Hello All,
There's four years ago, I've buy at very reasonable price (i.e the same that orignal) the Wrilsley Paper Co Kit from South River Modelworks. It was the second kit from SRMW I've buy, (the first was the Robinson electric, that I've buy for my father 60th birthday), but the first buy for me, and when I've opened the box, I've found that I did not yethave the skills to carry out this project. At this time, I was only a scratchbuilder for several years, but have make a break during many years (8), and Have build only one kit in my life and no dio. So I've closed the box and begin to try to learn the skills I need.
Four years later, I'm ready to begin this kit and make the dio.
This thread have many purpose :
1. Give me the first kick to begin this kit
2. Share with you this experience
3. Receive your comment to keep improving (so don't hesitate to comment, critic)
4. Practice my poor english.
Okay here's the two traditionnal pics :
The Box
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-290614164557.jpeg)
and his content :
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-290614164720.jpeg)
As you can see, there's a lot of stock, and I must confess that the urethane casting are incredible.
That's all for today,
Stay tuned, to be continued
Eric, Québec city
I can't wait to see what you do with this one Eric. I picked up one of these last year so I'll be following. P.S. Don't worry about pronouncing proper english with this crowd were still arguing about how to say "Peabody" ;D Raymo
One of my favorite van Gelder designs. Following along...
It's "pee-bawdy".
I like South River kits a lot. I'm eager to see the end result.
Jaime
Eric, really sorry to jump in on your thread, but this just shows that even Americans don't know
all the local language and pronunciations!
My state (Arkansas) is another perfect example! The other 'sas' state, Kansas, is pronounced as it
is written, with 's'as' on the end!
But, then, common sense goes away!
Arkansas is pronounced Arkan'saw'!
No, it doesn't make sense, but that's just the way it has been for many, many years!
So, your English is doing as well as we do! ;D ;D ;D ;D
I thought it was pronounced P-B-D?
Marty
Looking forward to the build.
The English lesson here reminds me why I studied math and physics.
Wow...looks like a great kit. I see Ebay has a few various kits from $320 to $625, South River Modelworks doesn't list the old kit prices. How much was this kit from SRM?
Doug
I have to check when I get home. I think it was $295
-slim
Box lid in 1st photo of thread says $295... just barely.
Jaime
Quote from: NEMMRRC on June 30, 2014, 11:19:46 AM
Box lid in 1st photo of thread says $295... just barely.
Jaime
I think you are correct Jamie. I saw SRM H. W. Myers & Sons kit at the Springfield, MA show, these are some nice looking kits. Can't wait to the progress Eric.
PS. I live next to Peabody...there is no pause between Pea and Body. A lot of bumpa to bumpa traffic though. If yah drive though Peabahdy use yah blinkah.
Has anyone else noticed how the MA. folks kinda copied the Southern Rednecks?
They either stretch out their words or cut 'em off short!
Or maybe it was the other way aroun'! ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: gnatshop on June 29, 2014, 10:01:45 PM
Eric, really sorry to jump in on your thread, but this just shows that even Americans don't know
all the local language and pronunciations!
My state (Arkansas) is another perfect example! The other 'sas' state, Kansas, is pronounced as it
is written, with 's'as' on the end!
But, then, common sense goes away!
Arkansas is pronounced Arkan'saw'!
No, it doesn't make sense, but that's just the way it has been for many, many years!
So, your English is doing as well as we do! ;D ;D ;D ;D
It's like us with our accent, many french from France don't understand us, they say we speak with an hot potato in mouth. The real problem is they have a default of pronounciation, they add an E at the end of each word and accentuate it a lot :D
Two things I've always wanted to know:
What is a drawring?
and
What is a diorammer?
If any of yinz know, let me know.
thanks,
-slim
Do you mean a measured drawring ?
Or do you mean a raffle drawring?
Jaime
Quote from: Slim Jerkins on July 02, 2014, 01:14:27 PM
Two things I've always wanted to know:
What is a drawring?
and
What is a diorammer?
If any of yinz know, let me know.
thanks,
-slim
Hey Slim.....you sure you aren't from Jersey?.....sure write like you're from there with that accent!
I think a diorammer is a nickname for a Doctor of Proctology?
Hi Eric. I love South River Modelworks kits - so will be watching with interest.
Cheers, Mark.
Hello all,
First, thank you for your interest about this thread, and second, thanks Gnatshop for the lesson on "South Accent".
During the last week, I've work a little bit on this kit (I've several project to finish like painting little people, and make the finishes on my the scratchbuild building), so I've really work on the kit about 6-7 Hours in all the week. Most of this time was occupied by preparing the urethane casting, and a begin trying to assemly them together
First step of this preparation is to clean all the minor flashing on the wall, and in case of the stone foundation, to highlited the details of the cut of the stone.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-060714162828.jpeg)I must say that the casting are very detailled and look to be straight.. Bob Van Gelder said that the wall can be have a little wrappage, and give the solution to correct it. In my cas, all are straight. The back of the casting are very smooth, so to facilitate the adhesion of the glue (Weld Bond), Bob recommend to sand it a little bit on a very straight base. On the following pictures, you can see the high Quality of the stone design, and the small recut that I've do to accentuate the space between the stone on the border of the casting.
.(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-060714162906.jpeg)
Once all the part are sanded, The instruction call for wash them in lukewarm soapy water.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-060714162954.jpeg)
In my opinion, it was an error to wash the casting in this step. the reason is very simple, I did a lot of dust and debris when I've cut the window opening (https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-060714163104.jpeg)
I,ve decide to open all the window, so this task was a little bit long and boring. ANd in final I'Ve rewash all the casting.
Finally I've begin to glue the casting that make the foundation of the mill. Bob pprovide a template to facilitate this task. A great precision was needed to do this task, the parts must be perfectly square, but also perfectly vertical and aligned in height SO I've work on a glasse
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-060714163241-31442014.jpeg)
In the begin I was sceptic about the strenght of Weld Bond glue. On Urethane casting, it take a little bit more time to dry, but permit to make the adjutments needed to align perfectly all the pieces, and once dry it'S very strenght.
The same task with same conditions was require to assemble the brick addition (power central). But after try to make my assembly on the template, I'Ve decide to cut the cardboard roof to make the alignement of the wall, and draw line on the back of the casting to indicate the position of the ledge for the roof.(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-060714163242-317163.jpeg)
That's all for today.
Thanks for viewing, feel free to comment.
Eric Québec city
To be continued
Is Welbond glue similar to white glue? I've never used it before.
Jaime
Quote from: NEMMRRC on July 06, 2014, 08:57:57 PM
Is Welbond glue similar to white glue? I've never used it before.
Jaime
Hi Jaime, yes Weldbond glue is a white glue, but I think it's vinyl glue. when dry it be transparent and relatively elastic.. and the glue is very strong.
Eric Quebec city
Jaime, your local Home Depot should have it!
Hi Eric:
Looks like you're off to a good start.
Karl
Hello All,
There's a long time I haven't upgrade this thread, but in july, I've makevery slow progress on this kit.
First, I'Ve finished to assembly all the wall of the brick building, with the tower and the cap on the tower. It isn't very difficult, but requir a lot of précision to align perfectly all this part.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-170814164613.jpeg)
Tehn I've cover the building with a coat of primer ( paint with can : Oxyde Red from Krylon Rust protector, and grey automotive primer from Walmart), to make a clean work paint, I've cover all the part that no need to be paint in red with masking tape, and once the coat of paint was dry make the same job for grey color.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-170814164650.jpeg)
Then, I've paint all the wall woth a coat of reddish brown obtain by mixing acrylics paint Georgia Clay and a small amount of charcoal color. And finally, begin to think about what I really want to do as diorama with this Kit. I've been very impressed by the work of an other modelers that have make a thread about this kit on RR Line forum.
SO I've make several draw at 1/2 scale to determine the possibility to put the brick building at angle with the Main Mill
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-170814164929.jpeg)
Once my project clearly determine, I've destroy the back wal of the brick building and cut 23/32" from the length of the wall. For this task I'Ve use my small atlas saw, that I use generally for cutting rail.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-170814164737.jpeg)
As you can see, this kinf of saw make a very good job on urethane casting.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-170814164821.jpeg)
ANd with sand paper make a besel to make a straight assembly with the mill.
And make a besel with sandpaper to make a straight assembly with the Mill.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-170814164853.jpeg)
Finally, after re-assembly the wall, I've paint individualley some the brick with different shade of color obtain by mixing the Georgia clay color and more or less charcoal color.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-170814165036.jpeg)
Once this task doing, I've paint the window linten with Linen acrylic paint, and the frame of the window with Titanium white, and the doors with Ligth avocado color. You can see on the following pictures the different shade of the brick color.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-170814165519.jpeg)
OnAfter What I've paint the basement of the building. For that I was inspired by the work of ReadingBob on his Fox Run Mill Kit. So I've decide to try to work in the same way, but with some difference. First I've paint the stone individually with Chalk and Alcool.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-170814165552.jpeg)
Then I've cover the wall with a wash of acrylic paint Folkart Battleship Grey. Once dry, I've coated the basement with a AI solution. ANd finally, I've do an other wash ( a little bit more thick than previously) Of battleship grey for doing the mortar line. I'm very satisfied with the final result.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-170814165624.jpeg)
Finally, I've make the mortar line on the brick. For this, I've use Grey chalk (cool grey I from Mungvo), and Rembrandt Raw Umber 408.10, apply the chalk with encil, and then, the wall are wipped with my fingr to elimine the chalk on the surface of the brick
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-170814165658.jpeg)
That's all for today.
Thaks for viewing
To be continued
Eric Québec city
Nice work on the bricks/stones, Eric.
Jeff
Amazing brick
thanx
Bob
Eric
Very nice work - I'm enjoying the thread.
Quote from: NEMMRRC on June 29, 2014, 09:12:20 PM
It's "pee-bawdy".
I like South River kits a lot. I'm eager to see the end result.
Jaime
Correction:
Pee-buddy. Spoken quickly so the "buddy" disappears. You do barbecue, I'll do New England.
Eric,
You're an inspiration. Forget the grammar worries. Good pictures overcome any "problems" you think might be there.
Quote from: bparrish on August 19, 2014, 06:08:47 PM
Amazing brick
thanx
Bob
Couldn't agree more. I think Eric is the master of brick finishes. :D
Hi Eric:
Lookg good so far.
Karl
Eric,
The walls look great. ;D ;D
Tom ;D
Great brick work Eric.....I'll be following along. 8)
Hello All,
First, thank you for all your comment and interest about this thread. I'm apologize to have not answer soonest, but I was very busy the last month due to a 1:1 project in my kitchen.
It's only in viewing the last update of this project, that I realize that I've make some progress on this kit.
First I've had the sign on the central power, then I've tape reusable tape to mask the top and the bottom of the sign to protect the wall during the weathering process. This technique was suggest by Bob v. Gelder and was very pleasant.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-280914162037.jpeg)
Pictures of final result will be seeing later
Then I've a wonderful idea : why don't cover the window with real glass ???? SO I've make a try with Nr. 2 microscope blade. The glass is cut with an used dentist tool ( my dentist is very friendly and give me his used tool). The tool is dab in white spirit (or other mineral oil), after what, the cut line is carved in the glass. Then a small push on the glass, andthe glass is straightly cut. It need a little practice to have the skill to do it, and some broken glass too.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-280914162108.jpeg)
I must confess that make window with real glass is more long than cover them with acetate. It's not the time dedcated to cut the glass that is more long, it's the time needed to wash the glass with windex or Fantastik before gluying the galss in place. The final result is simply wonderful, and pay all the efforts needed to achieve it. I let you judging. YOu can see the weathered sign too, as promise.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-280914162137.jpeg)
Then, I've paint the stone on the main mill base. First I've prime the base in two color (oxide red for the brick, and grey for the stone), and I've rework many of the stone with chalk powder and alcool (straight). For that I've used rembrandt chalk (four shade of raw umber :408.3, 408.5, 408.7, 408.10 and two ocher shade 231.3 and 227.3)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-280914162204.jpeg)
then I've brush on the wall a very thinned wash of folkart battleship grey color
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-280914162229.jpeg)
ANd finally give a coat of AI solution. YOu can see the difference on the following picture. On top, final result, and on the bottom, the stone wall just cover with the grey wash.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-280914162248.jpeg)
To be continued
After what I've redo an other brick work on the base.
Once the base was do, I've brace the wall of the main mill, regarding the template provide in the kit. The walls are "severely braced". The inner side of the wall will be paint in black later.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-280914161547.jpeg)
Next, the wall are cover with a coat of AI solution, and paint with Americana "slate grey" acrylic color.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-280914161643.jpeg)
Then, following the instructions, I'Ve paint randomly some board with grey sky color rather than white, to simulate some new reparation on the clapboard.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-280914161735.jpeg)
And finally realize that make windows with real glass wasn't a so good idea.... the Main Mill have 40 double hung windows and 6 single windows 86 square of glass to cut and wash........ that was very long to do.....
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-280914161838.jpeg)
Once the windows are done, I've encounted my 2 first problem with this kit :
First I've constat that the doors in metal casting need to be readjust to fit in place
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-280914161939.jpeg)
This problem was solve with a small metal file.
The second problem was the sign. I think a problem was occur during the printing process of the sign. Let me explain. I've begin to glue the sign in place, and during the process to apply it well on the clapboard, the ink is turned to dust and no longer had any grip on paper, a simple light touch with a pencil, and the ink go off.....
Originally, I would like to make a building mediumly weatherd... to cover up this disaster, i've must over weathered the sign, that was complicated to, due to the fact that the paint used remove the ink too... finally, on the side, the final result is just acceptable, in front, it was horrible and I'm don't be happy with it. you can see it in the last pictures of the next post.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-280914162008.jpeg)
To be continued
Then I've glue the friezes in place. In the instruction, this task must be do after the 4 walls are assembled together, but, I'm not confortable with this technic, so i've decide to do itbefore the assembly. YOu can see on the following picture the disaster on the sign.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-280914162408.jpeg)
The I've paint the many casting needed in the foru wall. I think it isn't a good idea to mix metal casting and plastic windows, due to the fact that the metal casting are more thick than the plastic windows. So I've used another time the small metal file to thin the metal casting. The windows casting are primed in earth color, and the wood color is obtain with Golden ocher and Raw umber powder chalk (rembrabdt brand) and alcool.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-280914162315.jpeg)
Finally, I've glue all the windows and doors in place, following the two large pictures provide in the kit rather than the template card ( I've note several error on this template like a windows that doesn't exist in real, and the draw of each type of castinf dont' correspond with the number of casting of each type provide in the kit.
Here'S the final pics of the walls ready to be assemble... but that's for a next update...
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-280914161903.jpeg)
That's all for today, feel free to comment.
Thanks for viewing
To be continued so stay tuned.....
Eric Québec city
Your extra efforts are paying off. The model is looking great.
Jaime
Thank you for your comment Jaime, I much appreciate it
Eric, QUébec city
This is looking super Eric! :D I'm really enjoying your thread. Thanks so much for sharing your work with us.
Very nice work, Eric. Especially the stone wall.
Jeff
Thank you very much for your comment Bob and Jeff.
Jeff, the idea behind the stone work went from a mixing technique between an experience of Bob with his Fox run milling CO kit, and the technique explain with Brette galant about staining wood with chalk and alcool.
I've decide to try to developping my skill with this technic and this kind of material that I've found very interesting.
Eric Québec city
Quote from: EricQuebec on September 29, 2014, 05:44:44 PM
Thank you very much for your comment Bob and Jeff.
Jeff, the idea behind the stone work went from a mixing technique between an experience of Bob with his Fox run milling CO kit, and the technique explain with Brette galant about staining wood with chalk and alcool.
I've decide to try to developping my skill with this technic and this kind of material that I've found very interesting.
Eric Québec city
Eric
Great thread! I'm following along and taking notes - thanks for sharing.
Looking really good, Eric.
I always look forward to your updates.
Cheers, Mark.
Thank for your comment John and Mark, it's very appreciate.
Eric Québec city
I've always liked this kit, and you're doing an outstanding job on the build Eric. Keep those progress photos coming.
Hi Eric:
Looks grat so far.
Karl
Thank you for you comment Mark and Karl, I muc appreciate it.
Eric Québec city
Eric,
The stone work and walls look fantastic. Thanks for taking the time to document it all for us. I know how much extra work is involved in doing it.
Tom ;D
That's a lot of windows Eric.....you must have a ton of patience! ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on October 04, 2014, 05:55:24 PM
Eric,
The stone work and walls look fantastic. Thanks for taking the time to document it all for us. I know how much extra work is involved in doing it.
Tom ;D
Thank you very Much Tom.
Eric QUébec city
Quote from: GPdemayo on October 06, 2014, 09:51:18 AM
That's a lot of windows Eric.....you must have a ton of patience! ;D
No, I'm not... I'm just a modeler ;D ;D ;D ;D
In other hand, to have so many windows for a first try is a very good practice to learn and master a new technique. Yesterday, I've do 16 windows for the two clearstory, totally finish and glue in place in only about 1 hour and 20 minutes.... that'S great.
THank you for your comment.
Eric QUébec city
While playing "catch up" this evening, I read your post on the signs. In my rookie modeler opinion, they look great. I wish I had a suggestion to protect them just as they are as they look very realistically weathered. Sometimes, tragedies have a way of working out very well.
Great thread, overall. Thanks for your time and efforts.
Hi Eric:
Looks great so far. I will be following along.
Karl
Hi Eric,
Any update photos of your build?
Quote from: postalkarl on October 13, 2014, 07:45:09 AM
Hi Eric:
Looks great so far. I will be following along.
Karl
Thank you very much Karl, I much appreciate it.
Eric Québec city
Quote from: MAP on October 20, 2014, 06:56:01 PM
Hi Eric,
Any update photos of your build?
Yes, coming soon (maybe sunday) thankyou for you interest.
Eric Québec city
Hello All,
I can'T believe that's a month since i've update this thread. I've make a lot progress on this kit during the last mont.
For begin I've begin to assemble de different wall of the main mill. The piece are exactly cutting and perfect square, I haven't encounter any problem during this task for this building (I've had some minor problem with the wood addition, but it's an other story).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-261014161949-490169.jpeg)
Once the building was assemled, I've glue the floor support on each long wall of the mill. This task was a little bit difficult do to the small space avaible for take good mesure and glue them perfectly right and aligned with their opposite.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-261014161949-49071671.jpeg)
I know that this task does not require the greatest accuracy, but I like the job is well done.... Then I've glue the floor in place and constat that it was more easely to do If I've had made a floor after another (support and floor)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-261014161950-4908507.jpeg)
Then time was coming to do the roof. The main roof consist of one piece of cardboard that need to be folded in his center. I've necer had good result by folding roof, eac time I've a side more loong than another. So I've cut the roof in two part. Then, the instruction call for gluying the roof in place, after what, gluethe wood trim in place on the undeside of the roof. AN other time I don't like this kind of technic. So after checking the dimensions, I've glue all the underside trim before gluying the roof in place. Note that I left a small space in the bottom side, so that the two roof panel fit together perfectly in despite the wood trim.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-261014161950-4909846.jpeg)
For finsih I've glue the edge trim in place
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-261014161951-4910763.jpeg)
To be continued
Nice work Eric.. :)
Stay cool and run steam..... 8) 8)
The next task consist to do the two clearstory. There's nothing particular in this task except the besel that must be do on the top and bottom of the front wall of the clearstory. The difficulty consist to make the right angle (it's two different angle. One for the bottom, very pronounced, and a second more light for the top)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-261014162224-49111372.jpeg)
Once all piece was ready, I've paint the roof in black, where the clearstory will be glued. Each clear story was assembled before glued in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-261014162224-4912401.jpeg)
Then I've glue the two roof in place, and glue the edge trim in place in the same way that préviously. I've made the underside roof trim for this roof too, in the instruction there's nothing about that. But I' don't like undeside in cardboard, sooner or later, a picture of the dio will highlight the gap, (like the only one pictures that I don'T like of the F&SM, remenber, Johen Have post this pics of the depot, where yu can see a desesperatly white cardbord inner roof, In my sense, this inner roof broke all the magic of this pictures... only my opinion)
Bob van Gelder call for painting the edge after assembly, an ther time I prefer painting my stripwood before assembly.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-261014162224-49131824.jpeg)
After what I've begin to do the wood addition and the shed of this kit. I've made only one change : the windows, I've used some tichy windows from my stash rather than the metal casting windows provide in the kit. Two reason for that : first I don't like metal windows, you can see in the pictures that the casting isn'T perfectly right, and not so fine than plastic windows. The second reason is that I've make a mistake when I've glue the windows on the main mill. I've used the template for referencing where each kinfd of windows must be glued. But there's an error on the template, and I've used all the double hung windows and Have only two lind windows for the wood addition).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-261014162224-4914632.jpeg)
The wall are paint in the following method : first I've coated them with AI solution,when dry, I 've paint a very thin coat of buttermilk color acrylic paint. When perfectly dry, I've brush the wall with the wire brush, and finally repaint the wall with Buttremilk color apply with a terry clothe. YOU can see this three step in the following picture. (okay, it's not my better picture :) )
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-261014162225-4915762.jpeg)
I'Ve choose to heavely wheatered the walls. Here's a pictures of the wall ready for assemble
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-261014162358-49161407.jpeg)
Ready for assemble ???? Not sure, I has a problem, the wall are not cutting in the right size. In fact, the end wall of the building is too short. it appears it was cut without consideration of the roof slope which affects the corner trim.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-261014162358-49171964.jpeg)
To be continued
Hey, thank you Bob for your comment, I Much apreciate it.
This problem of walls was resolv by adding a piece of 6x8" stripwood on the bottom of the two wall concerning by this problem.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-261014162358-4918614.jpeg)
Then I've make the basement of htis building in stripwood primed in red (the same used for my brick work), and assemble with a small square. ALl the pices are cuttinf with the NWSL Chopper to make perfect 45 deg angle.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-261014162358-4919154.jpeg).
Next I've made the roof in the same way than previously, inner roof too. and glue them in place. I've constat that the space between the rafter tail isn't regular, so I've redrw the correct spacing on a small piece of paper and tape it in place. You can see the diffrence of spacing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-261014162611-49211305.jpeg)
ANd I,ve cut all the rafter needed. AN ther time it's a strange angle that be used (understand that all angle that not be at 30, 45, 60 or 90 deg, are strange)
I'Ve learn a new technique in using the nwsl Chopper. Make you angle pattern with a piece of masking tape on the chopper, it work very well
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-261014162611-49221456.jpeg)
Once all the rafter are gluying in place, time is coming to finish the roof.
The main mill roof is a slate roof, doing with pre assembled laser cut paper. The kit contain only two sheet of this stock, with a draw explaining how to cut it to cover the roof, it's no extra material, so the most accurancy was needed. It's a very easy to use product.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-261014162611-49231435.jpeg)
For coloring the roof, Bob use marker from different tone and shade of grey. Personnaly, I don't have this kind of marker, so I've used my grey chalk (cool and warm grey), with alcool. I'Ve painting radomly many slate with diffrent color of grey, and for finish, brush a small coat of cool grey III without alcool.
I'm very satisfied of the final result.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-261014162611-4924982.jpeg)
To be continued
(don't forget to going on theprevious page, ther's a lot of upgrade too).... :)
The second roof to do is for the wood addition and sed, that are cover with tar papaer. There's some time s ago, Doug Foscale have published on his blog a very interesting technic for doing tar paper on a roof. He does it on with paper and colored with several coat of brown and black chalk and finally brush with alcool.
I've decide to try this technic, so I've make two small roof on a piece of cardboard and make some try.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-261014162611-492553.jpeg)
After this two test, I was not happy with the result ,I do not have the subtlety of Doug in the use of chalk. , so I've make an other try with a roof cover with my habitual brown paper. This time I was satisfied of the result, and I've make a final test with a light white dry brush,
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-261014162829-4926944.jpeg)
So, proud of this result I've ad some plank on the roof
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-261014162829-49272391.jpeg)
ANd cover the roof with my good old brown paper.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-261014162829-49281202.jpeg)
ANd finally stain it with the method exposed previously, In the exception of my white dryburshing, with a too old pencil, I'm very happy with this roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-261014162829-49292271.jpeg)
Finally' I've glue the roof cap on the top of the tower and the walls of the brick addition.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-261014162830-4930534.jpeg)
That's all for today, as usual, feel free to commet, critic or so...
to be continued....
Eric QUébec city
Looks fantastic Eric , thanks for sharing.
The whole thread is great but I most like your roof work. ;)
Eric ....
The paper roof with the repair and then yet another failed spot is really cool,
Thanx
Bob
Eric
This is looking great. Love the details!
Looking really good, Eric!
The ripped tar paper with the sarking boards (sheathing boards) underneath looks great.
Cheers, Mark.
Hi Eric:
Looks great.
Karl
Thank you guys for your comments. I much appreciate them.
Eric Québec city
I've always enjoyed your fine work Eric. Looks like another winner in progress!
LHC
Quote from: LongHornCaddy on October 29, 2014, 05:12:36 PM
I've always enjoyed your fine work Eric. Looks like another winner in progress!
LHC
Thank you very much LHC for your comment. I much appreciate it. And welcome back, there'S long time ago we don' see you on a forum....
Eric QUébec city
Hello everybody
An other month have past, and I just found the time to upgrade this thread.
DUring the last past month, there 's a lot of progress on this kit building.
First I've finish the roof of the brick building. That's mean that i've cover it with rooled paper, and paint it and weathered it as describe previously for the roof of the wood addition.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-071214100542-53921757.jpeg)
Then I've prepare 2 small piece of evergren styrene to cover two windows in purpose to add the vent. Bob van Gelder suggest to cut them in the cardboard discarded form the roof sheet. I' ve found that this cardboard is too thick, so I've used 0.5 mm styrene. the piece are paint in metalic grey and weathered with a wash of grimmy black and a little touch of rust color chalk.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-071214100958-54031541.jpeg)
Once this pieces glue in place I have add the vents. The vent are metal casting, that consist of several part, that permit to give them different form during the assembly. this pieces need to be "sanded" with small metal file, because they have some imperfection due to a small gap between the sketch and sketch-against during molding.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-071214100959-540460.jpeg)
And finaly add the last detail on this building (doors and chimney)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-071214100959-5405985.jpeg)
Once this building finsihed, I've build the loading dock, this dock are build from template provide in the kit, with a wax paper taped on it. It's the first time I use this technic and I've found it very useful. I used A small piece of wood to make an exact spacing between each piece of wood.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-071214100542-53912472.jpeg)
In my cas the dock located in the side of the mill is longer, in fact it have all the length of the mill, SO I've just redo a small draw n the template and in this particular case, the small piece of wood for making space eas very usefull
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-071214100543-53931649.jpeg)
And finally I've add the plank on the dock and assemble the two parts together.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-071214100543-53942018.jpeg)
Then I've redo the same task for the dock roof, as you can see, I've make a small besel on all the part to make the angle with the wall during the final assembly, that's an extra task that note be mentionned in the construction manual. It's in this kind of task that I'm happy to have the NWSL chopper :)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-071214100544-53951966.jpeg)
then I've cover this structure with plank and tar paper stain and weathered in the same way than previously describe. And glue the roof against the wall, with no difficulty due to my small besel.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-071214100727-5396440.jpeg)
Then time was coming to paint the casting. In my case, I've primed them in several color, earth color for all the casting that represent wood, black for the 55 gal drum, and grey for the other. All the casting are paint with acrylic paint and chalk and alcool for the wood part (I've used different shade of burnt Umber from rembrandt chalk). and finbaly weathered with a very small brush and chalk.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-071214100727-5397912.jpeg)
Then I've cut the main roof with a new blade to put the chimney casting in place. In this case I must confess that I'm désagree with Bob regarding this task, I think the hole for the chimney must be do before the roof assembly, not after. It's sure that provide an extra job for cover the roof with the paper slate, but it will make a really better job. (just my opinion, in fact I hate destroy something I've make effort to do).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-071214100728-54001506.jpeg)
And finally glue the chimney in place and the last details like vents and rod on the dock roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-071214100958-54012227.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-071214100958-54022181.jpeg)
Then I've work on the great chimney and the trestle, this task have in common a concret support. This casting are in urethan resin and are very finely detailed. this part are primed in grey and paint with unbleached titanium white acrylic paint. Once the paint cure overnight, I'Ve weatherd them first with warm grey IV chalk, a wash of white chalk and alcool and a little bit of rust color chalk.
Here's the final result in the two case. I'm very happy with the result.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-071214101119-54062166.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-071214101120-5408919.jpeg)
Finally I've begin to work on the dio base. Bob suggest to do a 24" x 24" dio,
In my case the Dio is 26 x 24"
I've first cut the base in blue foam and draw the different zone with black pen (https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-071214100727-5398466.jpeg). Then I've make several template with wax paper to transpose all the mesurement for cutting the other layer of foam. (https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-071214100728-53992449.jpeg)
Finally I've buy several woodland scenic mold for making my rocks, Her's the begin of the plaster work on the dio, with an overview with the building.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-071214101119-54072401.jpeg)
That's all for today. As usual feel free to comment.
To be contineud
Eric Québec city
It is difficult to chop up a building that is already "layout-ready."
I do wonder why kit makers ask the modeler to do this with roof details.
Perhaps it is one of the following:
- the roof integrity wou I'd be compromised if it was cut up prior to shingling.
- it's easier for the kit maker to build the building and then detail it.
- ???
Jaime
Great progress, Eric!
Looks fantastic!
Cheers, Mark.
Beautiful build of a great kit! Thanks for sharing your progress!
John
Fantastic work as always Eric!!
Looking really nice Eric....... Keep the progress shots coming....... very inspiring work......
Brad
Enjoying your thread. Always learn something new from our experts. Jim
Eric,
Very well done. I'm really enjoying the build thread and your work.
Tom ;D
Eric,
Awesome modeling, as usual. Even better, IMO, the clear explanations of the steps you take to achieve the final result. Thanks for sharing your work with us!
Thank you very much Jaime, Mark, John, Dustin, Brad, Jim, Tom and Jerry for your comments I much appreciate it.
It's always a pleasure to share expereince with other modelers. I've learn a lot during the last past 4 years, and I'm learning each day from many very good modeler's that's share with us their experiences.
I think it's an important part of our hobby that make it so rich and interesting.
Thanks to all, and thanks to viewing.
Eric QUébec city
Hey E-Dog,
Looks awesome! Makes me want to build this kit.
Thanks for sharing...
Alan
Quote from: nextceo on December 08, 2014, 10:17:41 PM
Hey E-Dog,
Looks awesome! Makes me want to build this kit.
Thanks for sharing...
Alan
Thank you for your comment Alan, I encourage you to build this kit ( and each other here) it's a very interesting kit (like all kit from SRMW I presume).
Eric Québec city
Hello all,
There'S a long time since I've update this thread, the reason is simple, the progress ont the Wrisley paper dio are slow : I've more skill in building construction rather than in scenery, and I've dedicated somes times to finish my red Hook Dio.
So what's new ?
First'I've finish the "hard" work on the dio (i.e. make the palster rock and and the lanscape).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-010215100444-64511508.jpeg)
The I've stainit with AI solution like I've do it for my Hoopers Oysters Dio, as explain by DOug FOscale, And encounter a problem. My rocks are too porous, and litterally drink the AI solution and let a sad dark grey on the rock whitout any shade. . THe reason is very simple, I've over dilute my plaster when I molding the rocks.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-010215100444-6455507.jpeg)
At this point I was very disapointed, and i was very tempted to throw everything in garbage and start over again. FInally I'Ve decide to continue anyway. SO I've apply some wash of Ocher and Umber color.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-010215100444-64561293.jpeg)
and dry brush the rocks with with and ocher color.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-010215100444-64572079.jpeg)
Then I've paint the base with a coat of raw umber color because I don't have earth color . That was just before I discover that White + raw Umber + Ocher = Earth color.... ???
And Finally I've glue the brick base of the main mill in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-010215100444-64581778.jpeg)
And FInish the deck
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-010215100612-64591786.jpeg)
Then I've begin the scenery. First I've glue a thin coat of my "Quebec dust" After what I've glue a coat of semi fine sand
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-010215100613-64601023.jpeg)
Next I've build the trestle coal in 5 sections, because in my project the coal trestle is in coure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-010215100613-64611701.jpeg)
And finally, begin to add some vegetation and casting.
At this time, I've do almost 10 % of the scenery.
here's some pictures from the small area that are almost finish.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-010215100613-64621829.jpeg)
.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-010215100613-6463484.jpeg)
.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-010215100711.jpeg)
That's all for today, as always, feel free to comment, and thank you for viewing.
To be continued
Eric QUébec city
Rocks turned out nice.
I've been following what Dave Frary does for rocks. I posted a YouTube video of Dave Frary's method on my Tucker and Cook build thread.
Scenery is difficult for me. So I appreciate your efforts.
Jaime
Nice save on the rocks, they look great.
Jeff
Quote from: NEMMRRC on February 01, 2015, 11:42:22 AM
Rocks turned out nice.
I've been following what Dave Frary does for rocks. I posted a YouTube video of Dave Frary's method on my Tucker and Cook build thread.
Scenery is difficult for me. So I appreciate your efforts.
Jaime
Thank you for your comment Jaime, I much appreciate it.
Eric QUébec ity
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on February 01, 2015, 02:09:53 PM
Nice save on the rocks, they look great.
Jeff
Thank you Jeff. Yes, finally I'm satsisfied by the rocks. IN addition to the wash of ocher and Unmber colors, it was necessary to make several dry brush with white, ocher, a little bit of sienna and Umber. Next time I will follow the instruction to blend my plaster.
Eric QUébec city
Great start Eric...looking good. Cant wait to see how it turns out!
Alan
Quote from: nextceo on February 01, 2015, 05:32:13 PM
Great start Eric...looking good. Cant wait to see how it turns out!
Alan
Thank for your comment Alan, I much appreciate it
Eric Québec city
Hi Eric:
Very nicely done. love the colors.
Karl
looks awesome Eric, Great job on the rock work, colors and all.
Sam
Eric, this is a wonderful build-thread. I went through the entire thread last evening and I was very impressed. One thing I really liked was the great job you did on the main roof. Each row of shingles was precisely overlapped the correct amount. Many modelers on this type of roof will not overlap enough and will allow observers to see the end of the scoring cut between shingles- making it obvious they are not individual shingles.
One critique I have that may not be valid, since there is only one photo, is that the chimney on the main roof appears to be slightly crooked. It may be just the camera angle.
At any rate, a very enjoyable and informative thread. I look forward to seeing the rest of the scenery. Like yourself, and many of us here, rocks and foam and plaster are certainly not in our comfort zone. I prefer the structure building- it is orderly and by the numbers. I like your approach to the scenery, and it will be fun to watch.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-030215123853.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/21-030215123853.jpeg)
Quote from: EricQuebec on February 01, 2015, 05:02:58 PM
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on February 01, 2015, 02:09:53 PM
Nice save on the rocks, they look great.
Jeff
Thank you Jeff. Yes, finally I'm satsisfied by the rocks. IN addition to the wash of ocher and Unmber colors, it was necessary to make several dry brush with white, ocher, a little bit of sienna and Umber. Next time I will follow the instruction to blend my plaster.
Eric QUébec city
Bob Parrish suggested to me to SEAL the plaster FIRST, with a clear matte from a spray can. And I spray them in between the layers of color. I dilute my colors with alcohol, not water. It worked wonders for my rocks.
QUOTE"-
"Bob Parrish suggested to me to SEAL the plaster FIRST, with a clear matte from a spray can. And I spray them in between the layers of color. I dilute my colors with alcohol, not water. It worked wonders for my rocks."
Randee Today at 12:41 PM
Randee's rocks rock!
Quote from: Mike Engler on February 03, 2015, 07:23:57 PM
QUOTE"-
"Bob Parrish suggested to me to SEAL the plaster FIRST, with a clear matte from a spray can. And I spray them in between the layers of color. I dilute my colors with alcohol, not water. It worked wonders for my rocks."
Randee Today at 12:41 PM
Randee's rocks rock!
Thanks Mike! I forgot I promised to post some pics on my other thread...maybe tomorrow.
Eric, you have one fantastic build going. Beautiful work. The rocks turned out great. Match your stone wall perfectly. I am very impressed. Thanks for sharing your build with all of us. You've certainly raised the bar for the rest of us.
Bob
Eric I enjoyed following along with your build immensely. I just love the meticulous attention you give to each and every aspect of the build. I have to learn to do likewise. I have a tendency to jump in with both feet, hands and heads and try to attack the build as if I was in a race. I have to learn to slow down and savor each and every step like each and every sip of a fine cognac.
Hello Everybody,
First I want to thanl Bob and Donato for their last comment, I apologize for delay before my answer. Thank you very for your comments guys, I much appreciate them.
It be a long time since the last time I update this thread. They're many reason of that . First the progress are very very slow. I've ever said that I haven't a lot of skill in scenery, so each skil is new for me and must be learnet and practive before I do somethings. In this way I will thank all of you that post regulary pictures of your dio and explain how you achieve your result. I Learn a lot be reading your post. The second raison is I've absolutely do nothing during almost 3 week, because I was bored to do scenery and make virtually no progress. After this 3 weeks I've decide to begin on other kit and make scenery too on the dio. But I must confess that since 2 week, I'Ve make a stop on this dio, all m time was dedicated to the Railroad Camp Kit form SW..
SO what's new on the Wrisley Paper DIo.
First, I've finsih to weather the several casting contain in this kit and added some of them under the coal trestle.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-110415162127-7288988.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-110415162127-7369306.jpeg)
Then I've put the track in place. This task was a first time for me, 'cause there no matter to use a cammercial track on the coal trestle that I've Build in wood. SO no plastic tie. I never do that, and I don't have any gauge to align the two rail at the right spacing. Finally I've found an original solution to do that, I've removed 90 % of the tie of a commercial flex-Track and put the remaining tie between the wood tie of the trestle, then I've make small Holes where the nail must be glued to maintain the rail in place.
Then I've remove the last tie and nail dthe rail in place . You can see on the pictures some of the plastic tie (in grey) during the process.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-110415162242-737794.jpeg)
Then I've build the Power pole with his three transformer.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-110415162127-7370795.jpeg)
And decide to make the wire between the main building and the Power pole. SO I've scratchbuild the some details between the electric meter and the wire (sorry, I don't know the specific word to explain what I've do).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-110415162242-73732307.jpeg)
An finally, I've glue he main builing on the brick base, and glue the Power pole n place on the dio, and begin to wire all of them
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-110415162405-73781645.jpeg)
To be continued
Eric Quebec city
.
Then I've glue some casting on the long dock of the main building.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-110415162405-73792269.jpeg)
and scratchbuild a stair for the small dock on the front of the building
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-110415162405-73802333.jpeg)
After what I've decide to take time to doing somes trees. All I've read about trees call for using magic trees or sagebrush. I'don't have any kind of this stock. SO I've used some natural stock That I've found last summer near my home. For the trunf I've used two kind of bushes, don't ask their name, I don't know
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-110415162127-7371680.jpeg)
and glue them together, one for the trunk, the other for the branches to make a respectable tree.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-110415162127-73721783.jpeg)
and finally glue some woodland scenic foliage on the branches.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-110415162242-73741628.jpeg)
After what I've decide to make somes evergreen. FOr that, I will specially thank Johen Siekrik, for his excellent tutorial about evergreen, so i d'on'T know the sort of evergreeen I've do, but I call them Siekirk Pine.
For the trunk I've used wood dowel of different dianmeter and sand them to give them a needle shape, for the branches I'Ve used Caspia (with one branches of caspia buy from a local fleurist for a few bucks, I've make 22 trees)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-110415162242-73751181.jpeg)
To be continued
ANd make several small hole in the dowel to glue the branches in places. Here's the 4 first evergreen I've made.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-110415162242-73762147.jpeg)
Juste before gluying the Pine in place, I've shoot them with haire spray and woodland scenic fine dark green turf
Here'S some view of the dio with somes trees in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-110415162405-7381873.jpeg)
.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-110415162405-7382903.jpeg)
.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/149-110415073733.jpeg)
The last pictures illustre the begin of a pine tree forrest jsut behind the building. ALl the trees are between 18 to 42 scale feet.
At this time, I must finish the Pine forrest, gluying the casting around the brick building and his small wood addition, adn make the river.
I studdying the thread of Jaime, who He explain how he have done his river on his tucker and sons dio. Thank you Jaime for your informations.
To be continued.
As usual, feel free to comment.
Eric Québec city
Eric, everything looks fantastic. I always enjoys seeing your scratch work. Please post picture of the Rail Road camp as you progress with it.
Thank you very much Dustin for your comment, I much appreciate it.
Eric Québec city
Hi Eric,
Everything is beautifully done but those pine trees deserve special mention. They are outstanding! :o Wonderful work. Thanks for sharing. :D
Eric, your build is a real inspiration. Beautiful work. And I totally agree with Bob, those trees are great!.
Quote from: ReadingBob on April 12, 2015, 11:39:15 AM
Hi Eric,
Everything is beautifully done but those pine trees deserve special mention. They are outstanding! :o Wonderful work. Thanks for sharing. :D
Thank YOu Bob, for your comment, As said previously, the original Idea for the pine come from John... :)
Eric QUébec city
Quote from: UP Fan on April 12, 2015, 12:49:05 PM
Eric, your build is a real inspiration. Beautiful work. And I totally agree with Bob, those trees are great!.
Thank You for your comment UP Fan, I much appreciate it.
Eric QUébec city
Eric truly inspirational work. The structure, the landscaping and those pines are to die for. Your work is an inspiration for me. Magnifique, magnifico, magnificent and any other language that could come to mind.
Quote from: Donato on April 12, 2015, 05:59:27 PM
Eric truly inspirational work. The structure, the landscaping and those pines are to die for. Your work is an inspiration for me. Magnifique, magnifico, magnificent and any other language that could come to mind.
Thank you for your interest and COmment Donato.
Eric QUébec city