The Modeler's Forum

Hi guys.

Since its now mid morning of the new year here in NZ, I thought I'd get started on this years winter build challenge.
   
If you've been following my Tellynott and Shadowlands thread you'll know I recently bought myself a second Fountain Brewery kit with the intent of mingling the walls and creating a couple of different looking kitbashes.  This kit has four gable walls that are all different, as well as a front and back that are different.  Half of these walls have arched windows and half have squared windows.  For my first kitbash I used the walls with arched windows, and so I felt that another large kitbash in a different shape and using squared windows would look quite different.  The Fountain Brewery kit was made by Magnuson models, and later by Scale Structures.  I ended up with one of each.  What I didn't count on was walls of quite different sizes!  The Magnuson walls are significantly smaller than the Scale Structures walls - by some 1/4" in height, and 1/8" in width.  This caused some issues that I struggled to solve, so in the end I felt it necessary to make a mould of a single gable wall and make three castings to be used as part of the bash.

I always make a half reasonable mock-up of any kit I bash, as I find this necessary to check that it will work in my cityscape.  The town of Tellynott is on a steep slope, with many curving roads at grade.  I like both the look and the challenge of this.  In fact, when designing the roads in this area of my layout I photocopied a road map of Lyttelton, a nearby port town with very steep terrain, and used a section of this on my plan.  As this was a lot of the inspiration for this part of my layout, Tellynott takes its name from Lyttelton, of which it is a an anagram.  For my mock-ups, I generally scan and print the walls, cut them out, and then attach them to a cardboard 3-D mock-up.  I start with a site plan along with surrounding elevations.  Things are checked regularly by placing the mock-up in situ as I build, and changes can then be made if necessary - which they almost always are!

Photos 1 and 2 - show the mock-up in position on the layout.  The small gable one story section at the left end of the structure will likely be scratchbuilt out of timber.  So too will the covered stairwell, which I think will help disguise the two rectangular front walls being identical.

Photo 3 - shows the two boxes including images of the original kit design.

Photo 4 - shows the walls I will likely use laid out.  I will also use City Classics spare side and back walls at the back of the structure as well as 1.5mm sheet styrene.

Photo 5 and 6 - show the difference in wall height of the two back walls of the kit.  There will have to be a bit of consideration and tweaking to address this issue moving forwards.

More soon, cheers, Mark.

That mock up looks great and I'm sticking around to see your journey! Great start!

Mark,


I'm not sure what I enjoy more; the backstory, the planning and mockups, or the modeling.  Lucky for me, I have no need to choose.  I'm going to tune in, sit back and enjoy all aspects of this build. 

The difference in size between Magnuson and SS Ltd is -really surprising-.  If I had to guess, I'd speculate that SS Ltd used a mold compound that has 5%-10% shrinkage. 

I have this kit (SS Ltd version, I think).  I found the back part in the original box, but the front parts were removed for some test fitting on my previous layout.  I'm sure they'll show up at some point.

dave

Mark


Thank you for getting things started for this years challenge. I will be following along. At the time of this post we are still dealing with 2020 here in Michigan, USA.

Very nice. I enjoy the older kits. I guess because I drooled over the Walthers catalog repeatedly when I first joined the hobby back in the early 1990's shortly before OJ made his famous getaway in the white Bronco....


Jaime

Nice! These Magnuson kits always look great when built.

Mark,


I know I have this kit somewhere; so I too will be following along on your build...if only I could remember what I did with my kit...

QuoteI'm not sure what I enjoy more; the backstory, the planning and mockups, or the modeling.  Lucky for me, I have no need to choose.  I'm going to tune in, sit back and enjoy all aspects of this build.

Thanks very much, Jerry.  I'll try to keep you entertained.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteThe difference in size between Magnuson and SS Ltd is -really surprising-.  If I had to guess, I'd speculate that SS Ltd used a mold compound that has 5%-10% shrinkage.

Thanks for this Dave.  It sounds feasible.  Doesn't make it any less of a pain, though.

Its good that its not just me who likes to play around with kit walls and then not put them back in their box!

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteThat mock up looks great and I'm sticking around to see your journey! Great start!

Thanks, Craig.

I like the way the mock-up looks.  Its a bit more work to turn the kit into this likeness.  There will be a fair bit of cutting and splicing and fitting to do.  Resin isn't my favourite to work with, either.  Its very hard and brittle and has to be glued with that horrid sticky 2 part epoxy that takes 16 hours to cure.  I tried to get some epoxy in separate tubes rather than the double barrel stuff.  I could only find it in small tubs - which might have been OK - but I could find no information about working time, set time and cure time - which I deemed as pretty important information, so just went with another tube of the devil I know.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteThank you for getting things started for this years challenge. I will be following along. At the time of this post we are still dealing with 2020 here in Michigan, USA.

You are very welcome, John!

Yes - with us being in Summer, and day light savings time, we are even closer to lapping you guys.  In fact the time difference between here and Hawaii is only 1 hour (or more correctly, 23 hours).

I listened to the latest Planet Money podcast yesterday.  One of the presenters of the show is from New Zealand and he travelled back home from the US to spend time with family.  They finished the show with a recording of him leaving his 14 day quarantine, walking out, removing his mask and then shaking a random strangers hand - which he said was the first time he had done so in 9 months.  He is actually an ex student from the school my wife teachers at, so she is keen to get him along to talk to the kids.

Cheers, Mark.

Looking forward to seeing how this develops Mark..... :)

QuoteVery nice. I enjoy the older kits. I guess because I drooled over the Walthers catalog repeatedly when I first joined the hobby back in the early 1990's shortly before OJ made his famous getaway in the white Bronco....

Thanks, Jaime.

I think I saw what George Sellios did with many of these kits and bought a bunch a decade or so ago when the exchange rate between NZ and the USA was good (for me).  I always intended to do large multi story kitbashes with them, but over the years I have shied away from this look, tending more towards small to medium sized structures.  I feel my layout is too small for huge stacks of kits,  Also, more smaller structures helps keep things in scale and give the illusion of making my layout appear larger.  I still have a few fairly large low relief structures, but no where near as big as the F&SM.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteNice! These Magnuson kits always look great when built.

Thanks, Raymo.

Yes - they have a bit of a unique look to them.  I really like the gable ends of the brewery, and also the versatility of the different shaped windows.  I found a photo of the original structure online recently - the kit is a pretty good likeness.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteI know I have this kit somewhere; so I too will be following along on your build...if only I could remember what I did with my kit...

Thanks, John.

Maybe I will get you motivated to do your own bash.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteLooking forward to seeing how this develops Mark..... :)

Thanks, Greg.

It should be a fun build.  I'm expecting the kitbash without the scratchbuilt additions or details to take a number of modeling days to get done.  I expect there will be a bit of head scratching and problem solving moving forwards.

Cheers, Mark.

Quote from: mark dalrymple on January 01, 2021, 09:13:39 AM
...
Its good that its not just me who likes to play around with kit walls and then not put them back in their box!

Cheers, Mark.

I -really want to be rich enough- to hire someone to follow me and put stuff away, do filing and other stuff like that :-)  Guess I should go buy some lottery tickets.


dave

I'm in with a seat in the balcony (better view of the action).  I always enjoy your builds, Mark.  Can't wait to see how your ideas take shape. 

--Opa George

Interesting.  Is the SSLtd version the bigger of the two?  Going to be fun to watch.

Hi guys.

You and me, both, Dave!

OK.  Firstly, the base.  I put my mock-up over a sheet of 1.5mm styrene and cut a piece off big enough.  When building a kitbash I always have my mock-up beside me to refer back to.  I then run a piece of 120 grit sand paper over the plastic to give it some tooth for marking.  I started by getting things nice and square.  I then went about measuring as accurately as possible the walls to be used.  I like to glue my walls to the edge of the styrene rather than on top.  By doing it this way there is something to clamp against when gluing walls together and I can run the epoxy down the seam of the walls and use CA glue to attach the bottom of the wall to the base.  I hold the base down nice and level and the wall in the correct place and in 30 seconds or so the CA has gone off.  I then still have plenty of time to line up the wall edges and clamp, as the epoxy has around a 5 minute working time.  Because of this I have to cut my base smaller than the finished structure by the thickness of the walls.  I also sand the back side of the bottom and edges of the resin walls to try to get this wall thickness consistent.  Typically the walls are 4mm thick, but at the back of the kit where I intend to use City Classics side and back walls they are 3mm thick.  Things can be tweaked as the build comes together.

Once I have the base cut out I sand another piece of styrene and mark the base on it.  This will be an inner floor near the top of the kit and will be imperative in keeping the structure square and true.  I always find with these taller structures that no matter how much care you take, they always get a little out towards the top of the structure.  By running stripwood around the top of the walls and gluing and clamping the inner floor in place, this should fix any problem areas.

Photo 1 - shows the base cut out.

Photo 2 - shows the inner floor marked out ready for cutting.  In this way I can start gluing the walls to the base without worrying about having to replicate the base later when all the walls are in the way.

Photo 3 - shows the Scale structures back wall with its sides cut of.  I used a builders knife to start and then a scriber to remove these pieces, followed by sanding.  In the original the gable walls sit against these two strips, creating a small quirk.  As my two gable walls will be opposite each other, and at 90 degrees to the back wall, these needed to be removed.

Now it was on the the first instance of what to do about the different sized (particularly height) walls.  Of course, its not just that the walls are different heights, the windows are at different heights too.  Ideally, I would have added a strip of bricks between each floor, but I didn't like my chances of pulling this off.  I decided my best solution was to add three rows of brick between floors one and two.  I worked out where the veranda roof will sit against the wall and allowed a little extra for a flashing, and cut the wall horizontally at this point.  I then trimmed the bottom three rows of bricks off one of my cast walls.  I must say, my poured resin walls are much nicer to work with.

Photo 4 - shows the two walls with the cuts having been made.

Photo 5 - shows the pieces ready for gluing.

Photo 6 - shows the repaired Magnuson wall, now the same height as the Scale Structures wall.  The windows are much closer than they were, and I'm happy that with the distance back to the Magnuson wall, and the covered stairwell covering several of the windows and grabbing the eye, one should never notice that they don't quite line up.

More soon, cheers, Mark.

This should be very interesting.  It's great being able to see how you visualize and think through what you're going to with the structures.

Mark,
Like those old Magnuson kits !
Will check this one out...
Tommy

You reminded me I've been hankering after this kit for a while.

I just went to eBay and found one for $35! Bought it immediately.

Great progress so far, Mark!

QuoteI'm in with a seat in the balcony (better view of the action).  I always enjoy your builds, Mark.  Can't wait to see how your ideas take shape.

Thanks, George.

Should be a lot of fun - although I think there might be a bit of frustration in there, too.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteInteresting.  Is the SSLtd version the bigger of the two?  Going to be fun to watch.

Thanks, Bob.

Yep - the Scale Structure is the bigger of the two.  It is also seems to be slightly nicer casting and resin.  The resin of the Magnuson kit is very sticky and very hard and brittle.  The Magnuson kit arrived with quite a bit of damage.  One wall broken into several pieces and lots of chips out of the barge boards.  Each wall came in its own plastic bag, so I was able to locate and assemble the many chips.  What a dog of a job that was!  I did email the guy I bought off on ebay.  He was adamant that the box had been opened by customs and then repackaged badly.  No sure I believe him, but not much I could do.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteThis should be very interesting.  It's great being able to see how you visualize and think through what you're going to with the structures.

Thanks, Bob.

I enjoy that part of the hobby immensely.  I do tend to spend a lot of the time leading myself down the garden path, but usually end up with something I'm happy with.  There are some spots on the layout that have had multiple iterations designed for them, and a few still to go.  There's usually a moment when I go 'thats it!'.  I couldn't build a kitbash this complex without a mock-up.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteLike those old Magnuson kits !
Will check this one out...

Hi Tommy. 

Looks like Craig might have beaten you to it!  This kit has been discontinued so you will only find it second hand.  You might have to wait for a decent price.  Scale Structures still sell a good amount of these kits.  I found them good to deal with and their shipping sale was terrific!  $19 flat rate to New Zealand on orders over $75.  I spent $76.99.  It hasn't arrived yet, but then I didn't expect it to have.  Hopefully some time this month.  I bought Tickners watchworks along with a few metal castings.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteYou reminded me I've been hankering after this kit for a while.

I just went to eBay and found one for $35! Bought it immediately.

Great progress so far, Mark!

Thanks, Craig.

Nice price!  I think that is what I paid too, but there was one kit (and only one kit) listed for weeks previously at over $300.  Shipping is often a big issue for me too.  Many people do not offer international shipping, and then many people that do, offer it at outrageously expensive shipping!  It wouldn't be out of the norm to find a kit like this for $35 and a shipping cost of $95.  We also get stung with 15% tax when we buy from any company that does more than $60,000 annual trade with New Zealand.  That means when you reach the checkout of ebay the 15% will have been automatically added on.  When I bought through Scale Structures there was no tax.  Just another thing that has to be weighed up.

Cheers, Mark.

Hey Mark:

Looking good so far.

Karl

QuoteHey Mark:

Looking good so far.

Thanks, Karl.

By the way lots of people seem to be running off to buy this kit or searching their closets for it, its not just me who thinks its a cool kit.

Cheers, Mark.

Hi guys.

Next step was to cut one of my cast walls down the center to use as the two internal walls.  As one will be a gable wall and one a side wall, I also had to do a horizontal cut at the top.  Once I had done this, again using my trusty builders knife and scriber, I measured and cut a small rectangle of Wills plasticard brick and glued it in the top window opening.

Photo 1 - shows the two new wall sections.

Photo 2 - shows the bricked-in window.

I then started the gluing process.  Each piece was checked, and often temporarily clamped together, and sanded where necessary in an attempt to get as nice a joint as possible.  When ready, I mixed up some two part epoxy (its difficult not to mix up too much), added this to the edge of the internal gable wall and ran a bead of CA along the base section edge.  I put the base on my cutting mat on a piece of lunch paper and attached the internal gable wall and the center back wall of the kit,  I made sure to hold the base flat and the bottom of the two walls nice and tight and held in position for approximately 45 seconds.  Although I found the resin almost impossible to glue together using CA, when gluing resin to styrene, CA seems to work fine.  I don't, however, trust it to hold fast when undue strain goes on, and so always add some strip wood bracing to the internal edge of the base and walls using two part epoxy.  Unfortunately, by the time I had finished adjusting and clamping the two walls together, the 2 part epoxy mix on my styrene offcut was past its working time and I had to mix up some more for the bracing.  I then repeated this process, adding the other internal side wall.

Photo 3 - shows the first walls clamped together.  I cut and added rectangles of styrene to help keep things square and brace against the stress of the clamping.

After the two hours set time I carried on gluing the left side front wall (which is the back wall of the kit) in place and then the right front gable wall in place.  The same process was used and stripwood added to the internal corners and the intersection of the base and walls.  So far, all the walls have been pretty true, so there has been no need address warpage problems.  I can see moving forwards there is one wall that will need attention.

Photo 4 - shows the left front wall glued and clamped.  You can see I added some fairly beefy wood bracing to the spliced wall to give it some extra strength.

Photo 5 - shows the right gable front wall glued and clamped.

More soon, cheers, Mark.

 

This is coming along very nicely.

QuoteThis is coming along very nicely.

Thanks, Curt.

Its nice to see so many new builds underway!

Cheers, Mark.

Cheers Mark,

Not sure why I missed this thread until now but here I am and ready to follow as well. I have two of the Magnuson Fountain Brewery kits and plan on kit bashing them. No idea in mind yet. I definitely like what you are doing here.

Tom  ;D

QuoteNot sure why I missed this thread until now but here I am and ready to follow as well. I have two of the Magnuson Fountain Brewery kits and plan on kit bashing them. No idea in mind yet. I definitely like what you are doing here.

Thanks, Tom.

Pleased to have you following along.  I think at this time of the year there are always so many new build threads going that threads get shunted pretty quickly from the top of the list, and so are easy to miss.  I'll look forward to your Fountain Brewery kitbash in the future.

Cheers, Mark.

Hi guys.

Next I cut the kit side wall vertically to get a side wall for the right end of the structure.  This wall was quite warped - both vertically and horizontally.  I tried putting it on a flat surface in the oven on a low heat for half an hour.  I then removed it, and weighted it down on the granite benchtop (on some lunch paper) and left to cool.  Once cool I removed the weights.  I could see the wall was flat, but within seconds it resorted to its old shape.  I've read up some more on this, and it seems hot (but not boiling) water is the way to go, so I will try that next time.  I opted to epoxy and clamp an offcut from one of the City Classics walls horizontally and at right angles near the bottom of the wall.  I figure once the bow is removed this way I should be able to get the vertical bow out when gluing the wall intersection together.  Past experience has shown me that with these kinds of warps on this kind of resin, the glue needs to fully cure rather than set.  If you remove the clamps too soon, the brace will slowly detach from the wall as it resumes its old shape. 

Photo 1 - shows the side wall cut.

The side wall was also a little short, so I opted to cut the top beveled section off and add a strip of Wills plasticard to the bottom to represent a block foundation wall.

Photo 2 shows the splicing of the two walls.

The front tall wall to the right of the structure on a 45 degree angle has room for a vehicle entrance off one of the surrounding roads.  I measured the height of the road in the model room and then cut an opening for a freight door in the side of one of my castings.  I opted to put the freight door at a loading bay height, as I felt it suited the other windows heights in the wall better.  I cut the door off an offcut off one of my back City Classics walls, filed it down until the sides were removed and added framing, a lintel and a sill in styrene.  I painted the framing in textured gel to represent plastered concrete.

Photo 3 - shows the new freight door installed.

The final one of my castings I cut in half horizontally and then cut a gable on the top of the bottom half.  The top piece will be the wall opposite the tall, angled wall, a large part of which is hidden under ground (road) level.  This I will turn into a shop front.  The bottom section of my cast wall will be spliced together with other material to make the gable opposite the left end gable.

Photo 4 - shows the cast wall cut up.

Photo 5 - shows the left end gable being glued to the sub-assembly.  You can see I have cut a back wall out of City Classics scrap material.  This wall will remain removable until later in the construction process.

More soon, cheers, Mark.

Hi guys.

The shop front gable opposite the tall gable needed the bottom window expanded to fit a front door.  I cut and filed until a had a good fit.

Photo 1 - shows the expanded window.

Photo 2 - shows the door fitted.

The glue on the warped resin wall had cured.  I clamped a piece of thick, straight timber to the wall vertically at the right end to remove the vertical bow on both the inside and outside of the wall.  I then went about gluing and clamping the side wall to the front right gable.  I then added the tall angled gable.  The left side of this wall had to be filed to 45 degrees where it intersected with the side wall. 

Photo 3 - shows the side wall added and the tall gable wall glued and clamped.  You can see I left the vertical piece of timber in position on both the inside and outside side wall.  This I used as a clamping point for the 45 degree wall.  The outside wall clamped timber gave me a stock to line the wall up with.  I also spliced a piece of City Classics wall to the bottom of this wall to get the desired height.

Photo 4 - shows the 45 degrees side wall being glued and clamped.  This wall was fabricated from a City Classics back wall.  It will be pretty well impossible to see on the layout.

Photo 5 - shows the structure so far from the back.  You can see the inner floor sitting in front of it.  When ever I make slight adjustments to the base, I make the same adjustment to the inner floor.  You can also see the piece of scrap City Classics wall keeping the side wall dewarped.  Strip wood has been run around the walls near the top of the structure for the inner floor.  Its at about this time that I need to start thinking about how to make some of the last walls removable for access for for glazing, blinds etc. 

Next was the gable wall to be built at the left end of the central recessed pert of the structure.  I started by splicing City Classics walls offcuts to gain the right height, allowing for the gable end detail.  I then cut strips of 1.5mm, 1mm and .5mm styrene, cleaned these up, and stacked them using CA with a slight staggered quirk.  I angle cut these to match the angle of the gable and glued them together at the apex and to the top of the gable wall.  There was some careful measuring and trimming of both the top of this gable and the existing inner gable of the left sub-assembly to get the walls fitting and in the right position.

Photo 6 - shows the short angled gable and the inner gable glued in position.  You can see at this stage I still have access to the interior of the structure.

More soon, cheers, Mark.

Very nice, Mark.

Strong, are your kit bashing skills.

(https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/9/9b/Yoda_Empire_Strikes_Back.png)

Nice job Mark

QuoteStrong, are your kit bashing skills.

Thanks Craig.  I think half the battle is getting use to cutting up perfectly good walls. I think the other half is to photocopy the walls and do a paper kitbash first.  That way you know you should be happy with the end result.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteNice job Mark

Thanks, Curt.  Its starting to come together.

Cheers, Mark.

Yes, strong bashing skills.  It's looking great Mark.

Hey Mark:

Looking just great. Can't wait to see more.

Karl

Cheers, Mark,

This is really coming together. I love all the angles and kit bashing. Wonderful stuff.

Tom  ;D

QuoteYes, strong bashing skills.  It's looking great Mark.

Thanks, John.

As I chip away at this one I'm trying to work out what it will be.  I've been doing a bit of an inventory of what industries I have on my layout along with a bit of research in to what was most common in NZ towns in the 1920's and 1930's.  No decisions yet.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteLooking just great. Can't wait to see more.

Thanks, Karl.

I'm keen to get further on with this one, but the two part epoxy means you can only go so far at a time.  I did go out and buy some more clamps.  You can never have too many clamps!

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteThis is really coming together. I love all the angles and kit bashing. Wonderful stuff.

Thanks, Tom.

I'm pleased you like the angles.  They sure do add a bit of complexity to the project.  I think I have things under control, though.

Cheers, Mark.

Quote from: mark dalrymple on January 05, 2021, 10:31:53 AM

QuoteYes, strong bashing skills.  It's looking great Mark.

Thanks, John.

As I chip away at this one I'm trying to work out what it will be.  I've been doing a bit of an inventory of what industries I have on my layout along with a bit of research in to what was most common in NZ towns in the 1920's and 1930's.  No decisions yet.

Cheers, Mark.

I enjoy doing the research to find industries that fit my time period.  I remember seeing a typewriter sales and service store in Franklin on the F&SM. I said something to George about it's something you don't see anymore and he pulled out his typewriter, which he used to write the instructions for his FSM kits. I hadn't seen one since college - 40 plus years ago now.

Hi guys.

So I took the remaining piece of the side wall that I had cut vertically, cut it to the desired height and spliced a small section on one end.

Photo 1 - shows the spliced wall.

This I then glued and clamped to enclose the top of the angled addition.

Photo 2 - shows the closed in addition.

Photo 3 shows a close up of the gable wall with my scratchbuilt staggered fascia.

It was about now that I noticed that things along this ridge line did not line up.  I put a ruler along the ridge line and it was very skew wiff.  I did lots of measuring to try to work out what the problem was.  In the end I discovered that the gable wall from which I made my casting was not symmetrical.  I'm sure it is supposed to be, but this was an error I would have needed to have discovered much earlier on in the piece to have been able to rectify.  I'm sure if I had have put these two gable walls together back to back the ridges would have been out by some distance, but of course, with them all glued in place, I can't do that.  After some careful consideration I decided that the ridge being out of kilter would stand out like dog b###s.  So my solution was to add a bit of strip wood to one side of the ridge.  I was planning on overhanging my roof slightly anyway, and I think I'll just add a vent from the wall to help disguise the fix.  I couldn't think of a better way to fix the problem than this.

Photo 4 - showing the stripwood added to the gable wall.

Photo 5 - lastly we have a photo showing the back closed in.  The gable wall discussed in the last two photos is glued in position as well as the short angled return below the wall discussed in photo's 1 and 2.  The inner floor has been glued and clamped into position.  This step really did straighten things out and sure things up.  The z shaped back wall and the rectangular wall are both removable, giving access to the inside of the structure.

More soon, cheers, Mark.

Hello Mark. I really like what you are doing here. You are making a completely unique structure. I like your method of copying the walls and making cardboard mock-ups. I can see how it would give you a very accurate view of your ideas before actually cutting up the kit walls.    Jeff

QuoteHello Mark. I really like what you are doing here. You are making a completely unique structure. I like your method of copying the walls and making cardboard mock-ups. I can see how it would give you a very accurate view of your ideas before actually cutting up the kit walls.

Thanks so much, Jeff!

I find the mock-ups work a treat.  Not just for making sure the structure will look OK and giving you a guide on where and how to cut the kit walls, but also to check how the structure works with the rest of the scene.  Sometimes it is too dominant or obscures a view you want to keep, sometimes the scale is wrong and it looks too big or too small against the surrounding structures.

Thanks for following along, cheers, Mark.

Hi guys.

So next up was adding the mullions to the windows.  I decided on one through the center to represent 1/1 sash windows.  Firstly I cut up small pieces of styrene a little less than the width of the windows and then cut this to half the window height.  There were several different window sizes so I had to cut up one for each different sort.  I numbered these so as to not get them muddled and also to make sure I got the orientation right - a couple of them are almost square.  I took 0.56mm square strip styrene and cut a few lengths slightly longer than the width of the window.  These windows are very inconsistent, and so every mullion needs to be cut to fit.  I then trimmed with a razor blade, picked them up with reversible tweezers, and test fitted them in the window.  I needed a nice tight fit, but not so tight as to bow the mullion.  Once happy with the fit I held a piece of styrene behind the window, placed my spacer at the bottom of the window, and then placed the mullion in position.  I could then prod and poke the mullion down hard against the scrap styrene held behind the window and down against the spacer.  When this was done the scrap styrene was removed and the spacer carefully pushed out, leaving the mullion in place.  I then used a skewer to apply CA to the back - a blob on each side of the window next to the mullion which I then carefully pulled across onto the mullion.  Excess was removed with a cotton bud.  I found that I would work for 15 minutes on one mullion, with several attempts and lots of cursing, and then get 5 done in the next 15 minutes.

Photo 1 - shows the mullion held in the tweezers.

Photo 2 - shows the spacer in place and the scrap styrene behind.

Photo 3 - shows the mullion glued in place.

Photo 4 - shows the front finished.  You can see I also added some bricked out windows which will be half obscured by the exterior stairway.  The mullions missing from this wall will be behind the exterior stairway.

Lastly, I made up the Z-shaped removable back wall{s}.  Again, I used left over City Classics side and back walls.  The windows should be underground.

Photo 5 - shows the removable back wall.

More soon, cheers, Mark.

Impressive.


I probably would have painted the mullions on the glazing. I'm lazy that way. Plus my "Oh crap!" allotment keeps diminishing with each build as my wife gives me the dirtiest looks each time I complain when I screw up lol.


Jaime

Hey Mark:

Coming along very nicely. Can't wait to see what you do with this.

Karl

Very nice Mark.  Adding the mullions looks like a very tedious task but a necessary one.  They look good.   :D

QuoteImpressive.


I probably would have painted the mullions on the glazing. I'm lazy that way. Plus my "Oh crap!" allotment keeps diminishing with each build as my wife gives me the dirtiest looks each time I complain when I screw up lol.

Thanks, Jaime.

The instructions suggest painting the mullions the same colour as your windows and gluing them to your glazing once done.  I can see the sense in this method, but would think it would be very easy to get glue all over the window panes.  I model in the garage while my wife is usually in her office upstairs so I can typically cuss to my hearts content.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteComing along very nicely. Can't wait to see what you do with this.

Thanks, Karl.

I'm still looking in to what kind of industry this will be.  I will do a day researching while the primer dries.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteVery nice Mark.  Adding the mullions looks like a very tedious task but a necessary one.  They look good.   :D

Thanks, Bob.

Yes - I think they make a big difference.  Its certainly not one of my favourite jobs, though.  I had thought about modifying Tichy or Grandt Line windows to fit and give the structure a different look, but when I discovered there were four different sized and shaped windows I decided to keep things simple.  Also my window supply needs replenishing.

Cheers, Mark.

Hi guys.

Next I ran painters tape up each side of any of the joins that needed attention.  I added putty, and trimmed and sanded when dry.

Photo 1 - shows putty being added to one of the joins.

I then turned my attention to the roofs.  I decided the best solution was to add a styrene roof flush with the top of the gable ends and then I could add thin cardboard roofs and roofing material on top of this.  I marked styrene pieces by holding them against the back of the gables and marking up and down the rake with a pencil.  I then cut these pieces out, but transferred the lines down by 1.5mm (the thickness of the styrene I would use for the roof.  The inner floor piece to which these triangles would be attached was pretty flat, but I checked by holding a straight edge across the top of the gables and measuring down to the inner floor.  I tweaked a few.  These triangles were then glued into position - against the back of the gable walls and fairly evenly spaced between them.  Again, they were checked with a straight edge as I went.  The width of the structure from the recessed center wall to the back wall was slightly wider than across the right end gable walls, so the two corresponding triangles were slightly different sizes and the ridge lines will be at slightly different heights.  This will create a slight quirk in the plane of the right hand side roof piece.  Pretty common in the roofing world.

Photos 2 - 4 - show some different views of the sub-roof.  There was a bit of headwork involved in sorting all this out.

I then cut, beveled and added the roof planes to the sub-roof.  This is now very solid.  I had the back walls in place when doing this roofing to make sure things were sitting exactly how they should be.  Gravity managed to coerce the CA downwards and glue the top of the back wall to the inner floor, but I was able to cut and lever them apart without damage.

Photos 5 & 6 - show the roof planes glued into position.  The small roof to the left just has the two sections sitting in position, as I will still need to access the window from the inside.

More soon, cheers, Mark.

Cheers, Mark,

Very high quality work. This is a very unique building and it really is going to be an eye catcher. Heck, it already is!

Very nice work my friend. Master modelers quality. No brag, just fact.

Tom  ;D

QuoteVery high quality work. This is a very unique building and it really is going to be an eye catcher. Heck, it already is!

Very nice work my friend. Master modelers quality. No brag, just fact.

Thanks so much, Tom.

High praise indeed coming from you.  The pressure is on not to disappoint.  I'll do my best.

Cheers, Mark.

Very nice.

I love this stage of work as you really see it coming together. The next phase that gets me as excited is when details are being added, as you can then see it's finishing form.

Looking forward to seeing more!

QuoteVery nice.

I love this stage of work as you really see it coming together. The next phase that gets me as excited is when details are being added, as you can then see it's finishing form.

Looking forward to seeing more!

Thanks, Craig.

I'm almost up to choosing paint colours.  I always think getting paint on the walls makes a big difference to the look of the structure.

Cheers, Mark.

Hi guys.

No photos today.  The kitbash got a wash with dishwashing detergent and warm water, a pat down with paper towers and then air drying.  When dry it got a coat of grey auto primer.

The rest of my modeling time was spent researching industries in NZ in the 1920's and 1930's, some earlier history, and doing an inventory of what industries I already have on Tellynott.  Several industries were promising, but in the end I decided to go with a bicycle factory.  There were several bicycle factories in NZ, including Zealandia Cycles - which made its on bicycles.  As I could find no colour adverts of Zealandia cycles, I may expand on this idea slightly where they also imported parts from the UK and assembled some other brands on the premises.  In this way I can use some of the great colour adverts I found as signs.  Another advert was found for tricycles, scooters and toy cars, and I might add these to their inventory.  Below is a small snippet of information I found about the factory in Christchurch.



(The factory in) Christchurch was housed in a large two story building. The retail store, the Cyclopedia stated, consists of a "large double-fronted shop, with handsome plate-glass windows, displaying a varied stock of bicycles. Behind are the offices, and at the back is the factory, which is thoroughly equipped with all necessary plant and machinery, and is claimed to be the largest in the Colony."

The firm produced its own Zealandia and Atalanta brand bicycles. "[E]verything connected with cycles, except chains, hubs, saddles, pedals, and rims, is made on the premises; the tubing, rough castings, and wrought iron-work are imported, and turned, finished, and plated on the premises."

Between 30 and 40 workers were employed in cycle manufacturing in Christchurch.



I think there is some good information here to work with.  I'm thinking that the bottom level scratchbuilt addition could be the retail shop front, and the small shopfront on the angled section could be the service center.  The factory could be housed in the bottom level and the second and third floors could be split between factory and office space.  With the street delivery entrance at the back of the service center, maybe there should be a elevator shaft coming through the roof.

Lots to think about...

More soon, cheers, Mark.

You do so good with these building.  Such great work.


Jerry

QuoteYou do so good with these building.  Such great work.

Thanks so much, Jerry.

Its been a lot of fun so far.  I enjoy the research, too.  You never know what you might find.  This time I found a site with a heap of colour bicycle adverts from about the 1880's through to modern times, from all around the world.  I've found spots on my structure for at least 2, maybe more.  Hence the decision to expand Zealandia bicycles to include importation and assembly of other brands as well as their own Zealandia and Atlantica.  I'm thinking a nice big double sided sign on the roof might work well, too.

Cheers, Mark.

Hi guys.

For painting the brick I used Maimeri Acrilico golden ochre smeared with a bit if black and hand picked out a few bricks in Folk Art terra cotta.  I used a large flat brush to apply the base colour then sponged on some black randomly, smeared in with the brush and then added more golden ochre to blend as necessary.  My last Fountain Brewery kitbash was a dark brown brick colour, so I wanted a quite different colour for this one.  Still working on the windows and other details.  I'm thinking Floquil roof brown for the windows and foundation for the sills and lintels.

Photos 1 & 2 - show the swirly paint on the walls.  Note - this was taken before I hand picked out some bricks.  Sorry about the fly in shot 2!

More soon, cheers, Mark.

Looks good Mark.

QuoteLooks good Mark.

Thanks so much, Curt.  I appreciate you following along and all your comments.

Cheers, Mark.

Hi guys.

Well the window, door and trim colours have been done and I did go with my original Floquil roof brown and foundation choice.  I tried a yellow to start with, but I could see that it would take multiple applications to cover and brick orange underneath.  I painted the windows and doors in brown first and then the sills and lintels and roof trim in foundation.  Then I did some touch-ups, then I touched up some of my touch-ups!  I'm pretty happy now, but it is a job I can only do for so long, so it generally takes a couple of days to get done.

Photo 1 - shows the window, door and trim colours on the kitbash.

I sized and printed out a whole lot of different bicycle signs, cut these out and placed around to see what I liked.  I then used a sanding stick (nail file) to pull a layer of paper off the back of the sign.  I find if I start in the center and pull outwards applying a bit of pressure, a layer of the paper tends to 'roll' off.  Once I have rolled all the paper off I then give it a final sand with a fine sanding block.  I checked placement and then applied canopy glue using a scrap piece of styrene quickly to the back of the sign, and carefully placed on the wall, lining it up as best I could to the sides and top.  Using my finger I lightly press the sign on, working out and wrinkles.  Then I cover with lunch paper and use a fingernail to work the sign into the brick courses.

Photo 2 - shows the sign on the back wall.  You will only see this wall at an angle, but it should still be a nice splash of colour.

Photo 3 - shows the sign on the right end side wall of the structure.  this image is rather risque for 1932 New Zealand (although it is actually a sign from several decades earlier in France), but I really liked the colours and it fitted the space best.  I made sure to sand off the French writing at the bottom.

For the shop front I put together a Tichy Train Group shop front.  I kept the angled side walls on each side of the front door quite acute to keep the front as narrow as possible.  I would like a slight quirk between the brick wall and the weatherboard wall.  Although the shop front doesn't have many parts, I still found myself guessing a bit.  Some sort of instructions would be handy!  I marked a styrene base and ceiling, cut these out, and glued the shop front to these to keep the angles right.  The shop front was painted in Floquil ATSF blue.  I also painted the service center door in this colour.

Photo 4 - shows the tichy train shop front.

I cut clapboard sides and a gable as well as a piece of scale 8"x14" as a decretive shop front piece to help keep the rain off the window shoppers.  These were stained and then painted in foundation (the decretive shop front piece in blue).  I added the third sign and then added nail holes.  6"x6" corner trim was only stained but not painted.

Photo 5 shows the sign on the side of the clapboard wall.

In order to give the shop front some strength and line everything up I carefully measured some thin styrene and glued this to the back side of the two walls.  This styrene is a nice tight fit between the floor and the ceiling styrene pieces and so, when pushed in nice and hard, will keep the shop front nice and square as well as lining the corner trim up with the shop front.  Note - the shop floor is raised about 1/4" above the brick kitbash as it meets a road at grade coming down to track height.

Photo 6 - shows the back of the clapboard wall with the thin piece of styrene glued in place.

More soon, cheers, Mark.

Beautiful signage.

Cheers, Mark,

I just love what you've done with this structure. The signs are a bonus. Wonderful stuff here.

Tom  ;D

QuoteBeautiful signage.

Thanks, Curt.

I was lucky to find all the great colour signs for bicycles.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteI just love what you've done with this structure. The signs are a bonus. Wonderful stuff here.

Thanks so much, Tom.

Its been a lot of fun so far.

Cheers, Mark.

Hi guys.

Well I got a bit done on the shop front and the grouting done on the building.  A little while ago I bought an expensive white pastel chalk and today was the first time I have tried it.  It scraped off much finer an easier with a razor blade and adhered better to the brickwork than the cheap brand I usually use.  This meant it stuck a bit more to the actual bricks rather than just going in the mortar lines.  I liked the effect for a change, feeling it looked like efflorescence.

Photo 1 - shows the service freight entrance and the risque sign.

Photo 2 - shows the large sign at the back.

Photo 3 - shows the service center street entrance.  I will put a small veranda over this door.

Photo 4 - shows the structure from the front.

Photo 5 - shows the sales shopfront coming together.  The gable is just sitting in position.  The pieces of styrene glued to the back of the clapboard squared and shored things up nicely.

Photo 6 - shows the structure on an angle.

More soon, cheers, Mark.

Beautiful.  How did you get the brick pattern to show through the sign?

QuoteBeautiful.  How did you get the brick pattern to show through the sign?

Thanks, Curt.

Its a combination of really embossing the signage deeply into the brickwork and the extra adhesive properties of the more expensive pastel chalk.  Getting the sign as thin as you can helps, but I think when you place a piece of baking paper over the signage you can really go to town with your fingernail without damaging the sign.

Cheers, Mark.

Excellent brick work, Mark. And I second that parchment paper trick — it really does make a difference!

Mark


Very fine modeling, my friend.  I love the signs and the brick work. Is the expensive chalk finer? And/or  does it have a binder that is helping it stick to the brick face?

QuoteExcellent brick work, Mark. And I second that parchment paper trick — it really does make a difference!

Thanks, Craig.

I like the oversized bricks too.  I also find I get good results using the Wills plasticard brick, which is also oversized, but comes in three different courses.  Having said that, I think the sign that came up the best is the big one on the back wall and that is done on City Classics brickwork. which is much more in scale with standard prototype brick course size.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteVery fine modeling, my friend.  I love the signs and the brick work. Is the expensive chalk finer? And/or  does it have a binder that is helping it stick to the brick face?

Thanks, John.

'And' is your answer.  I definitely noticed it was finer when scraping it onto the brickwork with my razor blade.  The down side to this was I put a bit much on and went through more chalk than I usually do.  After swirling the chalk dust evenly around on a wall I work the chalk in using the natural oils on my fingers (these run out rapidly and you have to keep changing fingers and hands).  When doing this step I noticed the chalk bonding to the texture of the brick faces.  Like I said, though, I liked the look for something a bit different.  Anyway, a quick blast with dullcote will soon dissolve the majority of the chalk if you're not happy.  I fix my walls with artists pastel/ pencil fixative - although I hear non scented hairspray works well, too.

Cheers, Mark.

Wonderful work Mark!!


Signs are perfect!!


Jerry

Mark, the brickwork and signage are top notch.  It's looking excellent.  Your results with the better grade of chalks is indeed noticeable and to my eyes produces a very convincing old brick wall effect.

Thanks for the parchment paper tip.  I wouldn't have thought of that, but will give it a try.

--Opa George

QuoteMark, the brickwork and signage are top notch.  It's looking excellent.  Your results with the better grade of chalks is indeed noticeable and to my eyes produces a very convincing old brick wall effect.

Thanks for the parchment paper tip.  I wouldn't have thought of that, but will give it a try.

Thanks very much, George.

I had to look parchment paper up to check its the same thing (which it is).  Here we call it lunch paper, baking paper or grease proof paper.  All the same thing.

Cheers, Mark.

Hello Mark, what a good job on both the brick and the signs. It all looks great.    Jeff

QuoteHello Mark, what a good job on both the brick and the signs. It all looks great.

Thanks so much, Jeff!

Cheers, Mark.

Hi guys.

I've been off on a planning tangent over the last week, so there were several days with no progress.

Next up was to build the walk over.  I sized things up and cut a piece of clapboard to the right shape.  I found some appropriate small windows, spaced and marked these and cut the openings.  The clapboard (along with some scrap siding for the underneath) was given my dose of weathering - golden titan buff followed by my alcohol and leather dye mix.  I then painted the siding with Floquil foundation.  I used a fine brush and kind of bounced it along on the underside of the lap where the paint stays on the longest in real life.  Nail holes were added with a compass, one row down each window opening stud and a couple more where I thought the span warranted it.  Then it was another dose of alcohol and leather dye.  I assembled the top, bottom and front, attaching rectangles of styrene internally to keep things square and true.  The windows were given a blast of dullcote and then painted roof brown.  I dusted with white chalk when dry to weather.  These were glazed and then glued into position.

Photo 1 - shows the walkover from the back.

Any visible material through the windows was painted black.  I then attached the back and trimmed slightly trying to get a nice tight fit.  I then chiseled off the sills and lintels in the way of the walk over, and glued it into position.  When dry I cut and carefully positioned high tack painters tape to represent rolled roofing.  This will be painted and weathered.

Photo 2 - shows the walk over glued in position.

I made up a sign for above the shop front.  I attached 4"x2" weathered timber to a piece of painters tap attached sticky side up to my cutting mat.  I painted the letters I wanted (vector cut) in blue, cut them out, and attached them to the 4"x2" timber.  When done I prized one end of the 4"x2" off and glued a 4"x2" underneath at right angles.  I then did the same at the other end.  I then flipped the sign over and added three more vertical timbers.  I then made up 2 triangles to attach the sign to the wall.

Photos 3&4 - show the sign coming together.

Finally I added some signage to the window front.

Photo 5 - shows the shop front as it is now.

In other work all the structure has been glazed and weathered blinds added, and I painted up the bicycle.

More soon, cheers, Mark.

Beautiful work Mark. Is the name a off take from the show Portlandia?

QuoteBeautiful work Mark. Is the name a off take from the show Portlandia?

Thanks, Curt.

No - the name is the actual name of the company from the time period I model (and earlier - 1893).  It is a play on the name of our country - New Zealand - Zealand(ia).

Thanks for following along and for all your comments.

Cheers, Mark.

I did not realize you lived in New Zealand Mark.

Quote from: PRR Modeler on January 28, 2021, 02:30:15 PM
I did not realize you lived in New Zealand Mark.

I was thinking the Zealandia came from Zeeland , a Provence of the Netherlands , to which New Zealand owes it's name.

QuoteI was thinking the Zealandia came from Zeeland , a Provence of the Netherlands , to which New Zealand owes it's name.

Its possible, Jan - although I can find nothing to suggest the businessman who started Zealandia hailed from the Netherlands.  I might have expected the spelling to be different if he did?  Parts that were not made on site were imported from the UK.  Regardless - my factory is fictional but based in facts to attempt to keep things as plausible as possible.

Thanks for following along on this journey.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteI did not realize you lived in New Zealand Mark.

Hi Curt.  I went back and had a look through my Shadowlands and Tellynott thread and I see you started posting on page 7, when I first started posting pictures of my structure builds.  You might find it interesting to go back to the beginning of this thread to read some of the history of parts of NZ and the influences on my empire.  There are some great stories in a couple of the links I posted about the first settlers trying to survive in extremely harsh conditions.

Cheers, Mark.

Hey Mark:

All is looking just great so far. Keep the pica flowing.

Karl

QuoteAll is looking just great so far. Keep the pica flowing.

Thanks very much, Karl.

Quote from: PRR Modeler on January 28, 2021, 02:30:15 PM
I did not realize you lived in New Zealand Mark.

The forum software automagically rotates his pictures so they're right-side up  :D :D :D

dave

Hi guys.

Next up I applied some dry transfer lettering to the front brick walls.  I often find words that wont fit, or for which I don't have all the letters I need.  'Manufacturer' was one such word and so I swapped it out for 'builder'.  I measure each letter, writing down the measurements.  I then add these up and added 1mm for the gap between each letter.  I then apply a piece of low tack painters tape horizontally across the wall just below the bottom of where I want the word to go.  The length of the word is deducted from the length of the wall, halved and then a starting point is found by finding the center of the wall and measuring to the starting point.  I then mark in pencil the starting point of each letter.  Its then just a matter of rubbing the letters on, keeping things nicely horizontal and not making a mistake.

Photo 1 - shows the dry transfers.

Photo 2 - a close up.

I decided that a building of that height manufacturing bikes on the bottom floor and servicing them on the forth floor would need an elevator.  I made up an elevator shaft rooftop protrusion from clapboard and 6x6 trim.  This was weathered and then painted in floquil foundation.  I then had a roofing conundrum.  I thought it would be nice to put some tiles on this structure.  I had bought some recently from Northeastern scale lumber for this reason.  I had one piece left over from years ago and made sure to buy one piece the same colour.  Unfortunately things have changed since I last bought these shingles.  The tile sizes were different, the random colouring of the tiles was incredibly un-random, and where each strip of tiles used to be held together by a blob of glue every 4 or 5 tiles (meaning it was fairly easy to cut and paste) they were now glued by a solid bead.  In the end I decided to use my old sheet of tiles for the visible front and side of the structure, and the new sheet for the back where it won't be seen from up close.  I then used the left over bits from the new sheet to do the roof to the left.  I figured because I had to cut and paste several times that the pattern would become more random - I was wrong!  There was a lot of work in this last roof so I will have a go at colouring with markers first before I discard and change materials.

Photo 3 - shows the shingles cut to fit around the elevator shaft.

Photo 4 - shows the elevator shaft.

The black cardboard sub-roof pieces were carefully measured and cut and trimmed when necessary to get a good tight fit.  I then used these pieces as a template to cut out my tile roof pieces.  I used a sharp long blade to 'saw' through the tile strips so I could reuse offcuts by splicing these together.  On the old sheet you can poke the knife through the gap between the blobs of glue, find the correct angle by feel, and then saw through the glue blob.  On the new sheet it is far more tricky - but at $12 a sheet I was determined!  I then glued the black card onto the roof using canopy glue.  Canopy glue was also used for splicing the tiles.

Photo 5 - shows the cardboard roof pieces glued into position.

I stuck a piece of high tack painters tape to my old cutting board, measured width-ways into 4.5mm strips and cut out a 1mm strip between.  These were painted slate grey.  By removing the 1mm strips between you get paint on the edges as well.  These were then used as flashings around the elevator shaft, down the valleys and at the brick wall intersections.  The easiest way I find to work out how the flashing should go is to imagine water flowing down the roof and that the goal is to keep it out of the building.  Typically when working around a protrusion I do bottom flashing, then side flashings the top flashings.  The bottom flashing then has to be folded up to fit over the top of the tiles.

Photo 6 - shows the flashings going around the elevator shaft.  You can also see a valley flashing in the background.

More soon, cheers, Mark.

Mark really going well'Mike

Very good, Dave!

Following on...

Photo 1 - shows a close up of one of the valleys.  By doing this step you can have a nice prototypical gap between roof planes. 

Photo 2 - shows a view from the top.  I have added ridging and hip capping.  You can see I have also made a stack out of styrene tube.  I marked this on the sub-roof with pencil and cut out the hole.  I then used this to cut out the tiles.  This means I will get nice solid fixing for the stack to the 1.5mm styrene roof below.

Photo 3 - shows the structure from the front.  I also added flashings around the intersections of the two roof planes at left.

These last two photos show the vertical strips of colour on the rear roofs.  I'm considering writing to Notheastern Scale lumber about this because I think it ruins the look of the roof.

The top story roof will be done in Campbells corrugated iron, and I'm considering Campbells shingles for the shop roof.

More soon, cheers, Mark.

The building looks great and the shingles roof looks fabulous.

I agree.

You've done awesome work here, Mark. Your workup on these plastics kits really is great modeling.

QuoteThe building looks great and the shingles roof looks fabulous.

QuoteYou've done awesome work here, Mark. Your workup on these plastics kits really is great modeling.

Thanks very much Curt and Craig.

I think any good plastic or resin kit can be turned into craftsman quality with a bit of care and hard work.  And by thinking outside the box you can easily came up with something unique.

One of the problems I have with craftsman kits are that so many of them are made of wood siding.  This always seems at odds to the prototype to me.  If I look at photos from the 30's, in any city scene the vast majority of the structures are built from masonry products.  Plastic and resin kits can fill in this gap, and I believe can be made to stand up against any craftsman kit.  If you can change the kit so that its origin is not obvious - all the better.

Cheers, Mark.

Quote from: mark dalrymple on February 08, 2021, 01:28:23 PM
...  If I look at photos from the 30's, in any city scene the vast majority of the structures are built from masonry products....

Cheers, Mark.

I think it depends on both the part of the world and on the size of the city.  US in general uses a lot more wood in structures than most of Europe.  The smaller the town, the more likely you are to see wood commercial buildings.  And that's because larger towns/cities passed restrictive fire codes, usually after a big downtown fire :-)  Commercial buildings would be subject to more stringent building code requirements, either by the town or by the insurance company.

dave

Your brick coloring and mortar on the Bicycle building is truly phenomenal.   :o 

I haven't done it in quite a while but I enjoy the challenge of taking a plastic kit and making it look craftsman quality with a proper finish and some weathering.   :D  Gee, that could be the basis for great forum contest someday.

Hey Mark:

The roof is looking great. Keep the pics flowing.

Karl

QuoteI think it depends on both the part of the world and on the size of the city.  US in general uses a lot more wood in structures than most of Europe.  The smaller the town, the more likely you are to see wood commercial buildings.  And that's because larger towns/cities passed restrictive fire codes, usually after a big downtown fire :-)  Commercial buildings would be subject to more stringent building code requirements, either by the town or by the insurance company.

Absolutely, Dave.

However - when I look at pictures of prototype city scenes they are almost always pictures of New Zealand city scenes, and I find the majority of city structures in NZ in the 1930's to be masonry.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteYour brick coloring and mortar on the Bicycle building is truly phenomenal.   :o

I haven't done it in quite a while but I enjoy the challenge of taking a plastic kit and making it look craftsman quality with a proper finish and some weathering.   :D  Gee, that could be the basis for great forum contest someday.

Thanks for your very kind compliment, Bob.

I agree it would make a great forum challenge.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteHey Mark:

The roof is looking great. Keep the pics flowing.

Thanks, Karl.

I'll try to keep the momentum up!

Cheers, Mark.

Hi guys.

Next up was the deck for the alcove.  I put some painters tape on my desk, marked out the position of bearers and joists, and then attached a piece of low tack painters tape sticky side up across the length of the deck.  After cutting my decking (a little randomly) and giving it a dunk in some stain, I attached it to the painters tape.  I then added three joists (you will only see the front one, so three is enough to keep things together, square and true) and then the bearers.  Finally I added piles and bracing.  Typically the piles would sit under the bearers, but in a model it is so much easier to glue to the side of the bearer and joist and to the bottom of the decking.  It could be done this way, but one would have to add coach bolts or similar to get sufficient strength.  Somehow I managed to cut my posts shorter than intended so I think I will add small squares of styrene painted grey to the bottom of the piles to represent the top of the concrete of the pile holes.  These are often boxed a small way out of the ground.

Photo 1 - shows the deck upside down on my tape template.

Photo 2 - shows the deck in position.  The styrene squares will lift the deck so it sits flush with the bottom of the threshold.  The owner of the Zealandia cycle works factory is a stickler for the rules and so even though the bicycle boxes are not heavy, he enforces two man lifts - very unusual for the times.

Photo 3 - And, of course, here are the bicycle boxes, along with some B.S.A. fittings boxes.  The boxes display an array of different bicycle brands, some of which you may see on the factory signage.  I made box shapes from card and balsa, and printed the bicycle names in various fonts on brown paper to represent cardboard.  The box shapes were then cut out using a template, the edges scored, and then folded and trimmed around the balsa/ card box shapes using canopy glue to adhere.

More soon, cheers, Mark.

Very nice job on the deck.

Mark, Cheers,

Your work is truly masterful and very inspiring. I always get a boost of energy after reading what you've done on this build.

I love using the Northeastern shingles. They look really natural, can be stained/weathered with ease. The ridge caps set the shingled roof apart from others.

Fantastic stuff Mark.

Tom  ;D

QuoteVery nice job on the deck.

Thanks very much, Curt.

Yesterday I cut some 1.5mm styrene into a 3mm strip and then chopped that into 3mm squares.  I sanded the squares and then fixed them to a piece of painters tap sticky side up, which I had marked the position of the 6 piles on.  I painted the styrene with three coats of grey and when dry, glued the deck piles onto the square styrene footings.  When the glue had set I carefully ran a sharp knife under the footings to remove them from the painters tape.  I then glued the deck into position.

Photo 1 - shows the deck glued into position with the footings added.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteYour work is truly masterful and very inspiring. I always get a boost of energy after reading what you've done on this build.

I love using the Northeastern shingles. They look really natural, can be stained/weathered with ease. The ridge caps set the shingled roof apart from others.

Fantastic stuff Mark.

Thanks so much, Tom!

I actually used your reply above in an email to Northeastern Scale Lumber yesterday.  I believe their latest offerings are no longer 'natural looking' as the different shades of grey seem to come in big vertical runs.  If you look back at the aerial view of my roof on the previous page the shingles at the back L are the new ones, while the ones in the front L are probably 8 - 10 years old.  I also sent that photo in my email.  Its not just a compliant, I believe they will lose a lot of sales unless they rectify this problem.

To attempt to rectify this problem on my last tile roof I took a sample of the slate tiles into my local art shop and purchased a couple of Copic markers - natural #2 and natural #4.  I used these to colour more tiles in the two darker shades to try to hide the vertical runs.  I think I need to colour a few more, but I see this as acceptable - just.

Photo 1 - shows the markers I used.

Photo 2 - shows the roof with 30 or so slate tiles darkened.  These markers seem a pretty good match for the two darker shades.

I haven't heard back from Northeastern Scale Lumber yet, but I will update when I do.

Cheers, Mark.

Great recovery on the dock.  Probably ought to be seeing more concrete footers for wood posts than we do.

Copics are a wonderful idea. I have a whole load of them here but never gotten around to using them on a build. Next project it is! Great work Mark.

Those slates look good.  Variation without looking "funny".  You could try stippling some brighter colors of chalk/pigment (particularly blue) to get a bit more variation on individual slates.  That's worked well for me.


dave

QuoteGreat recovery on the dock.  Probably ought to be seeing more concrete footers for wood posts than we do.

Thanks, Bob.

I figured it was easier than taking the piles and braces of and redoing with longer piles, and it gave a bit of variety.  The builders had a bit of mix left over from another job with some black oxide in it - hence the slightly darker colour.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteCopics are a wonderful idea. I have a whole load of them here but never gotten around to using them on a build. Next project it is! Great work Mark.

Thanks, Craig.

I couldn't believe how many different shades there were.  40 different shades of grey!

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteThose slates look good.  Variation without looking "funny".  You could try stippling some brighter colors of chalk/pigment (particularly blue) to get a bit more variation on individual slates.  That's worked well for me.

Thanks, Dave.

I have heard back from Northeastern Scale Lumber and they see the problem and are going to look into it and get back to me.  I mentioned that the packets have different sizes of shingles and they are going to look into that too.  I see some new ones in our local hobby shop and their packet of darker grey ones has quite a random row spacing to them whereas the packet I received a couple of months ago are very uniform in their row spacing.  I often splice sheets together when working, and to be able to do that you need sheets to have the same spacing.

I'll have a play with stippling on some chalk.

Cheers, Mark.

Hi guys.

Just a couple of pictures of where I've got to.

First up is a picture of the masking tape I use for valley flashings.  You can see I have started peeling off the 1mm strips between the flashings.  I then paint the tape grey (shown in the top of the photo of the Copic markers).  I attach my flashings to the sub roof before the shingle roof planes, not after.  In this way any rain that falls in Tellynott flows down the tiles, into the valley flashings (which have little kick backs at their edges to retain the water) and down the valleys.  I see a lot of model roofs about that would leak.  I often do a google search of such things as flashings to see what is the most common way of doing things.  Following the prototype never hurts!

Next are two photos of the roof with the last lot of slate tiles added.  I still need to flash the cupola, which is just sitting in position.  The stack was also primed yesterday.  You can also see the double sided tape has been added to the service shop roof and the black card glued to the roof.  Next will be adding corrugated iron and adding the small roof above the loading dock.

More soon, cheers, Mark.

Beautiful looking roof.

Beautiful looking roof.

Mark, Cheers,

Love the roof and all the different angles.

Tom  ;D

Very well done!

Hey Mark :

Roof looks just great.

Karl

Excellent job on the roof Mark..... 8)

You are correct about the valley flashing. Generally all roofing, if installed correctly, will utilize a metal valley and hard roofing (slate, cement, cedar, etc.) is no exception. It is common practice, over here, to install the dry-in felt sheet over the roof sheathing and overlap the valleys at least 18". The metal is placed in the valley at least 12" on other side of the valley centerline, kind of like a shallow "V". The roofing is then installed over the metal holding off 4" to 6" off the centerline - called an open valley application. See example below.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-130221100524.jpeg)

A fine job your doing on this one Mark.


Jerry

QuoteBeautiful looking roof.

Thanks very much, Curt.

I'm pleased you like it.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteLove the roof and all the different angles.

Thanks very much, Tom.

I think the roof is extra important in a model.  I always enjoy walking around hilly suburbs to see how things really look up there.  There are so many commercial and industrial roofs that look flat from the ground, but when you look down on them they actually have gable or hip roofs with internal gutters.  Their parapet walls often hide this from the street.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteVery well done!

Thanks, Bob.

Its been fun working on this roof.  I think it works well cutting the material for the hips and ridges that comes with the Northeastern Scale Lumber slate tile roofs narrower.  I think they would be overly wide if done as they are.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteRoof looks just great.

Thanks, Karl.

I should have photographs of the corrugated iron roof soon.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteExcellent job on the roof Mark

You are correct about the valley flashing. Generally all roofing, if installed correctly, will utilize a metal valley and hard roofing (slate, cement, cedar, etc.) is no exception. It is common practice, over here, to install the dry-in felt sheet over the roof sheathing and overlap the valleys at least 18". The metal is placed in the valley at least 12" on other side of the valley centerline, kind of like a shallow "V". The roofing is then installed over the metal holding off 4" to 6" off the centerline - called an open valley application.

Thanks very much, Gregory.

Thanks for the extra information and the photo.  I really like the red valley flashing - it really pops.  I have also seen tile roofs where the tiles actually meet at the valley.  I assume there must still be a valley flashing underneath.  All the prototype photos I found of this I thought looked most untidy.  I did my valleys the same as your photo.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteA fine job your doing on this one Mark.

Thank you, Jerry.

Just the roof of the shop front to go.

Cheers, Mark.

Hi guys.

Well the corrugated iron roof is on.

I cut my Campbell corrugated iron sheets in half and then taped them to my cutting board.  I ran a piece of painters tape along the two short edges and marked these with purlin spacings (3' centers) and one just up from the bottom.  I then hold my steel ruler in line with the purlin spacings and run my compass along the ribs, putting and indentation every second indentation.  I do this more by feel than watching.  I try not to press too hard and pierce the iron.  I vary the height of each new length slightly by taping it so it is a bit further down or up than the last one.  By doing this I can line all the lead headed nails up, and have variations in lengths of iron for that slightly random look.  The sheets are then flipped so that the indentations resemble lead headed nails and then the sheet is cut into widths.  I did mine just under 3'.  I glued my black card roof piece to the structure and then cut and attached strips of double sided tape.  I make sure the top piece goes across the ridge.  I then peel off the tape backing and start attaching the iron, overhanging the card slightly.  Always start at the bottom!  I pick my pieces to get variation in length of iron.  The short top pieces were cut (while still strips) so that when attached the top of each sheet will be down slightly from the ridge.  I attached these short pieces, using CA to hold as needed.  I apply this by putting a drop of CA on some painters tape and then using my knife to run it under the iron.

Next was to make up the ridge capping.  I smoothed out a piece of aluminum foil and attached a piece of double sided tape to it.  This was cut into a strip approximately 6mm in width.  I peeled off the backing of the tape and attached it too my cutting board sticky side up using painters tape.  I cut a piece of styrene rod the same length as the roof and then carefully laid this down the center of the foil/ double sided tape.  I cut off the ends of the foil a couple of mm's back from the end of the rod and also cut square corners off.  I use a finger and thumb to meld the foil over the rod a ways and then carefully lay it down the ridge.  The rod will stick the the double sided tape on the roof.  The foil is then melded into the the undulations of the iron using a tooth pick, and the ends folded over the edge.

I primed with dullcote, and then painted gun metal grey.  I dry brushed with unbleached titanium white to make the lead headed nails pop, and then added rust pigments with a fine brush.

More soon, cheers, Mark

Mark, Cheers,

Love the roof color and weathering.

Tom  ;D

Excellent coloring on the roof.

Quote from: mark dalrymple on February 14, 2021, 01:27:45 PM

QuoteExcellent job on the roof Mark

You are correct about the valley flashing. Generally all roofing, if installed correctly, will utilize a metal valley and hard roofing (slate, cement, cedar, etc.) is no exception. It is common practice, over here, to install the dry-in felt sheet over the roof sheathing and overlap the valleys at least 18". The metal is placed in the valley at least 12" on other side of the valley centerline, kind of like a shallow "V". The roofing is then installed over the metal holding off 4" to 6" off the centerline - called an open valley application.

Thanks very much, Gregory.

Thanks for the extra information and the photo.  I really like the red valley flashing - it really pops.  I have also seen tile roofs where the tiles actually meet at the valley.  I assume there must still be a valley flashing underneath.  All the prototype photos I found of this I thought looked most untidy.  I did my valleys the same as your photo.

Cheers, Mark.

You're welcome Mark.

The sheet metal shown in the photo is copper. When using a high end material, like copper for roofing, it is always a good idea to use a material like copper that has a good chance of lasting as look as the slate. The pecking order for the quality of roof flashing, from best to worse is: copper, stainless steel, aluminum and galvanized steel.

Your assumption about a valley under a closed valley is correct. For all reliable roof systems, it is always required to have some form of valley, generally metal,  under the visible roof covering (wood, metal, clay or cement tile, asphalt or fiberglass shingles, etc.)

Greg, great info.  Where's lead in your 'ranking of flashing'? 


dave

Quote from: deemery on February 14, 2021, 08:08:02 PM
Greg, great info.  Where's lead in your 'ranking of flashing'? 

dave

I forgot all about lead Dave....it is probably the best flashing and is still doing it's job after 500 years on some buildings in Europe.

Like copper, the cost of lead (about $20.00 per sf for 1/16") keeps it from more widespread use here except for plumbing vent stack flashing or brick (chimney, wall, etc.) and masonry applications where it is used as a reglet counter flashing because of it's pliability.

(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/27-150221090250-481741691.jpeg)

One problem with the longevity of lead.....squirrels. I've had to replace a couple of vent stacks on my home after the squirrels chomped on them. Seems that painting the lead keeps the squirrels from having an easy snack.  :)

I watched a mason replace (chewed up :-) ) lead flashing, exactly how you showed.  That was fascinating to watch, I had no idea how that was done.  (We got lucky, the masons were building a new chimney on an addition next door, I asked if they wanted a small job.  The guy came over and looked, said "Yeah, we'll be done early tomorrow, so we can come over and fix your chimney." It's hard to get anyone to come out, let alone to do work in "real-time".)

dave

QuoteLove the roof color and weathering.

Thanks very much, Tom.  In truth I painted the roof gun metal, then dark green, decided the green just didn't work with the other colours of the structure and so painted it gun metal again!  Then came the dry brushing and rust pigments.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteExcellent coloring on the roof.

Thanks for your continued support and comments, Curt!

Cheers, Mark.

Thanks for all that great information, Gregory!

I'm guessing that lead being so malleable makes it a particularly useful flashing material.

Cheers, Mark.

Hi guys.

A little update.

Since we are on the topic of flashings - here is my extension flashing for where the shop meets the factory wall.  Masking tape painted grey.  They would often step these flashings with returns into the brick mortar lines - but there is only so far I am willing to go!  I do have a city to build!

Photo 1 - shows the flashing.  I returned it up the wall by about 3mm, as the roof thickness will take 1 - 1.5mm.

Obviously, if I have done this, the shop is now attached to the factory.  Before doing this I had to finish the shop off.  I removed the date sign, which I wasn't happy with, and painted another (with a closer date to the prototype) blue, and when dry sanded the blue of the lettering off on a sanding stick.  I hung a bike in the window, and made a hook and some tires to hang by the door.  Blinds were added to the doors.

Photo 2 - shows the shop front.

I also printed off a bike shop interior, attached it to a piece of black card, and added it to the interior in an arc.

Photo 3 - shows a close up through the window.  If you look closely you should be able to see a man working on a bike and a whole heap of tools on the wall behind him.

More soon, cheers, Mark.

Very nice Mark.

Quote from: mark dalrymple on February 16, 2021, 04:45:15 PM
Thanks for all that great information, Gregory!

I'm guessing that lead being so malleable makes it a particularly useful flashing material.

Cheers, Mark.

You're welcome Mark.....you are correct about the lead, but it does have a limited application because of that malleability. Eave, rake, angle or cap flashing's need a more rigid metal to do the job they are required to do for a roof.

Wow, Mark. That storefront and interior is lovely! Love that guy working away inside! Great work, Sir.

Mark your usual beautiful work!!


Jerry

QuoteVery nice Mark.

Thanks, Curt.  I'm pleased you like it.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteWow, Mark. That storefront and interior is lovely! Love that guy working away inside! Great work, Sir.

Thanks, Craig.

I was pleased how the printed picture worked.  I tried to find something in colour that would look appropriate in a 1930's shop.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteMark your usual beautiful work!!

Thanks very much, Jerry.

Next up is the roof for the shop and the loading dock lean-to roof.

Cheers, Mark.

That store front is really neat looking Mark.  Very well done!  :D

Hey Mark:

Looks just beautiful.

Karl

QuoteThat store front is really neat looking Mark.  Very well done!

Thanks very much, Bob.

Its been a fun build.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteHey Mark:

Looks just beautiful.

Thanks so much, Karl.

Its been great having you cheering me on from the sidelines.

Cheers, Mark.

Hi guys.

Progress yesterday included making the loading dock veranda, installing and flashing the copula, installing and weathering the stack, and adding the roofing to the shop.

I cut a piece of black card that was a good fit for the alcove and covered it in masking tape, leaving the tape proud by about 1mm on the front and 2mm on the other 3 sides.  6"x2"s rafters were cut with plumb cuts on my chopper and added to the underside of the roof at 18" spacings.  I added a beam along the front and then added a 4"x4" along the back wall for the rafters to sit on.  Once the glue had set I added glue and pushed the roof into position.  The flashings were bent up at 90 degrees before sliding into position (and the front 1mm overhand was melded down over the edge), and these were pushed into the walls with my small steel ruler.  The roof was painted black and weathered with white pigment.

Photo 1 - shows the loading dock roof. 

I used Bar Mills shingles for the shop roof.  I marked the shingle spacings on the roof in pencil (must remember to use red pen next time, as after I had added the double sided tape the pencil was very hard to see) and then covered with double sided tape.  The shingles were added using glue as necessary.  I trimmed a couple of mm's off the back of the top row to keep the tile size consistent.  The roof was then flipped and the tiles carefully trimmed with a sharp knife leaving them slightly proud of the card roof.  I used my lighter copic marker to colour the edges of the shingles.  At this stage I glued the roof to the structure using canopy glue.  I had previously added four roof supports out of bracing timber, one each side of the ridge, and one each side just up from the side walls.  I folded copper tape, trimmed to about 5mm, over the ridge.  The bottom edge of this is at the same spacing as a new row of shingles would be.

Photo's 2 & 3 - show the tile roof on the shop.  I still have to paint the concrete step.

I added the copula including a bottom flashing from masking tape painted grey, folded over the tiles at front and back.  Lastly, I added the tall stack at the back.  I added thin strips of masking tape painted grey around the stack at even spacings to represent joins and weathered the stack with pigments.  I glued and propped to keep things straight.

Photo 4 - shows the whole structure as it looks now.  I'll get a close up of the stack and the copula flashings.

More soon, cheers, Mark.

Gorgeous.

QuoteGorgeous.

Thanks so much, Bob.

I got out a couple of boxes of LBP's yesterday to paint up.  There are a few punks in one of the boxes - I thought I might have a go at hair cuts to make them look like 1932 LBP's.

Cheers, Mark.

This looks fantastic. That brick work turned out really nice.

Mark, Cheers,

It looks really great. The brick and mortar look very natural to me. I love it, well done.

Tom  ;D

Hi guys.

Thanks very much for your comments, Craig and Tom.

Just thought I would upload a photo of my LBP I have painted up for this structure so far.

More soon, cheers, Mark.

Hey Mark:

Looks great especially the signs.

Karl

Those figures look great. Are they the completely unpainted Preisers?

Thanks Karl and Craig.

Karl - the signs are always a lot of fun.  I was pleased with the pictures I found.

Craig - yep.  Bulk packets of 30 through to 120.  In NZ we pay around $20 for a five packet of painted figures whereas lest than twice that will buy you 120 unpainted figures.  I quite enjoy it, but can only do a couple of hours in a sitting.  And drilling holes in the bottom of their feet for pins is quite challenging!

Cheers, Mark.

Lovely work! Those are some of the best painted HO people I have ever seen.


Thanks for setting the bar so high for the rest of us!

Hey Mark:

The figures look just great.

Karl

Great job with the little people Mark..... 8)

Mark beautiful work on the build.


Jerry

Thanks so much for your comments, Darryl, Karl, Gregory and Jerry!

Darryl - you are too kind!

I'll be back to finishing this one off soon - just a major 1:1 project underway at the moment.

Cheers, Mark.

Hey Mark:

You are quite welcome.

Karl

Hi guys.

Well today I put the finishing touches on my challenge build - at least until I place it on the layout.

Photo 1 - shows the little awning I built above the service center door.

Photo 2 - shows the guy wires attached to the stack.  I used embroidery thread, tying knots around nut-bolt-washer castings I drilled and glued into the roof (and a pin into the fascia of the service center wall under the corrugated iron roof).  I drilled three holes in the stack and threaded the thread through these and attached reversible tweezers to the ends.  One of the threads I pulled through the opposite side hole and wrapped this around the stack a few times.  I used CA to attach the threads to the inside of the stack.  Extra thread was trimmed with nail clippers.

Photo 3 - shows the mini scene on the loading dock.  I will add scenes to the upper delivery door when in situ, as well as to the footpath in front of the shop.

Photo 4 - shows a close up of the shop front with bicycle hanging on display and a worker working on a bike.  (I see I need to touch up the bottom of the doors).

Photo 5 shows Zealandia cycle works slightly from the right.  I also added a chimney to the main part of the structure and a stack to the service center.

Photo 6 - shows Zealandia cycle works from the front.

This was a fun project.  Thank you all for following along.

Cheers, Mark.

Simply stunning!  Well done all around Mark.   :D 

Great build, Mark.  I love the store front.

Jeff

QuoteSimply stunning!  Well done all around Mark.

Thanks so much, Bob.

I think these kits can be turned into something pretty cool, and with a different look to the majority of what's available.

I'm presently having a bit of a torrid time with my Scale Structures Tickners Watchworks.  The front wall casting was awful - filled with air bubbles, many on the doors and the corners.  I think if I had of known how much work was involved in repairing it I would have thrown my toys.  I did send a terse email, but it got ignored.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteGreat build, Mark.  I love the store front.

Thanks, Steve.

I think placing the structure in situ with the surrounding roads at various heights will both help make more sense of the structure and add a lot of drama.  I'm looking forward to doing this.  I can see I will have to cut my 'backwall diorama' into smaller pieces.  As I add the heft of these structures the weight gets too much to lift the diorama in and out, not to mention I worry the polystyrene bass will snap and cause damage.

Cheers, Mark.

Mark


Excellent modeling, my friend. I have got a bit behind in reading the build threads the past few weeks and really enjoyed catching up with your thread. I'm looking forward to seeing this on your layout.

QuoteExcellent modeling, my friend. I have got a bit behind in reading the build threads the past few weeks and really enjoyed catching up with your thread. I'm looking forward to seeing this on your layout.

Thanks so much, John.

I stopped by the train room after putting my car away this afternoon to have a look at how I might cut up my back wall diorama into smaller chunks.  I'm already eager to get this one sited.

Cheers, Mark.

Mark,
Your kit bash came out great.
It will be a great addition to your layout...Well done sir !
Tommy

Very cool, Mark! The brick work came out great. Love the whimsy of the overall design.

Your efforts with these plastic kits has inspired me to buy a few cheap Kibri, Faller and Atlas kits on eBay.

QuoteMark,
Your kit bash came out great.
It will be a great addition to your layout...Well done sir !

Thanks so much, Tommy.

I'm really looking forward to working this one into the hillside of Tellynott.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteVery cool, Mark! The brick work came out great. Love the whimsy of the overall design.

Your efforts with these plastic kits has inspired me to buy a few cheap Kibri, Faller and Atlas kits on eBay.

Thank you, Craig.

I hope you have fun with those plastic kits.  I have found Kibri kits to be extremely high quality with some fantastic ornate brickwork.  The Walthers Cornerstone line also have some great structure kits.  Vollmer is another brand I have found to be very good.  And, of course, DPM.

Some of the larger kits have a side and front wall of one design and a side and back wall of another.  These I have found if I buy 2 kits I can combine each sort to create 2 large kitbashes.  Walthers American Hardware comes to mind.  I have also enjoyed working with Walthers Milwaukee beer and ale.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteI'm presently having a bit of a torrid time with my Scale Structures Tickners Watchworks.  The front wall casting was awful - filled with air bubbles, many on the doors and the corners.  I think if I had of known how much work was involved in repairing it I would have thrown my toys.  I did send an email, but it got ignored.

I emailed Scale Structures again and finally got a response and an apology.  The chap I was communicating with is going to cast me up a replacement front wall personally over the weekend.

Cheers, Mark.

Cheers, Mark,

Glad to hear Scale Structures got back to you. Magnusson was excellent at replacing bad wall casting. I only had one out of all the kits I have under the layout and the wall in question arrived four days after my inquiry.

Oh, excellent job on kitbash #2.

Tom  ;D

Hey Mark:

Looking just beautiful.

Karl

QuoteCheers, Mark,

Glad to hear Scale Structures got back to you. Magnusson was excellent at replacing bad wall casting. I only had one out of all the kits I have under the layout and the wall in question arrived four days after my inquiry.

Oh, excellent job on kitbash #2.

Thanks, Tom.

Yes - I've had a good look at all the other Magnuson and Scale Structures kits when I bought them, and apart from warpage on a few, they have all looked good.  I love the detail on some of the fronts.  Quite unique.

I believe I am also to receive a voucher with the replacement walls to make up for the hassle.

Cheers, Mark.

QuoteHey Mark:

Looking just beautiful.

Thanks so much, Karl.

It was a fun build and it will be fun to set it into the landscape.  I'll be uploading progress of that over the next few weeks in my Shadowlands and Tellynott thread.

Cheers, Mark.

As usual another beautiful build.  Brick work is perfect.


Jerry

Hey Mark:

You are quite welcome.

Karl