Merchant's Row III - A Magnuson Build.

Started by ACL1504, April 16, 2025, 04:51:39 PM

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GPdemayo

Gregory P. DeMayo
General Construction Superintendent Emeritus
St. Louis & Denver Railroad
Longwood, FL

Mark Dalrymple

Quote from: ACL1504 on April 21, 2025, 05:17:02 PM
Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on April 19, 2025, 09:05:48 PMHi Tom.

With those vertical columns on the end walls it would be very easy to reduce the width of the block if needed.

Cheers, Mark.


Mark, Cheers,

Very interesting observation my friend. That is one reason I haven't glued the walls together on this one. It seems we are thinking along the same lines. However, the side walls have the brick details as the rear wall is glued to the insides of the two side walls.

I was thinking I could cover or partially cover this with a rear downspout and scupper.

Tom

You could also make two cuts and splice the two ends together, thus keeping the brickwork on the end.  If you make both cuts the same side of a column, the join should be invisible.  But yes, there are many ways to hide the join - just study George Sellio's work for ideas on how to do this.

Cheers, Mark.

ACL1504

Quote from: Mark Dalrymple on April 24, 2025, 01:54:02 AMHi Tom.



You could also make two cuts and splice the two ends together, thus keeping the brickwork on the end.  If you make both cuts the same side of a column, the join should be invisible.  But yes, there are many ways to hide the join - just study George Sellio's work for ideas on how to do this.

Cheers, Mark.

Mark, Cheers,

Yes, that is an ideal but I think for times sake, I can hide the end with a downspout or weeds. Actually, I'm not even sure the ends will show all that much detail.

Tom 
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

tct855

ACL 1504~,
             Hey brotherman, just stopped by for a diet pepsi. ;D
                                                                    KP-out...

ACL1504

Quote from: tct855 on April 27, 2025, 10:59:19 AMACL 1504~,
            Hey brotherman, just stopped by for a diet pepsi. ;D
                                                                    KP-out...

Brother T,

They are in the small frig under the coaling tower. Help yourself.

Tom 
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

tom.boyd.125

 Tom, like the tip of taking the resin walls and let them cook in the sun to make them flat. Hope you can add a Pepsi sign to the model...Tommy
Tom Boyd in NE Minnesota
tommytrains22@yahoo.com

Pennman

#21
Tom,

Seeking help from the Master Craftsman of warped kit walls, I have a modeling question for you, Sir.

I have two walls in a Master Creations Blandings & Gallard C & C Co. kit, that the resin walls are
slightly warped on the main structure. Should I glue square tubing to the structure wall (as you have
done in the past on another Magnuson project), before attempting to straighten them or just glue them
to the walls without doing that first?
My thought is if I do glue first, that the walls may break, as the warp is slightly evident, but enough
to warrant another method. I would hate to see them break without trying something else first.

Thanks,
Rich

ACL1504

Rich,

I have that same kit and my walls are only slightly warped also.  Some of the walls are thick and some very thin. Before you epoxy the walls, lay them on a flat surface like a piece of glass. Lay the glass and the walls in the sun and monitor the heat. I've had great success with this method.

https://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=6988.0

Even after leaving them in the sun for about an hour, the walls were still very slightly warped, but much less so. I haven't put them in the sun for a second time as I've been on other projects.

If the walls are slightly warped as you say, try the sun and glass method. If that fails, the epoxy method will most definitely work.

I don't recommend putting them in a micro wave. If the sun won't help you can use the brass (my preferable method). I guess aluminum square stock would would work but I've never used the aluminum. Do not use wood squares as it won't keep the walls from the warp.

When you epoxy the square tubing, be sure to allow/measure for the corner walls to fit. You want the walls to be as square as possible, it makes adding the corner wall much easier.

Hope this helps with you journey. I've had excellent results using the square tubing.

Tom
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

ACL1504

Quote from: tom.boyd.125 on April 27, 2025, 04:39:26 PMTom, like the tip of taking the resin walls and let them cook in the sun to make them flat. Hope you can add a Pepsi sign to the model...Tommy
Tommy,

Sorry, I missed your post. My apologies.

I will definitely add Pepsi signs where I can.

Tom
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

Pennman

Tom,

Thank you for the technique again. I will definitely try the warped wall on glass treatment in the sun before proceeding further. I will report back with my results. PS: It may be a while as I am not ready to build it yet.

Rich

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