Happy 4th to all here.....
It seems that we are having a rash of FSM builds on the Forum and I will be adding to the mix with this build, the Fine Scale Miniature kit #130.....Ezra Cooper's Garage.
I got this kit, along with the Rail Car Shed and Flagstop Station about 5 years ago when Bob Butts had a fire sale of a few of his FSM stash that he didn't think he would ever get around to building. Thanks Bob, these are fun kits and some of George's early works that I missed when he originally released them.
I had intended to rifle these kits for the castings to use on other builds, but after the my less than satisfying results with the CCK Low Company kit, I think this kit can be better used for practicing on my structure building skills. Also, none of the kits that I have ever built have the number or level of detail as the castings that are in this kit and it will be a new adventure for me.
So here goes.....obligatory box & content photos.
Exhibit #1 - (ECG-001)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-040520145449-441241719.jpeg)
Exhibit #2 - (ECG-002)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-040520145450-441281198.jpeg)
To demonstrate how the kit should look as completed, I have included a photo of Frank Baker's build. I don't remember getting this from you Frank, but thanks for the photo and beautifully done.
Exhibit #3 - (ECG-003)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-040520145450-441292014.jpeg)
To begin.....I made copies of George's templates and instructions. I then checked the templates to make sure they were the exact size as the original.....sometimes when they are reproduced, the process can make the copy a bit smaller or larger.
I started with the wall framing on the rear wall. The structure has post and beam type construction and I mostly followed the instructions as George wrote them. The bottom and top plates and studs are 6"x6", however, I thought that since the local of the scene on the layout will be in the Rockies, the top plate should be more substantial too handle the snow loads, so a 6"x8" was specified instead.
I checked in the stash and I have everything but a 6"x8" size.....what to do? Only one choice, call my LHS and inquired if Mr. Langford had that size in stock. As luck would have it, he had an unopened bag in his stash from 30 years ago. Thanks Tom.....
The other change I made was to the horizontal blocking for the siding. As you can see in the photo of the template below, George didn't include the blocking required for nailing the vertical siding onto the framing. The wall scales out to 11'-6" high. When nailing on vertical siding a minimum of 4' center to center spacing is needed. In the real world, using 2' on center is a better choice, but for a model in HO, that seems to a bit of overkill.
Exhibit #4 - (ECG-003b)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-040520145450-4413023.jpeg)
I struck parallel lines at 4' and 8' from the bottom plate and used this as my guide for the blocking placement. Note the thicker 6"x8" top plate in the photo.
Exhibit #5 - (ECG-004)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-040520145450-441311165.jpeg)
The vertical siding, furnished in the kit, is a scale 1"x10". I stressed the lumber and cleaned the pieces and began applying it to the wall framing, adding nail holes as I went.
Exhibit #6 - (ECG-005)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-040520150343-441321552.jpeg)
A decent start, but a lot to go, as the stick built wall framing and siding is a bit time consuming to cut and put together.....thank goodness for the ole' chopper.
Next time.....
Great start Greg. Of course I'll be following.
Greg
This is a great kit and I will be following along on your build.
Looking forward to following along! Would love to build a kit like this at some point, looks like a lot of fun.
-Steven
Thanks Curt.....another installment coming soon. :)
Great start on this little gem Greg. When you get around to painting the castings count the number of hats Mr. Cooper had sitting around on shelves and workbenches. ;)
Question - have you ever tried staining the strip wood prior to construction rather than after? Works both ways but doing it after might the stain may reveal spots where some glue inadvertently got on the wood and the stain won't penetrate. Just wondering.
Thanks John.....it is quite an eye opener, after looking at the pictures and instructions for so many years, I had it pictured as a much larger structure and the reality is that it's only about 4-1/2" wide and 6" deep. Amazing.....good things sometimes do come in small packages :)
Thanks Steven.....it is fun and I'm sure you'll be there in no time. :)
Thanks Bob.....I'm definitely having a good time. :)
Some thought was given to the method you are referring to, but I intend to spray paint the exterior as well as the interior of the walls and figured it would be done after they are all assembled.
I am anxious to give your method a try, but I need to wait till I do one of the buildings for the boom town area. These communities generally didn't bother spending the time or money on paint for their buildings.
Greg,
You are welcome, glad I could help out. Nice start and spraying the walls will certainly give it a different look. Looking forward to seeing that. Do I need to get ready with the sprayer or are you going the rattle can method?
Tom ;D
The help is always appreciated Tom.....I'll be using the Iwata on it as I need the practice, but stand by for questions and/or solutions. :)
Greg,
This is one of my all time favorite FSM kits. I've come close but never quite spent the necessary coin to own one. I may be a little late getting on board but I will be following.
Let me reiterate that I'm happy to see this one being built rather than sitting in my closet waiting for my heirs to dispose of since it was becoming apparent I'd never get around to building it. Not that I plan on going anywhere anytime soon, just that I have too many (is that possible) other kits sitting in the closet that I'm going to pull down to build before I'd ever get to this one. ;D
If you need any help with the airbrush let me know. I'd be happy to come over or you could come over here. Although I'd understand perfectly if you defer to the master. ;D ;D ;D
Thanks Bob.....glad to know that you aren't going anywhere anytime soon, especially since you're staying off those darn ladders. ;)
Any help with the airbrush and other things will always be greatly appreciated, chat soon. :)
Gregory,
Your build will bring back a lot of memories...will follow along...
http://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=1354.0
Tommy
Quote from: tom.boyd.125 on July 05, 2020, 12:51:38 PM
Gregory,
Your build will bring back a lot of memories...will follow along...
http://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=1354.0
Tommy
Also a nice build, Tom. Thanks for the link.
I remember the build Tommy.....thanks for the link, it will be a great help with the castings. George was a little short in the instructions with this part of the build. :)
Hello again.....the going is slow, but I am making progress.
It took a while, but the rear wall siding is complete. Below is a shot of the interior followed by the exterior view.
Exhibit #1 - (ECG-007)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-040520150343-4413330.jpeg)
Exhibit #2 - (ECG-009)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-040520150343-441342190.jpeg)
Now onto the front wall framing. The top plate of the side walls are not parallel to the bottom plate. There is a slope to the roof from the front to the rear of the building for water run-off, making the front wall a bit higher than the back wall, as shown below. As with the rear wall, blocking was added at 4' and 8' for the siding.
Exhibit #3 - (ECG-010)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-040520150343-44135808.jpeg)
I ran the siding up to the top plate of the main wall and put a 4"x6" trim piece along the top of the plate. Next up is to glue the siding material onto the false front above the main wall top plate. Because I placed the trim at the top of the plate, I needed to add some blocking for gluing the siding.....they are the little pieces between the short wall studs.
Exhibit #4 - (ECG-012)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-040520150343-441362024.jpeg)
With the blocking added, the siding could then run across the high section of the front wall.
Exhibit #5 - (ECG-014)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-040520150523-44138488.jpeg)
And the framing of the front wall with the siding complete. I have to add siding to the back of the front wall above the top plate. I plan on adding a removable roof to the building, but I need to determine the thickness of the roof system before I install the siding.
Exhibit #6 - (ECG-013)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-040520150523-441371544.jpeg)
All done for this session.....next time.....
Really nice modeling Greg. Is the thicker boards because of a "repair"?
Hey Curt.....the siding pieces that look a bit thicker are all from the same group, but there is a smidge of difference in the thickness of some of the pieces. I also had to dive into my stash of 6x6 material because a number of the pieces in the kit were 6x6 on one end, but narrowed down to 4x4 on the other end.
If I'd hazard a guess, remembering that this was pre-laser cutting, I would say that it is probably the result of the equipment that George used back then to saw his lumber. Anybody out there have an answer?
Nice framing work, Greg. Looks authentic to me. Should make a really impressive interior.
--Opa George
Thanks George.....it looks good up close without the camera lens and I'm hoping to do a bang up job with the castings to bring it to life.
hey Greg:
Looks great. Keep the pics flowing.
Karl
Coming along nicely, looking forward to seeing this build come together. I can't wait to build a kit where I build framing like this, will be looking back on this build for inspiration.
-Steven
Appreciate the nice comment Karl.....thanks for looking in. :)
Thanks Steven.....I am enjoying the build and the stick framing and siding are fun, tedious, but fun. :)
Greg - I just caught this thread. The build looks like it's coming along. I will follow this with interest.
Greg,
The wall look great and natural. Have you started on the casting yet?
Tom ;D
Funny you should mention castings Tom.....
Today's exercise is dedicated to the big surprise waiting in the little yellow box inside the bigger yellow box.
After reading some of the things that y'all have gone thru with preparing the details for placement with the buildings.
It looks like it would make sense to do a little at a time so that they would all be finished when the structure is ready. From looking at all the pieces, it is going to take some time to get these little beauties ready for placement.
So to begin, the little amount of flashing on the castings were filed and sanded and washed in preparation of a prime coat.
Any reference to a paint color for the castings or the building in this build thread will be Scalecoat oil based, unless otherwise noted.
All the castings, except for the doors and windows, were sorted by group and put in the tray below.
Exhibit #1 - (ECG-038)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-110720102314-44946997.jpeg)
There sure are a lot of them.
I started priming with the windows and doors, using a thinned Box Car Red #2 for the first layer.
Exhibit #3 - (ECG-039)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-110720102314-449471626.jpeg)
Next, the castings were stuck to chop sticks and popsicle sticks with double sided tape. I started the priming with a hand brushing of grimy black (Floquil), weathered black (Floquil), sand, silver and aluminum.
The unfinished pieces on the right will be completed with sand and white.
Exhibit #4 - (ECG-040)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-110720102314-44948216.jpeg)
Getting to the point you see above took a bit of time, so I'm definitely glad it was started now, rather than later. I will be finishing the priming and putting the last coats of color a little at a time over the next few weeks.
That's about enough for this time, now it's back to getting the walls finished.....see y'all soon.
Greg,
People following your thread get more than modeling tips, they get an explanation of how to build a structure prototypically. I have seen models that while well done from a modeling standpoint, would fail in the 1:1 world. Kudos for sharing your knowledge of real construction methods with us.
Great framing keep up the great work.
Jerry
Thanks and I appreciate you looking in Bill..... :)
I just caught up with your build Greg, I too appreciate the time you are taking to explain the changes needed to follow real construction methods. I will be tagging along, thanks for sharing.
Great start on the kit, I have already picked up several pointers.
Jim D
Thanks Jim, appreciate you looking in..... :) .
Have a safe trip north and hopefully this overblown virus scare will be toned down by next year and we'll have a chance to get together.
Thanks JerryB..... :)
Glad to help and share things I learned over the years. I know a lot, but the industry is so large, that it is impossible to know everything about all areas.
My intention is not to pick on any one kit manufacturer, but point out areas that would make a model more representative of the real world. So, let's all have a little fun.
Quote from: Jerry on July 11, 2020, 08:57:21 PM
Great framing keep up the great work.
Jerry
Appreciate the compliment and thanks for looking in Jerry. :)
Hey Greg:
You are quite welcome. As I said am following along.
Karl
Hi again....this episode will deal with the side walls of the garage. I have built the walls in order of difficulty, going from the easiest, the rear wall to the hardest, the side walls.
In the previous part of this thread, I neglected to mention the process for using the templates for the wall framing in the build.
The templates that George furnishes with the kit are used to cut the pieces for the wall framing and them placed onto one sided tape over a copy of the elevation that is in being built. The tape holds them in place until the gluing is begun. This process was recommended by George in one of his kits that I put together many years ago and has been the way that I do it ever since.
Below is George's template for the side walls.....notice I said "template", it is marked in the big opening as "SIDES (MAKE 2)" If I use the template as is and add the siding to the framing I will have 2 left elevations.
Exhibit #1 - (ECG-015)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-210720154443-449901916.jpeg)
The solution is to mirror the left side elevation framing template to get a right side elevation framing template. If I still had a light table I could turn the drawing upside down and the light from under the table would make the lines on the underside of the paper visible.
As that was not an option, I used our Zerox copier and made a copy onto a sheet of old transparency. Once I had the copy, it was turned over and laid on top of a piece of blank white paper which gave me the mirrored effect I need....a right side elevation. It is difficult to see the transparency, but it is there, as shown below.
Exhibit #2 - (ECG-021)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-210720154443-449911287.jpeg)
As mentioned before, there is a rise in the wall height from the rear to the front of the building to give the roof a slope for water run off. As a result, each of the studs is cut to a slightly different height. Using the chopper, I cut 3 studs to the maximum height for that group, then cut each stud to fit. This helps minimize waste, which can be critical as some kits are real tight with the quantities of the different sizes of strip wood. The 4' and 8' siding blocking is included, as was done for the rear and front walls.
Exhibit #3 - (ECG-016)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-210720154443-44992557.jpeg)
After the cutting the studs, plates and blocking to fit, the siding installation was begun.
Exhibit #4 - (ECG-017)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-210720154818-449932313.jpeg)
After alll the siding was installed, the left elevation was complete.
Exhibit #5 - (ECG-018)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-210720154818-44994751.jpeg)
Exhibit #6 - (ECG-020)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-210720154818-449951606.jpeg)
Onto the right elevation next time.....
Very nice modeling Greg.
Thanks Curt..... :)
Hi all.....short post today.
The right elevation is complete and is a duplicate of the left as shown below. I'll get to the wall staining and painting in the next time.
Exhibit #1 - (ECG-023)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-250720080700-45079695.jpeg)
Exhibit #2 - (ECG-024)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-250720080701-450801958.jpeg)
The interior and exterior look at all four walls.
Exhibit #3 - (ECG-025)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-250720080701-450811231.jpeg)
Exhibit #4 - (ECG-026)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-250720080701-450822432.jpeg)
Sorry about the out of focus pictures.....I'll try to improve the quality in future posts.
That's all for now, got to head down to Tom's for some railroad misadventures and BS.....
Moving right along there. She's coming together quite nicely. :D
Very nice Greg. Very professional looking.
Quote from: ReadingBob on July 25, 2020, 11:19:55 AM
Moving right along there. She's coming together quite nicely. :D
Thanks Bob.....this first bit has been fun and I'm looking forward to moving along to the roof and floor soon. :)
Quote from: PRR Modeler on July 25, 2020, 03:33:00 PM
Very nice Greg. Very professional looking.
Thanks Curt.....the skills are getting better, but still not up to snuff to tackle some of the more complex kits. :)
Greg,
Very nicely done. I especially like the look of the interior walls.
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom.....appreciate you looking in. :)
Quote from: GPdemayo on July 26, 2020, 10:07:17 AM
Quote from: PRR Modeler on July 25, 2020, 03:33:00 PM
Very nice Greg. Very professional looking.
Thanks Curt.....the skills are getting better, but still not up to snuff to tackle some of the more complex kits. :)
GP----When George instructed to make 2 side walls, it wasn't necessary to make another template. All you had to do was flip the wood frame over and apply the wood siding to it. It was that simple.
From what you are learning in building FSM 130 , you can use the same techniques to *scratch build* wood framed walls for anything you desire. This leads to board on board construction. many of Georges kits feature that same building technique , its like going to school. !!! FSM -U
mike .....................HAIRBALL
Really like those interior walls.
-Steven
Quote from: hairball on July 27, 2020, 10:05:02 AM
Quote from: GPdemayo on July 26, 2020, 10:07:17 AM
Quote from: PRR Modeler on July 25, 2020, 03:33:00 PM
Very nice Greg. Very professional looking.
Thanks Curt.....the skills are getting better, but still not up to snuff to tackle some of the more complex kits. :)
GP----When George instructed to make 2 side walls, it wasn't necessary to make another template. All you had to do was flip the wood frame over and apply the wood siding to it. It was that simple.
From what you are learning in building FSM 130 , you can use the same techniques to *scratch build* wood framed walls for anything you desire. This leads to board on board construction. many of Georges kits feature that same building technique , its like going to school. !!! FSM -U
mike .....................HAIRBALL
Hi Mike.....thanks for looking in & commenting. :) I understand the method you are using, however, I had the plates, studs and blocking overlaid on the template with tape between to hold the wood in position so the framed wall couldn't be lifted off and flipped over.I used a minimal amount of glue holding everything together and didn't want to chance it all falling apart if it was lifted off the template to apply the siding. I was using the old glue on a toothpick method before I got the glue dispenser bottles that Reading Bob suggested and didn't put a lot of glue between pieces.Switching to the method you suggest for future builds sounds like it will definitely save some time. Thanks.
Hi y'all.....another hot and muggy summer day in Central Florida with a hurricane scheduled to parallel the coast on it's way up north by Sunday.....a perfect time to stay in the A/C and work on models.
I was originally going to paint the exterior and interior of the walls with the air brush, but on further thought, it was decided a faded appearance would look more appropriate for the exterior walls, so air brush the interior and hand paint the exterior.
The interior of the walls was done first. The walls were stuck to the cardboard with double sided tape and sprayed with S11 white. I liked the way the air brush covered all the studs and blocking and am finding it easier to use with practice. Some close-up photos of the individual walls were taken, but they are so fuzzy is wasn't worth the effort to get them posted.
Exhibit #1 - (ECG-033)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-300720163729-452191640.jpeg)
After drying, the exterior of the walls was ready for the base coat of paint. A thinned coat of R1107 terra-cotta was used.
Exhibit #2 - (ECG-042)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-300720163729-45221205.jpeg)
After sufficient drying time, a damp brushing of thinned S11 white was applied.
Exhibit #3 - (ECG-043)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-300720163729-45222228.jpeg)
That's all for now.....further weathering of the walls and the windows and doors are coming soon, along with the flooring and roofing systems.
The walls are looking good! Looking forward to the next update.
-Steven
Looks great Greg. I really like the color.
Greg,
Nicely done on the walls. Now, back to work on all the detail castings.
Tom ;D
Quote from: WigWag Workshop on July 31, 2020, 09:25:40 AM
The walls are looking good! Looking forward to the next update.
-Steven
Thanks Steven..... :)
Quote from: PRR Modeler on July 31, 2020, 04:07:44 PM
Looks great Greg. I really like the color.
Thanks Curt..... :)
Quote from: ACL1504 on July 31, 2020, 06:04:23 PM
Greg,
Nicely done on the walls. Now, back to work on all the detail castings.
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom.....I've been working on the castings.....they really add to a building or scene, but are a major pain to get looking right, I sometimes wonder why I didn't move over to O scale when I got back into this the second time. :o
The roof for the structure is on today's agenda.
The kit comes without a roof in order to show all the interior details that George included in the kit. His plans show a carpenter starting to install new roof sheathing in the back corner after the old roof system had been removed.
I decided that the building needed a roof, but a removable roof would be required to show off all those details. The practice gained by installing and weathering a corrugated metal roof would also be of great help at this point.
A piece of 1/16" plywood was cut to include a 24" overhang on the sides and rear. I braced the ceiling side and added a 2"x10" fascia around the 3 edges. The inside "ceiling" was painted with white and the fascia and soffit painted to match the exterior wall color.
Exhibit #1 - (ECG-053)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-130820095629-454691202.jpeg)
The gap in the previous photo is for the beam that "supports" the roof rafters. The beam runs from the front wall to the rear wall in the center of the building and will be supported by one or more columns. This will also be a place to hang some lighting to show off the interior details.
Exhibit #2 - (ECG-054)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-130820095629-454701316.jpeg)
The metal roofing in the 30's and 40's came in pieces that were generally 11' long and 2' wide. As a result, there are 4" to 6" laps every 10' from the eave to the high point or ridge of the roof. Today's metal roofing material can be purchased in full length pieces that run from eave to ridge which eliminates these laps.
Northeastern Scale Lumber corrugated metal roofing material was used for the roof covering. It is close to a scale 11' in height, so I used the full height and cut it into 2' wide pieces. Each of the 5 roof pieces in the bag was 8" long, which will yield about 30 of the 2' wide pieces.
An Exacto #11 was carefully used for this little procedure and 68 full pieces and 22 custom cut pieces later the roof was ready for the installation. The metal roofing was started at the eave and each course was applied left to right up to the peak where a short piece was required.
Exhibit #3 - (ECG-058)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-130820095629-454712130.jpeg)
An up close look at the the roofing in place.
Exhibit #4 - (ECG-059)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-130820095629-454721151.jpeg)
Nearing the end.
Exhibit #5 - (ECG-060)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-130820095732-454731250.jpeg)
Another close look at a completed area.
Exhibit #6 - (ECG-061)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-130820095732-454742264.jpeg)
The last short run of the roofing at the peak and the angle flashing for the vertical wall will be finished before the painting and weathering begins.
That's it for today.....see y'all next time.....
The roofing and under frame look great Greg.
Thanks Curt..... :)
What happened with the build Greg?
Hey Greg:
It's coming along very nicely so far.
Karl
Thanks Karl.....appreciate you looking in. :)
Quote from: PRR Modeler on August 25, 2020, 07:01:45 PM
What happened with the build Greg?
Funny you should ask Curt.....the build has been stalled for the last few days.We've had a fun time around here since a thunderstorm moved thru last Friday afternoon. A real close lightning strike knocked out our personal and business land lines, our main business phone, our DSL internet connection, the cloths dryer a couple of dimmer switches, popped a few circuit breakers and took out the hard wire internet connection port on my computer.I called Century Link and they were apologetic, but refused to get a repairman out until Monday. We had just upgraded our modem (the lightning took out the DSL line and fried the modem) and switched to streaming TV about 3 weeks ago so no TV or connection to the outside world except thru Pegi's cell phone.....all this with 2 possible hurricanes headed our way from the Atlantic.Century Link finally got the fried components on the outside phone box repaired and the modem replaced Monday. After a quick trip to Best Buy for a couple of USB wireless adapters and a new phone, we are back up and running. A couple of dimmer switches, a new garbage disposal and washer/dryer are next on the ole' agenda.I got a few minutes of work done on the flooring of the garage last night and hope to get a bit more done for progress photos by next week.I have those copies of the mine plan and will give them to you the next time I see you at Tom's.
Just catching up here Greg.
Well that was an adventure wasn't it. Glad your getting back on line again.
Progress is coming along very nicely.
Jerry
Sorry to hear about your power and equipment issues. If you need anything let me know.
Thanks for looking in Jerry.....yes, quite an adventure.....we don't want to repeat that too often. ;)
I am currently seeking out this kit for my first FSM build.
-Steven
Is is a really good kit to use for practice with board on board construction and detail castings.....you'll enjoy it. :)
With the roof substantially complete, it is time to continue getting the building ready to mount on it's slab.
As mentioned above, the "concrete" floor slab was cut from 1/6" plywood like the roof. I sanded the edges and painted with Floquil concrete. Lines, to represent the location of the sleepers, were drawn from side to side on 4' centers. The 4x10 flooring was prepped with the wood grain, roughed up with a metal brush and stained with a thinned grime.
In 1:1 practice, the slab is covered with a layer of waterproofing material (felt, visqueen, etc.) and a 1x wood sleeper is attached to the slab to raise the wood off the slab and allow the finished floor to be attached. With the waterproof barrier and the dead air space, the chance of the finished wood floor warping is minimized.
Exhibit #1 - (ECG-046)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-120920122041-45889293.jpeg)
A close up photo to show the wood for the finished floor cut to 12', 14' 16' & 18' lengths as they would be delivered from the lumber yard.
Exhibit #2 - (ECG-049)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-120920122041-458961416.jpeg)
A progress photo with the flooring a little over 50% complete with the gluing and nail holes. The 4' o.c. lines that were drawn is used to indicate the location of the sleepers in order to get the nail holes in the proper location.
Exhibit #3 - (ECG-052)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-120920122041-458971746.jpeg)
The front and right side wall glued together and sitting unglued on the slab. The wall bottom plate is not cut out in the door openings.
Exhibit #4 - (ECG-063)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-120920122041-45898911.jpeg)
Not enough time to post the completed flooring now.....I'll try and get them posted soon.
Next time.....
Beautiful job on the flooring Greg.
Thanks Curt..... :)
Great job Greg! Glad to see you found something to do that'll keep you out of trouble. ;D
Nice looking floor!!
Jerry
Greg,
The garage is looking very good, nice job.
I see you have two "Greg Speeds", one for running locos and one for building. Just an observation.
Tom ;D
Greg, I'm really enjoying your build thread. Your attention to detail and your careful methods are something we all can try to achieve in our own builds. Jeff
Quote from: ReadingBob on September 13, 2020, 11:15:06 AM
Great job Greg! Glad to see you found something to do that'll keep you out of trouble. ;D
Thanks Bob.....I try to stay out of trouble, but sometimes I don't always succeed, but I do try. :o
Quote from: Jerry on September 13, 2020, 11:51:02 AM
Nice looking floor!!
Jerry
Thanks Jerry.....appreciate you looking in. :)
Quote from: ACL1504 on September 13, 2020, 03:04:39 PM
Greg,
The garage is looking very good, nice job.
I see you have two "Greg Speeds", one for running locos and one for building. Just an observation.
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom.....appreciate it. Your cop super powers of observation and deduction are still as sharp as ever. ;D ;D ;D
hey Greag:
The floor looks great. Enjoyed the rest of the pics to. This is an FSM kit I have not built. I will enjoy your build.
Karl
Quote from: nycjeff on September 13, 2020, 05:42:03 PM
Greg, I'm really enjoying your build thread. Your attention to detail and your careful methods are something we all can try to achieve in our own builds. Jeff
Thanks Jeff.....appreciate the kind thoughts. :) I've always tried to think ahead when I build these kits, kinda like I did when I built the real things, but on these first two kits, I have had a couple of "oops" moments that should have never happened. I'll run thru the list at the end of the build..... :-[
Thanks Karl.....I'll have a few more photos of the floor when it is completed in a few days. :)
Gregory I'm just catching up with everyones works, every part you've been through is looking really good. Sounds like the airbrushing part is new to you, but worked out well with the walls? Airbrushing certainly gives a nice variation.
I'm looking forward to seeing how you handle the castings and the metal siding. When I did my Baileys kit the instructions gave terrific direction for the rusted metal roof appearance.
Hi Lynn.....yes, the airbrushing is very new to me. I'm just getting used to it and will need a bunch more practice to get proficient with it, but it is coming along.
Thanks for looking in. :)
Hi again.....a bit of progress on the garage finally.
The floor is completed and the other two sides of the building have been glued together. The walls have not been glued to the slab at this point.
Exhibit #1 - (ECG-067)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-041020171236-46172803.jpeg)
The next step is to get the walls attached to the slab. Note - the bottom plate was run thru the door openings during construction of the framing for the walls.
There are two ways to accomplish this, glue the walls with the opening bottom still attached and cut them out later or cut them off before gluing. I decided on the later because it seemed simpler to get a clean cut on the work bench rather the having to chisel the cut clean after it was glued in place.
The jury is still out with this one as there seems to be advantages and disadvantages to both procedures.
Exhibit #2 - (ECG-069)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-041020171236-461731915.jpeg)
With the bottom plates removed from the openings, the walls are not very stable and must be handled gently. Luckily, there were no disasters and the walls are in place. With this done, the last two pieces of flooring can be run across the door opening.
Exhibit #3 - (ECG-074)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-041020171236-4617417.jpeg)
With the walls in place and all glued together it was time to set the posts and beam that will support the roof rafters.
George calls for 1/16" roof braces on 6' centers from side to side to support the roof decking. Without any posts to support the bracing over the 31' span it would allow for a very bad deflection in the braces, eventually leading to a roof collapse, even without a heavy snow load on the roof.
I chose instead to run posts and a beam the 41' from the front wall to the back wall with posts on 13'-6" centers (+/-). This would be sufficient to carry the dead and live loads loads on the beam from the roof. The posts are 6x6 and the beam is a 6x10.
I included two photos of this, because I like the way the light was coming in on the building at the time of day that the photos were taken.
Exhibit #4 - (ECG-077)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-041020171236-46175533.jpeg)
Exhibit #5 - (ECG-079)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-041020171236-46176875.jpeg)
That's all for today.....see y'all next time.
Greg,
Fantastic job on the floor and interior walls. I love it! Great stuff my friend.
Tom ;D
Beautiful modeling Greg. Is the roof flat for this?
Thanks Tom.....appreciate the support. :)
Thanks Curt.....not flat, the roof has a low slope from front to back. :)
Hey Greg:
This is a great kit. Love what you have done sofar. Can't wait to see more.
Karl
Appreciate you looking in Karl.....I guess Tom's right, I seem to have 2 "Greg Speeds", one for running locos and one for building structures.
I remember I used to be able to build a real house in about the same time it has been taking me to put these kits together. I guess a bit more organization is needed or maybe a bit of retirement time. :)
Hey Greg:
Always enjoy structure build by all.
Karl
Greg very nice.
Jerry
Thanks Karl and Jerry.....appreciate y'all looking in. :)
Yepper, this is the opposite end of the "Greg Speed" spectrum. Moving right along Greg my friend.
I should know, I haven't done any modeling or layout work for close to six weeks. :'(
I hope to change that this afternoon.
Tom ;D
Hey Tom.....I think "Greg Speed" is out the window and I'm in reverse. I haven't gone in the hobby room to work on this in the last 2 weeks..... :-[
Greg,
No problem my friend. You are doing a fantastic job on the garage. The added details will really make it a winner.
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom.....appreciate the kind words. :)
It's been a couple of months since I have done any work on the garage, but with the new Forum Challenge coming up in a couple of days, I thought it might be a good idea to get this one finished before starting a kit for the challenge. So with a couple of free minutes yesterday I got a little bit completed on the build.
After looking at the newly installed posts, I thought that they might need some protection from the cars that will being pulling in and out of the garage for repairs. Some post guards would help take the brunt of any collision and spare the post from damage. Some 6x6 material was cut to 3' lengths with a 60 deg. bevel on the top.
Exhibit #1 - (ECG-081)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-301220093530-4722557.jpeg)
They were glued to the front and rear side of each column and are awaiting painting.
Exhibit #2 - (ECG-082)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-301220093530-47226735.jpeg)
Exhibit #3 - (ECG-083)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-301220093530-47227894.jpeg)
It's a start, but I am planning to get this one finished and onto the next build as soon as possible.
That's all for today.....y'all have a Happy New Year!
It's about time! ;D
The post guards are a nice addition. ;)
Looks good Greg. Talk about procrastination! ;)
Greg,
Great little detail for the support posts., love it.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ReadingBob on December 30, 2020, 11:19:17 AM
It's about time! ;D
The post guards are a nice addition. ;)
Quote from: PRR Modeler on December 30, 2020, 04:20:27 PMLooks good Greg. Talk about procrastination! ;)
Quote from: ACL1504 on December 30, 2020, 05:28:46 PMGreg,
Great little detail for the support posts., love it.
Tom ;D
Some Butty group.....come on guys, I'll try to do better this year. ;) ;) ;)
Gregory,
Soon you will be adding all of the fantastic FSM castings !
Tommy
Hey Greg:
Looks like it's coming along well.
Karl
Quote from: tom.boyd.125 on January 01, 2021, 01:10:34 PM
Gregory,
Soon you will be adding all of the fantastic FSM castings !
Tommy
I've got them about 75% painted, now I just need to figure out where they all go. Thanks for looking in Tommy. :)
Quote from: postalkarl on January 01, 2021, 05:09:22 PM
Hey Greg:
Looks like it's coming along well.
Karl
Thanks for looking in Karl.....I'm hoping to get moving a bit better on this one soon and get it wrapped up. :)
I see this is almost a finish model. Nice work!
Jerry
Greg,
Hey, what did I say? I'm all support here. :-X
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 03, 2021, 12:13:16 PM
Greg,
Hey, what did I say? I'm all support here. :-X
Tom ;D
Sorry about that.....got you mixed in with some other miscreants in the group. ;)
Thanks Jerry.....just a few details missing, then on with the castings. :)
Ezra Cooper's Garage looks great. I have one of these kits, and I really enjoy your build. Might have to bring my kit out, and build along
John
Lovely work.
I'm chittering to see all those detail castings go in :)
Quote from: John B on January 04, 2021, 09:05:20 AM
Ezra Cooper's Garage looks great. I have one of these kits, and I really enjoy your build. Might have to bring my kit out, and build along
John
Thanks for looking in John.....I hope I can finish mine before you get yours done. ;)
Quote from: Rusty Robot on January 04, 2021, 09:06:43 AM
Lovely work.
I'm chittering to see all those detail castings go in :)
Thanks Craig.....I think I have been procrastinating with the castings, but I plan to start installing them this weekend. :)
Sure Greg! ;D
Hello again.....Ezra Cooper's build is semi-back. Seems like it's been a long time, but it was only the end of December since I last posted to the thread.
I finally got in some bench time in this afternoon and made a little bit of progress on the garage. I painted the post guards that I installed last time, got the last row of corrugated roofing cut and glued to the roof and did a little bit of painting on the castings.
The only photo I took was of the roof.
Exhibit #1 - (ECG-085)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-140221173536-4815715.jpeg)
The only remaining work needed for the roof is to put a piece of angle flashing at the peak of the roof where it abuts the rear of the front wall.
The casting will be a slow and continuing project and will be awhile before I am able to install any of those details. I can then move onto installing the exterior doors and get the building planted on a piece of homasote and work on the exterior details and scenery.
It's fun to be back at it and I'll see y'all next time.
Good to see you make progress.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 14, 2021, 07:34:41 PM
Good to see you make progress.
Thanks Curt.....appreciate you looking in. :)