Treadwell and Ware

Started by kathy.millatt, January 16, 2015, 04:24:41 PM

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kathy.millatt

I spent half the day shingling after a few hours in the week.



Finally it was done.





There's a few sections where shingling up the dormers made the slates go out of sync. I ended up putting some half shingles here which I hadn't needed on the half of the roof. Hopefully it won't show when painted up.  Some of the ridge tiles have lifted a bit.  We'll see if it settles down.



It is common, and Bob VG recommends, to colour the shingles with felt tip pens.



I used a grey shade first.





Then I used two brown shades.



I then used a much darker brown shade.



I wasn't happy with the result. The colour lacks the depth of reality. So I thought I would try a few coats of enamel washes to unify the colour and tie everything together.

I masked the windows and then sprayed the roof with a liberal coat of Dullcote.



I used a Mig Neutral wash first. You can see it on the right of the roof.



It's a step in the right direction when you compare the depth it gives but I still wasn't happy.



Each individual slate has a small bit of pale grey where it goes under the slates above. I really should have coloured the slates before laying them.

I tried a black wash to see if that would help. The wash creeps under the tiles but is so thin that it doesn't sit there.



I'm waiting for it to dry and then I'll try an acrylic wash. The pigments are bigger so may stay in the cracks better.

I've been thinking about the NMRA British Region challenge which I'm supposedly building this for. It would normally take me 6 months to do a diorama like this and the challenge takes 3 months. I knew when I started that it would be close but with Christmas I was hopeful. It's now January and I know that with the Half Year BOD meeting and other commitments that it's unlikely I will finish by the deadline.

After last year, when I was challenged to finish stuff for my MMR and wound up modelling when I really didn't want to, I burnt out and gave up modelling for 8 months. I'm therefore very keen that I just pootle on modelling as and when I enjoy it.

I am someone who needs deadlines to be motivated but if my hobby becomes too driven, it becomes a chore rather than a joy. I model for fun not work. I love being engrossed in something that uses completely different skills and thought processes to my day job.

That's a long winded way of saying that this may not be finished by 1st March but it will get done. Then I can get on with a bit of TLC on my layout and, of course, my new Optimus Prime kit!

kathy.millatt

I wanted more depth to the colours so I added a wash of Tamiya Green Black diluted with water.



The roof is a bit too green but I like the depth I'm now getting.





I followed it up with a Mig Neutral wash.



The ridge tiles have been bothering me. They are too even and a bit large. Hmmmm. I added dark lines and some colours with felt tip pens.



I wanted to add some mottling and lichen. I used Ash White Mig pigments with green, yellow and white Vallejo paints.



I splodged it on a section and it was too stark (top right) and then used the neutral wash to tone it back down a bit (middle right).







Here's what it looks like after the was. I did the whole roof. I do like it. It suits the building colours better.



I'm letting it all dry so I moved it on to the "L".



There's another dormer on the side.



The one end has no supports so there is a brace for the walls and the roof section. I wish I had read on to this because I've already added my own braces. I did find the walls shifted when I had the problems with the loose joint. My "L" is not square. Oops. I added the roof brace before I realised how wonky it was...



There's a gap to the right of the front roof.



I put some cardboard in the gap and had to move the dormer gap to the right a bit too.



I added some bracing at the other end of the building too because the roof is removable and I want to keep the roof angle. I eventually trimmed the internal brace so you can get roof on and off when the building is glued in place.



I put the standard 2" x 12" wood and trimmed the roof to match.



I added in the roof joist too. It acts as a mask of any gaps, phew.  Finally, I put a magnet under one corner to hold it down.



kathy.millatt

There are some evenings when nothing goes right!

I built all my buildings over the templates (square ones!). However, none of my buildings are quite straight (apart from the main building). I think I know why.

Ware was ok until I tried to fit the brick extension in. That caused the one side to be slightly longer. With hindsight, I should have either cut down the brick template or added a piece of wood shim on the other side to even it out.

The L was built over the canal walls and I swear it was square when I first glued it. There's actually a square back brace but that isn't mentioned until many pages after the walls are glued. I normally read on but had missed this. Because one side wasn't braced the walls moved. I think when I glued it back I wasn't as straight as I thought I was.  Because the bottom isn't level it makes it impossible to glue on the plan.

You can see how far out it is here when you see how I had to glue the canal walls which the L sits on.



Finally, The dormer roof doesn't quite cover the width of the dormer but I hope the trim will sort it out.

I left it setting with masking tape and a weight holding it down.



On top of that I knocked over a glass of my painting water and my tacky glue decided to dribble watery glue everywhere (apparently it has condensated and it all ran out). At this point I went out! It seemed safest.

On the plus side, my diorama is coming together and I don't think the slightly off walls will show. I won't tell if you don't!





kathy.millatt

That's me up to date.

I spent the day doing chores but managed to sneak in a few minutes. I'm doing the L interior.

I built a floor (not straight :) ) for the ground floor and painted it with a Mig Wash because I wanted the wood grain to show through. I also glued in a first floor - I'm not going to light this but it will allow me to put a box in the window and put a suggestion of use.



You can see the dormer gap now the masking tape is off. I will put the trim on and hope it covers it.


ACL1504

#34
Kathy,

Looks like I'm late to your party. Welcome to this forum and I'm also very happy to see you back modeling.

Your Treadwell and Ware thread is wonderful. Great job.

Tom ;D
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

nextceo

Kathy,

   Fantastic. I love the colors of your stone and brick work. I also like your aged wood look on the Dormers.

Thanks for sharing!
Alan

kathy.millatt

Thanks Tom and Alan

It's great to be back!

Kathy

John B

Your Treadwell and Ware is looking great. I always wanted a SRM kit; but they are all a little on the large size and while my layout is 16 x 24, I think one of those kits would stick out like a sore thumb.  Thumbs up on your progress

bparrish

Kathy. 


That is just terrific. 

Thanx
Bob. 
Did you ever notice how many towns are named after their water towers ! ?

Mark Dalrymple

Looking fantastic, Kathy!

I'm hoping to find a SRM kit while at the Expo in Scranton in march.  Fingers crossed.  I'm a big fan of the ones with a lot of stonework in them (like the ones your working on).

Cheers, Mark.

NEMMRRC

Very good thread. I like how you have combined two of SRM kits.


Even though Ware Knitter is SRM's smallest kit, it is not a small structure.


Jaime

gnatshop

Your comment -
"I am someone who needs deadlines to be motivated but if my hobby becomes too driven, it becomes a chore rather than a joy. I model for fun not work. I love being engrossed in something that uses completely different skills and thought processes to my day job."
should be required reading and the gospel for all us modelers out here!!   Well said!   8) 8) 8) 8)

CVSNE

Kathy,
I loved following your thread on Martin Machine a few years ago - enjoying this as much if not more. The roof is one of the best looking slate roofs I've seen modeled! Well done!
Marty
Marty McGuirk
Manassas, VA

kathy.millatt

#43
Thanks Guys

It's great to have the support of the forum and I love your input!  It really does make a difference and the questions I get help me improve my modelling.  Still need to do my valleys for example.

David - I really have to watch that I don't overdo the hobby and I keep having to remind myself that it's fun! I now stop modelling when I've had enough rather than letting it become a chore.


I've been working on the L. I added in an attic floor and a few boxes as a view block. I'm not going to light this room so a suggestion of an interior is enough.



I glued the balsa wood ground floor in place.



And added a cardboard back wall. It was slightly warped so I put some hefty weights in place whilst it was drying.  I've got a door to glue on the back wall too.



I cut the rafter tails at 45 degree angles. I set the 90 degree guide the correct distance from the blade and used the 45 degree guide with a wood spacer to guide the wood into the chopper. It worked much better than I expected!



I glued them to the wall, not the roof, as the roof is removable. Ideally I would have glued to both...



I added the left over trim I had from the main building. I had just enough. Lucky!



I did the dormer too. It helped fill in that gap!



I've left it gluing up overnight and will then employ my secret weapon for cutting the trim: nail clippers! They are much easier then a knife to trim ends.



I've been thinking about wiring up the module. The wiring will be from underneath so I need to get the wiring down to the bottom. It's easy to snag wires so I used a hot wire tool to cut a hole and then pushed a straw down to act as a smooth conduit.



I've put 4 in at strategic locations under each building.



nextceo

Great job on your build. Thanks for all the explanations...

Alan

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