FOS Carter Supply

Started by fsmcollector67, June 22, 2017, 01:55:11 PM

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deemery

Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

fsmcollector67

Bob, Dave,
Thanks for the comments....Bob my pleasure, if it inspires someone else to try it, than that was worth my effort..
Loren...
9 Fingers Loren.....
"Watch out for that #11 Blade"

Janbouli

Looks so real , splendid job Loren.
I love photo's, don't we all.

fsmcollector67

Janbouli,
Thanks for the comment...
Loren..
9 Fingers Loren.....
"Watch out for that #11 Blade"

engine909

Among the best I have seen. I look forward to the rest of the built.
ed

fsmcollector67

Ed,
Thanks for the comment...
Loren...
9 Fingers Loren.....
"Watch out for that #11 Blade"

fsmcollector67

The walls are all put together. The oil sign was done as a matte medium transfer, came out pretty good. now onto the roofs. Hopefully Doug F would approve.....
Loren...
9 Fingers Loren.....
"Watch out for that #11 Blade"

PaulS

Quote from: fsmcollector67 on June 26, 2017, 09:10:01 AM
The walls are all put together. The oil sign was done as a matte medium transfer, came out pretty good. now onto the roofs. Hopefully Doug F would approve.....
Loren...
Looks very nice Loren, but we expected nothing less !!
So please educate me ...  Not sure what you mean by a "matte medium transfer" ?   Can you explain the process a bit further as the sign looks tremendous (aged and faded beautifully).
Thanks,
--Paul
Modeling the Atlantic & White Mtn Railway

PRR Modeler

Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
Freelanced PRR Bellevue Subdivision

jimmillho

Wonderful, just Wonderful.

Great Job, Loren.

Jim

fsmcollector67

#25
So please educate me ...  Not sure what you mean by a "matte medium transfer" ?   Can you explain the process a bit further as the sign looks tremendous (aged and faded beautifully).
Thanks,
--Paul

Paul, here goes. copy, or print any image in the mirror. (when you look at it, it reads backwards) Than take Matte Medium (Golden's is what I use) You apply the matte medium to the printed surface, not too thick, and not too thin. Than let that soak into the paper for a couple minutes, until paper seems like it is soaked, and flimsy. lay the image face down onto the surface. The surface should be painted, even white. I have never tried on bare wood, but it might work. Next take a dull edged object (old medicine bottle cap, handle end of x-acto knife, etc..) and begin to burnish from the center of image outward. some medium might squeeze out, wipe it away with tissue. continue to burnish until you see the color start to come through, or the paper darkens up. this should be around 3-4 minutes. let it sit for a couple of minutes, than peel a corner up. if you see the ink still on the paper, you can put a little medium under that area, and burnish again. if it stuck good, you should be tearing only about half of the paper thickness up. the remainder will be on the image still. get most of the thicker paper off with tweezers. than with a cotton swab, or soft brush dipped in water, gently rub the remaining paper off of the image. DO NOT put too much pressure on the image, as it too will rub off. when it is fairly dry, you can also rub a finger across it, this will also remove some paper. This is all about trial, and error. I have about a 70% rate on it working good. The sign on Carter supply was easy, because I wanted it messed up, perfect can be a little harder to achieve....
9 Fingers Loren.....
"Watch out for that #11 Blade"

fsmcollector67

Jim, Curt,
Thanks for the comments...
Loren...
9 Fingers Loren.....
"Watch out for that #11 Blade"

Zephyrus52246

Wow. The cracked and peeling pain looks wonderful.  Thanks for the transfer technique, makes a great faded sign.

Jeff

fsmcollector67

Jeff,
Thanks for the comment, The Matte Medium method works well when "IT" wants to.
Loren...
9 Fingers Loren.....
"Watch out for that #11 Blade"

PaulS

Quote from: fsmcollector67 on June 26, 2017, 01:36:17 PM
So please educate me ...  Not sure what you mean by a "matte medium transfer" ?   Can you explain the process a bit further as the sign looks tremendous (aged and faded beautifully).
Thanks,
--Paul

Paul, here goes. copy, or print any image in the mirror. (when you look at it, it reads backwards) Than take Matte Medium (Golden's is what I use) You apply the matte medium to the printed surface, not too thick, and not too thin. Than let that soak into the paper for a couple minutes, until paper seems like it is soaked, and flimsy. lay the image face down onto the surface. The surface should be painted, even white. I have never tried on bare wood, but it might work. Next take a dull edged object (old medicine bottle cap, handle end of x-acto knife, etc..) and begin to burnish from the center of image outward. some medium might squeeze out, wipe it away with tissue. continue to burnish until you see the color start to come through, or the paper darkens up. this should be around 3-4 minutes. let it sit for a couple of minutes, than peel a corner up. if you see the ink still on the paper, you can put a little medium under that area, and burnish again. if it stuck good, you should be tearing only about half of the paper thickness up. the remainder will be on the image still. get most of the thicker paper off with tweezers. than with a cotton swab, or soft brush dipped in water, gently rub the remaining paper off of the image. DO NOT put too much pressure on the image, as it too will rub off. when it is fairly dry, you can also rub a finger across it, this will also remove some paper. This is all about trial, and error. I have about a 70% rate on it working good. The sign on Carter supply was easy, because I wanted it messed up, perfect can be a little harder to achieve....


Loren,
Thanks very much for the in depth step-by-step on this transfer process.  I will have to give it a try at some point ...
Thanks again for taking the time to share this with all,
Best,
--Paul
Modeling the Atlantic & White Mtn Railway

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