AH!, very good

ok let me know how you make out

Did you call Bar MIlls? I see on the site he has a message about it, but maybe you could offer to pay for them?

Yeah  have on too...biggest hump I had was supports. Ended up using a different slicer. Anycubic slicer is a little awkward. watched a lot of utube movies on supports too... good luck!

man that's an old one....I made some add-ons for that one and posted them to yahoo groups back in march 2003, if you want the pdf I can mail it to you (the pic is on the lower left of the instructions color photo page) loading docks, shed, different vent

Chimneys for the hotel are sold separate, they are called "two story chimney" and are $12.95 each...BUT they are not on the website, so if anyone needs them soon, just call. But Art said he would update the site soon to fix it.

WOW from July to now I was following this one......glad you got it done! I never have finished mine, did a prototype build up up, but never finished my painted version. Beautiful job, send some pics to Arte. I was a little scared with all the interior you were doing , thinking, there's no way this is ever going to go together (ha!) But holy cow , there it is in all of of it's amazing glory ! Great job on those porches, they are the trickiest parts I think.
Thanks for building it!

Just give Bruce a call

http://www.thehobbygallery.com/union-dredging

How I do the laser cut is as follows
Self stick is really only there to hold things temporarily as an assembly tool. It works really well on shiny smooth surfaces, but is only so-so on rougher ones. works great for the acetate, but wood to wood ...eh? sometimes...(!)
1. Attach sills with the self stick to the bottom of the frame (not a lot of SS here but it is just there to hold it for a bit)(sometimes I run a little ACC along
    bottom of sill to help)
2. Attach the upper panes now to the back of the frame (self Stick)
3. now position the lower panes where you want them. If they are fairly high up , there is really no adhesive,
    so use a little ACC applied on the edges with a toothpick, it'll wick in and hold it together.
4. I now apply the front top trim if there's any.
5. self stick works fairly well on task board , but not so much on basswood (especially clapboard) . But I never really trust it to hold a window on,
   probably work for a few years, but it the building gets handled I see this stuff slide a round. I apply a lot (!) of wood glue all around the window hole,
   especially in the corners. I then press the window in from the front. This pushes any excess glue to the back, but also fills in the edges and glues the
   window together better. If any gets on acetate, wipe off.

Sorry about the bracing your right on part #4.
The roof bracing on parts 6 and 7 was supposed to be to scale on the instructions , It should be about .215" down from top (use cheap digital calipers to mark it....probably not too critical.)

ha! very cool!

Those kits were certainly ahead of their time, pretty cool how you figured it so far!
I sent you a message, let me know what you think

neat color transfer technique ...might work for putting signs on buildings...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Y5vZDfk_tk

Startin' to look like stamp mill...

That looks so cool, to bad it all gets hidden...
What you need is some tiny cameras inside that transmit video to screen on the front of the layout