Building SRMW The Millett Creamery

[Janbouli]

Great build , love the brickwork and the colors, very convincing stuco.

[Vilius]

Thank you, Tom, Mark and Jan.

Since I had mix of plaster and urethane walls I sprayed them with gray automotive primer to get uniform surface. Then I painted brick patches. I will describe my method later. Then stucco. I used Suede craft paint by Craftsman (Michaels brand?). I am not sure if it comes that thick or mine just sat for too long but I had to dilute it with water and do two coats. After seeing paintbrush marks in the area where I tested undiluted paint I decided to try stippling the paint. It worked. The surface looked like smother version of stucco so I finished the rest of the building this way. Then I painted stone foundation with Dove Gray craft paint (I think it is available only in certain areas since I can't find it locally and it is still being produced. It was sent to me from Ohio along with a kit to build). Perhaps I could do the next step right away but I left the paint to dry for 24 hours. The next day I used two brown and one dark gray color somewhat diluted craft paints to do individual bricks. After it dried (10-15 min) I applied heavily diluted Dove Gray over the stones and set aside for another 24 hours. Then I applied my oil wash over entire structure. I didn't use any chalks. The wash is made of Turpenoid and oil paint. Mineral spirit can be used but Turpenoid is nearly odorless so I like it better. Some time ago I bought a box of Reeves oil paints. Included was tube Ivory Black. I used it for several years until I ran out of it. It wasn't pure black. It had some brown in it and I liked that aspect. After I ran out of it I got tube of Ivory Black for real artists. Unfortunately it turned out to be pure black oil paint. I had to get brown as well. I add them both in my mix now.
To be continued...

Vilius

[Vilius]

Bricks.

You can find info on how to do bricks right way in Karl Osolinski's thread on RR Forums here:
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=36835

Now how to paint bricks lazy man's way. First, I glue walls together with 5 min epoxy. Then apply masking tape on each side of joint leaving about 1/32-1/16 gap in between. I use lightweight spackle to fill the gaps and let it dry for a day. After removing the tape I sand, scribe and whatever it takes to make joint invisible. When I am done I take the building outside and lightly spray with white paint. I don't know if it is necessary but I let it dry for 24 hours. Then I paint the building with off white making sure I get it into all mortar lines. After I take different off white and /or light gray and randomly paint some areas. And again I let it sit for 24 hours. When I come back I use dark gray, brick, red, orange color craft paints and dry brush the brick in the order I have listed. Then I do the stones as I have described earlier, areas around windows and whatever is left. When all is done I apply my oil wash.

The brick can be colored using a sponge. I haven't tried it myself. I personally feel that dry brushing gives me more control.

I use my 2004 digital SLR to take my pictures. A sheet of white mat board is my background. I place one end against the wall and other on the floor then push the center to make curved V. I use two lights. One of them is 300W. The other is 200W. I place them at about 1 ft away from each corner of mat board facing towards and down the model. I am sure Wattage and light placement is wrong from pro photography point. I know I am supposed to use diffusers and perhaps third light but most of the time I get acceptable result and that is enough for me. The only time I use third light is when I am taking pictures of larger diorama and I use it to light the back. One of these days I may read a book about proper lighting technique...

Vilius

[tom.boyd.125]

Vilius,
THANK YOU for sharing your painting and building methods that you used for this build. I will print it out and save it in my work bench note binder.
Did not know you used an oil wash instead of the common achohol and india ink, A/I wash. Dove Grey is sold in the craft stores here . Let me know if you need any.
Tom

[S&S RR]

Vilius
Great build and thread! Thanks for sharing your techniques with us - looks great.

[MAP]

Vilius,
Thanks for the painting tips and great explanation on how you do it.  Looking forward to more progress.

[Vilius]

Guys,

Thank you for stopping by. I am going to take a short break. It is summer time after all.

Vilius

[postalkarl]

Hi Vilius:

Looks just wonderful. Great paint and choice of colors.

Karl

[UP Fan]

Great work!  The whole building has a perfect grunge look to it.  Nice weathering.

[Vilius]

Thank you Karl and Bob.

After vacation and taking time off due to some tragic event I am building models again. Here is where I am at.

Vilius

[Mike Engler]

Vilius, this build is coming along very well. Not an easy project but you have been skillful as well as artful.
One of the big challenges working with a structure such as this is making the corners look like they match, and you have done a great job on yours. I'll follow along as you do the detailing.

[Vilius]

Thank you, Mike. I agree. The corners are perhaps most challenging part of any plaster kit.

Vilius

[Mark Dalrymple]

Looking tremendous, Vilius!

Cheers, Mark.

[Vilius]

Thank you, Mark.

[tom.boyd.125]

Vilius,
Great looking build ! What a difference with the rafters, roofing and dormers added on. 
Tom