RSM Delwins Boat & Net Storage build.

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You are always thinking.
Bill

Bill,

Thanks for stopping by. I some times find it necessary to think outside the box on modeling.




Tom

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I added rafters to the underside of the boat lift canopy roof.

The horizontal bracing is glued in place to keep the roof from warping as the glued rafters dry.







The boat lift and canopy roofs were painted with Floquil SP Light Gray. When dry, I weathered them with PanPastel chalks.

Looks like the red wire is trying to escape.





More in a few.

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I applied two coats of Hunterline Creosote A&I to the lower piles and the horizontal braces. This is to show that  the piles have been in the water a long time.

Once the water is poured the piles will look dark under the water.




When the piles have dried for a day or so, I'll go over them with AK Interactive Slimy Grime Light and Dark where the water line will be.




More in a few.

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My over head lights bled into the next photo but here is a water level look at Delwin's.




Canopy roof supports still need to be added and so on and so on.

[MAP]

Wow!  This is some crazy great building Tom! 

[ACL1504]

Wow!  This is some crazy great building Tom!

Mark,

Thank you for the kind words of support. I'm glad you are enjoying the build thread.

I have more to add this afternoon.

Tom

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I started work on the boat lift frame and harness. However, I did a major overhaul on it.

I followed the basic frame structure and built it over the template. This is where I left the instructions.



The instructions suggested taking the .012 music wire and cut four equal pieces and super glue one on each corner. When the glue dries, you were to bend them up to meet in the middle.

I didn't think this would be realistically balanced so I changed this as well.

What I did was drill a #80 hole in each corner and super glued the wire into the hole, not just on the top of the frame.

I used a short piece of scale 6X8 and drilled a #80 hole in each end. I then bent the .012 music wire at an angle to fit into the holes and super glued them in place.

I also added corner braces.



Continued in a few.

[ACL1504]

I then bent the wire in a 90 degree angle. I drilled two additional holes in the scale 6X8 harness beam.



The wires were then pushed up through the beam from the bottom and glued in place.




More in a few.

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For the harness, the instructions suggested taking a piece of masking tape, folding it in half and cutting it in two six inch pieces.

Instead, I used two pieces of Evergreen Scale Models styrene strips. I used .010 X .125 (1/8") styrene. I glued one end to outside edge of the scale 6X8.




When dry, I glued the other two ends to the opposite side of the harness frame.

This is what I ended up with -



Diet Pepsi time ya'll. Back in a few.

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No need to install N&Bs to the harness as it won't been seen for that fine detail.




More in a few.

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Here is how it looks under the lift shed.




More in a few.

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The two harness straps were painted with Floquil Roof Brown.

The wires were painted with Floquil Old Silver.







A little more in a few.

[Janbouli]

Looks like you did the right thing Tom, much easier to hold the wires in place this way.

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Here is a look at the boat lift and canopy with lights.



I'll discussed how I wired the lights tomorrow evening.

Tom

[ACL1504]

Looks like you did the right thing Tom, much easier to hold the wires in place this way.

Jan,

Thank you. It looks more realistic to me and certainly makes more sense to have the harness balanced. Don't want to have to buy someone a new boat due to a faulty boat harness.


Tom