Kit bashed FGE Truss Rod reefers

Started by cduckworth, March 03, 2025, 08:02:35 AM

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cduckworth

These two reefers started life as Accurail models; I carved off the cast on hand holds and ladders and replaced with wire versions and separate ladders. The underframes were scratch built from Evergreen styrene, short Tichy queen posts on one car and the longer angled queen posts I found available on Shapeways. Fishing line used for the rodding. Turn buckles are Tichy or another brand (I've had them over 40 years). Decals from National Scale Car.
Charlie Duckworth
Modeling the Mopac and Rock Island in the Missouri Ozarks.

ACL1504

Charlie,

Nicely done, look great.

Tom 
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

GPdemayo

Gregory P. DeMayo
General Construction Superintendent Emeritus
St. Louis & Denver Railroad
Longwood, FL

deemery

(I tried to post this earlier, looks like it didn't take.)

I use monofilament for truss rods, usually starting at one end (tie a knot, then pass the mono from above).  I lay the mono alongside the queenposts, and lace through the holes, adding the turnbuckles as necessary.  Then, after the last hole, I attach a hemostat clamp to the running line, turn the car upside down, and adjust tension. 
other end truss rods.jpg
On this car, (hopper bottom gondola) I ran each truss rod separately.

Then I put CA on the first hole and last hole.  I pull the mono over the queenposts, and adjust tension if necessary.  Then I put a drop of CA on each hole, and on the queenposts (to prevent the mono from slipping off.)

If you're careful, you can paint the truss rod and turnbuckle, leaving the clear mono in the middle of the turnbuckle, so it looks like there are two rods connected with that turnbuckle.

dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

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