FSM Seafood Emporium Diorama

[postalkarl]

Hi Kim:


Really looks great. Love you colors and weathering. When you say teak I will assume you are using a stain??? If so what is it as I really like the color. Or do the craft paint people make a colored called Teak. Wouldn't surprise me. Let me know OK. Keep the gret photos coming OK.

Karl

[Kimkatkim]

Hi Kim:


Really looks great. Love you colors and weathering. When you say teak I will assume you are using a stain??? If so what is it as I really like the color. Or do the craft paint people make a colored called Teak. Wouldn't surprise me. Let me know OK. Keep the gret photos coming OK.

Karl

Hi Karl -

Glad you like my color scheme. I am using Dr. Bens "Nautical Teak" stain. It's a great color. I'm probably going to use it again. Probably with another color of course.

Right now I'm working on the loading dock on the far right of the main structure. My favorite type of modeling - board by board which allows for the tiniest of details. I should be done with it soon and I'll post pics of it then.

Kimberly 

[cuse]

Fantastic. One of my favorite kits done brilliantly. I love the unexpected color. Really well done!


John

[MASIGMON]

Kimberly,  I have some of Dr. Bens stains & never used them.  I guess I have been waiting to see them applied as you have.  If I understand you right on the main building you apply Aged Driftwood Then A & I then some random Pine & then Teakwood & Use a grey (Fos Scale method) for peal paint.  You had said the Teak was thin. The teak is the redish faded color (right).  How did you thin the teak or do you thin all of the Dr Bens stains.

Your process & realist color finish looks very right on for a faded seaside building. 

Look forward to more photo's

Mike sigmon
Jacksonville, FL   

[postalkarl]

HI Kim:

Thank for the info on the stain. I will have to check into it. Can't wait for more pics.

Karl

[MASIGMON]

 Kim, I know this build is for the FSM Seafood Emporium Diorama hower would you be kind enought to answer a question about your Mckenzie build.  Sometimes the color photo does not come out true when looking at it on line.  Could you please share with me & any interested forum members the Brand name & color brake down of the painting process that you used on the Mckenzie build.  If you used DR Bens stains let me know if you require thinning any prior to applying to the structure.  What are you doing for color on the windows & doors.  (spray or brush)

Thank you

Mike Sigmon
   

[Kimkatkim]

Kim, I know this build is for the FSM Seafood Emporium Diorama hower would you be kind enought to answer a question about your Mckenzie build.  Sometimes the color photo does not come out true when looking at it on line.  Could you please share with me & any interested forum members the Brand name & color brake down of the painting process that you used on the Mckenzie build.  If you used DR Bens stains let me know if you require thinning any prior to applying to the structure.  What are you doing for color on the windows & doors.  (spray or brush)

Thank you

Mike Sigmon

Hi Mike -

On my Mackenzie Milling build I used Dr. Bens stains as well. No thinning is necessary. I use them full strength, except for when I use Durty Black as my substitute for A & I. I thin it about 5 -1.
The colors I used on Mackenzie: First - and this is very important - staining all the wood first with Driftwood! I cannot emphasize what a difference this makes in the depth the colors take with a driftwood base.  I used Dr. Bens Aged Driftwood. The main color is Rustic Barn Red. After aging with A & I, I go back and highlight random areas by stippling the red shade with a very small brush as if it were peeling away. It is a tedious process, but the results are worth the extra work. There is a subtlety of layering colors that really works on the eye to help fool the eye into thinking it is looking at a full size structure. Doug Foscale talks about this a lot in his work. Layer, layer. layer. It works. I also use the sponge stipple technique to further the idea of peeling paint, using a gray color. Be light-handed with this - you can go overboard easily. Again, it's almost a subliminal thing you are trying to get to fool the eye. It's the small things that make a difference.
On the doors and windows I followed George's instructions almost to the letter. His mix of colors works great! Get all the Dr. Bens natural wood shades - Oak, Pine & maple. They are a great replacement for Floquil stains, which are no longer available. I used them all. Again, I used driftwood as my base. And everything gets A & I!
OK, that's my class for tonight. 
Hope this helps - I'm happy to answer any other questions you might have.

Kimberly