Does EnviroTex Lite attack Zombies???

[ranny9]

Got your attention, didn't I? I'm trying to come up with a way to insert/bury weeds and cattails on the bottom of my creek. Perhaps assemble them on a thin sheet of silicone caulking, making sure they stand up straight, then let dry and glue the assembly to the bottom surface of the creek before pouring the EnviroTex. Does EnviroTex attack any materials? What do you guys and gals do?

[martin.ojaste]

I've had added fish and things in it after it has been poured. I wait a few hours then stick them in so they suspend, but adding grass and stuff will not be a problem.

[ranny9]

Thanks Martin. I'm thinking of fish also, but mostly concerned about 'foreign' caulks, glues and other adhesives.

[martin.ojaste]

Woodland water effects chalk works fine, any of the really clear chalks should be ok. For other glues, once they are dry/cured it should not react. If I remember correctly it's the moisture that could cloud the epoxy over time.


Make a little test sample first before you do it on the real thing.


Btw: i used solder spats as star fish and cut slivers of solder for schools of fish. Cheap and fast.

[ranny9]

Woodland water effects chalk works fine, any of the really clear chalks should be ok. For other glues, once they are dry/cured it should not react. If I remember correctly it's the moisture that could cloud the epoxy over time.


Make a little test sample first before you do it on the real thing.

I hadn't thought about the moisture factor. You are absolutely right about a test first...easy peasy.

[Kingred]

Btw: i used solder spats as star fish and cut slivers of solder for schools of fish. Cheap and fast.

I'm really intrigued by this idea and would really love to see a few shots of the results if you have some, Martin.

~Kingred

[martin.ojaste]

I will see if I can photograph it. I love the challenge of shooting through 1/4" of epoxy onto 6" N scale fish and star fish that are shiny and reflect light. LOL.


marty

[Mike Engler]

I've worked with Envirotex several times. First, you can use any oil-base or acrylic paint to tint it. If you pour several ⅛ inch pours a day apart, again make some very small batches in something with water-tight compartments like a bead organizer to test what will happen. You won't have to paint the floor of the container- just use darker tints on the lower layers, and work toward clear on top layers. I usually add the pond debris like bark pieces, leaves, branches, etc. just to the final layer or two. Again experiment- while you are testing shades of color, throw in small pieces of bark or ground cover to see what they will look like.


I try to adhere all weeds, grasses, rocks, branches, fish, etc. before I start pouring layers. Especially things like reeds, cat-tails, grasses. Even when you think it has set-up enough so that you can "plant" these weeds and have them stay vertical, after twenty minutes you will notice the Envirotex has wicked up the plant and it has keeled over. Call the 800# on the package, and tell them you have a model railroading scenery question. They actually have people on staff that will know if there are some materials not compatible with Envirotex Lite (I'm not aware of any), and are very helpful.


Wicking can be a problem all around the shore line of rivers or ponds/ lakes. One way to prevent is to paint a ⅛ inch line of Envirotex (or whatever your pour depth) around the shoreline just above the current waterline. The new pour usually won't wick past the newly painted line. If you have some places where a little wicking has occurred on the scenery, it will dry clear and just looks wet- might be desirable unless you are modeling a perfectly still pond. You can also put a little glue on and sprinkle on your scenery material to cover up the wet looking areas if you don't like them.


Make sure your pond, river, etc. is completely water tight around its entire perimeter on your layout or diorama. It can seep through very small holes. I was paranoid about this and used lots tof towels underneath just in case, but never have had any problem. Even a cut-off area of a stream that adjoined the diorama edge was successfully dammed up with blue masking tape to keep the stuff from leaking through.

[ranny9]

I've worked with Envirotex several times. First, you can use any oil-base or acrylic paint to tint it. If you pour several ⅛ inch pours a day apart, again make some very small batches in something with water-tight compartments like a bead organizer to test what will happen. You won't have to paint the floor of the container- just use darker tints on the lower layers, and work toward clear on top layers. I usually add the pond debris like bark pieces, leaves, branches, etc. just to the final layer or two. Again experiment- while you are testing shades of color, throw in small pieces of bark or ground cover to see what they will look like.


I try to adhere all weeds, grasses, rocks, branches, fish, etc. before I start pouring layers. Especially things like reeds, cat-tails, grasses. Even when you think it has set-up enough so that you can "plant" these weeds and have them stay vertical, after twenty minutes you will notice the Envirotex has wicked up the plant and it has keeled over. Call the 800# on the package, and tell them you have a model railroading scenery question. They actually have people on staff that will know if there are some materials not compatible with Envirotex Lite (I'm not aware of any), and are very helpful.


Wicking can be a problem all around the shore line of rivers or ponds/ lakes. One way to prevent is to paint a ⅛ inch line of Envirotex (or whatever your pour depth) around the shoreline just above the current waterline. The new pour usually won't wick past the newly painted line. If you have some places where a little wicking has occurred on the scenery, it will dry clear and just looks wet- might be desirable unless you are modeling a perfectly still pond. You can also put a little glue on and sprinkle on your scenery material to cover up the wet looking areas if you don't like them.


Make sure your pond, river, etc. is completely water tight around its entire perimeter on your layout or diorama. It can seep through very small holes. I was paranoid about this and used lots tof towels underneath just in case, but never have had any problem. Even a cut-off area of a stream that adjoined the diorama edge was successfully dammed up with blue masking tape to keep the stuff from leaking through.

Thanks Mike, all good info. Don't you glue your weeds and cattails down first, before the pouring?

[Mike Engler]

Thanks Mike, all good info. Don't you glue your weeds and cattails down first, before the pouring?

Yes, but many are surface weeds (like lily pads) and other weeds are too short too be adhered to the bottom. My log pond was almost one inch deep (7 ⅛" pours) as it contained many mostly submerged logs.

[ranny9]

Great discussion here. Has anyone sealed the bottom with ModPodge BEFORE pouring the Envirotex to keep the little bubbles from seeping UP from the painted foam bottom?

[martin.ojaste]

Envirotec epxoy can be thinned by 15% with denatured alcohol (lacquer thinner) and then the thinned epxoy can be painted lightly on all surfaces. This will help seal the small cracks and soak into the scenery. If there are any leaks, they will showup, then you can deal with them.


Marty

[ranny9]

Envirotec epxoy can be thinned by 15% with denatured alcohol (lacquer thinner) and then the thinned epxoy can be painted lightly on all surfaces. This will help seal the small cracks and soak into the scenery. If there are any leaks, they will showup, then you can deal with them.


Marty

I did not know that! Thanks a BUNCH Martin.

[gnatshop]

Just make sure that I'm not around when you use it!! 

[Mike Engler]

Hey, the new "Lite" formula has virtually no odor, and certainly no toxic fumes, as I am here to tell the tale.