Build Challenge 2016: Ewart & Lake by Stella Scale Models

[MAP]

Thanks Jim.

Ok, some progress has been made! I glued in a piece of strip wood at the peak of the side walls to keep them square to each other and to give me some place to glue the roof cardstock.  Oh, I also painted the lower, inside wall sections because I may leave a door or 2 open, so seeing un-pained wood through the doors was not appealing.  So as the glue & paint dried I started working on the two decks.  Both start out with laser cut cardstock which need some trim applied.  The photo shows one done and the other "under the clamp".  Then I started cutting the floor boards that were previously stained/powdered to size and glued them in.  I first roughed up the outer edges to give them a worn look.  This exposed some of the untreated strip wood, so I gave the deck another wash of Hunterline stain.

[MAP]

Some progress has (finally) been made.  Some of this work was done a few days ago and I'm just now getting around to posting.  So, the first picture shows one of the little rooms I'm adding to the interior of the building so that I can leave a door or 2 open and show off some wares that the store sells.  The next is the large cardboard roofing piece covered in double sided tape, which I'll add to the other roofing cardboard, and then a shot of me cutting the tarpaper roofing into 3' strips.  The final is some extra bracing I'm adding to help support and add gluing area for the cardstock roofing.

[Powersteamguy1790]

The build looks great Mark.

Stay cool and run steam........

[Polux]

Nice work


PD:Guys..... after watching some threads, you all have some really intereting tools to work....

[MAP]

Thanks for the comments Bob & Pol.lux.
Some more progress on the kit.  First up is one of the roofs for the 2 overhangs that are on the building.  I chose to use Bar Mills shingles instead of more of the tarpaper material that came with the kit just to break things up.  I did some dry brushing with white paint (right side of roof) to give it some aging.  The next photo is me dry-fitting the two main roofs on the kit to see how they look, and the last one is the main room being held in place with rubber bands (no clamps this time).

[ACL1504]

Looking very good Mark. I like the tar paper roof, well done.

Tom

[MAP]

Thanks for the feedback Tom!  I always wonder if I'm calling the roofing material by its correct name.  I always thought that "tar" paper was the underlayment for the shingles that would go on top.  Is it a common roofing material as the final top layer?  Any-hoo, here are some updates.  The doors are made up of some kind of laser board material.  After I painted both sides it still decided to warp just a bit, so I glued a few pieces of the same material to the back of each door.  It helped.  A couple of pics of the door in it's warp mode, and my trusty clamps straightening it out.  Next up are a couple of pics of the doors mounted on the building.  They're all sliding doors.

[S&S RR]

Mark


The build is really looking nice.

[postalkarl]

Hi Mark:

Looks good so far. Like your colors. Do the sliding freight doors get more detail on them?

Karl

[RWL]

Mark,

You are doing a very nice job on your build, both in construction and coloring. I particularly like the planking and exterior, the coloring is great. To answer your question posed to Tom and to clarify your use of the term tar paper, you are correct that "Tar" paper is used as an underlayment for a shingle application and was also used as a top covering. As a finish covering it did not last as long exposed to the elements, because it was no more than Kraft paper impregnated with tar. Tar paper is graded by weight, 15# and 30#, which denotes the amount of weight added to the structure for every 100 sq. ft. of roof surface. There is a third grade of paper, 90# that isn't made from tar but asphaltum (it is still known as tar paper) and is covered with granules just as a shingle would be covered. All three grades were called felt and cut to 36 inches in width, but they differed in lengths, I believe the 15# and 30# were cut to 100 ft. and the 90# at 50 ft., at least that is what my back remembers.

The 15# and 30# came with lines stenciled at 6, 12, 18, 24, and 30 inches running the length to assist in alignment across a run of roof. The pitch of the roof drove the amount of face exposure you allowed for the next run. A shallow roof (4 in 12 pitch) you would allow a 18 or 24 inch exposure depending upon how much water was flowing over the roof, a steeper roof (12 in 12 pitch) 30 inches was allowable. For the time frame that most everyone on this forum is modeling, 90# felt was a luxury. But there are some rich LPs on some of these layouts and dioramas.

For flat roofing most (if the owner could afford it) paper application was covered with slag as a UV protection for the paper. The roof was made up of 5 to 7 plies of paper with hot tar mopped on each layer and the next roll aligned with the stenciled lines. The top layer was mopped with tar and slag thrown and swept across the surface, except at the edges. The paper there was lapped up the inside of the coping and either slipped under the flashing and sealed, or bulled into the brick.

Well that is more than you asked for, but I was on a roll, get it? Again, nice job on your build and to all those building.

Bob

[Vilius]

Mark,

Looks very good.

In reference to photo #57. I thought you had a clamp for any and every case 

Vilius

[MAP]

John/Bob/Karl/Vilius, Thanks for stopping by and commenting on the build!  This challenge has re-charged my train batteries and now I'm back on some benchwork/track stuff lately. 
Karl, the freight doors didn't come with any extra "stuff", but I did add some door handles (grab irons) that I had from who knows where.  Hopefully the photo shows the one on the door. 
Bob, thanks for the tutorial on tar paper!!  More info is better than less, especially when you're on a roll 
Vilius, clamps come in many variations and disquises.  I have a coffee can full of rubber bands of all sizes, and that piece of wood on the roof has been used (along with its mate) on many of my builds.  The rubber bands are "clamping" the wood to the roof. 

[ACL1504]

Mark,

Sorry I didn't see your post until this morning. Bob correctly answered your question and did a better job on the answer.  I think as modelers, we seem to always refer to the "rolled roofing" material as tar paper.

The #15 and #30 felt is more common here in the South and was a quick and easy way to get the building dried in. When I built my 20 X 50 train room I used #30 felt/tar paper and used asphalt shingles on top of felt paper.

Tom

[Powersteamguy1790]

Nice work Mark.

Stay cool and run steam........

[MAP]

Tom, 20' x 50' train room??!!!  Holy cow!  That is nice! Yes, I believe that the term tar paper is a term my dad used to use all the time, so I just picked up on that and it stuck.  Rolled roofing....something I'll need to add to my vocabulary.  Ok, a couple of progress shots.  the first is the large roof over one of the docks.  The second is the smaller roof glued in place, held by what else......clamps!