Fountain Brewery kitbash #2 - 2021 winter build challenge

[ACL1504]

Mark, Cheers,

Love the roof color and weathering.

Tom 

[PRR Modeler]

Excellent coloring on the roof.

[GPdemayo]

Excellent job on the roof Mark

You are correct about the valley flashing. Generally all roofing, if installed correctly, will utilize a metal valley and hard roofing (slate, cement, cedar, etc.) is no exception. It is common practice, over here, to install the dry-in felt sheet over the roof sheathing and overlap the valleys at least 18". The metal is placed in the valley at least 12" on other side of the valley centerline, kind of like a shallow "V". The roofing is then installed over the metal holding off 4" to 6" off the centerline - called an open valley application.

Thanks very much, Gregory.

Thanks for the extra information and the photo.  I really like the red valley flashing - it really pops.  I have also seen tile roofs where the tiles actually meet at the valley.  I assume there must still be a valley flashing underneath.  All the prototype photos I found of this I thought looked most untidy.  I did my valleys the same as your photo.

Cheers, Mark.

You're welcome Mark.

The sheet metal shown in the photo is copper. When using a high end material, like copper for roofing, it is always a good idea to use a material like copper that has a good chance of lasting as look as the slate. The pecking order for the quality of roof flashing, from best to worse is: copper, stainless steel, aluminum and galvanized steel.

Your assumption about a valley under a closed valley is correct. For all reliable roof systems, it is always required to have some form of valley, generally metal,  under the visible roof covering (wood, metal, clay or cement tile, asphalt or fiberglass shingles, etc.)

[deemery]

Greg, great info.  Where's lead in your 'ranking of flashing'? 


dave

[GPdemayo]

Greg, great info.  Where's lead in your 'ranking of flashing'? 

dave

I forgot all about lead Dave....it is probably the best flashing and is still doing it's job after 500 years on some buildings in Europe.

Like copper, the cost of lead (about $20.00 per sf for 1/16") keeps it from more widespread use here except for plumbing vent stack flashing or brick (chimney, wall, etc.) and masonry applications where it is used as a reglet counter flashing because of it's pliability.



One problem with the longevity of lead.....squirrels. I've had to replace a couple of vent stacks on my home after the squirrels chomped on them. Seems that painting the lead keeps the squirrels from having an easy snack. 

[deemery]

I watched a mason replace (chewed up :-) ) lead flashing, exactly how you showed.  That was fascinating to watch, I had no idea how that was done.  (We got lucky, the masons were building a new chimney on an addition next door, I asked if they wanted a small job.  The guy came over and looked, said "Yeah, we'll be done early tomorrow, so we can come over and fix your chimney." It's hard to get anyone to come out, let alone to do work in "real-time".)

dave

[Mark Dalrymple]

Love the roof color and weathering.

Thanks very much, Tom.  In truth I painted the roof gun metal, then dark green, decided the green just didn't work with the other colours of the structure and so painted it gun metal again!  Then came the dry brushing and rust pigments.

Cheers, Mark.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Excellent coloring on the roof.

Thanks for your continued support and comments, Curt!

Cheers, Mark.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Thanks for all that great information, Gregory!

I'm guessing that lead being so malleable makes it a particularly useful flashing material.

Cheers, Mark.

[Mark Dalrymple]

Hi guys.

A little update.

Since we are on the topic of flashings - here is my extension flashing for where the shop meets the factory wall.  Masking tape painted grey.  They would often step these flashings with returns into the brick mortar lines - but there is only so far I am willing to go!  I do have a city to build!

Photo 1 - shows the flashing.  I returned it up the wall by about 3mm, as the roof thickness will take 1 - 1.5mm.

Obviously, if I have done this, the shop is now attached to the factory.  Before doing this I had to finish the shop off.  I removed the date sign, which I wasn't happy with, and painted another (with a closer date to the prototype) blue, and when dry sanded the blue of the lettering off on a sanding stick.  I hung a bike in the window, and made a hook and some tires to hang by the door.  Blinds were added to the doors.

Photo 2 - shows the shop front.

I also printed off a bike shop interior, attached it to a piece of black card, and added it to the interior in an arc.

Photo 3 - shows a close up through the window.  If you look closely you should be able to see a man working on a bike and a whole heap of tools on the wall behind him.

More soon, cheers, Mark.

[PRR Modeler]

Very nice Mark.

[GPdemayo]

Thanks for all that great information, Gregory!

I'm guessing that lead being so malleable makes it a particularly useful flashing material.

Cheers, Mark.

You're welcome Mark.....you are correct about the lead, but it does have a limited application because of that malleability. Eave, rake, angle or cap flashing's need a more rigid metal to do the job they are required to do for a roof.

[Keep It Rusty]

Wow, Mark. That storefront and interior is lovely! Love that guy working away inside! Great work, Sir.

[Jerry]

Mark your usual beautiful work!!


Jerry

[Mark Dalrymple]

Very nice Mark.

Thanks, Curt.  I'm pleased you like it.

Cheers, Mark.