FSM #130 - Ezra Coopers Garage

[ACL1504]

Greg,

Very nicely done. I especially like the look of the interior walls.

Tom

[GPdemayo]

Thanks Tom.....appreciate you looking in. 

[hairball]

Very nice Greg. Very professional looking.

Thanks Curt.....the skills are getting better, but still not up to snuff to tackle some of the more complex kits. 

GP----When George instructed to make 2 side walls, it wasn't necessary to make another template. All you had to do was flip the wood frame over and apply the wood siding to it.  It was that simple.

From what you are learning in building FSM 130 , you can use the same techniques to *scratch build* wood framed walls for anything you desire.   This leads to board on board construction.  many of Georges kits feature that same building technique , its like going to school. !!!  FSM -U

mike .....................HAIRBALL

[WigWag Workshop]

Really like those interior walls.


-Steven

[GPdemayo]

Very nice Greg. Very professional looking.

Thanks Curt.....the skills are getting better, but still not up to snuff to tackle some of the more complex kits. 

GP----When George instructed to make 2 side walls, it wasn't necessary to make another template. All you had to do was flip the wood frame over and apply the wood siding to it.  It was that simple.

From what you are learning in building FSM 130 , you can use the same techniques to *scratch build* wood framed walls for anything you desire.   This leads to board on board construction.  many of Georges kits feature that same building technique , its like going to school. !!!  FSM -U

mike .....................HAIRBALL

Hi Mike.....thanks for looking in & commenting. 

I understand the method you are using, however, I had the plates, studs and blocking overlaid on the template with tape between to hold the wood in position so the framed wall couldn't be lifted off and flipped over.

I used a minimal amount of glue holding everything together and didn't want to chance it all falling apart if it was lifted off the template to apply the siding. I was using the old glue on a toothpick method before I got the glue dispenser bottles that Reading Bob suggested and didn't put a lot of glue between pieces.

Switching to the method you suggest for future builds sounds like it will definitely save some time. Thanks.

[GPdemayo]

Hi y'all.....another hot and muggy summer day in Central Florida with a hurricane scheduled to parallel the coast on it's way up north by Sunday.....a perfect time to stay in the A/C and work on models.

I was originally going to paint the exterior and interior of the walls with the air brush, but on further thought, it was decided a faded appearance would look more appropriate for the exterior walls, so air brush the interior and hand paint the exterior.

The interior of the walls was done first. The walls were stuck to the cardboard with double sided tape and sprayed with S11 white. I liked the way the air brush covered all the studs and blocking and am finding it easier to use with practice. Some close-up photos of the individual walls were taken, but they are so fuzzy is wasn't worth the effort to get them posted.

Exhibit #1 - (ECG-033)


After drying, the exterior of the walls was ready for the base coat of paint. A thinned coat of R1107 terra-cotta was used.

Exhibit #2 - (ECG-042)


After sufficient drying time, a damp brushing of thinned S11 white was applied.

Exhibit #3 - (ECG-043)


That's all for now.....further weathering of the walls and the windows and doors are coming soon, along with the flooring and roofing systems.

[WigWag Workshop]

The walls are looking good!  Looking forward to the next update.


-Steven

[PRR Modeler]

Looks great Greg. I really like the color.

[ACL1504]

Greg,

Nicely done on the walls. Now, back to work on all the detail castings.

Tom

[GPdemayo]

The walls are looking good!  Looking forward to the next update.

-Steven

Thanks Steven.....

[GPdemayo]

Looks great Greg. I really like the color.

Thanks Curt.....

[GPdemayo]

Greg,

Nicely done on the walls. Now, back to work on all the detail castings.

Tom

Thanks Tom.....I've been working on the castings.....they really add to a building or scene, but are a major pain to get looking right, I sometimes wonder why I didn't move over to O scale when I got back into this the second time.   

[GPdemayo]

The roof for the structure is on today's agenda.

The kit comes without a roof in order to show all the interior details that George included in the kit. His plans show a carpenter starting to install new roof sheathing in the back corner after the old roof system had been removed.

I decided that the building needed a roof, but a removable roof would be required to show off all those details. The practice gained by installing and weathering a corrugated metal roof would also be of great help at this point.

A piece of 1/16" plywood was cut to include a 24" overhang on the sides and rear. I braced the ceiling side and added a 2"x10" fascia around the 3 edges. The inside "ceiling" was painted with white and the fascia and soffit painted to match the exterior wall color.

Exhibit #1 - (ECG-053)


The gap in the previous photo is for the beam that "supports" the roof rafters. The beam runs from the front wall to the rear wall in the center of the building and will be supported by one or more columns. This will also be a place to hang some lighting to show off the interior details.

Exhibit #2 - (ECG-054)


The metal roofing in the 30's and 40's came in pieces that were generally 11' long and 2' wide. As a result, there are 4" to 6" laps every 10' from the eave to the high point or ridge of the roof. Today's metal roofing material can be purchased in full length pieces that run from eave to ridge which eliminates these laps.

Northeastern Scale Lumber corrugated metal roofing material was used for the roof covering. It is close to a scale 11' in height, so I used the full height and cut it into 2' wide pieces. Each of the 5 roof pieces in the bag was 8" long, which will yield about 30 of the 2' wide pieces.

An Exacto #11 was carefully used for this little procedure and 68 full pieces and 22 custom cut pieces later the roof was ready for the installation. The metal roofing was started at the eave and each course was applied left to right up to the peak where a short piece was required.

Exhibit #3 - (ECG-058)


An up close look at the the roofing in place.

Exhibit #4 - (ECG-059)


Nearing the end.

Exhibit #5 - (ECG-060)


Another close look at a completed area.

Exhibit #6 - (ECG-061)


The last short run of the roofing at the peak and the angle flashing for the vertical wall will be finished before the painting and weathering begins.

That's it for today.....see y'all next time.....

[PRR Modeler]

The roofing and under frame look great Greg.

[GPdemayo]

Thanks Curt.....