Problem fixed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100118141819.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100118141819.jpeg)
I'll post more updates tomorrow evening.
Tom ;D
Beautiful work Tom.
Great job so far Tom , love the colors and your painting skills.
Quote from: Janbouli on January 10, 2018, 07:47:30 PM
Great job so far Tom , love the colors and your painting skills.
I love his skills skills....!!!
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fblogs.oregonstate.edu%2Fcareerservices%2Ffiles%2F2013%2F09%2FI-got-a-skill-set.jpg&hash=b7f9421f5ab4b715b7354961e7c2aef25bbb52fd)
Hi Tom:
Betty's is coming along quite nicely. I'm following along.
Karl
Quote from: PRR Modeler on January 10, 2018, 06:56:55 PM
Beautiful work Tom.
Curt,
Thank you, much appreciate you following along.
Tom ;D
Quote from: tct855 on January 10, 2018, 06:36:16 PM
Tom,
I don't see any scars, stitches or cancer spots, but momma needs to get you to a manicurist pronto! xoxoxo Thanx Thom...
Thom,
Getting personal now are we? No need to clean the nails when building models. I let the Babe take care of little things like this. ;D ;D
I'm so offended by the comment I'm going out and stick my hands in the dirt for the next set of photos.
In my 33 years in law enforcement, I'm been insulted by professionals, you are a rank amateur.
XOXOXOXOXO Brother.
For those of you that may think KPI (Thom) and I are serious, not to worry.
We do this back and forth all the time, usually on the phone. I guess today he decided to come out of the closet.
Just saying so ya'll aren't concerned.
TKPII
Quote from: Janbouli on January 10, 2018, 07:47:30 PM
Great job so far Tom , love the colors and your painting skills.
Jan,
Thank you. The painting is easy when you do it as long as I've been sniffing the Floquil. Oh, it also helps to follow the lines. 8)
Tom ;D
Quote from: Donato on January 11, 2018, 01:12:38 PM
Quote from: Janbouli on January 10, 2018, 07:47:30 PM
Great job so far Tom , love the colors and your painting skills.
I love his skills skills....!!!
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fblogs.oregonstate.edu%2Fcareerservices%2Ffiles%2F2013%2F09%2FI-got-a-skill-set.jpg&hash=b7f9421f5ab4b715b7354961e7c2aef25bbb52fd) (http://blogs.oregonstate.edu/careerservices/files/2013/09/I-got-a-skill-set.jpg)
Donato,
Thank you, very much appreciated. I love your sense of humor. Don't ever stop my friend.
Tom :D
Quote from: postalkarl on January 11, 2018, 01:28:34 PM
Hi Tom:
Betty's is coming along quite nicely. I'm following along.
Karl
Karl,
Much appreciated, thank you.
Tom ;D
I made one final test fit of the front walls and roof section.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100118141833.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100118141833.jpeg)
I removed the roof and used the glue applicator with Flamingo Glue and glued the front walls in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100118141845.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100118141845.jpeg)
I then replaced the roof section to hold the front walls in the correct position while the glue dried. Notice in the photo above I only added the glue part way up the walls? Two reasons, 1) this glue needs to dry so the paper can be removed later and 2) so the interior lights, LEDs, don't shine between the wall sections.
After the glue is dry the paper will be removed and the upper portion of the walls will be glued.
More in a few.
The roof section is not glued in place at this time but weights were added to hold the front walls down and in place while the glue dries.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100118141857.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100118141857.jpeg)
I decided to keep the small window in the kitchen area one color and not trimmed in the Pacemaker Red.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100118141910.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100118141910.jpeg)
More in a few.
The outer window trim didn't fit and I needed to trim the bottom portion.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100118141924.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100118141924.jpeg)
Now it fits.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100118141956.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100118141956.jpeg)
More in a few.
I turned this wall section over and added glue around the edge of the door. Again, this is to prevent the light from shinning through once the interior is lit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100118141942.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100118141942.jpeg)
I then added the screen and exterior trim to the kitchen window.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100118142009.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-100118142009.jpeg)
More in a few. Time for a Diet Pepsi.
Tom
Enjoying the build - it is really turning out nice.
Fast forward and the front walls are glued and secure in place. I've also added the Venetian blinds.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110118160653.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110118160653.jpeg)
Since I'm lighting the interior, won't be using the window awnings. By adding them it restricts the view of the interior.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110118160806.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110118160806.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
Quote from: S&S RR on January 11, 2018, 05:18:10 PM
Tom
Enjoying the build - it is really turning out nice.
John,
Thank you kind sir. This has been a fun build and not the problem I thought it would be.
Tom ;D
Hi Tom:
Looks great. I agree on the awnings if you are adding lights & Interior. Keep the photo coming.
Karl
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 11, 2018, 05:28:21 PM
Fast forward and the front walls are glued and secure in place. I've also added the Venetian blinds.
If it wasn't for venetian blinds, it'd be curtains for all of us.
Quote from: postalkarl on January 11, 2018, 07:10:36 PM
Hi Tom:
Looks great. I agree on the awnings if you are adding lights & Interior. Keep the photo coming.
Karl
Karl,
Thank you buddy, much appreciated. I have plenty more photos to upload. I like the awnings but they just don't work with the interior lights.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Blazeman on January 12, 2018, 10:34:41 AM
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 11, 2018, 05:28:21 PM
Fast forward and the front walls are glued and secure in place. I've also added the Venetian blinds.
If it wasn't for venetian blinds, it'd be curtains for all of us.
Blazeman,
Good one! I was blind to that one coming. ;D ;D
Thanks for checking in.
Tom ;D
I'm almost finished with the build but I'm way behind on the thread.
May as well get started.
The kit comes with rolled roofing. It doesn't make any sense to have this type on a flat roof. I opted to do what Karl S. did on his build.
I cut a piece of Aluminum Oxide 120 grit sandpaper to fit the roof. I cut it to fit the entire roof area. More on this later.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110118160715.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110118160715.jpeg)
I then used a glue stick and spread the glue onto the back of the sandpaper.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110118160730.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110118160730.jpeg)
More in a few.
Hey Blazeman you're treading on my turf!!!!
How can I stop Tom.... ??? ? I'm on
(https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/12/bb/02/12bb02e6d99f81ecacf0c8cf7e8e61df.jpg) (https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/12/bb/02/12bb02e6d99f81ecacf0c8cf7e8e61df.jpg)
I set the roof under some weights and let it dry over night. The paper was nice and flat on the roof deck. Doesn't make sense to show a piece of sandpaper on the roof deck but heck, I took the photo.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110118160749.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-110118160749.jpeg)
I used a piece of 1/8 " sq. strip wood and marked on the bottom where the interior walls were located.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152010.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152010.jpeg)
More in a few.
I spent a few hours on the marquee signs. They were a bit tricksie and the instructions were less than clear and unambiguous.
I added the front sign and attached it flush with the bottom of the sign board and above the three tabs. Good thing I didn't glue it in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152038.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152038.jpeg)
Here is how it looked from the rear.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152052.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152052.jpeg)
NOTE:
The marquee sign should be glued to the sign board flush with the top. The sign will now cover the three tabs at the bottom.
More in a few.
I used the glue stick and spread the glue to the sign board and added the sign. I then placed it under some weights until it dried which was about and hour.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152105.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152105.jpeg)
I moved to some minor house cleaning. Looking at the next photo, you'll notice the red wall section extends down to the bottom of the base.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152532.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152532.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
This didn't look good to me so I used a small brush and painted the Floquil Aged Concrete on the wall to look more like the concrete base.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152555.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152555.jpeg)
Notice also in the photo there is a very small gap between the bottom of the door frame and concrete pad/base.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152543.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152543.jpeg)
More in a few.
I found the waste plywood was a good fit to fill the gap.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152625.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152625.jpeg)
I painted a portion of the plywood with the Floquil Aged Concrete.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152444.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152444.jpeg)
I cut the two pieces, one for each door, and glued them in place. When dry I painted the Aged Concrete to match the base.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152457.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152457.jpeg)
More in a few.
I forgot to mention and take a photo of the roof. I sprayed the roof with Floquil Weathered Black and let dry.
I then added a strip of HO scale 4x4 to the bottom side of the roof. This area is just behind the front wall and will prevent any light from the LEDs from shinning through.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152023.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152023.jpeg)
More after a Diet Pepsi break. ;D ;D
Back to the front wall marquee sign board.
I also forgot to mention and show how the paper sign should look/fit on the sign board.
This is how it looks from the rear. The sign fits flush at the top and covers the three tabs at the bottom.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152230.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152230.jpeg)
More tomorrow afternoon.
Looking good Tom.
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 12, 2018, 03:31:13 PM
Quote from: Blazeman on January 12, 2018, 10:34:41 AM
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 11, 2018, 05:28:21 PM
Fast forward and the front walls are glued and secure in place. I've also added the Venetian blinds.
If it wasn't for venetian blinds, it'd be curtains for all of us.
Blazeman,
Good one! I was blind to that one coming. ;D ;D
Thanks for checking in.
Tom ;D
Just a shade edgy for this Forum. These last posts should be draped in black to protect us more sensitive members.
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 12, 2018, 03:37:19 PM
The kit comes with rolled roofing. It doesn't make any sense to have this type on a flat roof.
Oops...never thought of that. Guilty of doing it on a gazzillion builds. 😳😱
Nice buns, Donato. 👍🏻
Great choice for the roofing Tom...... 8)
Quote from: MAP on January 13, 2018, 03:22:12 AM
Looking good Tom.
Mark,
Thank you kind sir, appreciate the compliment.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Dave K. on January 13, 2018, 09:20:07 AM
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 12, 2018, 03:31:13 PM
Quote from: Blazeman on January 12, 2018, 10:34:41 AM
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 11, 2018, 05:28:21 PM
Fast forward and the front walls are glued and secure in place. I've also added the Venetian blinds.
If it wasn't for venetian blinds, it'd be curtains for all of us.
Blazeman,
Good one! I was blind to that one coming. ;D ;D
Thanks for checking in.
Tom ;D
Just a shade edgy for this Forum. These last posts should be draped in black to protect us more sensitive members.
Dave,
I should have said it in Braille. 8)
Tom ;D
Quote from: Dave K. on January 13, 2018, 09:23:40 AM
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 12, 2018, 03:37:19 PM
The kit comes with rolled roofing. It doesn't make any sense to have this type on a flat roof.
Oops...never thought of that. Guilty of doing it on a gazzillion builds. 😳😱
Dave,
Not to feel bad, I've done my share as well.
Tom ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on January 13, 2018, 09:36:21 AM
Great choice for the roofing Tom...... 8)
Greg,
I agree, looks much better also.
Tom ;D
I spray painted the roof with Floquil Weathered Black. I set it off to the side for a few days to let the paint dry and cure.
I moved back to the sign marquee on both sides of the diner. This was a little tricksie as again the instructions weren't that clear. Or maybe I just didn't read that part. It will pay you to take your time here and test fit all the pieces to see how the two side pieces fit.
Here is what I discovered.
The paper signs are longer than the side sign board. Remember to glue the sign flush to the top of the sign board/marquee. The sign board has a small cut out portion that goes towards the front and next to one of the tabs. This cut out portion goes towards the front of the roof section.
The photo below shows the CORRECT placement of the paper signs. The paper signs should be flush with the back and extend over in the front. This little piece of paper covers the ends of the front sign.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152218.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152218.jpeg)
More in a few.
Notice in the next photo the trim fits on the side sign board the same as the paper sign. I placed the trim piece on the board and marked the center as shown below.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152118.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152118.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152149.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152149.jpeg)
Diet Pepsi time, back in a few.
The reason you want to mark the center is this is the location you want to place your paper sign. In the next photo you'll notice a white/blank separation between the two signs. This white portion goes over the area between the two pencil marks.
This white area is marked with a vertical line in the middle.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152205.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152205.jpeg)
Now that it is all perfectly clear, we can move on. Right?
Before the three marquee signs were glued to the roof, I turned the kit over and marked where the unpainted/exposed wood showed. I removed the roof and painted all the area with the Pacemaker Red.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152245.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152245.jpeg)
More in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152403.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152403.jpeg)
I then glued bracing to the underside of the roof deck. Notice the lines are not equal distance between each other. The two red lines mark where I will brace the roof in that location. The two red lines are directly behind the front wall posts and won't be seen when looking at the front and into the windows.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152311.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152311.jpeg)
More in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152324.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152324.jpeg)
I added the three marquee sign board by gluing them to the roof deck. I then used small weights to hold them in place while the glue dried.
NOTE: The roof in not glued in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152415.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152415.jpeg)
Continued in a few.
I added some minor dry brushing to the roof after the signs boards were dry.
I also decided to paint the top of the sign boards silver to represent an aluminum strip along the top of the signs. In the photo below I've left the silver paint a small portion to show you the area I painted silver.
Of course you can paint it red as Karl S. did on his build. I was going to add a small ridge cap instead of the silver paint. However, I find myself kit bashing to much and just don't have the time to do all the changes I want to make.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152430.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152430.jpeg)
More photos tomorrow.
I had drawn up an interior for the O scale Swetty Bettys but it was nixed (I think)..here's some pics
If you want I can probably cut you the parts to make the booths and counter in HO, you'll be on your own for for the stools, probably ca\n make out of dowels and wire. Or look on Shapeways and see if anyone has something similar...
let me know...
Jim,
Thanks for checking in on the build. And, I appreciate your offer but it won't be necessary. I have some booths and stools from Stella Scale Models Erie Cafe.
I cheated myself out of some room by pulling the wall in by the 1/8" sq. bracing. Due to this, my interior space will only accommodate five booths.
I should have just glued the interior wall directly to the inside of the rear wall. My interior was a thought after the bracing was already glued in place. I was to lazy to remove it and then add the rear wall.
Again, Jim, I appreciate the offer.
Tom ;D
Nice job Tom. Can't wait for the Grand Opening, I know what I will order....my mouth is watering in anticipation.
Quote from: Donato on January 14, 2018, 02:18:26 PM
Nice job Tom. Can't wait for the Grand Opening, I know what I will order....my mouth is watering in anticipation.
Donato,
Thank you. The Grand Opening is not to far off. I can smell the greasy burgers now.
Tom ;D
Here is a look at the concrete pad under the two doors after the small piece of wood was slipped in the gap.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140118142541.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140118142541.jpeg)
The roof signs are now in place and the sign boards are also glued to the roof base.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140118142625.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140118142625.jpeg)
More in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140118142625.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140118142609.jpeg)
I installed three of Slims LEDs, two in the main diner and one in the side kitchen.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140118142705.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140118142705.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140118142639.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140118142639.jpeg)
More in a few.
Truly beautiful job of modeling Tom.
This is a better view of the lighted interior of the diner.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140118142653.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140118142653.jpeg)
The roof still needs the roof detail - the AC unit and the Sweaty Betty's sign.
I'll add the pitch/tar around the insides edges of the roof tomorrow. I've lightly weathered the roof top and back sides of the sign boards with Model Masters Light Ivory.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140118142829.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-140118142829.jpeg)
Hopefully I'll have more photo of some progress tomorrow.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on January 14, 2018, 05:05:45 PM
Truly beautiful job of modeling Tom.
Curt,
I truly thank you my friend. Looking forward to your visit this coming Saturday. Meaning six Saturdays from today.
Tom ;D
no problem, nice job BTW...
Great thread, as always! 👍🏻👍🏻
Wow! Great job!
Tom, the lighting inside the structure is very realistic
Mike Sigmon
Quote from: JimMooney on January 14, 2018, 05:59:33 PM
no problem, nice job BTW...
Jim,
Again, it was very generous and kind on your part to offer to cut the booths. I would call that Superior Customer Service.
Thank you for the kind compliment on the build.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Dave K. on January 15, 2018, 08:13:43 AM
Great thread, as always! 👍🏻👍🏻
Dave,
Thank you, much appreciate the compliment.
Tom ;D
Quote from: MASIGMON on January 15, 2018, 09:27:53 AM
Wow! Great job!
Tom, the lighting inside the structure is very realistic
Mike Sigmon
Mike,
Thank you for the very kind compliment on the build and lighting. I appreciate you looking in.
Tom ;D
Sweaty Betty's construction work continues after the subs took a little break.
I primed the wood roof sign with Polly Scale ATSF Cat Whisker Yellow and let dry. When dry I painted the edges of the Sweaty Betty's roof sign with Floquil Old Silver as I did with the roof marquee signs.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152516.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-120118152516.jpeg)
When that dried I added the Sweaty Betty's sign. I built frame work to support the roof sign.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180118165949.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180118165949.jpeg)
More in a few.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180118170016.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180118170016.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180118170004.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180118170004.jpeg)
More in a few and after I grab a cold Diet Pepsi.
I changed things up a little on the side kitchen roof. I took scale 2x4s and glued them flush to the top of the roof card stock.
Bottom view -
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180118170224.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180118170224.jpeg)
Top view -
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180118170211.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180118170211.jpeg)
More in a few.
I then painted the 2x4's, top and bottom, with the trim color, Polly Scale Pacemaker Red.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180118170115.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180118170115.jpeg)
I also added two short braces to the underside of the roof deck.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180118170128.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180118170128.jpeg)
More in a few.
I then added the rolled roofing paper supplied by Bar Mills. The nail holes were already embossed in the paper.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180118170139.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180118170139.jpeg)
I forgot to show this view of the 2X4's flush with the top of the roof deck. So, here ya go! ;D
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180118170156.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180118170156.jpeg)
More in a few.
I painted the roof paper with full strength Floquil Primer. The roof stack was painted with Floquil Rail Brown. When dry, I dipped the vent in some Hunterline Light Gray A&I.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180118170241.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180118170241.jpeg)
I'll let the Primer cure for a day and then I'll add weathering.
Here is a look at the roof from a rear view. You can see I've added tar around the edges on the inside of the marquee sign. Sweaty Betty's sign is not glued at this time.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180118170033.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-180118170033.jpeg)
More in a few.
Hi Tom:
Looks great.
Karl
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 12, 2018, 03:37:19 PM
I'm almost finished with the build but I'm way behind on the thread.
May as well get started.
The kit comes with rolled roofing. It doesn't make any sense to have this type on a flat roof. I opted to do what Karl S. did on his build.
I cut a piece of Aluminum Oxide 120 grit sandpaper to fit the roof. I cut it to fit the entire roof area. More on this later.
You are a true craftsman! Dumb question, is this plain ol' sandpaper or something different?
Wow! You are really making some great progress Tom. Does Betty take credit cards or cash only? I'm ready to try out something from her menu!
Love the sign!
Quote from: Bobby on January 18, 2018, 11:47:22 PM
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 12, 2018, 03:37:19 PM
I'm almost finished with the build but I'm way behind on the thread.
May as well get started.
The kit comes with rolled roofing. It doesn't make any sense to have this type on a flat roof. I opted to do what Karl S. did on his build.
I cut a piece of Aluminum Oxide 120 grit sandpaper to fit the roof. I cut it to fit the entire roof area. More on this later.
You are a true craftsman! Dumb question, is this plain ol' sandpaper or something different?
Bobby,
Thank you, much appreciated. The sandpaper is plain ole sandpaper from Ace Hardware.
Tom ;D
Quote from: MAP on January 19, 2018, 06:04:07 AM
Wow! You are really making some great progress Tom. Does Betty take credit cards or cash only? I'm ready to try out something from her menu!
Mark,
Thanks, I appreciate it. Not sure what is in the water but I keep drinking it. Not sure what Betty takes either and don't want to know! 8)
Tom ;D
Quote from: Dave K. on January 19, 2018, 06:24:02 AM
Love the sign!
Dave,
Bar Mills did do a great sign for this kit. I love it also.
Tom ;D
Okay, let's finish Sweaty Betty's Diner.
I think it's time ya'll meet Betty. Betty says any fly in the soup is free! ???
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190118154826.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190118154826.jpeg)
More in a few.
Here is where I left off yesterday.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190118141121.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190118141121.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190118141135.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190118141135.jpeg)
More in a few.
I weathered the small kitchen roof using pastel chalks. I used a dark gray and a medium stiff brush to "paint" the chalk just under each row of rolled roofing paper.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190118141158.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190118141158.jpeg)
I lightly blew off the excess chalk. I then used various shades of gray but this time drew the brush from top to bottom until I was satisfied with the look.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190118141216.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190118141216.jpeg)
More in a few.
I decided to add a small spot light for Betty's sign.
I used Slims .025" OD(outside diameter) stainless tubing for the conduit. I used Slim's HO scale 18" aluminum lampshade.
The LED was slipped through the tubing and then bent to shape. I glued the conduit to the rear of Betty's sign.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190118141233.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190118141233.jpeg)
By the way, I neglected to mention how I weather the marquee signs. I made a change from lightly sanding the front and then gluing them in place.
This time I used a Q-tip dipped into some dirty thinner and lightly rubbed the Q-tip on the front of the sign. I moved from top to bottom just as the rain would weathering the sign over time.
The dirty thinner bleeds the sign color to the desired effect.
If you try this method only swipe the Q-tip twice from top to bottom. This is what I did and the blending of the colors was very satisfactory.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190118141247.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190118141247.jpeg)
More in a few.
The roof top AC was assembled per the instructions. I painted it with Floquil Old Silver. When dry I dipped a brush in some Floquil Rail Brown followed by some dirty thinner and dabbed the brown on the top and sides.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190118141259.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190118141259.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190118141313.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190118141313.jpeg)
More in a few.
In this rear view you can see the top of the AC unit, the wires on the back of the sign painted black to match the sign support posts, the light conduit and lamp shade. The tar pitch around the sign posts was made by using Gallery Glass Liquid Leading.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190118141328.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190118141328.jpeg)
It's now time for a Diet Pepsi, back in a few.
This is a better look at the roof stuff.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190118141437.jpeg)
Sweaty Betty's is essentially finished. I only need to add the interior details but that is separate from the build challenge.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190118141342.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190118141342.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190118141355.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190118141355.jpeg)
I'll come back the build thread when the interior is finished and installed.
More in a few.
Betty's Diner is now located on the real estate where she will serve hundreds of railroad workers and any other victims that may find her joint!
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190118141412.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190118141412.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190118162823.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190118162823.jpeg)
More in a few.
As I mentioned at the start of this thread, Sweaty Betty's Diner is the first Bar Mills kit I've built.
I also mentioned I wasn't a fan of slot and tab construction.
I was extremely satisfied with how the kit turned out and my nay saying of the slot and tab construction was premature. The walls went together very easily and I found no significant issues in the construction of the kit.
I've had this kit for about 10 years and have wanted to build it for about that length of time.
There was a lot of fun in building it and it is the type of structure that will fit almost anywhere on the layout. My Betty's is going to serve the railroad workers near the lubritorium and FOS' Mud Flap Cafe & Truck Stop.
Thank you Art and Jim for a great little structure.
Tom ;D
Betty and her pet fly says, "Hi ya'll".
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190118154826.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/24-190118154826.jpeg)
Tom
Great looking build and excellent build thread! Where have I seen Betty before???
Quote from: S&S RR on January 19, 2018, 05:27:19 PM
Tom
Great looking build and excellent build thread! Where have I seen Betty before???
Wasn't she working the breakfast room in Peabody....
Beautiful job Tom.
Tom,
As always, a detailed thread with clear explanations of the process, ending with a beautiful structure. Looking forward to the second installment when the interior comes to life.
Glad you liked it..
BTW, I'm a really big of tabs and slots, but sometimes they are needed. For instance to align walls on a base or give you a target when gluing a wall into he middle of another to keep it square. Some people say it limits their ability to kit-bash, but we don't think so. most of the ones we put in really wouldn't affect that too much.
Nice job!
Quote from: S&S RR on January 19, 2018, 05:27:19 PM
Tom
Great looking build and excellent build thread! Where have I seen Betty before???
John,
Thank you, much appreciated. I think there is a Sweaty Betty in every city across the fruited plain.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Raymo on January 19, 2018, 06:16:44 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on January 19, 2018, 05:27:19 PM
Tom
Great looking build and excellent build thread! Where have I seen Betty before???
Wasn't she working the breakfast room in Peabody....
Raymo,
I didn't see her in the little depot. I was to busy watching the train. 8)
Tom ;D
Quote from: PRR Modeler on January 19, 2018, 07:46:54 PM
Beautiful job Tom.
Curt,
Thank you, much appreciated. Glad you got to see it this morning.
I enjoyed your visit.
Tom ;D
Quote from: jerryrbeach on January 20, 2018, 06:06:45 AM
Tom,
As always, a detailed thread with clear explanations of the process, ending with a beautiful structure. Looking forward to the second installment when the interior comes to life.
Jerry,
Thank you for the kind compliment on the build. It sure was fun putting the interior walls in place. I have some ideas for the interior I'll share when I get the furniture.
Tom ;D
Quote from: JimMooney on January 20, 2018, 08:42:40 AM
Glad you liked it..
BTW, I'm a really big of tabs and slots, but sometimes they are needed. For instance to align walls on a base or give you a target when gluing a wall into he middle of another to keep it square. Some people say it limits their ability to kit-bash, but we don't think so. most of the ones we put in really wouldn't affect that too much.
Nice job!
Jim,
Thanks for the generous compliment on the build.
This really was a great kit to build. I agree in that the slot and tabs wouldn't interfere with a kit bash. I got this kit the day I saw it advertised.
Again, thanks for a great little structure and also for the offer of some interior booths. I appreciated the offer.
Tom ;D
Tom,
Great job building this classic diner...but looking at it is making me really hungry.
Tommy
Quote from: tom.boyd.125 on January 22, 2018, 05:51:01 PM
Tom,
Great job building this classic diner...but looking at it is making me really hungry.
Tommy
Tommy,
Thank you for the kind compliment on the diner. I can smell the burgers now. Or is that all the cooked grease.
This is a great little Greasy Spoon Diner.
Tom ;D
Nice build, Tom. At last the railroaders will have a place to eat. :)
Jeff
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on January 23, 2018, 07:39:34 AM
Nice build, Tom. At last the railroaders will have a place to eat. :)
Jeff
Jeff,
Thank you, much appreciated. The burgers may be greasy but they are good. ;D
Tom ;D
Wonderfully executed build Tom. You made Betty's look better than it should....(can I stop looking now?)
Quote from: Donato on January 23, 2018, 01:49:00 PM
Wonderfully executed build Tom. You made Betty's look better than it should....(can I stop looking now?)
Donato,
You are very kind and generous with your compliment, thank you.
Look as long as you like.
Tom ;D