SRMW - Wrisley Paper

Started by EricQuebec, June 29, 2014, 05:10:19 PM

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EricQuebec

#60
(don't forget to going on theprevious page, ther's a lot of upgrade too).... :)


The second roof to do is for the wood addition and sed, that are cover with tar papaer. There's some time s ago, Doug Foscale have published on his blog a very interesting technic for doing tar paper on a roof.  He does it on with paper and colored with several coat of brown and black chalk and finally brush with alcool.
I've decide to try this technic, so I've make two small roof on a piece of cardboard and make some try.

After this two test, I was not happy with the result ,I do not have the subtlety of Doug in the use of chalk. , so I've make an other try with a roof cover with my habitual brown paper.  This time I was satisfied of the result, and I've make a final test with a light white  dry brush,

So, proud of this result I've ad some plank on the roof

ANd cover the roof with my good old brown paper.

ANd finally stain it with the method exposed previously, In the exception of my white dryburshing, with a too old pencil, I'm very happy with this roof.

Finally' I've glue the roof cap on the top of the tower and the walls of the brick addition.



That's all for today, as usual, feel free to commet, critic or so...
to be continued....

Eric QUébec city


Janbouli

Looks fantastic Eric , thanks for sharing.
I love photo's, don't we all.

BandOGuy

The whole thread is great but I most like your roof work.   ;)
Working on my second million. I gave up on the first.

bparrish

Eric ....

The paper roof with the repair and then yet another failed spot is really cool,

Thanx
Bob
Did you ever notice how many towns are named after their water towers ! ?

S&S RR

Eric

This is looking great.  Love the details!
John Siekirk
Superior & Seattle Railroad

Mark Dalrymple

Looking really good, Eric!

The ripped tar paper with the sarking boards (sheathing boards) underneath looks great.

Cheers, Mark.

postalkarl


EricQuebec

Thank you guys for your comments. I much appreciate them.

Eric Québec city

LongHornCaddy

I've always enjoyed your fine work Eric.  Looks like another winner in progress!


LHC

EricQuebec

Quote from: LongHornCaddy on October 29, 2014, 05:12:36 PM
I've always enjoyed your fine work Eric.  Looks like another winner in progress!


LHC

Thank you very much LHC for your comment. I much appreciate it. And welcome back, there'S long time ago we don' see you on a forum....
Eric QUébec city

EricQuebec

Hello everybody
An other month have past, and I just found the time to upgrade this thread.
DUring the last past month, there 's a lot of progress on this kit building.
First I've finish the roof of the brick building. That's mean that i've cover it with rooled paper, and paint it and weathered it as describe previously for the roof of the wood addition.

Then  I've prepare 2 small piece of evergren styrene to cover two windows in purpose to add the vent. Bob van Gelder suggest to cut them in the cardboard discarded form the roof sheet. I' ve found that this cardboard is too thick, so I've used 0.5 mm styrene. the piece are paint in metalic grey and weathered with a wash of grimmy black and a little touch of rust color chalk.

Once this pieces glue in place I have add the vents. The vent are metal casting, that consist of several part, that permit to give them different form during the assembly. this pieces need to be "sanded" with small metal file, because they have some imperfection due to a small gap between the sketch and sketch-against during molding.

And finaly add the last detail on this building (doors and chimney)


Once this building finsihed, I've  build the loading dock, this dock are build from template provide in the kit, with a wax paper taped on it. It's the first time I use this technic and I've found it very useful. I used A small piece of wood to make an exact spacing between each piece of wood.

In my cas the dock  located in the side of the mill is longer, in fact it have all the length of the mill, SO I've just redo a small draw n the template and in this particular case, the small piece of wood for making space eas very usefull




EricQuebec

And finally I've add the plank on the dock and assemble the two parts together.

Then I've redo the same task for the dock roof, as you can see, I've make a small besel on all the part to make the angle with the wall during the final assembly, that's an extra task that note be mentionned in the construction manual. It's in this kind of task that I'm happy to have the NWSL chopper :)

then I've cover this structure with plank and tar paper stain and weathered in the same way than previously describe. And glue the roof against the wall, with no difficulty due to my small besel.

Then time was coming to paint the casting. In my case, I've primed them in several color, earth color for all the casting that represent wood, black for the 55 gal drum, and grey for the other. All the casting are paint with acrylic paint and chalk and alcool for the wood part (I've used different shade of burnt Umber from rembrandt chalk). and finbaly weathered with a very small brush and chalk.

Then I've cut the main roof  with a new blade to put the chimney casting in place. In this case I must confess that I'm désagree with Bob regarding this task, I  think the hole for the chimney must be do before the roof assembly, not after. It's sure that provide an extra job for cover the roof with the paper slate, but it will make a really better job. (just my opinion, in fact I hate destroy something I've make effort to do).

And finally glue the chimney in place and the last details like vents and rod on the dock roof.


EricQuebec


Then I've work on the great chimney and the trestle, this task have in common a concret support. This casting are in urethan resin and are very finely detailed. this part are primed in grey and paint with unbleached titanium white acrylic paint. Once the paint cure overnight, I'Ve weatherd them first with warm grey IV chalk, a wash of white chalk and alcool and a little bit of rust color chalk.
Here's the final result in the two case. I'm very happy with the result.


Finally I've begin to work on the dio base. Bob suggest to do a 24" x 24" dio,
In my case the Dio is 26 x 24"
I've first cut the base in blue foam and draw the different zone with black pen . Then I've make several template with wax paper to transpose all the mesurement for cutting the other layer of foam.
Finally I've buy several woodland scenic mold for making my rocks, Her's the begin of the plaster work on the dio, with an overview with the building.


That's all for today. As usual feel free to comment.
To be contineud

Eric Québec city


NEMMRRC

It is difficult to chop up a building that is already "layout-ready."


I do wonder why kit makers ask the modeler to do this with roof details.


Perhaps it is one of the following:
- the roof integrity wou I'd be compromised if it was cut up prior to shingling.
- it's easier for the kit maker to build the building and then detail it.
- ???


Jaime

Mark Dalrymple

Great progress, Eric!

Looks fantastic!

Cheers, Mark.

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