FOS Forley & Co. Lithographers

Started by ACL1504, August 05, 2016, 06:14:48 PM

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ACL1504

On Doug's model he chose to use Lehigh Valley Cornell Red with Black windows. I like the Cornell
Red look but definitely not the black for the windows, doors and trim.




He uses a light gray for the bottom portion of the walls. I'll go with the Cornell Red for the walls and SP Lettering Gray for the lower wall portions. I'll decide on the windows, doors and trim color later. Probably some form or gray of off white.

I was to lazy to look for my regular Floquil Cornell Red so I'll use the Floquil Polly Scale LV Cornell Red.

"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

deemery

You might want to add a bit of white to that Cornell Red, so it doesn't look too overwhelmingly bright.  (I had that problem with a building, I painted it bright red and it came out toy-like.)


dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

ACL1504

Quote from: deemery on August 08, 2016, 07:28:02 PM
You might want to add a bit of white to that Cornell Red, so it doesn't look too overwhelmingly bright.  (I had that problem with a building, I painted it bright red and it came out toy-like.)


dave


Dave,

I always test the color on some scrap strip wood prior to applying the color to the model wall. Adding white will make the red more of a pink. I don't want pink. The best way to tone down the red is to thin the paint as it is applied followed when dry with a healthy dose of A&I.

I'll post the results of the test piece when done.

Tom ;D
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

Vilius

I have come across two other opinions in the past on how to tone down the colors. James Lincoln in one of the podcasts once said to add color from the opposite side of the color wheel. Dave Frary in 200+ or 300+ tips book says to add earth color. I haven't tried any of these tips so use them at your own risk  ;D

Vilius

ACL1504

I separated the main wall into two pieces. I used option C as I mentioned earlier.




After I separated the walls, I carefully sanded the edges of the cut and also the laser cut sides. The laser cuts at a slight angle and I've found that I get a better/tight fit for the corner trim if the sides are flat.




Continued in a few.
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

ACL1504


I started adding the bracing to the back of the walls.

I mentioned also I would report back on the LV Cornell Red. Not a color I'll be using. The test pieces below are proof. The sample on the left is out of the bottle and thinned with water. The sample on the right is the Cornell Red applied over a coat of light A&I.


I don't like either shade of the red. Back to the color chart!




The bracing is still on going. I braced the bottom of the walls and where the interior wall goes, a small section of the brace needed to be removed so the wall would fit.





You can see I cut into the back of the wall just a little. No biggie!
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

CVSNE

Will be following this along - I've never built one of Doug's kits but I have several on the way - including one that's very similar to this one (Ravenwood Leather).

Thinning red paint will lesson the opacity but not really alter the tone. Adding white produces pink.
One way I've found to avoid ending up with pink is to add tan or earth tone paint instead of white.

Marty
Marty McGuirk
Manassas, VA

postalkarl

Hi Tom:

Looking good so far. I'll try to post mine today.

Karl

postalkarl

Hi Tom:

Here's mine a J. Richbell Restaurant Supply Co. Hope You like it.

Karl

deemery

I consulted with my wife (formally trained artist.)  She says "add a very tiny amount of green to the red to tone it down."  I think that's the 'complementary color on the Color Wheel' solution.


dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

Zephyrus52246

I built this one a long time ago.  Changed it up a bit and added an addition.  It covers a "hole" in the backdrop, which is used to turn trains.  Can't wait to see what you do with the kit.


Jeff

postalkarl

Hi Jeff:

Wow very cool. I saw it when you posted it before. Nice color combo to. Thanks for sharing.

karl

ACL1504

Quote from: CVSNE on August 10, 2016, 09:33:07 AM
Will be following this along - I've never built one of Doug's kits but I have several on the way - including one that's very similar to this one (Ravenwood Leather).

Thinning red paint will lesson the opacity but not really alter the tone. Adding white produces pink.
One way I've found to avoid ending up with pink is to add tan or earth tone paint instead of white.

Marty


Marty,

Thanks for stopping by and for the input. I think I'm gong to another color. I'm thinking of Zinc Chromate for the walls and a gray for the windows and doors.

Tom ;D
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

Dave K.

Enjoying your thread as always, Tom. Love Doug's background kits. Marty, here's my Ravenwood. It's either Zinc Chromate or Rock Island Maroon, can't recall.

ACL1504

Quote from: postalkarl on August 10, 2016, 05:01:33 PM
Hi Tom:

Here's mine a J. Richbell Restaurant Supply Co. Hope You like it.

Karl


Karl,

Thanks for posting your picture of the build. I remember seeing it on the other forum but couldn't find it. This one has been added to my KS file.

Tom ;D
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

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